S3 4 wheel Alignment help

S90GAV

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after going some where today to get it done, they decided to tell me they didnt have to correct information for the camber on a S3 :banghead:. Was talking to my girlfriends dad and his mate does it so i want too goto him with the figures that most recommened for a S3 that lowered.

so if anyone know the best camber and toe setup for a S3 id be very greatfull if you put them up. Below is a printout of how my car is currently set up.

s3alignment.jpg
 
I had a similar issue on Saturday when I had mine done, the machine doesn't seem to think front camber is adjustable on an S3 when it is. I undid the ball joint nuts and pulled them right out then asked for the camber to be matched either side by adjusting through the subframe and pulling in the ball joints as required, then go for zero toe.

Your print out looks like the same machine mine went on.... I am letting my setup settle for a few weeks then they have asked me to return where they will tweak it in for free.

Good luck :)

<tuffty/>
 
i told them that the front camber was adjustable from the ball joint as the wishbones have slots in them.... they said they'd tryed it on an other s3 and it wouldnt move.
 
Yeah, right!!!

Granted the isn't loads of adjustment but there is enough to get both sides equal including loosening the subframe and moving that. Any adjustment to the camber is likely to throw the toe out again though.
 
if because the computer doesn`t tell them how to adjust it, glen gave me a set of good settings i`ll try and dig them out today or tomorrow. Looks like the same system I had mine done on but I ended up doing it myself using their equipment.

take it you havn`t got the adjustable rear arms then ????
 
the front adjusts quite alot on the front camber think if you pull the hub out as far as it goes then you should see about -1.3 to -1.5 front camber which is good if you want your car set up for fast road use then have the tracking set up parrall ie 0-0, and the back end looks to have far to much negative camber you want that at about -0.5 i dont think rear tracking is adjustable but that should come back in with the camber adjustment,
think there is a sticky up the top to with set up tips
 
yer the adjustable tie bars are fitted. they just didnt know the settings they had to be at... wont be going back to them
 
well if there doing the alignment id have hoped they were competent enough to no that having loads more rear camber to front camber isnt correct, dont understand these garages that do these things basic knowledge isnt that hard,
 
so loosen the ball joints from the wishbone and pull them out as far as they go and tighten back up and set the rear camber to -0.5 and then get the toe front and rear re done correct?
 
yeah sounds about right to me
 
the front track rods will need alot of adjustment once you have pulled the hub out though so probably best you do it at the same time as the alingment
 
Ess will be along shortly - expert in these matters.

G

just sorted it with him over PM ;)


i pm'd him before i started this thread, so while i was waiting for a replt from him i decided to see what others had too say
 
so if anyone know the best camber and toe setup for a S3 id be very greatfull if you put them up.


Might help, it's from my sticky at the top of the S3 forum.

The camber up front needs tweaking too. The best you can get without ball joint modification is -1.3° per side. In order to get that, you need to ensure that the subframe is exactly in the middle. Ball joint mods can give you about another -0.5°, but some say that this increases the track rod end consumption rate.


Back end: There's little adjustment and little benefit to be had in playing around with the rear toe settings. Keep them standard. However, if you've lowered the car, or even if you just want more stability, then you'll need rear adjustable tie-arms. Various options, various prices.

A drop of about 30mm in height will increase rear camber to about -2.0°. With that much, the car squirms under power and feels twitchy. Not what you want if you've just spent £££ on your suspension. Rear tie-arms will let you them camber to acceptable levels. Somewhere in the region of -0.5° gives the right balance of stability and still allows for a little power oversteer.
 
whats the best way to check if it the sub frame is bang in the middle?
 

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