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Discussion in 'RS3 Forum (8P Chassis)' started by T-800, May 2, 2014.
Thought I'd give these a try as an alternative to the wooden block i use when jacking up the RS3.
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Interesting... Will you have those on Tuesday, and the 'cable' and laptop? A lesson will very much be appreciated.
I'll bring 'em along John as well as the cable/Laptop
PM sent Sean: £12.98 from the Senna T-shirt pot spent already...
These do look good Sean, good enough to eat...
Maybe I'll change the post from jack pads to dog training toy ! Eh John ?
View attachment 33228
This is George's sorry I munched on a jack pad face !!!
Are these jack pads to protect the sill whilst jacking the car?
I have experienced Audi dealers damaging my sills jacking the car by lifting it on its sills rather than at the proper jacking points I would personally be very careful with these.
NO, these locate properly in the 'jacking' position front and rear and they're actually very, very good for home use. Purchased mine straight after Sean recommended them, and before George found them tasty, and I find them superb, non-slip, and easy to use.
And 'some' Audi dealers damaging cars whilst servicing in no rare thing, as reported here many times.
Been using one of these since 2012 and all I can say is they are a revelation on the standard Halfrauds 'bogo' 2 tonne jack. There is a tiny bit of difficulty getting the puck in place as the car is lowered 20mm and it only just fits, but the reassurance and stability it provides was worth every penny.
I have found them superb !!
They are designed to protect the pinch weld and should only be used where the triangle imprints indicate jacking from.... they are basically lifting on the two points either side of the pinch weld.
Here you can look at them
I've used them and think they are great.....
The dog has used them and finds them equally tasty
AUDI A3 A5 Rubber Jack Pad Trolley Jack adapter Pinch weld Rubber block | eBay
The 'other' jacking points further in with the hexagonal cover on them are, as far as i've read, only for using the 4 post/arm lift which is generally what most dealers use as this lifts the 'whole' car equally.
Steady Muttley !!
Sounds like you have just explained how 2 separate Audi dealers had damaged my sills ... using the 4 post/arm lift to lift the car on its sills rather than the 'other' jacking points further in. On one occasion they didn't bother putting one of the arms under the car and bent the sill nearly flat on to the chassis.
Please forgive the stupid question, should you not use a trolley jack on the 'other' jacking points further in then?
The lifting jack in your boot, the one AUDI supplied for the RS3, and have supplied as 'fit-for-use', is what these pinch weld rubber blocks replicate. I for one have used a home-made wood block with rubber pad on BLUEY for the past 30-months, and I regularly remove wheels of BLUEY and off RS3s belonging to others and have NEVER had an issue with that, however, these pinch weld rubber blocks are better - like so (with BLUEY's rear brakes stripped awaiting delivery (today) of REDSTUFF rear pads):
Note: these are the shallow-blocks; Veneeringman has since quite rightly corrected me and I've now ordered the deeper-blocks recommended for the A3/S3/RS3.
I've seen cars lifted with the four arm/two post lift's near the pinch welds, however to do this the mechanic has used four rubber blocks that offer similar protection as these round pads do.
As you quite rightly say not every mechanic / Tec will be as aware / careful lifting your car, that is why i used to dread going to a tyre place they just seem to jack the vehicle up from anywhere.
The beauty of these jack pads is 1 can be kept in the boot for those trips to the tyre fitters, just a matter then of showing the fitter where / how to use it.
Regarding the 'inner' jacking points I have read on a few forums that jacking the car from 1 off these points with a trolley jack is a no-no, apparently they are designed to be used as four lifting points.
Obviously this is only information i've found on the Web, I'm more than happy to be proved wrong.
Nice one. I had a puck that could be used with the 4 under jacking points, but given your research I've just purchased the deep sill puck as I've got spacers all round and a transmission mount to fit on the S5 when the car arrives next week-ish.
I'm leaving a shallow (@ £5.98 delivered...) one in the boot: think; flat tyre, low sill, RAC man, whatever...
I'll quite happily send George over to munch the other one John.......
I might have missed this but cannot see were you can purchase these from they look like they would be perfect for what I want
See "AUDI A3 A5 Rubber Jack Pad Trolley Jack adapter Pinch weld Rubber block" on eBay..
I've now tried three versions: homemade wood, shallow Vegum rubber, and deep Vegum rubber:
I made my homemade wood pads back in 2011 when I first purchased the RS3 and are the one I prefer to use both at the front and/or rear of the RS3. Note the indent in the homemade wood pad created by the underside - once formed it'll not get worse.
I found the shallow Vegum rubber pads on line and purchased but was advised (by another RS3 owner) that I should be using the deeper Vegum rubber pads so I purchased. I'm told that both shallow and deep Vegum rubber pads have been known to split but I've not used 'em long enough to find out.
My homemade wood pads: a) a piece of 25mm thick timber, 85mm x 145mm, and b) a piece of 25mm thick timber, 35mm x 80mm. Use two 20mm long wood screws to fasten the 2-pieces together.
OK, on mine I used a piece of 20mm thick timber and added a 5mm thick piece of rubber to act as a cushion but that isn't really necessary.
Just a matter of using whatever is best eh John ?
Just done the Dual mass Flywheel on the 3.2 TT and the Rubber jack pads i use for the RS3 weren't suitable for the MK 1 TT so i made 2 new ones from some Fire door offcuts i had lying around the unit !!
Just grooved them out on the dimension saw deep enough to accept the TT pinch welds, perfect.....
I think Im going to do the same as John or cut down my pinch weld adaptors.
I bought a 1006 and 1007 back in 2006
Which, I have never really used, mainly because the pinch weld will not reach the bottom of the puck to lift, without modification.
Johns picture above looks to me as correct use, lifting on the pinch weld edge, with little to no touch on the body.
However, without modification, mine would look more like this google picture... shown on the link above...
Which i am convinced is wrong, as it is not lifting ON the pinch weld, and is most likely to lift on / crush the body itself, or on the RS3 warp/deform the side sills.
Or George can have them !
He does love the odd jackpad !! have to keep him out the garage !!!!!!
An update to correct my previous post...
I happened to find some hockey puck style jack pads for the 8V A3/S3 model
Which states :
This will fit all Audi A3 and S3 models from 2012 onwards (model designation 8V).
Note: The Audi A3/S3 8V model requires the pad to be in contact with the seam to take the weight rather than the previous 8P model where the floor either side of the seam took the weight.
( You can see in the advert pictures the seam weld has extra reinforced deep section to support the lift ON the seam. )
Where as their 8P A3/S3/RS3 version states:
Note: The Pinch weld goes in the groove and is not used for lifting. The Flats either side are used to lift the Car.
So George will have to chew on something else, as the above picture would appear to be correct now on the 8P chassis.
Hope this helps.
correct me if I am wrong here, but didn't one of these split in half on warrens S5?
One of the double ones from the same seller split clean in half on my old S3 with a halfords trolly jack, he reckoned it was because the jack does not have a flat base like some, regardless nearly ripped my side skirt clean off..., very dodgy.
I did notice the deeper hockey puck style one is a 2 piece, which might have had a factor, or maybe the pinch weld was lifted on and cut through.
The ones I linked which I bought in 2006, and largely went forgotton, are single piece. There is a flat based one for my bigger jack, and a recessed one for my smaller turret topped jack.
I rarely have the wheels off these days, so will only occasionally used.
Tried ALL of these and really don't like 'em - and truthfully won't use 'em:
3-years on and I'm STILL using my own timber items - front and rear and no reason to change:
No problems here using the black jack pads
On our RS 3 Especially with a 'flat' type trolly jack head.
They don't fit the TT but as I've said before I've just made a couple of wooden grooved blocks that work equally as well.
Interesting how some used them/really liked them, then now don't like them and think they are the work of satan ? strange.
If used with a flat headed Jack in the correct place i don't see an issue, especially if you use in conjunction with axle stands.
Really good info guys thanks - Looks like to me then if they are used as instructed in the advert then they are fine
Just for info the original advert has gone here is the new one:
I've been under the RS this morning checking something and I think these jack pads are great !
Seriously I don't have any issue with them...
They are probably best used in conjunction with a decent flat headed trolley jack as I'd imagine the cup headed jacks would mis-shape them upon lifting the car, thus stressing them in the centre.
Just a little update.
You will remember that I'd had one of these split which was due to my jack having a cup rather than a flat.
Well there's a solution for those that have a cup style jack, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TROLLEY-J...ck-jacking-pad-tool-classic-car-/281587677840
I reckon one of these used in conjunction with one of the above with the slot in it will work perfectly, I'd be tempted to bond the two of them together so they cant slip.
Hope it's useful, I've just ordered one of each so will let you know how it goes.
Interested to hear how you got on
T I M B E r r r r r r r r....
Still using these and with 4-years use on mine and numerous visiting RS3s - see post #31.
And me with 50-years of maintaining cars I just didn't trust them rubber ice-hockey 'puck' things so in the bin they went...
For the technically minded the base is: 6" x 3" x 1" thick piece of 'sawn-pine' with a 3" x 1.1/4" x 3/4" piece of 'sawn pine' on top - secured with 2 x 1.1/2 long wood screws from the underside and a 3" x 1.1/4" x 1/8" thick piece of rubber 'pinned' on top; simples...