Anyone got a guide on how to remove s3 8p Downpipe? Going to be gutting my stock precat tonight and need a step by step of removing the Downpipe from car as don't want to break anything if I can help it
Removing s3 8p downpipe
- Thread starter TommyH88
- Start date
I did mine on the floor and it was great fun!
Right the way I did it is as follows
Oil 4 downpipe bolts up with WD the day before
Engine heated right up (easy to remove the lambda's if there a little tough)
Remove air filter to get access to bolts on cat
Remove both lambda sensors
Leave to cool if you heat
Oil up bolts again
You can access 3 of the bolts from the engine bay and this is by far the easiest way to access them, I'm assuming you have a decent enough tool setup, just need a ratchet and extension bar really
Next lift the car up and get the centre section off the downpipe
Remove the heat guard at the centre of the exhaust and remove the 2 bolts holding the prop up in the centre
Mark the front of the prop with tip ex so you know where to put it back! Remove the 3 bolts with a triple square 10mm socket (I think out of memory) and move the prop over to the right
You can now access the last bolt, I used a spanner for this moving the bolt out very slowly, but I was lay on the floor when I did this
When this is out then your cat will come out pretty easy mate!
Right the way I did it is as follows
Oil 4 downpipe bolts up with WD the day before
Engine heated right up (easy to remove the lambda's if there a little tough)
Remove air filter to get access to bolts on cat
Remove both lambda sensors
Leave to cool if you heat
Oil up bolts again
You can access 3 of the bolts from the engine bay and this is by far the easiest way to access them, I'm assuming you have a decent enough tool setup, just need a ratchet and extension bar really
Next lift the car up and get the centre section off the downpipe
Remove the heat guard at the centre of the exhaust and remove the 2 bolts holding the prop up in the centre
Mark the front of the prop with tip ex so you know where to put it back! Remove the 3 bolts with a triple square 10mm socket (I think out of memory) and move the prop over to the right
You can now access the last bolt, I used a spanner for this moving the bolt out very slowly, but I was lay on the floor when I did this
When this is out then your cat will come out pretty easy mate!
Sweet bud appreciate that will give it a bash tonight 
it's removing the prop that scares me but sounds easy enuff. Does the prop only go back in one place? Once downpipe is off I'll gut the precat then reinstall it back on car
it's removing the prop that scares me but sounds easy enuff. Does the prop only go back in one place? Once downpipe is off I'll gut the precat then reinstall it back on car
I was scared too mate but really it's nothing to worry about, it has to line up with 3 bolts so it can't go that wrong if you mark it mate, I used tip ex and it was fine, another tip for when your taking the prop off get one bolt in an accessible position and remove the bolt, put the car in neutral and spin the front wheel and the prop will move the next bolt into position and then put it in gear to remove the bolt and so on
Like I say mate as long as the prop is marked then you have no issues, don't use tape it just won't stick haha
Like I say mate as long as the prop is marked then you have no issues, don't use tape it just won't stick haha
I did mine on the floor and it was great fun!
Right the way I did it is as follows
Oil 4 downpipe bolts up with WD the day before
Engine heated right up (easy to remove the lambda's if there a little tough)
Remove air filter to get access to bolts on cat
Remove both lambda sensors
Leave to cool if you heat
Oil up bolts again
You can access 3 of the bolts from the engine bay and this is by far the easiest way to access them, I'm assuming you have a decent enough tool setup, just need a ratchet and extension bar really
Next lift the car up and get the centre section off the downpipe
Remove the heat guard at the centre of the exhaust and remove the 2 bolts holding the prop up in the centre
Mark the front of the prop with tip ex so you know where to put it back! Remove the 3 bolts with a triple square 10mm socket (I think out of memory) and move the prop over to the right
You can now access the last bolt, I used a spanner for this moving the bolt out very slowly, but I was lay on the floor when I did this
When this is out then your cat will come out pretty easy mate!
+1 from me
Done it last night. Car feels so much better! The low down pull is instant now and pulls a lot harder midrange top end. Def a worth while free mod
Sammyfat
Registered User
Yeah had it on a 2 poster ramp and was a lot easier. Having revo stage 2 map out on at weekend, currently stage 1 but rang revo and they said it's fine to run stage 2 with just precat delete as that's the most restrictive part of the exhaust. If went 2+ then obv I would get a proppa turbo back exhaust and a uprated pump.
Off boost is the only place where I feel like the stage 1 is lacking, so having a little more power low end is exactly what I'm looking for.
It doesn't have to be mapped, however it would much be more beneficial to do so for sure, especially if you already have a CAI as you can then go straight to stage 2.
Handy to know that you can get the Revo stage 2 map with this mod, money is a limiting factor for me at the moment unfortunately, therefore my stage 2+ plans are a long way off annoyingly
I'll now be going down the cheaper stage 2 route of getting this mod done and the revo map, rather than a BCS downpipe and custom map from Storm Devs.
Looking on other forums, people have just been using a flathead screwdriver and hammer to break up & remove the pre-cat material.
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/197778-pre-cat-removed/
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,41083.0.html
I would say it's worth it too, my car RR'd at 220bhp before a remap with a decat and CAI (20 bhp on top of standard)
scotty dugg
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This is it mate especially as there's no downsides to it and for a free mod if you can do it yourself, or only an hours labour if you'd rather a professional do it. I should hopefully be getting it done by my brothers work this Friday, so I'll make sure to give some feedback after.
It's then only a £60 charge for upgrading my Revo stage 1 map to stage 2 and then an hours labour on top which isn't bad. When the day comes for stage 2+ though, I'll then be going for a full BCS Powervalve TBE as well as a custom map from Storm Developments to get the most out of everything.
I had the pre-cat delete done yesterday and it's definitely a worthwhile mod, especially if you're on a budget. The turbo spools up a little quicker where the hot gasses are no longer flying out straight into a brick wall causing unnecessary back pressure, it's a little louder when giving it some as well.
I also had the GFB Diverter Valve+ fitted and this too has made a noticeable difference, the clear benefit is that it holds boost for longer. There wasn't necessarily anything wrong with the Rev G DV I had fitted in March along with my Revo Stage 1 remap and Revo CAI, however that's to be treated as a service item as where it holds boost better then the Rev D DV, it's diaphragm design means that it is prone to rupturing when driving hard in remapped cars.
All that's left now is for me to pay £60 to upgrade to my Revo software to stage 2! So I'll be arranging this with VAS Motion shortly.
I also had the GFB Diverter Valve+ fitted and this too has made a noticeable difference, the clear benefit is that it holds boost for longer. There wasn't necessarily anything wrong with the Rev G DV I had fitted in March along with my Revo Stage 1 remap and Revo CAI, however that's to be treated as a service item as where it holds boost better then the Rev D DV, it's diaphragm design means that it is prone to rupturing when driving hard in remapped cars.
All that's left now is for me to pay £60 to upgrade to my Revo software to stage 2! So I'll be arranging this with VAS Motion shortly.
scotty dugg
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Any news on how this is getting on? Think I've decided to follow suit and put funds towards some other items to get done at the same time.
It's still going great mate, I really like how the turbo spools that little bit quicker now and from 5,000rpm is where you notice that the exhaust is louder than before. For stage 2+ I'll definitely be getting a BCS Powervalve TBE but for the time being when you're on a budget, you really can't complain for what is a good cheap/free mod.
I'll be getting my stage 2 put on next month so I'll let you know how this goes as well.
scotty dugg
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Benjamin Kyle
Registered User
I did mine on the floor and it was great fun!
Right the way I did it is as follows
Oil 4 downpipe bolts up with WD the day before
Engine heated right up (easy to remove the lambda's if there a little tough)
Remove air filter to get access to bolts on cat
Remove both lambda sensors
Leave to cool if you heat
Oil up bolts again
You can access 3 of the bolts from the engine bay and this is by far the easiest way to access them, I'm assuming you have a decent enough tool setup, just need a ratchet and extension bar really
Next lift the car up and get the centre section off the downpipe
Remove the heat guard at the centre of the exhaust and remove the 2 bolts holding the prop up in the centre
Mark the front of the prop with tip ex so you know where to put it back! Remove the 3 bolts with a triple square 10mm socket (I think out of memory) and move the prop over to the right
You can now access the last bolt, I used a spanner for this moving the bolt out very slowly, but I was lay on the floor when I did this
When this is out then your cat will come out pretty easy mate!
Hi Cambaines, sorry to hijack this old thread, I have recently embarked on this journey of replacing the stock downpipe with a Milltek sports cat DP.
My question; I'm confused about this part "Remove the heat guard at the centre of the exhaust and remove the 2 bolts holding the prop up in the centre" - is the heat guard up by the turbo or near the secondary cats? Where are the 2 bolts holding the prop? I've unbolted the 3 triple square bolts but it doest move very much.
I also managed to shear one of the studs in the turbo, I have a stud extractor on the way with some new studs and nuts, so hoping I can resolve this myself, seems to be a very common issue.
Been quite a challenge working on the floor with just 2 front axle stands.
Benjamin Kyle
Registered User
UPDATE: Got the old downpipe off and extracted the broken stud, now just waiting for the postie to arrive with my new studs and the Milltek sports cat can roar.
