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S3 Oil Pump Change (with pics)

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by danger S3, Jul 26, 2012.

  1. danger S3

    danger S3 Member

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    ok, so a while back i did a guide for removing/refitting the sump and also cleaning the pickup. this can be found S3 Sump Removal and Refit (with pics)

    so to change the oil pump i did whats in the sump removal part of the thread then started to set about the oil pump.

    to start with i removed the pickup which contained these parts (not the bolt btw). there was a bit of silicone gasket, ill put that down to using a bit too much sealant last time i refitted the sump. and the bits of plastic i think are from the broken end of the breather hoses bit that goes into the front of the engine :sorry: very glad to get them out of there

    all of the screws are 5mm allen key heads and i used a 160mm long 5mm allen key on a 3/8" socket. just like this one Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay Laser part number: 2870. They are also hex heads so a 10mm socket on the oil pump bolts as if they are a little tight they can round using a 5mm allen key (thanks for the suggestion of the 10mm socket <tuffty/>)

    [​IMG]

    Then i removed the baffle which is held on by one screw (screw also helps hold the pump on) there are 3 screws holding the pump on.

    [​IMG]

    once the baffles off u get a good look up into the engine

    [​IMG]

    and also you can see the underside of the engine and the old oil pump without pickup

    [​IMG]

    there are another 2 screws and once they are undone you can get into removing it, below you can see there is a spring loaded tensioner. i removed it by having the oil pump hanging down and holding the tensioner back and slipping it off the sprocket. ElsaWin says you should remove the sprocket to get it off but i thought this was easier.

    if you do choose to take the sprocket off the torque for re attaching it is 22Nm.

    [​IMG]

    here are a couple of pics of the old oil pump next to the new one, quite a difference in colour

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    now for fitting the new oil pump, i noticed that the old oil pump had left one of its plastic dowels in the block so i removed that and used the 2 that came already in the new pump.

    I also took some new oil and put it through the new oil pump and make sure it had been run through and spinned lots to get it all lubed then filled it and fitted it

    installing is just a reverse of the removal really. wee bit fiddly to get it back on the chain but it wasn't too bad.

    [​IMG]

    here is a pic of the new oil pump in but not torqued up yet. also the baffle isn't on yet, it needs to be on before the baffle screws tightened obviously :icon_thumright:

    the torque settings to put the oil pump onto the block is 16Nm

    [​IMG]

    the last pic here is of the oil pump fully fitted and torqued up with the new pickup attached.

    [​IMG]

    after that i just cleaned up the mating surfaces with some alcohol and re attached the sump in the previous guide S3 Sump Removal and Refit (with pics)


    to recap the torque settings:

    Chain sprocket to oil pump shaft - 22Nm
    Oil pump to cylinder block - 16Nm

    tools needed:

    Hex Bit 5mm x 160mm Ball End 3/8"D Laser 2870 | eBay - Laser part number: 2870

    That's all folk, if there is anything I've forgotten (there probably will be) please feel free to jump in :beerchug:

    oh and the last point, got for a drive :racer:
     
    #1 danger S3, Jul 26, 2012
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2012
    SteveBAM and JUS3IN like this.
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  3. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    excellent guide! well done mate.
     
  4. s3gazz

    s3gazz Well-Known Member

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    great help mate as ill be doining mine soon
     
  5. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
    Staff Member Moderator Audi S3

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    I would use a 10mm socket on the oil pump bolts personally as if they are a little tight they can round using a 5mm allen key..

    I normally remove the sprocket but I do use an impact gun to wind it off then torque it back on with a torque wrench..

    <tuffty/>
     
  6. v5 tt

    v5 tt Member

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    Excellent write up :beerchug:
     
  7. slowcoach3

    slowcoach3 Active Member

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    Always like your write-ups, they're so easy to follow.....Don't suppose you fancy doing one for removal/refit of the head do you????!!!!
     
  8. danger S3

    danger S3 Member

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    Cheers guys, glad you like it.

    Tuffty i edited my post to add in your 10mm socket suggestion :thumbsup:

    slowcoach3 i hope i never have todo a guide for the head but if i do i will sort it. just like i hope i never have to do anything with my turbo. but I'm ready to man up if i have to :weight_lift2:
     
  9. s3gazz

    s3gazz Well-Known Member

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    well as iv started my build i was at this stage of removing the oil pump and undid it all as said above but could not get the chain off so might have to take the tensioner off or the oil pump cog itself
     
  10. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
    Staff Member Moderator Audi S3

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    Remove the cog mate... I normally use an impact gun to remove it but as long as you can lock or prevent the crank from turning while you so it then it will come undone

    <tuffty/>
     
  11. s3gazz

    s3gazz Well-Known Member

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    Thanks mate ye I noticed that as I turned the crank to get piston 1 an 4 top dead flush then went to undo it moved so need to some how stop it from moving too fidly taking chain off ha
     
  12. vfr800

    vfr800 Active Member

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    Nice write up.

    Why did you change the oil pump? Had it failed or were you doing preventative maintenance?

    Is it the sort of thing everyone should think about changing (on high mileage engines) or only if they have a problem?

    Liam
     
  13. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    if you ever have the sump off for any reason, i see that as a perfect excuse to fit a new one. preventative maintenence
     
  14. danger S3

    danger S3 Member

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    Thanks.

    i changed it as a preventative measure, basically my thinking was if the oil pickups been partially blocked for dunno how many miles then the oil pump wouldn't have had the same lubrication it would like so it might be getting worn.

    so i changed it. looking at the old one that came out it actually seemed in reasonable nick but you know its just a piece of mind thing really. I'm still glad i did it.

    Ali
     
  15. vfr800

    vfr800 Active Member

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    I finally changed my pickup and oil pump yesterday. It was a heck of a messy job, loads of oil kept dripping out of the engine onto me.

    My pickup pipe was hardly blocked at all. Oh well, i know its all good now and should all be good for another 100k+.

    To change the pump I pushed the tensioner back, it was easy enough.

    I'm hoping I put the sealant on well enough that it stays all sealed.

    Thanks again for the write up. Super helpful.

    Liam
     
  16. The Doctor

    The Doctor Well-Known Member

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    Well done Liam, good to have that peace of mind though. My pick-up was also pretty clean when I dropped my sump last year, but I'm still glad I checked it.
     
  17. JUS3IN

    JUS3IN polishing a silver turd

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    great write up mate, those 2 sump bolts in the gearbox are a right sod! my pickup was full of crud no wonder i had a rattly top end, bits off instant gasket and nearly all the holes blocked!
     

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