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S3 Buying advice need urgently

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by B1GW1L, Sep 2, 2012.

  1. B1GW1L
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    B1GW1L Member

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    [Sep 2, 2012]
    Hey Guys im new to audi's being a subaru driver.

    Im looking at px my current scooby for a 03 S3 Bam the milage on the car is 120K and im concerend that this is particuarly high.

    Can anyone advise me for things to look out for and wether i should just stick well clear of it.

    Car has a full service history

    Thanks for your input in advance.

    Regards

    Will Maxted
    #1
  2. Ads

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    [Sep 21, 2014]

  3. The Doctor
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    The Doctor Well-Known Member

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    [Sep 2, 2012]
    Hi Will, first of all, 120k is not huge mileage for these engines if they have been maintained correctly. Take a look at the stickies, there is a good guide in there. Key things to look out for:

    Servicing - the S3 can have the Audi "Long Life" service intervals (20k miles/2yrs I believe, with specific "Long Life" oil), but it's better to see regular 12k/1yr stamps in the book. Don't necessarily think that Dealerships are better - in my experience (and others on here) you actually get better service from a reputable independent VAG specialist. Make sure the Haldex oil has been changed every 20k and filter every 40k. Check cambelt done at around 65k or 5 yrs.

    Haldex - make sure the car is running 4WD. It's "on demand" 4WD on these cars, not permanent. Pulling the handbrake up one notch will dis-able the Haldex, leaving FWD only. You can really notice the difference, even in the dry under medium-hard acceleration, so try it.

    Rear diff - make sure it doesn't whine and that on full lock the rear wheels do not bind at all. Some people have reported problems with this.

    Door sensors -can play up so the car thinks the door's open when it's closed. If so this will cause the interior light to stay on when shut, and the alarm will not activate. Check it. Will need replacing if faulty.

    Alarm - batteries in the alarm system eventually die. When turning the car off you may hear 3 beeps coming from the boot area if they're dead. Easy fix though.

    Suspension - check for clonking from front (top mounts) and if you can, get under the rear and check the rear springs are not cracked at the bottom of the coils (common failure around this mileage).

    Windows - check they go all the way down & up again. The runners can fail over time. Easy enough to fix though.

    Door blades - make sure they're securely attached & flush with the doors. Over time the internal components start to separate. Can be fixed though.

    Obviously give the car a good inspection & test drive before parting with your cash!

    Generally, these are great cars, very reliable with good build quality and performance. The points above are just a list of common things that I can think of. Best of all, this forum is fantastic with lots of free advice and expertise on hand. I've had my '03 BAM for 3 years now and I have to say it's been fantastic. I've used this forum countless times to solve problems, make some modifications and discuss ideas.

    Do you have details of the ad? Might be able to offer more advice if you can post the ad and some pics of the car.
    #2
  4. brasiliangringo
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    brasiliangringo Member

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    [Sep 2, 2012]
    Get yourself at least the shareware version of VAG Com (largest VAG aftermarket diagnostic software) from ebay with a cheapo lead and scan it for faults. I had a 1.8T (albeit it the 150bhp version of this engine so less stressed) with 188k making spec boost and perfect MAF reading @ 120 G/S (80% of its rated output) and generally opinion suggests these engines are quite reliable.
    #3
  5. Colly
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    Colly The Tangerine Machine

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    [Sep 2, 2012]
    I didnt know this learn summit new everyday
    #4
  6. voorhees
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    voorhees Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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  7. sportquattro
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    sportquattro Active Member

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    120,000 is nothing to worry about on these engines provided they have had regular servicing and oil changes, Oil reallly is the key to logevity, the long life service regime is too long a gap IMHO so stick to 10,000 mile intervals, and many change oil mid way as well. Engines are generally pretty bomb proof many on here have 200,000 milers and still going strong. Build quality is high and apart from a few comon issues you'll be buying a great car that will feel much more solid than the Scooby. Tuning potential high and most go for remap, Badger 5 TIP and Forge 007P as a starting point.
    #6
  8. 69rush69
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    69rush69 New Member

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2012
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  9. B1GW1L
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    B1GW1L Member

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    Guys you've all been an amazing help going to have a look at it tonight and will make a decsion based on drive and inspection

    Many thanks for your help and ill keep you up dated on it.
    #8
  10. The Doctor
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    The Doctor Well-Known Member

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    Yes, let us know how you get on. Re coil packs, there was a recent Audi recall to replace all coil packs on these engines free of charge (no mileage/age limit), so take it in and get it done if it's not been done already.
    #9
  11. Colly
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    Colly The Tangerine Machine

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    do you know what models/years it affects?
    #10
  12. Big_jim
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    Big_jim Member

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    Same here..

    Does it do any damage?
    #11
  13. superkarl
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    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    ALL the 1.8t engines.
    #12
  14. superkarl
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    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    what do any damage? being FWD, no, how could it.
    #13
  15. Colly
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    Colly The Tangerine Machine

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    ill ring audi with my chassis code is that all i need?
    #14
  16. superkarl
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    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    yeh should be all you need. i went in and it was booked for the following week straight away.
    #15
  17. Colly
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    Colly The Tangerine Machine

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    sweet thanks
    #16
  18. The Doctor
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    The Doctor Well-Known Member

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    Have a search on here for "Coil Pack Recall" and you'll find the recall number. Just quote that and give them your chassis number. They'll replace all 4 FOC.
    #17
  19. B1GW1L
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    B1GW1L Member

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    [Sep 3, 2012]
    Well Guys I did the deed and bought the S3 trading in my Scooby for a nifty bag of sand. Car runs very well and I’m very satisfied. Was a slight ticking sound from the driver’s side engine bay but doing some digging most people seem to think that this is just the injectors.

    I’m interested in getting it revo mapped. Is it worth it? Would be good to know before I go and book it in for Thursday.

    last service was at 120K was a full service car has only done 4 k since Sept last year should I get a intermittent service done?

    The only other things I have noticed that from cold seems like it might be a little blowy and after driving there’s a lot of heat from the driver’s side (underneath the car)

    Sorry if these are stupid questions but being the first Audi I’ve owned I’m completely clueless.

    Thanks again guys will pop up some picks once I’ve given it a clean
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2012
    #18
  20. The Doctor
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    The Doctor Well-Known Member

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    [Sep 4, 2012]
    Ticking on driver's side is normal. Can't remember exactly what it is (some sort of filter I think...? Someone help me out here please!) - but it's absolutely fine. You'll find it's coming form near the washer bottle/coolant reservoir area.

    You'll find there is a fair amount of heat coming from the car after a run, sounds normal to me from what you've said.

    For peace of mind I'd probable give it a service just so you know it's done properly. Has the Haldex oil & filter been replaced recently? If not, do that too - it's straight forward to do once you have the tool (long wrench with socket on the end). You may even find someone on here local to you who can lend it to you. Where are you based?

    Regarding re-map, that's definitely a good plan if you have the cash. Lots of different tuning companies. Mine was done by APS of Brackley before I bought it.

    Only other thing I thought of - the temp gauge should run at a constant 90 deg C. If not, it'll be either your temp sender or the thermostat. Both relatively easy to fix.

    Looking forward to the pics.
    #19

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