An interesting discussion arose yesterday, between myself and one of my buddies.
As many are aware, the C5 RS6 is the only 077-series V8 40V that runs a 10-bolt crank. It was designed strictly for automatic application, the RS6 uses the same huge torque converter as the W12 engines. The block is also pretty much RS6 / automatic-specific, with the rear mating flange being substantially larger than that of the N/A V8 077-series 40V.
My previous V8 swap (my 6th since I started these swaps in 2008) was with a 2004 D3 4.2 V8 40V. It was a massive learning curve for me, too. This block is again, automatic-specific, and the same issues when mating a C5 RS6 block to an 01E 6-speed manual gearbox, apply here, too. The BFM block is from the same cast as the C5 BCY block. I however had the rear of my BFM block drilled and machined to bolt up to an 01E...
Back to my current project. In the past, MTM have used the regular N/A 077-series V8 40V block, and it's 8-bolt crank to convert the C5 RS6 to manual. Before my last B5 V8 swap, I too would have taken this route. Indeed, this is what I suggested back in 2009, when folk realised how different the rear flange of a C5 RS6 block was to an 01E 6-speed manual gearbox...
So. last night, my buddy asked why I didn't simply build the C5 RS6 internals into a N/A 40V block, instead of just using the N/A 40V crank? After all, I do have a couple of 40V short engines, from C5's.
My answer is simple.
Torsional rigidity. It's a well known fact, that an engine block has to resist "twisting" whilst in service. The more torque an engine develops, especially from really low rpm, and the more load the crank and rods have to cope with (boost junkies, pay heed), the greater the stresses the block has to cope with. Manufacturers overcome this in different ways. Girdles, thicker block webbing, different block material.
The C5 RS6 block has thicker webbing than the N/A 40V block, making it substantially stiffer. The C5 RS6 bare block is also slightly heavier as a result. I will weigh both bare C5 RS6 and N/A blocks, and post the results.
Using a N/A 40V block will be easier, it's definitely a short cut to bolting on an 01E, but it's not for me. I do not wish to sacrifice torsional strength for ease of 01E fitment. So, BCY block will be retained. The C5 RS6 crank offers no strength advantage over a N/A 40V crank, which is great. I have a spare crank from a 2002 European C5 S6 (ANK) which I will be using.