Project: Derv Shed

S4_dan

Fire up the Quattro!
VCDS Map User
Joined
Jan 5, 2006
Messages
2,847
Reaction score
188
Points
63
Location
Somewhere in the Howardian Hills!
Well I finally got a good nosey around the 1.9 tdi today.

  • Some lacquer peel on the roof, the rest of the body was in great nick. O/S/F wing a slightly different shade of red.
  • Drivers seat bolster worn but the rest of the interior is tidy but needs a valet.
  • All discs are rusted over. Fronts are brand new including pads. There is a set of brand new discs and pads for the rear with the car.
  • 2" hole in front subframe. Could be patched up or replace with a good solid one included with the car.
  • Battery is shot.
  • drive belt tensioner has snapped where the plastic wheel joins the metal pivot. I'm assuming clutch pulley on alternator has failed thus stressing the tensioner.
  • Coolant level was low in the tank. Will need to investigate further, HG had been done 3 years along with timing belt.
That's it for now really. Manage to push car forward and backwards no problem. Didn't dare try the handbrake! lol

Here is a couple of pics;
20150321_153323_zpsr7ajew5g.jpg

20150321_153335_zpsvvpyoaoh.jpg

20150321_153345_zpsrr4cutof.jpg

20150321_153356_zpsokabhogh.jpg


Going round on Monday or Tuesday to fire her up and then have her towed home 5 miles.

Got her for a grand total of £150 in the end.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kevinb5
Not sure as yet. Main thing is to get her running and test for any over heating issues etc. Then get her MOT'd. I bought it for my wife but I may end up keeping it and she can have my B6. If that's the case, then maybe a BV-43 turbo and remap for the engine and lowered suspension and FL headlights.....for now.....
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kevinb5
Decent buy!

You could vinyl wrap the roof to get rid of the laquer peel, or even plastidip.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S4_dan
Nice one mate,you will need to socket the ecu and chip it rather than a map but that's not the end of the world either,if you are looking into more power down the road larger nozzles made a high difference to mine,even without a tune and wasn't any heavier on fuel either
 
  • Like
Reactions: S4_dan
Nice one mate,you will need to socket the ecu and chip it rather than a map but that's not the end of the world either,if you are looking into more power down the road larger nozzles made a high difference to mine,even without a tune and wasn't any heavier on fuel either

Might be a while off yet but it's something to keep in my sin bin. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kevinb5
plastidip is very easy, wrapping is somewhat harder.

plastidip you just mask up the car and spray it on like spray paint. Its like a rubber coating and if you want to remove it, it just peels off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S4_dan
Off to work now but picking the Derv Shed up this afternoon about 2pm ish. Then once home, I'll start on putting the front into service position.
 
Well got the car. Towed it back then reversed it down my drive. Mileage turned out to be lower than was told...

20150322_140825_zpsxysnxkct.jpg

Then started stripping the front down and drain the coolant.....
20150322_154428_zpsnns3mx39.jpg

The offending part.....
20150322_154445_zpsxiy4t0e0.jpg
20150322_154452_zpsc4xurp9o.jpg

A bit oily around the inlet/turbo/egr area.....
20150322_154614_zps9fp4kxw2.jpg

Turbo had some oil in it, but wiped clean. Very little side - side movement. No in - out movement.

20150322_161801_zpsgyfy9gbe.jpg


Found this on the viscous coupling, will it cause any issues do you think??
20150322_161842_zpslhsyyu6o.jpg
20150322_161851_zps0x1zkqxl.jpg


This is where I'm at now....
20150322_165039_zpsfzyapbxc.jpg


The inlet manifold is gunked up with sludge. So I've ordered some EGR blank plates and will remove the EGR. Can i use the original inlet mani gasket or are they easily enough to buy?

I've got the 16mm nut off the back of the tensioner. But for my life I cannot get the Viscous Coupling undone. I don't have a tool for locking the coupler. Any hints or tips for this part?

Can I put Mr Muscle in where the EGR sits onto the exhaust mani? Will that get down into the turbo to clean the vanes?
When revved hard, the smoke was really thick and black....well soot, not smoke really. I've got some Forte diesel fuel treatment and injector cleaner coming. Worked wonders on the 2.5.
 
Is the torx on the back of the viscous unit reverse threaded?

Maybe that's why my 5mm drill bent when placed through the small locking hole where the special tool sits.
 
So, I've been ordering bits.....

  1. 2 x cree led sidelight (just for fun)
  2. Air Filter
  3. Oil Filter
  4. 5/40w Fully synth oil
  5. Drive belt tensioner
  6. Drive belt
  7. Intake Mani gasket
  8. 3mm ID purple silicone vacuum hose
  9. Alternator clutch pulley removal tool
  10. Forte Advanced diesel fuel treatment injector cleaner
  11. Forte Bio cooling degreaser and flush
  12. EGR blanking plates
  13. Rubber oil filter wrench
Fuel filter will be ordered later on in the week.

Then plan is to fit the above, strip and clean all the brakes. Look at the rear ABS sensors (VCDS saying fault, no light on dash though) then put in for an MOT.

The lad told me today that one of the fuel tank straps has rotted off. Still 3 solid ones remain. I'm guessing that will be an mot failure missing one strap?
 
I would remove the inlet and clean it out that way. when doing the Mr muscle vnt clean I would try and get it in as close to the hot side as you can.
the gaskets should be available without any major problems.
 
As an ex body repairer and sprayer, I was dubious about plastidip until I bought some. It's fantastic stuff and the finish is as good as paint, but only as long as you completely strip the car of any waxes/polishes/greases before hand. You can tell if you haven't got rid of it all because the rubber won't want to settle on the areas and moves away from it, almost creating a pitting effect. Here's some pics of my old Type R wheels after plastidipping them:

897ae7174c8b07f030d2263e61853229.jpg


c56d4884df0161a47ef5bd3c1b8cdfe7.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: S4_dan and Kevinb5
I have some degreaser and then i'd give it all a rubbing over Farecla G3 rubbing compound. Would that get rid of all the grime?

Today, I finally managed to get the viscous coupling off so I could release the drive belt tensioner. Went and robbed the viscous coupling off my mates donor AFN passat today, came off much easier than mine did!!

Car is ready for refit of new parts once they arrive. I'm not going to do the timing belt just yet. I'm going to get the front rebuilt then tackle the rear discs and put in for an MOT.
 
I have some degreaser and then i'd give it all a rubbing over Farecla G3 rubbing compound. Would that get rid of all the grime

Yeah that would do the job nicely. I seriously can't rate plastidip any more, it's fantastic stuff and affordable too. If you're looking for a gloss finish you'll have to buy the glossifier. It's basically a lacquer to give it the wet look, however, standard lacquer doesn't work on it, I tried being cheap and learnt the hard way :( had to do the whole wheel again.

The stuff on the wheels I posted above was from a company called frost and it's called liquid wrap. Very reputable company and good prices too, might be worth a look.
 
To remove the viscous fan you need some big *** water pump pliers, hold it with that and use the 10mm hex at the back on a breaker bar. If you round the head then it will be a bit more difficult as you might need to drill larger and hammer a spline bit in there !
 
Yeah that would do the job nicely. I seriously can't rate plastidip any more, it's fantastic stuff and affordable too. If you're looking for a gloss finish you'll have to buy the glossifier. It's basically a lacquer to give it the wet look, however, standard lacquer doesn't work on it, I tried being cheap and learnt the hard way :( had to do the whole wheel again.

The stuff on the wheels I posted above was from a company called frost and it's called liquid wrap. Very reputable company and good prices too, might be worth a look.

Cheers, will give them a look up.

To remove the viscous fan you need some big *** water pump pliers, hold it with that and use the 10mm hex at the back on a breaker bar. If you round the head then it will be a bit more difficult as you might need to drill larger and hammer a spline bit in there !

Got it off in the end. Used a 5mm long allen key into the locking hole and then an 8mm hex with a 1/2 ratchet. Mine was much more difficult as it was maybe the original fan? The fan off my mates donor car was off two years ago and wasn't as difficult.
 
Some bits arrived today, drive belt tensioner, Drive belt, alternator clutch pulley tool, EGR blank plates, purple 3mm vacuum hose, new inlet mani gasket, Oil and air filter, 5 litres of 5/40w fully synth oil and 2 cree sidelight led's (that don't fit as they are wedge :audibash:! I'll hang fire until I get some FL lights fitted ;))


Everything but the actual alternator clutch pulley arrived. :mad new:

Got drive belt tensioner on, got the viscous coupling back on, refitted the cleaned out inlet manifold, fitted some vacuum hose (need to order 5mm for the larger vac hoses). I removed the header tank and cleaned it out, loads of 'clumps' or radweld came out, not good. I'm hoping it's from the P.P.O putting it in trying to fix the headgasket/water leak!

Air box refitted with new filter. EGR blank fitted on the exhaust manifold. The inlet mani blank plate needs fine tuning to get it to fit properly.

So hopefully tomorrow I will have the car all back together and running nicely. I'm praying after the oil service and with the other bits I've done, it won't soot when revved like it did before.
 
flush the whole cooling system.

Mixing old red and green/blue coolants can cause sludge to form in the system, so you might as well properly flush it all and refill with the proper stuff.
 
I have bought some degreaser and flush to put through it anyway. That arrived yesterday. The stuff that came out was the red/pink fluid but I didn't notice any Radwell bits in that. So hopefully those bits coming out of the tank was from cleaning it.

What is the ratio for G13 and water for a 1.9 b5?

I have two 1 litre bottles of G13 but I also need to flush my 2.5 B6 next weekend.....
 
Fuel tank straps arrived......both now what I need! So it's a 3 month wait for the right side strap?!

Think I'm going to have to fabricate a strap using one of the ones I have.
 
doh, is it actually a 3 month wait, or is it simply NLA?

I think the cooling system holds 5-6 litres, but i'm not 100% sure. Depends how empty it is too!
 
Got a tool made up at work today for the cam pulley. It's a holding tool allowing removal of the nut without turning the cam.
So I can now begin to remove the replacement head at the weekend. :)
 
Replacement head fitted with new head gasket kit. Camshaft seal replaced and new rocker cover gaskets fitted.

All fired up lovely. Could do with a service so I will stick some diesel in the oil and drain after 10mins fast idling and fill with 5/40 fully synth and new filter.

Already done air filter.

On hard revs, top end, there is loads of soot coming out of the exhaust. I will take a short video clip tomorrow. What would cause that? It did it before the belt snapped and I'm using the injectors that came with the replacement head. All turbo hoses are sound. Egr has been removed and blanked.

Could it be just soot from the cat/exhaust being blown out? I will decat it once not has been done.

Just need to get it up to temp and check the injection pump timing with vcds.
 
glad to hear you have it up and running.
it could be blowing all the soot out the system. plus if you have done the Mr muscle turbo clean there's a good chance its still blowing out all the gunk that's been cleaned out.
when you're taking it for its MOT take it the scenic route to give it a chance to get a clear out. good thing to do is do a couple of hard pulls on the turbo to get the variable vanes moving.
I normally let it pull from 45/ 50 up to around 75/80 in top a few times as that lets the turbo work and gives it a clear out.
 
20150406_130213_zpsq1mvhcpy.jpg
Well a bit more progress completed yesterday.

The tank strap was replaced with a new one, although the strap was actually for the middle it did fit the filler neck side perfectly too. So not sure why the different part numbers?

Also got the hole in the subframe welded up. It wasn't as big as the P.O. said and it was solid all around it so I cleaned it up and put a patch on it.

Went for a drive up a long private road to get the car to temp to check injection pump timing, turns out its within spec but retarded. So will sort that another day.


The soot got less each time I gave it some beans. So hopefully that will clear with time.
It did sound like it has a boost leak somewhere but it seemed to pull OK low revs. Mid to high range seemed sluggish, but then I haven't driven another old 1.9 to compare it with.

Abs likes to kick in every time the car came to a stop, my S4 used to do that, really annoying. Some light knocking from the rear. Not sure what that is as yet.

So going to try and get her in today for an mot all being well. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: kanecullen89
they should pull well up the rev range but if you have a boost leak it will be sluggish that could also explain the soot as it will smoke a bit if it has a boost leak.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S4_dan
ABS kicking in will be a split timing ring on one of the driveshafts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S4_dan
well, mot been done. She failed. O/S/R spring had snapped at the very top. Now done and all passed with no other advisories. Good day me thinks.

:audibash::thrashi:
 
Cheers.

The soot has cleared up an awful lot. Only a bit now but most likely due to the boost leak.

I think sourcing the boost leak will be foremost thing followed by adjusting injection pump timing. A good oil flush and service is on the cards too.

Then the next step will be a nearside rear spring. I prefer to replace both sides at same time.

I'm away for a few days from tomorrow so no work on the car until the following weekend.
I might even take the Derv Shed away with me and leave my wife with my B6 yet. Not sure. Would taking the Shed on a 240 mile round trip be good so soon? What with the boost leak I'm not sure how much that would affect fuel economy.
 
check all the boost hoses it shouldn't be hard to find.
the rubber pipe at the inlet manifold can split on the underside and you wont notice it. check that one first its the most common
if you get that fixed I would take it. it would give it a good run and let you see how it goes.