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Rear Brake Pads

Spoon Sep 8, 2008

  1. Spoon

    Spoon Member

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    Car Has Just Been in for its mot and they said to me the rear break pads needed changing and they want £160

    the car is a 56 plate Audi A6 2.7TDI with electric handbrake

    befor i start doing the work my self is there anything i should know or are the calipers and pads the same as on any other car

    any help would be great
     
  2. enda1

    enda1 Member

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    From what i hear you need a diganostic kit to change the pads on cars with the electronic hand brake on the new passat. The audi could be the same
     
  3. Spoon

    Spoon Member

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    any one got any more info like what the bit of kit is that i might need or instructions on how to go about doing it
     
  4. Flying Spanner

    Flying Spanner Member

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    Hi, the Centre will use a diagnostic tool to wind back the caliper motors via guided functions, once new pads are fitted, the motors are wound back again with the tool and the job is done. I have a 5051b if you are close to me which will do the job.
     
  5. SiliconS

    SiliconS Member

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    Holy shiat! You now need a computer to change brake pads on a modern car??? The world has gone mad.

    I did rear discs and pads on my '99 A6 at the weekend. 20 mins per side.
     
  6. Verne

    Verne New Member

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    Tis crazy, rears on my '98 A6 are some of the easiest I've ever done
     
  7. votblindub

    votblindub Member

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    i replaced all the brakes on my 2003 A6. I got new Zimmerman front rotors, ATE rear rotors and PAGID RS4-2-1 street pads. you basically jack up the car, take off the wheel, unbolt the bolts behind the caliper that hold it down and carefull take it off the rotor(dont pull it fast or too hard so you dont yank out the brake line). Then we hit the stuck rotors with a rubber hammer and took them off. then pull out the pads from the rotors. the rear pads have clips in them that go inside the opening of the caliper to hold them in. just yank those right out. then using a caliper tool we pushed the piston back in. dont use the metal cube that goes on the socket wrench, those are 5h!te. it doesnt push the piston in. i got whats called a master disc brake kit at a local auto store(we later just returned it for a full refund) and use the tool in that to turn the caliper back in. when youre doing this watch that rubber sleeve(its like foreskin-sorry for the analogy, but it looks and wrinkles just like it) thats around the pison. when youre turning the piston back in make sure it doesnt get jammed or pinched anywhere an slowly push that piston back into the caliper. then put the new pads in. mine went in crooked, but they ended up straightening out some when i put the caliper back on the new rotor and once the assembly was back to normal the pads straightened out completely after applying the brakes. you may need to pump them a few times before they clamp down. do this while the car is not moving and is off. youll feel the pedal go stiff, then stop pumping it. the front setup is slightly different. the rotors are bigger and the calipers are very big on my car. theres a retainer clip in the rotor that you have to remove as well when getting the pads out. the calipers come off the same as rears, its just bolts in the back. the front pads on my car had a three clip thing on the back of them that goes INTO the caliper around where the piston is. we just used a flathead screwdriver to pry up one side and pulled the pad out by hand. its not hard to do. then push that piston back the same way as you did in the back minding the rubber sleeve around it. push the new pad in till you feel and head all those three clips in the back of it snap into the caliper. put on the new rotor and slide the caliper over it and bolt it back. then pump your brakes again till the pedal goes stiff. take a good look to make sure its all back on and you didnt miss anything. get the wheels back on and go for a very slow drive, to make sure they work. follow the pad and rotor manufacturer instructions for bedding pads and rotors and youre good to go. all my parts cost me 600 dollars with shipping included-the number is for reference only. it may cost you more or less depending on where you buy. i bought OEM spec parts(or slightly better). I got crossdrilled rotors because they cost basically the same and are slightly better than just plain OEM ones. This took us just a few hours. The first one took a long time because we were trying to figure out how to do it, the second side i did in under 20 minutes. :rock: good luck. let me know if you have more questions. i can look for some photos that we took during, those might help you if my explanation isnt clear enough.
     

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