Retrofit Rear Parking Sensors?

Yes the plug is included with that loom, but tbh you can tap into the canbus on the convenience module thats right next to that module anyway as I did for my towbar module, also could tap into power on same module I reckon, you wouldnt neccessarily have to run to the front, just check fuse parking would normally be on & then check if conv module is using same one, then you know you can tap into at that corner instead of running to front like I ****** did lol.
 
audi upgrades
I totally tapped into the conv module though you do get an error with vagcom for the power supply being faulty. The 12v must supposed to be perm 12v, not switched 12v. Its not an issue though.
 
Thats cause ur a lazy rse, lol

What error you getting mate for future ref.
 
Ok, so at the moment I have the instruction manual in German in pdf format (unfortunately I dont understand German).

But from what I can understand from the pics, I would need to connect one of the cables to PIN 5 Low and another to PIN 15 High (whatever that means?)?

"Verbinden Sie die verdrillten CAN-Leitungen mit [FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]PIN 5 Low [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]sowie [FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]PIN 15 High [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]des 20-poligen Steckers [FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial]vom Can Gateway, welches sich rechts oberhalb des Bremspedalgestänges befindet (Bild 9)."[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

I dont know how to host the pdf so if anyone does pm me your email address & I'll forward it onto you..
 
NHN said:
Thats cause ur a lazy rse, lol

What error you getting mate for future ref.
Click to expand...
Sure am! Also I know trim never goes back a squeak free as before LOL. Sorry, cant remember fault code, something about intermitant power supply etc
 
I'll leave Ew to advise on wiring as I'm knee deep in IT ***** atm Ryan, he's more than capable & I helped him to a degree iirc or am I confusing you with someone else K, I'm sure he wont mind advising, I just have to get this done asap so I dont lose data, if you get really stuck then just ask me directly, also Ew has elsa installed atm where as I havnt reinstalled it yet, but you can do most of everything in that corner.
 
The low & high are the canbus signals. 5 will go to Can Low and 15 to Can High. IIRC they are orange/green and orange/brown - sorry cant rem which way round!!
 
I sure do have ELSA, just not on this computer LOL! Thought i still had the notes i jotted down but it turns out they were for the cruise control I finshed today!!! Will look into it for you.
 
on the convenience module next to the PDC module, the orange/green wire is CAN high and should be connected to pin 15 of the PDC loom marked CAN high and orange/brown wire on the convenience module is Can low and should be connected to pin 5 of the PDC loom. Tapping right into the convenience module means you dont have to run 2 wires to the front of the car. Its probably recommended to run the power to the correct place if you want to avoid errors though it works fine. The earth point is located just above the modules on the car body.
 
Any idea where all the other cables go on the Kufatec loom as there seems to be quite a few?

I guess I'll have to get me craft knife and soldering iron out then :readit:
 
IIRC, two wires to 12v, one to earth, one can high, one can low & 2 for the buzzer. Been busy with soldering iron myself too today LOL
 
Anyone got an idot's guide (with pics would be helpful) on how to remove the drivers side rear panel in the boot so I can get at the convenience module?
 
Cant remember how I did it but its not for the faint hearted as it's held on by spring clips that make a horrible cracking noise. I remember removing the trim that runs along the back where the warning triangle is. There could be a nut under it to be removed for the side trim? The back seat had to go forward. Then there is lots of prying to pop the trim off, especially up near the seabelt area. Sorry I cant be of more help.
 
Khufu said:
Cant remember how I did it but its not for the faint hearted as it's held on by spring clips that make a horrible cracking noise. I remember removing the trim that runs along the back where the warning triangle is. There could be a nut under it to be removed for the side trim? The back seat had to go forward. Then there is lots of prying to pop the trim off, especially up near the seabelt area. Sorry I cant be of more help.
Click to expand...

Close enough. no nut to remove, well not on mine anyway just held in with spring clips & locating lugs.

So get something flat under the trim that goes along the back edge with warning triangle as K advised & it pulls away & up towards the sky, once this is of, then the side trim needs to be pulled of in the same fashion, get something flat under the side trim thats hidden by the boot lid water seal, slowly prise this of & it will come away from the other trims above it & it should be obvious once this comes away how it comes out, it will be held in place also by the 2 metal loops in the boot floor used for the retaining net, once its been positioned free of these it should come out easily tbh & as K advised push seats forward.
 
Well I would be happy to install for you mate, email me directly & we'll see what we can sort out.
 
Ok I think I've worked out which cable is which.

As Nigel & K said I can tap into the canbus from the boot, so I just need to run the two power supplies & the ground to the front of the car.

Just interested in:
1) Where does the constant power supply plug into at the front of the car?
2)Can you just run both power supplies to the same point or do you need two seperate power supplies?
 
They are supposed to go to seperate supplies - I believe one a permanent 12v and the other is a switched 12v, I'm afraid I just joined them together & connected them to the 12v for the convenience module ( I will sort it properly soon LOL). I cant actually remember what fuse positions they go to! There is an earth point just above the module when you can bolt a ring terminal to the rest of the earths.
 
Thanks Khufu

One cable they have left with a bare end and the other has an end crimped like a repair wire, so at a guess I would say the bare wire is for a switched 12v?

Surely there must be a permanent 12v in that little cubby hole somewhere?
 
Hi Guys

Can anyone bullet point the differences between the manfacture and aftermarket rear parking sensors functionality.

There was some mention of config changes availability on the DIS in this thread and I don't believe I have anything like such.

Thanks
Pii
 
With oem its connected to the car system so any faults can be diagnosed using VCDS and depending on year of car etc I believe you can adjust volume of parking sensor using the DIS.

A assumed that the wire i used was permenate but turned out not to be. Will need to study wiring digrams again.
 
Khufu said:
A assumed that the wire i used was permenate but turned out not to be. Will need to study wiring digrams again.
Click to expand...

Khufu, can you remember which wire you tapped into for the power? As like you said one needs to be permanent live, whilst the other is ignition live.

Looks like I may have to get the multimeter out....
 
I went straight to fusebox & checked the fuse that factory fitment used & either piggybacked existing wire it should of used or used the unused fuse slot with a repair wire, you really need elsawin for this job mate to do properly as latching onto existing fuses without knowing the load could cause you more trouble than worth, so do it properly & you'll appreciate it later, trust me.
 
N, how easiy is it to remove the side trim without breaking LOL? I will probably end up rewiring my PDC module properly when I'm wiring in fuel pump wire.

Ryan, IIRC, its the plain red wire that twice as thick as the rest of the wires? Did you find the earth point on the body of the car with the brown wire(s) leading into it?
 
For a man of your talents, very easy, secret is to not be bull in china.....................................

Grounding point is just behind the drivers side rear lamp thats bolted to the chassis, thats what I used for pdc & trailer modules.
 
NHN said:
I went straight to fusebox & checked the fuse that factory fitment used & either piggybacked existing wire it should of used or used the unused fuse slot with a repair wire, you really need elsawin for this job mate to do properly as latching onto existing fuses without knowing the load could cause you more trouble than worth, so do it properly & you'll appreciate it later, trust me.
Click to expand...

Nigel, is it ok to tap into the canbus high/low & the ground in the boot & just run the two live wires to the fusebox? Or should I run the canbus wires to the front also?

Unfortunately I have tried to install Elsawin a couple of times now with not much success.
 
Loaded the software ok, but just cant open the workshop manual. Emailed the guy I bought it from & he says make sure your in the correct operating mode (XP SP2, I'm running Vista by the way).
 
maybe thats the problem. There was a problem running something, but maybe etka under vista?

Have you run the admin program 1st & created a new user? Login with admin & pasword admin. You need to create a new user (NOT another admin!) 1st before you try running Elsa

Also, if your not getting that far have you tried right clicking on the application (not link) & run as an administrator? My elsa is on my pc in my office that is running xp but its only 3.5 :-( LOL
 
Yes just run power to the right locations & tap into can & ground in rear quarter.

Also when you open ELSA & login with your info, you get a pop up window, this if closed will not let you see anything, you have to keep this open, scroll this to the bottom & click ok, then you can use ELSA as per norm, dont worry this happened to me if its the case with you mate, lol.

ETKA & ELSA works under Vista as I've had it running & Win 7 for 1 or other, cant recall which but will install again soon as have some wiring to do, lol.
 
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Yeah as soon as the fatness of food I just ****** goes down, grilled chicken with olive oil, grilled mushrooms & some veg, oh & some philadelphia for chicken, as always ate to much, stick a fork in me I'm a xmas turkey, lol

Yes need that up & running again.
 
Nah cause waste of £25/30 as would of bought to much food & some vino, so cook food in kitchen so not a lazy fecker, lol.
 
NHN said:
Nah cause waste of £25/30 as would of bought to much food & some vino, so cook food in kitchen so not a lazy fecker, lol.
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pfft, i grude more than £6 for a spicy chicken pizza with plenty of green chilies! LOL

oh, er, Ryan I hope you get it working LOL
 
Khufu said:
maybe thats the problem. There was a problem running something, but maybe etka under vista?

Have you run the admin program 1st & created a new user? Login with admin & pasword admin. You need to create a new user (NOT another admin!) 1st before you try running Elsa

Also, if your not getting that far have you tried right clicking on the application (not link) & run as an administrator? My elsa is on my pc in my office that is running xp but its only 3.5 :-( LOL
Click to expand...

Ha Ha got Etka running fine thanks.

With regards to Elsa, ran admin program first, I created a new user, log in with the new user details, get the big message come up, scroll down and click ok at the bottom, then I get all these messages come up one by one:

Failed to load "InfoPASS"
Failed to load "InfoSNK"
Failed to load "InfoHS2"
Failed to Load "InfoWT"
Failed to load "InfoSLP"
Failed to load "InfoWWW"
Failed to load "InfoAU"
Failed to load "InfoRL"
Failed to load "InfoKi2"
Failed to load "InfoIGG"
Failed to load "InfoSAZ"

Then I try to load up Workshop manual and it brings up a message:

Failed to create empty folder.

Then the program wont open. Checked in properties under Compatability and it says Windows XP (Service Pack 2).

Very confused....
 
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