Problems after turbo refit

Solberg said:
Ive been thaught its supposed to be 14,7, how can 13-14 be lean?

I am asking because I do not know but would like to know lol. :)
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because you have been told wrong. simples

example below is "stock" 1.8t S3 fuel requests... BAM (wideband) and APY (narrowband)
fuel-strategy-k04-apy-bam.JPG
 
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That looked greek to me :p

I know I need a remap, I just finished my last hardware upgrade this weekend that I needed to have before it was ready for map.... but I need to know why I am getting what I think is engine knock and insane lack of power at high rpm before I take it to a tuner.

I did a VCDS scan today and nothing nada came up.... tried running the knock test on the vcds but showed nothing.


I get it both when car is standing still and reving it, and in speed at high rpm. I have told you guys I have plenty of oil in both intake hose (between MAF and turbo) and also from turbo to intakemanifold. This could come from a "full PCV" or something? I know nothing about this oil breather or pcv or whatever you call it so I have no idea where to look or what to change, but getting some tips where and what too look for I will probably manage it :)
 
Another question I have is if a tuner NEEDS an MBC or can I plumb everything up like OEM (vacuum, n75 etc) and the tuner can sett the right boost via mapping with computer/chip?

When my car is getting mapped I have abs no need to do adjustments on my own, I just want it to run safe and according to a map.
 
pretty sure most decent mapper's don't use an MBC - mine was fitted as an old fashioned extra power boost instead of the N75 - rather than a safe map. yours appeared to be to lower the boost pressure to get around some mapping issue.

good luck with your mapping - I need to get my FMIC fitted prior to any stage 2 mapping.
 
Yeh..When i Bought mine it had MBC but it was only set to 0,5 bar. Mbc was in paralel with n75. No idea if it was beeing used with map, but I know my car was mapped to 1,1 bar.

Dont really want an mbc, i just want to put the key in and car to drive with everything in tip top not having to adjust shait.


What is safe boost pressure anyways? If 1,1 bar only gave 265whp on mine....and badger said 1,8 bar would melt my engine.... i guess i would not see much more improvment with my franken?


My brother had an Seat ibiza cupra before my s3, with stock 1,8t 150bhp engine, fmic and a "standard" chip, it was boosting 1,7 bar for ages and it was FAST as hell, my s3 is nothing compared lol.
 
you need to find source of your oil..
its breather system and pipework full of oil and/or turbo blowing it out.

remove oil breather from intake pipe and clean ALL pipes out, and see what oil returns.. If it returns and breathers not in TIP its turbo.
 
badger5 said:
you need to find source of your oil..
its breather system and pipework full of oil and/or turbo blowing it out.

remove oil breather from intake pipe and clean ALL pipes out, and see what oil returns.. If it returns and breathers not in TIP its turbo.
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Agreed, thanks for the tip.

Do you sell upgraded silicone TIP for my engine? 99mod APY without esp?

I also spoke with a tuner nearby, he thought a map would take 1-2 days on my car with a price estimate of 700-900 GBP. But I remembered the guy I bought my S3 from said that on 99 mod S3 you cannot flash over the map, so they had to solder in the map/chip. Can anyone confirm this because my tuner would need to know if he had to "burn" out my eeprom. (lol greek to me again). If he had to do it that way he would need hel from other tuner colleagues and it would take even longer and cost more blabla.
 
Solberg said:
Yeh..When i Bought mine it had MBC but it was only set to 0,5 bar. Mbc was in paralel with n75. No idea if it was beeing used with map, but I know my car was mapped to 1,1 bar.

My brother had an Seat ibiza cupra before my s3, with stock 1,8t 150bhp engine, fmic and a "standard" chip, it was boosting 1,7 bar for ages and it was FAST as hell, my s3 is nothing compared lol.
Click to expand...

Obviously, you need to sort out your other issues but 1.1 isn't much of a map I think standard is 14 PSI (1 bar) - Stage 1 Map is usually around 20-21 psi (1.5 bar) - unless the Francken23 turbo is different.

Hopefully a decent mapper will resolve the issues allowing you to use the N75 instead of the strange array you have reducing the power - I don't think that a new map increases the boost pressure anymore but instead adjusts the mixture after the in and out and cooling improvements. <-- clearly more complicated than this.
 
Stage 1 isn't 1.5bar... 1.2bar is the norm... 1.5bar is MAP sensor limit

<tuffty/>
 
Solberg said:
Agreed, thanks for the tip.

Do you sell upgraded silicone TIP for my engine? 99mod APY without esp?

I also spoke with a tuner nearby, he thought a map would take 1-2 days on my car with a price estimate of 700-900 GBP. But I remembered the guy I bought my S3 from said that on 99 mod S3 you cannot flash over the map, so they had to solder in the map/chip. Can anyone confirm this because my tuner would need to know if he had to "burn" out my eeprom. (lol greek to me again). If he had to do it that way he would need hel from other tuner colleagues and it would take even longer and cost more blabla.
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APY is flashable. no need for "chip" unless ones already been fitted previously
 
Just a thought, on the LHD S3 does the badger5 TIP fit properly? I think I remember some guys on the continent having difficulties. Not trying to **** on anyone's fire, just thought I'd mention as a heads up.
 
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V3 with some trimming has been fitted by soem folks with lhd.. BUT the brake pipes from master cylinder will push into the side of it. It is after all 80mm bore.. so large.

Customer supplied pictures below. I believe he trimmed some off the turbo end to get it closer to turbo and away from brake pipes.

tip-v3-lhd-1.jpg

tip-v3-lhd-2.jpg
 
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:) yes its a tight fit but it fits. And right you are Bill a bit of trimming at the turbo side was needed. Maybe could have done a bit more i think but i did manage to get it in there. You will soon get to see for yourself.
 
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Any guidance here? Still got missfire/engineknock. Clicking sound from engine when on high revs, both while driving and when i stand still just revving engine in neutral. Instant powerloss and rpm stalls when this occours, Ive also had the car going into limp mode 2 times I belive from this problem while doing WOT. We have talked about oil in my charge pipe, but that oil has been there since I bought the car so I belive it is not the problem even tho I do understand it could affect octane rating some, I also cleaned my MAF, and tried filling a bottle with octane "booster" on almost empty tank with no results.

Tried logging MAF in VCDS while running car, I got readings all the way up to 318g or something and sometimes it would just show "error" instead of g/s.



17746 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P1338 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

17743 - Engine Torque Monitor 2
P1335 - 35-10 - Control Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 35-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
 
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Thanks for reply as always tufty!

My honey is parked for the winter, getting things in ship shape. Maf is getting changed so that is okay. About the cam thing... could the belt have slipped a tooth? What would be the symptoms? Since it is not always stuttering, it kind of comes and goes randomly when it occurs.
 
Solberg said:
Thanks for reply as always tufty!

My honey is parked for the winter, getting things in ship shape. Maf is getting changed so that is okay. About the cam thing... could the belt have slipped a tooth? What would be the symptoms? Since it is not always stuttering, it kind of comes and goes randomly when it occurs.
Click to expand...
Won't be the cam belt... that gives an incorrect correlation error..

I am assuming your cam position sensor is plugged in and working...

Have you had any head work done where the cams have been out, cam tensioner changed or something?

<tuffty/>
 
Hmm I see... not checked the sensor yet, not sure where it is either.

I know pre owner did some work on the head last year when engine was built, only trace Ive got from that is that the top is marked AJL while my engine is APY from factory and a un-noted receipt from an engine technician company. Got some rassling sound coming from my timing belt area aswell when car is on idle.
 
Rattling could be the tensioner damper (or the cam position sensor could actually be lose lol)...

If its had a new head and this fault code has been there a while then it entirely plausible they could have timed the cams wrong which won't be helping your issues

<tuffty/>
 
Actually the camshaft sensor code came up just recently, the top work was probably like 35k km ago.
The only codes that have been consistent since I got trouble with missfire/knock and overboost after taking out/in turbo and mounting 3" DP is the other two codes (torque limit and maf signal low).

I need a beer.
 
318 g/s from you MAF is potentially 397BHP ? ( 318 / 0.8 )
 
S3 MAF sensor (when working correctly and scaled properly) will only register 292gs max on wideband and a bit lower (can't remember the exact figure) on narrowband sensors... the 318 you are seeing is clearly an error thats supported by the other codes you are getting and quite frankly could well be the cause of the issues you are experiencing..

New (genuine) MAF sensor would be on top of the to do list...

<tuffty/>
 
Tried another MAF yesterday, not bosch and think it was a little bit kurwa scheise aswell, but it looked clean as mine is very greasy from wd40 on filter. Anyways this MAF made stuttering hella worse, it now started as low as around 2000 rpm so could not get any rpm with it. Where can I buy a genuine 76mm/3" (bosch?) MAF cheapest?


And another thing, when I bought my car I had INSANE gear change flames coming out my tailpipe, when friends was driving behind me and I changed gears on redline they would call me up on my cell and "SHIIIIIT", could hear it loud even with radio on, was good times. This has gone completely as well after I got all these problems. Can someone explain what happens when you get flames? Is it when running very rich or what?
 
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Solberg said:
But too rich
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Yes...

Solberg said:
Is this what I want?
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Don't know from that tbh as the compatibility thing suggests its for all S3's but APY will be different to AMK/BAM and not compatible..

Couldn't say on the part number either as its a Bosch number for the unit rather than the reference for the sensor itself...

Do you not have an Audi dealer over there?

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Yes...



Don't know from that tbh as the compatibility thing suggests its for all S3's but APY will be different to AMK/BAM and not compatible..

Couldn't say on the part number either as its a Bosch number for the unit rather than the reference for the sensor itself...

Do you not have an Audi dealer over there?

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Yeah my brother works at one...and he says they are prolly around 2-300 GBP.
Maybe I should just buy a piggy back instead lol.
 
17743 - Engine Torque Monitor 2
P1335 - 35-10 - Control Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Normally comes from bad mapping and it causes the engine to cut out and take the throttle away till you restart
 
audi upgrades
Im really sad now, had the S3 out for a quick drive to meet some friends when some total maniac idiot went all-in on the icy roads and span 360 deg around with his car and straight into my drivers side, I stood almost still but i guess he hit me in 50kmh ish. Got a BIG hole in drivers door, and a small hole on the rear fender or whatever you call it, front bumber is also damaged, skirts are destroyed. Doors and bumper is easy fix but with the hole in the rear fender I have a fear my car is getting condemned :( :( Car even feels like its driving on 2 wheels, while its jumping side to side on the 2 other wheels.... so I guess its RIP.
 
Not sure yet. Hopefully I would get at least "list price" on the car which is 8000 gbp ish. But that dont do up NEARLY as to what it cost to build the car like it is now, you could double the price to 16k i guess. And not to say all hours spent, wont ever get that back again. **** I feel like I want to assassinate that guy right now.

My dream is broken, spent like one year, hours a day looking for the right car, and then kaboom when you finally have it and all plans is set. I need a hug lol...
 
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I had already ordered a brand new OEM MAF from my local audi worskop but I aborted it as my car now is wrecked. With a hole in my rear fender I am pretty sure the insurance company will just give me me money for the car compared to what the current list price is for S3 8L. And then they get to keep the car... with miltek exhaust, downpipe, franken turbo, movit/porsche 993 turbo brakes, chinafold, 3" TIP, 550cc injectors, new coils, n75, new lambdas, engine worth of 3-4000gbp, 1 year old, kw variant 2 coilovers, rota wheels blabla. Things I wont get refund for.

Will be a big loss for me so if they take the car I will save up the money to buy a house instead and build a nice isolated double garage with heat, lift, tools and it all.
 
Why no buy it back of the insurance and use it as a parts car for a new s3. Their only going to sell it to someone else anyway or buy it back and part it out make your money back that way
 
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Insurance Companies in the UK really push for this "salvage" buy back
 
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