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Parts advice please.

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by handy andy, Nov 26, 2010.

  1. handy andy
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    handy andy Member

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    Hi All,

    I'm currently experiencing some clutch slip when boosting.So i'm thinking it's time to replace the clutch in my S3.

    What i'd like is some advice as to where to get the complete kit + dual mass flywheel at a competative price. I'd probably look at staying with the standard set up as the car only been mildly tuned...AMD stage 1 map.

    Sachs or LUK?

    Any help would be great.Thanks in advance Andy
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2010
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  3. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    LuK from GSF :thumbsup:

    <tuffty/>
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  4. handy andy
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    handy andy Member

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    Thanks fella.Any idea on price before i give them a call?

    Cheers
    Andy
    #3
  5. DaveA3
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    DaveA3 Audi A-Trizzle!

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    s3 or a3 btw?
    #4
  6. handy andy
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    handy andy Member

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    Oops....S3.

    I've ammended the original post.

    Thanks.
    #5
  7. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    About £90 ish for the clutch and just over £200 for the DMF plus VAT when I got mine...

    <tuffty/>
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  8. handy andy
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    handy andy Member

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    Thanks again Tuffty...I've just called GSF the current prices are..clutch kit-£100 + VAT Dual mass flywheel-£240 + VAT.

    I just need to find someone to do it now?
    #7
  9. finesse
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    finesse Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    yeah, I heard its a pig of a job,
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  10. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 26, 2010]
    With the forum name 'handy andy' then it should be a doddle ;P

    Its not a small job... you will hear varying stories from 4 hours to 12 hours being quoted... mine took me (and a great mate) a day of casually fiddling to get done... I did have the benefit of a ramp and a workshop mind...

    its prob around 6 to 8 hours for most peeps.... just so much to undo and remove before you even get to the thing...

    <tuffty/>
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  11. fingermouse
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    fingermouse thats me

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    [Nov 27, 2010]
    don`t forget the slave cylinder
    #10
  12. Delaney1
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    Delaney1 New Member

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    [Nov 27, 2010]
    have u got 2 replace the dmf with the clutch ?
    #11
  13. handy andy
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    handy andy Member

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    [Nov 27, 2010]
    As far is aware the slave cylinder is included in the clutch kit.

    With regards to the DMF i think that for the extra money it's worth doing for piece of mind.I'm a bit surprised my clutch is slipping at 69k.
    To be honest i could do without it before Christmas.
    #12
  14. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 27, 2010]
    Concentric slave is a separate item and you will to buy that as well really... mine was about £24 IIRC...

    [​IMG]

    You don't have too but if its worn then budget for one and tbh if you know it hasn't been done in the lifetime of the car then its worth replacing while its all out...

    You would be advised to replace the flywheel bolts too... I bought both flywheel (they are stretch bolts)and clutch bolts from Audi when I did mine... not that expensive IIRC and as its a pig of a job its worth doing right the first time...

    <tuffty/>
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  15. fingermouse
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    fingermouse thats me

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    [Nov 27, 2010]
    mine started slipping again when I booted it on the motorway, strange thing is it only seems to do it in the winter its been fine all summer.

    Revs rise then settle/ speed catches up. no lights on so its not spinning the wheels will have to give it a try with esp off just wasn`t expecting it the other night.

    might have to plump for a clutch im the new year but might go sachs as im keeping the car a long time and don`t want to have to do it again if I can help it, If you don`t mind me asking tuffty how much was all that above ???
    #14
  16. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 27, 2010]
    LuK clutch was £90+vat
    LuK DMF was £200+vat (got a good deal on that)
    LuK slave was £24+vat
    Sachs clutch plate was around £250+vat IIRC, can't remember exactly as I just asked Bill to order it and charge my card lol.... could have cost eleventy billion quid (thanks Mark, I use that phrase all the bloody time now!) for all I know lol

    Expensive but works for me and I have done a couple of launches (spinning all 4 wheels) with no adverse effects on the clutch (so far)...

    Some 'performance' clutch kits cost similar money without the DMF and slave... DMF from Audi will set you back around £550 iirc and is the same part as the LuK one I have as LuK supply VAG..

    <tuffty/>
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  17. handy andy
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    handy andy Member

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    [Nov 27, 2010]
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  18. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 27, 2010]
    Plausible but clutches on S3's wear... quickly... especially if remapped... couple of launches too will cook the plate... they are made of cheese...

    I bought my S3 with 83k on the clock... according to the paperwork she had a new clutch around 60 or 70k (can't remember without looking) My old clutch wasn't slipping but I could catch it out if I pulled away a bit smartish from a junction...

    My old clutch...
    [​IMG]

    The new one...
    [​IMG]

    ...and the old DMF...
    [​IMG]

    ...vs the new one...
    [​IMG]

    They do just go, there is a lot of torque to deal with especially when remapped and the S3 is a heavy car with a lot of grip...

    <tuffty/>
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  19. fingermouse
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    fingermouse thats me

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    [Nov 28, 2010]
    bah confusing myself now must be a sunday morning thing after beer then kids got me up at crack of dawn :(

    I get the DMF, luk clutch and release bearing but where does the sachs clutch plate fit in ??? Does it replace part of the luk clutch ???

    been a while since I did a clutch tbh done a couple of fords and a honda crx but must be 10 years since lol
    #18
  20. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 28, 2010]
    Use the Sachs plate instead of the LuK one... basically you only need the cover plate from the clutch kit... its the paddle plate that gives you the better bite... std cover plate handles the torque ok...

    <tuffty/>
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  21. fingermouse
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    fingermouse thats me

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    [Nov 28, 2010]
    ah ok so I was thinking right , just doesn`t seem logical that the cross is better than the disc. I know the materials will be different but seems like less is more lol
    #20
  22. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 28, 2010]
    It is when you have a ring of cheese on the OEM plate vs pucks of proper friction material (lot of metal) on the Sachs..

    <tuffty/>
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  23. Mpathe
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    Mpathe 1st gear

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    [Nov 28, 2010]
    i changed my clutch at about 86000 miles now at 110 000 miles and gone from std to stage 2 i thought i would never have to change it again but after removing the haldex fuse to have some fun it started slipping in 3rd to my horror so i put the fuse stright back in. looks like i'll be buying a new one soon.

    tuffy - what clutch do you recommend for my car?
    #22
  24. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 28, 2010]
    ...a new one :)

    but seriously... tbh, no idea... the setup I have was recommended to me by a guy from SCN who uses it on high power TT... it works for me so far is all I can say...

    the OEM clutch should be good enough for most people but they aren't really designed for 'spirited' driving such as harsh gear changes and launches especially for quattros... my setup appears to be working ok... I have launched a couple of times with no adverse effect... I have no idea how long the clutch will last, I don't drive like a stole it but I needed a clutch that would give me a bit more confidence when I did and so far its lived up to expectations...

    I can't really recommend anything tbh as I don't have enough experience in what does or doesn't work other than what I am currently running and what was left of my OEM clutch.

    The principle behind my clutch is this... the DMF and cover plate are the same as the clutch I had in there before so I know that will work... the clutch plate is the thing that provides the grip between the two so by going for a grippier plate I (in theory at least) I get a clutch that operates the same as the OEM (it's very light, good for town driving) will hold the power and torque (as the OEM would when new) but give me better performance and confidence in 'launching' the car without toataly nuking the clutch plate... using the OEM DMF and cover plate also makes the take up smoother than with a SMF and stiffer cover plate...

    I guess we will see how long it all lasts, a little while I hope ;P

    <tuffty/>
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  25. fingermouse
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    fingermouse thats me

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    [Nov 29, 2010]
    might go for the same ish set up , mine seems to be getting worst it slipped in 6th tonight as I accelerated on the motoway.

    Just seems strange that mine was iffy last winter then semt ok all summer then is iffy again with the cold weather.

    Mind you it has only done 2.5k since last winter :)
    #24

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