Passenger door lock / microswitch problem

[Lowfield]

So a while ago i had problems with flashing interior lights and indicator issues with a clicking relay also. I found 2 faults by process of elimination. First a stop and tail light was rammed into the rear ns indicator fitting and second the front ns indicator holder was fubar.
Yesterday i got into and started the car after work and unusual for me opened the passenger door to let a fly out.
Wish i hadnt.
The dreaded 3 second interior light flash. No door open signal on the dis and the click click click of the relay somewhere infront of me.
With the engine and ignition off the interior light goes back to nornal and the rapid relay click goes to a 10 sec click.
No damp under carpet, cl pump dry and clean pollen filter correct, drain grommets removed last year but bulkhead dry anyway.
I guess the issue could be narrowed down to the lock itself. Strange and may only be a coincidence but the pass front door needs a firm slam to engage full closure. Lock and latch are both positioned identical to drivers side though.

Micro switch ?

Here is a spare lock from my s4 breaker



I take it the micro switch is at 3 oclock on the picture.

Had a play at trying to remove it but i am a bit of a bull in a china shop and dont want to break it esp if it is easier to swap out the whole unit.

Any advice guys. Am i barking up the wrong tree with this?

 

[aragorn]

I've heard this before but i cant remember the cause.

 

[Bbflex]

Iirc you lock the lock, so put a screwdriver into the bit the door pin usually goes, push the locking mech right round so it's in the fully locked position, this then allows you to pull the leaver that's in you way over enough the you can wiggle the micro switch out, you still have to wiggle the microswitch out past the leaver but it will come out, they are sided but they will go in either lock, iirc you need to swap the outside terminal to the opposite side

It is the thing at the 3 o clock position.

 

[Lowfield]

Cheers fella. Yes bit of wiggling and out. Now for the easy bit. Swapping it out for the one IN the door

 

[Bbflex]

Just remember when putting the one back in you have to push the metal spring of the switch up otherwise you'll catch it on the lock, you'll see what I mean when your putting it in.

 

[Lowfield]

Right then.
Just swapped the switch over. Had to take the door frame out and the plastic cover which covers the lock mechanism to swap. Not sure about the metal spring part, it wrnt in fine.

So.

Exactly same symptoms except this time my outer door handle needs pushing back down after opening ... ******.

Any more ideas please

 

[aragorn]

if i were to guess, i'd be pointing the finger at the CL pump.

 

[Bbflex]

Bad memory on my part, it was the plastic part of the switch, it needed to be pushed up to go over the bit that activates the switch.

 

[Lowfield]

Ahh i see.

So vagcom out

Couple of fault codes

Cv pump. Alarm. RC D17
1 fault found
01366 opened due to crash signal
35-00--

Cleared but come back

And
Engine
1 fault found
17978 Engine start blocked by imobilizer
P1570-35-10-- intermittent.

The car sometimes cuts out after starting when hot if dont wait for car symbol on cluster to go out .. so assume that is the code.

Cleared this code and not returned but not tried startung when hot

 

[aragorn]

you probably wont get a fault code. Might be worth opening the pump up and examining the PCB for corrosion damage.

 

[Lowfield]

This is the pump



This is the board



I have an issue with front offside sidelight. If i fiddle with connector it comes on. When i shut bonnet off it goes. You dont think it could be connected?

 

[Lowfield]

Sidelight fixed. Problem still persists. Probably a damaged wire somewhere. Checked between door and pillar and behind doorcard which means ..... gonna live with it for now.

 

[Greig300]

I had a similar issue to you. Opened passenger door the Interior lights would pulsate on/off with relay clicking I Changed the door latch with inbuilt micro sensor (brand new latch from dealer) didn't cure my issue. I then went and got another vacuum pump thinking the built in board was corroded....Same issue. I then Checked the wiring between A pillar and door Same issue. I decided to take the car to A for Audi specialist in Glasgow....The wiring behind the door card was corroded so it Had it to be rewired. They gave me the Option for new wiring loom at the time for the door but would increase costs... so decided just to get it repaired by them. Issue fixed.

 

[Lowfield]

Thats interesting. As i have obviously cocked up putting my door frame/card back ie sticking outer door handle i think i'll take it apart again and have a better nosey. All the wiring to the latch was lagged though i'm sure. Cheers for that pal.