Project B6 420-TS Avant

Nollywood said:
It's just a name...Ford have nothing to do with the manufacturing process...probably manufacture paint for Audi and BMW too. :rock:
Click to expand...

Yeah I know that. Anyway how's the engine coming along?


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Hard to say what the colour will look like until it's all over the car... but then obviously it'll be too late haha.

Quite like the Focus RS Green colour but the S3 one looks good as well, I've always had a soft spot for the green they use on newer M3's too ("java green").

ERa0hUS.jpg


Think they're all hard to judge unless you see them in person.

Need to find someone who has a green fast car fetish and line all his cars up now haha.
 
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DieselJake said:
Hard to say what the colour will look like until it's all over the car... but then obviously it'll be too late haha.

Quite like the Focus RS Green colour but the S3 one looks good as well, I've always had a soft spot for the green they use on newer M3's too ("java green").

ERa0hUS.jpg


Think they're all hard to judge unless you see them in person.

Need to find someone who has a green fast car fetish and line all his cars up now haha.
Click to expand...

Oooh, you posted a picture of one of those "OTHER" German cars on an Audi forum


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As one of the issues encountered, when having a large engine in a relatively small engine bay is heat, this is one of the issues I'm going to be addressing with B6 420-TS.

You can add as many fans as you can physically fit in the available space. But it's useless, if the hot air can't be drawn out of the engine bay. Typically, the heated air sits at the rear of the engine. I'm going to be addressing this with real researched hood vents, shrouding, carefully selected fans and oil coolers.

I will also have a pair of scavenge ducts built into the false firewall, where heat can be drawn out from the scuttle area. The battery will be in the luggage compartment. Unlike in my previous V8 swaps, I'm going to run an OEM B6 S4 or B7 RS4 radiator. Aluminium aftermarket radiators sure look good, but I doubt their research budget is even a third of that of an OEM radiator on a Hyundai.

Every cooler will be painted satin black. Silver under the hood merely serves to reflect heat, and keep temps higher.
 
I took advantage of the brilliant weather today, to cut out the B7 RS4 rear "bulges" from the rear quarters. This has definitely ruled out any chance of my B6 having the B7 swage lines, that run from front to rear, above the door handles.

It'll soon be time to start cutting the actual car, once I get a new daily, and a shop to work in.







 
What was wrong with the parts car you're cutting up just out of curiosity. Good job, well done.
 
Nollywood said:
As one of the issues encountered, when having a large engine in a relatively small engine bay is heat, this is one of the issues I'm going to be addressing with B6 420-TS.

You can add as many fans as you can physically fit in the available space. But it's useless, if the hot air can't be drawn out of the engine bay. Typically, the heated air sits at the rear of the engine. I'm going to be addressing this with real researched hood vents, shrouding, carefully selected fans and oil coolers.

I will also have a pair of scavenge ducts built into the false firewall, where heat can be drawn out from the scuttle area. The battery will be in the luggage compartment. Unlike in my previous V8 swaps, I'm going to run an OEM B6 S4 or B7 RS4 radiator. Aluminium aftermarket radiators sure look good, but I doubt their research budget is even a third of that of an OEM radiator on a Hyundai.

Every cooler will be painted satin black. Silver under the hood merely serves to reflect heat, and keep temps higher.
Click to expand...

In light of this, If you decide to change your mind or have time to visit a custom cooling company, i would look no further than a company named, 'SerckMotorsport' in Hayes next door to where I got my custom exhaust from;

http://www.serckservicesmotorsport.co.uk/

I was VERY impressed by their craftsmanship and know they can definitely build you a solution. After all they mainly focus in racing applications.

You probably wont explore the option but just an option for you.
 
Nollywood, joining this forum (from across the pond, I gather) just to follow this thread, as you are building what for me is maybe the most exciting combination. The B6 is my first and will always be one of my favorite Audis, and a widebody avant with BCY power is a choice plucked from my daydreams. Good luck. As for the B7 swage Line, you don't need it. That bit of concavity and 'flair' would ultimately work against the understated, taut B6 design language.
 
DrStrange said:
In light of this, If you decide to change your mind or have time to visit a custom cooling company, i would look no further than a company named, 'SerckMotorsport' in Hayes next door to where I got my custom exhaust from;

http://www.serckservicesmotorsport.co.uk/

I was VERY impressed by their craftsmanship and know they can definitely build you a solution. After all they mainly focus in racing applications.

You probably wont explore the option but just an option for you.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link!

I will definitely look into this option, as I'm familiar with Hayes, I used to live there up until 2014.
 
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ninertriplezero said:
Nollywood, joining this forum (from across the pond, I gather) just to follow this thread, as you are building what for me is maybe the most exciting combination. The B6 is my first and will always be one of my favorite Audis, and a widebody avant with BCY power is a choice plucked from my daydreams. Good luck. As for the B7 swage Line, you don't need it. That bit of concavity and 'flair' would ultimately work against the understated, taut B6 design language.
Click to expand...

Thanks for following my thread, I appreciate your kind words.
 
I have been looking into filling options for the panel joins on the Audi.

I am currently leaning towards lead filling, though it is becoming increasingly harder to find any shop versed in this process. It's a true art, employed by real master craftsmen.

It calls for a lot of precautions, due to the poisonous nature of lead, so I can understand why not many shops practice lead filling these days.

In addition to this process, I am considering the newer method of attacking panels to the frame of a modern automobile - bonding. This can actually be stronger than traditional welding, and be lighter too. This applies to both spot and seam welding techniques. It also allows large surfaces to be attached, without the inherent risk of warping, which can be an issue when large sections are welded, with the wrong weld setting, or not allowing sufficient cooling time between welds.
 
Nollywood said:
I have been looking into filling options for the panel joins on the Audi.

I am currently leaning towards lead filling, though it is becoming increasingly harder to find any shop versed in this process. It's a true art, employed by real master craftsmen.

It calls for a lot of precautions, due to the poisonous nature of lead, so I can understand why not many shops practice lead filling these days.

In addition to this process, I am considering the newer method of attacking panels to the frame of a modern automobile - bonding. This can actually be stronger than traditional welding, and be lighter too. This applies to both spot and seam welding techniques. It also allows large surfaces to be attached, without the inherent risk of warping, which can be an issue when large sections are welded, with the wrong weld setting, or not allowing sufficient cooling time between welds.
Click to expand...

Would be hard to attach your panel by bonding I can see how it works on manufacturing new cars but how would you apply that to your situation? Maybe joggling the edge of the RS4 panels to sit under the existing bodywork?


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QuattroCalum said:
Would be hard to attach your panel by bonding I can see how it works on manufacturing new cars but how would you apply that to your situation? Maybe joggling the edge of the RS4 panels to sit under the existing bodywork?
Click to expand...

Bonding extra steel under the surrounding metalwork of the old cut sections, then bonding the RS4 steel to the same extra steel. Leaving a gap to allow for lead filling. So both the old and new steel would be at the same level.

These are mere thoughts, as I haven't started slicing yet.
 
Extra steel is going to add weight which is what you're trying to avoid using bonding.




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Last edited:
Audi started off their V6/V8 engines with plastic engine covers, and fairly rough valve covers. The valve covers didn't really need to be smooth, as they were effectively hidden by the plastic shrouds.

The C5 RS6 BCY engine is no exception, with the difference being the engine shrouds are carbon fibre, the larger section being the integral airbox.

It's interesting to see Audi have come back to exposed engines, with the valve covers being exposed. This has meant the valve covers themselves have become more attractive, smoother and easier to clean. The plastic engine shrouds first disappeared on the 3.0 V6 30V (ASN/BBJ) in the B6, and the 4.2 V8 40V (BFM) in the D3 A8.

With my last build, whereby I installed a V8 from a 2005 D3 A8 in my 2000 B5 A4 Quattro, I liked the clean, minimalist look of the motor. I was able to have the valve covers professionally painted in a shop, in the same color as my car.

With my current build, I am going with the same look. To this end, I have purchased the later 077-serie V8 (non-FSI) valve covers, with their matching timing belt covers. I have. Ordered the rear sections too. The timing belt covers will remain in their stock black, while the valve covers will be in the same color as the exterior of my car. Very similar in appearance to the valve covers of the B6 S4, but totally different in fitment. And, they are aluminium. I believe certain years of the B6 S4 valve covers were plastic, perhaps?

Pictures!



 
Regardless of whether it sounds American or not "This build is AWESOME" I think the engine covers keep some of the heat in which is detrimental to the coil packs which are already questionable at best, then again saying that I've only had 3 let go in over 12 years of 1.8t ownership, hmmm? :shrug:
 
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The shop that did my old B5 widebody, using OEM B5 RS4 panels, is snowed under with work, so is unable to take on my current project.

I have since found a shop local to me, that comes well recommended. I have looked at their paint jobs, and they're really good. I am dropping off my valve covers, to be painted in the color my exterior is going to be. This will give me a better measure of their finish, attention to detail etc.

My car will make its debut in one of the world's largest Audi events - Audi's In The Park, 2018.
 
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Recently, I've observed a light vibration when driving at speeds of 60mph or higher. I have replaced two tyres, but the vibration persists. Not on the steering, more like the whole rear, which has also began stepping out if the car runs over any sort of ruts.

Rear dampers are completely blown.

I've ordered a set ST Technix Sport gas dampers, and Vogtland 30mm lowering springs. These are just temporary measures. As I need to keep driving the car until tear down time, it needs to be safe for road use. The rear end is really twitchy, I can actually feel the rear wheels skip sideways, if I go over the slightest rut in the road whilst in a curve.

I guess I'll find out how seized the front upper arms pinch bolts are! I've been spraying them with PB Blaster for the past week, so fingers crossed.
 
You can remove the strut without touching the top arms. There are three bolts hidden under painted plastic caps in the inner wing area. Three 13 mm nuts releases the top of the strut.
That’s the way Passat B5.5 was set up so I’d like to think it would be the same.


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Thanks, Calum. It's been a while since I messed around with B5/6/7 front suspension.

The rear is a pig, though.
 
I haven’t touched Quattro rear end yet, I will have to soon though, one rear spring is broken so I’ll replace the whole set. Saw a post regarding rear springs and they were done using re useable industrial cable ties, I’ll see if I can find it.


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I've done the rear springs on a 2011 Seat Exeo Avant B7. I ended up undoing all the rear subframe bolts, and completely removing the bolts on each side I was replacing the springs on, then jacking it all back up. Put the bolts in a few turns, then repeated the same procedure on the other side.
 
Nollywood said:
I've done the rear springs on a 2011 Seat Exeo Avant B7. I ended up undoing all the rear subframe bolts, and completely removing the bolts on each side I was replacing the springs on, then jacking it all back up. Put the bolts in a few turns, then repeated the same procedure on the other side.
Click to expand...

Fwd though?


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Really don’t want to mess with the subframe if I can avoid it.


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It's pretty easy to do, really. It just sounds more daunting than it really is.
 
I had to drop Front subframe on the car but I found a perfect tool for alignment, have nothing for the rear. Is it easy to realign?


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As many may know, the most difficult aspect of boosting any Audi V8 40V motor is getting suitable exhaust manifolds that will accept snails. Of course, going the single turbo route is much easier - stock headers can be retained, with crossover pipes installed, terminating in the chosen turbo flange - V-band, T25, T4, T4 etc. This will locate the turbo at the rear of the engine, as in Euro V6 TDI engines.

I am not boosting a naturally-aspirated Audi 40V motor. I am working with an Audi V8 which is already blown - the Audi C5 RS6 (BCY) engine. The exhaust manifold issues are similar to boosting an Audi V8 40V naturally-aspirated engine, due to the fact I am not utilising the original C5 RS6 exhaust headers.

Whilst it could work, if I'm prepared to seriously rework them, or modify the B6 chassis to provide clearance, it will mean an engine pull each time a turbo service is required. This could be anything from replacing the turbos, to replacement of associated copper washers on the oil / coolant feed / return banjo connectors. I don't want to get into this. Also, the single turbo route is not for me.

I have managed to get turbo headers sorted out, I'll know by next week, if they will work.

Pictures will follow, I have also started repairing the Photobucket broken picture links / damage to previous postings.
 
Dampers arrived last week, and a set of Vogtland Sport springs were delivered this arvo.

Rear damper top mounts were delivered in my absense, or rather an attempt was made to deliver them. They will be with me tomorrow at some point.

CrSL8hW.jpg


gryXWzD.jpg


y9ddsBI.jpg
 
It has to be the biggest improvement you can do to a car, new springs and shocks, hope to be doing mine soon. I like Bilsteins but the paint is very thin on the rears though.
 
Billies are good.

These are temporary. Once the C5 RS6 engine and 01E 6-speed are installed, this suspension set-up will become redundant.

I'm going with adjustable coilovers, with separate reservoirs. Like Ohlins, or similar.
 
While I'm editing all the damage Photobucket left in its wake, as in restoring pictures on other fora, I've just realised I can't do the same here on ASN. There's no edit button after time has elapsed.

That sucks.
 
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