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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Prawn, Dec 29, 2010.
I wish! Bloody thing has cleaned me out. but it's back, and that's all that matters!
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had that been at a racing circuit, racing the marshalls/scruitineer would have cut them there and then to force them to be replaced.
you never know until you need them of course... doh!
It Lives!!! well done prawny. Hope to see it on track soon
Scanned the car tonight, Crank sensor intermittent fail, as I thought.
Whipped the sensor off the spare engine, then got bored and went for a drive instead.
25 minutes of thrashing and it was fine, I've taken it up to 'some' speed and all feels great. Handling feels wonderfully sharp too. New seats and wheel make for supreme comfort. Couldn't be happier
That's really great news. I take my hat of to you for getting it all sorted so quickly great job.
Nice work as always mate! How are you finding the V3's?
not got them on yet matey, still running on a bent Weitec at the moment! argh.
Ben has very kindly offered to help out with sorting the Weitecs for me, so they'll be sorted first, then if this offer on the V3's comes off I'll keep hold of the weitecs as well i think. can never have too many parts
Pointless pictures time:
Spare crank sensor whipped off the spare engine:
Not fitted it yet, as it's been fine since that evening. most odd!
Feels SO good to be back out on the road in this again:
65 mile drive to work, loaded right up with 4 tyres and a full trackdays worth of gear in the back, and she didn't miss a beat:
I actually think it looks hard as nails with the satin bumper! Pretty keen on doing the paintwork myself now, just need to find somewhere to do it after the quarter is sorted of course.
Whilst I like the idea of it, I think I love my volcano black too much to paint it satin/gloss black permanently!
Your doing a trackday with a bent shock?!
It's only 'slightly' bent
V3's very nice, if only I had the money. I think I'll be get the Wietec's. Who are you getting to set them up our are you doing it yourself?
65 miles to work! I thought my 50 mile drive to work was bad
I look forward to a Goodwood write up.
Bloody crank sensor **** out on me again. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
Drove to work just fine, just nipped into town and back on my lunch break, backing into a parking space at work and it just died again.
Must replace this evening before trackday!
Oh I thought you had replaced it!
I was going to, but then it worked so I didn't bother. haha. my fail.
Also found this morning on my test drive down that the exhaust was knocking, investigated at lunch the the rear hanger has snapped in the accident.
Got a Hanger, crank sensor, and some BKR7E copper plugs waiting for my at Camberly Autofactors in Chichester 20 mins away, so I'll fit them this evening before tomorrows trackday
Had a good day out and got to chatch up with nick and meet his dad some of the northloop boys at goodwood today. Car wearing its scars well and when running, going well!! Pictures
Love the Imp kicking it's front wheel up.... always had a softspot for them
F-ing thing is broken again. Driveshaft fail, which has ruined the inner CV, gearbox output flange, and quite possibly the box casing too.
Will investigate tomorrow. Right now I need more beer.
you should've just come to AITP.
Ah man, if you need a hand give me a shout! Not about tomorrow tho!
Thanks buddy, but I don't need help, I just need more beer!
Looking under it again it seems to have stopped leaking. Hoping that the fluid loss is just down to the flange being wrenched around. it drove back smoothly, so lets hope the diff and bearings are OK. Will drop a new flange and shaft on it tomorrow night if I get the time and see how it goes.
No updates, just frustration!
All that work, all that money after the crash, and it's broken again
No real time to fix it, sat in my office getting thoroughly pissed off about the whole thing.
What's wrong now bud?
See post 2219
Bad times man.
if it's just a flange, cv, and shaft I won't be too bothered, as it's an hours work, but IF the box casing is split causing the trans leak I think it'll get parked up for a long while, as I just don't have the time to go pulling boxes out at the moment.
Was running SO well too, I changed from a the J valve to a standard N75 on Saturday, thinking the J had failled (which later turned out to be a wiring issue), and I think I prefer the delivery on the standard valve, even though Niki mapped it on a J valve.
You could always sell some of your track wheels if the cars going to sit and you need funds
legacy of the crash prawny?
Possibly Bill, I'm not sure.
On the old 100mm flanges I used to suffer from destroying inner CV's and bolts coming loose all the time. I changed to 108mm flanges at the start of this year and it's been good as gold.
Nearside shaft was damaged on the crash and I replaced the whole thing and both CV's. usually I thread lock the driveshaft bolts but I didn't this time as I was in a hurry to get it going, and they've worked loose after about 200 miles.
Thank god it didn't happen at 130+ on track as I'm pretty certain it'd have ripped the box casing to shreds!
I'm just a bit worried now about the effect the shaft could have had on the diff bearings, it's obviously wrenched the output flange around loads for fluid to escape past the seals, so I can only imagine the diff has gone through the same torture!
hmmm. I changed my 100mm output shafts to 12:9 cap bolts and nords to make sure they stayed in tight...
that's a bloody good idea Bill, I hadn't thought of using Nords on the Driveshafts. I think I'll do that when I reassemble! Might also change to a conventional bolt rather than allen bolt to make it easier to crank them up tight.
wouldnt have thaught there would be room to get a standard hex head bolt in there, and TBH the internal hex fitting on a proper cap head bolt is big enough to take the bolts maximum tightening torque anyway.
You want them set to the correct torque, simply "cranking them up" will only result in them coming loose again as you've overtightened them and stretched the bolts.
Also bear in mind if you change the bolt specification, the torque will differ from the OEM settings. Look it up in a databook and use the appropriate torque for the bolt grade you've chosen.
Interesting thoughts Kev,
I'll be honest, I've never done them up to a specified torque, with their tendancy to come undone I've always just done them FT!
FT is the torque setting of choice for most non engine related bolts
I'll admit i've done the same, but the usual reason for bolts coming loose is incorrect torquing.
Bear in mind they managed to stay tight for about 10 years when Audi fitted them originally
Given they're fairly small bolts, its likely very easy to overtighten them and ruin the bolt.
New bolts, torqued to Audi's specs, should stay put.
Just been to my local nuts and bolts place to pick up the above.
Annoyingly, 12x 12.9 25mm cap head bolts and 12x 10mm Nordlock washers, cost almost exactly HALF what I paid for a full set of genuine audi **** bolts at TPS back in January!
If only I'd have known back then!
New shaft should arrive tomorrow, got a new gearbox seal to go in, will try and jack the car up on one side only so I don't lose too much fluid, then top the fluid back up once I'm done
Meh. Turns out that when the flange came off, it cut through the gearbox casing like butter:
So, that's gearbox number 6 done. Lets hope number 7 does a bit better.
I can't be bothered with changing ANOTHER box only to pull it out again soon, so I've decided to take the plunge, and bring engine plans forward as well.
Yesterday I picked up a new oil pump, new water pump, cambelt tensioner damper, and piston rings.
Today I started pulling the engine out
more pics tomorrow
Hopefully no shrapnel has gone round the diff ring gear/damaged the diff.
What's the plans for the motor? Upgrades or just a refresh?
Diff should be OK, it's survived far worse! this is the 3rd box it's been in during death so another can't hurt.
Got a new low mileage box that'll all be rebuilt and the diff fitted wih new seals and bearings.
New low mileage engine I've got is having rifled drilled rods, new rings, bores honed, new shells, and a baffled sump of some sort, so standard but refreshed apart from the Rods, which will be more than enough for my needs. It's already large port and higher compression, so at a great advantage compared to the S3 lumps.