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Rough Idling issue (updated) 1.8T (163)

Discussion in 'A4/A4 cabriolet/S4 forum(B6 chassis)' started by AudiJohn, Jan 20, 2011.

  1. AudiJohn
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    AudiJohn Member

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    Hi Guy's, just thought i'd give a quick update for future reference if needed on the issue i have recently had with the rough idling on my 1.8T (163) BFB. Found the cause to be the Crankcase breather valve that had perished inside and possibly the Breather tube that had seen better days and was a right pain in the backside to change. What a difference these parts i have changed today have made and at £61 it was worth it.:yes:

    1) Faster starting from cold
    2) Engine idling smooth and quieter
    3) Throttle alot more responsive
    4) Overall quicker
    5) Stopped oil leak (bonus)

    Parts changed for future reference below

    1) Vacuum valve 06A 129 101 D
    2) Crankcase breather valve 035 103 245 G
    3) Crankcase breather 3 way housing 06a 103 247
    4) Breather tube from crankcase 06A 103 213 F

    Usefull tips:

    • Take all associated pipework off a give a good clean (mine were caked with ****).
    • Remove header tank for easier access.
    • Remove all hose crimp clips and replace with proper hexagon /screw top ones
    • If like mine the breather tube from the crankcase is perished the metal sleeve will come out first and leave bits of plastic in the surround which still are not possible to get to by hand (i don't have sausage fingers but i was struggling). I used a long flat head screwdriver poked through the top of the inlet manifold and a hoover and modified the end with a bit of hose pipe, you can then loosen the remaining plastic with the screwdriver and have the pipe form the vacuum on it at the same time to save the plastic dropping in the crankcase.
    • Use plenty of washing up liquid or oil to get the new pipework and fittings back into place because with the limited space available you end up struggling and getting frustrated. I suppose you could remove the inlet manifold and the job would be easy but why create more work.
    • Finally make sure you put the crankcase breather tube clamp back into position.
    I have probably gone on a bit but i hope some people will find this wright up usefull and save them a few hundred quid.

    Thanks
    John:sm4:
    #1
    bowen and liamlisa1 like this.
  2. liamlisa1
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    liamlisa1 New Member

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    Hi

    Sorry to bring this old thread up again but i have exactly this problem and exact same car. How difficult was it getting to those one time clamps on the t-piece and do they just pull off once removed or are they molded on? Also any other tips would be gratefully appreciated!! I seen you done this without removing the im which is good because it's a pain in the ass draining the coolant etc.

    Thanks
    #2
  3. Mrmok
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    Mrmok Member

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    I changed these pipes very recently. Those clamps are a B1TCH without the correct tool! I ended up attacking them with cutters until they came off. But the good news is that once the clamps are off the pipes are easily removed, although the T shaped pipe was stuff on with coked up gunk and had to be helped off with a stanley knife.........but in a nutshell it's not a hard job
    #3
  4. liamlisa1
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    liamlisa1 New Member

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    did you remove the im or just swing the coolant expansion tank out of the way?

    Thanks
    #4

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