Pros and cons on an 2003 Audi s4 4.2 v8

BAD BOY V

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guys looking for some information in what to look out for on an Audi 2003 s4 v8, I've never had an v8 before always been turbo cars, so would like to know what are the common issues with them, been looking at one atm has 110k on the clock looks mint condition, but weighing up the extra costs, I know they won't be cheap to run, have had a 3000GT and a 03 sub Impreza in the past so I know about the extra maintenance but just would like to hear current or ex owners of this spec

Cheers

Vijay
 
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Look out for chain rattle, as if the guides are cracked which gets more likely with higher miles and the general age of the car, the engine has to come out and this is about a £2k to £3k job due to the labour involved ........at which point you might aswell do the chain also.

Same issue on the B7 S4 and B7 RS4

Would love an S4 but the chain guide issue scares me off personally...........unless you find a car that has had the work done already :)
 
They take 9 litres of oil, and do use up a bit too. Known as the v8 oil burner to some. I might change viscosity on mine and see if it changes it.

Lovely motor. I came from a 99 Scooby impreza, and love it. I do miss the turbo, but the car is just a fast, if not a little bit quicker.

If I had vcds before buying I could have got some money off. The alarm box was not working (didn't make sound) so maybe check that when buying, as is a common problem.

The higher millage cars may have chain rattle, as mike has said. It should go after max 5 seconds, but I'm not 100% sure as mine is low millage.

Just make sure both banks sound good, no misfires, the rattle is not there or gone very very quickly.

I average around 17mpg in mine, around town driving to and from work etc. Not sure on motorway, expected more, but at 60-70 you're around 2.5 to 3k rpm so not as great as I would hope.
In the Scooby I would average around 17mpg, but that was with harder driving. The s4 average is more slower driving.

Matt
 
i had mine for 9 years

there are lots of issues with them which is why its important to research them beforehand and make sure you buy a good one

chain rattle is a concern as the hydraulic tensioners go weak over time so as the chain slackens and wears the plastc guides inside the engine
there are now cures to stop this from ever happening but they are not cheap but seriously consider getting one as it could save a lot of money in the long run and it can be removed if you decide to sell the vehicle

check the inlet manifold over 5000 rpm ... this is where the second stage kicks in
there is a small actuator down the front of the engine which should move 90 degrees when over 5000rpm
if it doesnt you are down about 70-80 hp and about 1000 quid to sort it

if its manual check the clutch and syncros are all ok look for evidence of a differential service on front and rear diff at 40-60k

if its auto look for evidence of a transmission oil and filter change after 60k ... dont forget the filter some people just change oil which to me is pointless
you wouldnt do it on an engine why on earth would you do it on a transmission

if car is standard it should be on 5w30 fully synthetic oil
if its been tuned a little 5w40 fully synthetic

my car never used a drop of oil but a lot of other owners have reported that theres does ... i think this is pot luck and nobody seems to be able to pinpoint why this is

balljoints and upper and lower arms are common items to eventually require replacement ... when replacing stick to the more well known brands
dont buy cheap or after 12months youll be doing it again

average of 17 mpg round town best i ever had was 29.9 coming back from edinburgh driving it like a hearse

non resonated exhausts are loud but also very droney on motorway
resonated is a good compromise

to tune them you need to remove the pre cat and have it mapped out as thats where the restriction is
it does make a big differance though
 
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