okay so another downpipe thread.. tut

[Stuart B]

Thanks Karl, I will try and find out - I assume that exhaust is "v-band"?

Tom93 - Thanks I bought a set including E14 and E16 - but I also bought a set of torx male for the head bolts but the bolts seem to be between 50 and 55 which I didn't get in my set.

 

[superkarl]

Thanks Karl, I will try and find out - I assume that exhaust is "v-band"?

Tom93 - Thanks I bought a set including E14 and E16 - but I also bought a set of torx male for the head bolts but the bolts seem to be between 50 and 55 which I didn't get in my set.

Yes that adapter is V-band.

I just don't think the radius of that top bend is sharp enough for RHD, especially when compared to known fitting 1 piece downpipes which are already very tight fitting with a very tight radius.

 

[Chris90]

Stock head bolts are a M10 ribe. Never heard of any torx head bolts on a VW before.

 

[Stuart B]

Hi Chris, thanks so no they are not TORX I assumed they were when they arrived I did think the edges looked a lot squarer than the torx and torx usually are a bit tapered, I will get the correct socket.

Thanks Karl - I am in no real hurry now so will make sure I take my time and get the correct part.

 

[Alex C]

@S3AMJ was looking at that downpipe and i think he asked about the fitment; suspect he never got a response from the seller, I didn't get a response from the seller either

 

[S3AMJ]

@S3AMJ was looking at that downpipe and i think he asked about the fitment; suspect he never got a response from the seller, I didn't get a response from the seller either

Yeah I never heard back from them, tried through eBay and there official website. Loose end on that front. I suspect like Karl has mentioned it probably won't fit. Shame though, the design looks like it'd make it an easier fitment.

 

[Stuart B]

so it is an E16 not E14 for the manifold to turbo, but one of those bolts is not undoing and the socket is rising up the bolt head when trying to undo. I suppose an impact driver is the next option. I don't have one of those so it will add to my collection of Audi S3 tools.

just slowly going to take the head off, inlet manifold today.

also no reply from the seller either, I will wait until I get the head off incase the exhaust manifold is cracked too.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Use heat.... blow torch or similar on the bolt... don't use an impact gun on it else the next thing you'll be doing is drilling it out...

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

Hi,

yeah I am drilling it out about 95% through with some Bosch x pro HSS-R drill bits until it was too dark, I have the rest of the head ready to remove and will hopefully (fingers crossed) leave 15-20mm of stud remaining to use an old school stud remover and lots of plusgas, I even broke my Bergen rounded bolt bit and bruised my fingers on the cams at the same time trying to turn it.

I actually think the problem on that particular bolt is more it's location, I don't think the 1/2 inch E16 Bit I bought sat perfectly flat due to the shape of the manifold and therefore rose and rounded the edges when under torque as the other 2 undid easily with nothing more than a squeak.

I still haven't bought a downpipe, Karl and others said that this is likely LHD due to the radius of the curve from turbo even though it looks worth the extra money. I can see a massive difference between that and known good fitting PipeWerx downpipes.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252112062648

considering this with a 100 cpsi CAT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201531858999

 

[Stuart B]

so I have read a lot on here and pipewerx is the likely best route along with a new dog bone (new bushes) or poly bush the existing old dog bone.

they are for sale with the sports cat for £450 with a 2 year guarantee - it has to be the right option assuming I don't need a new manifold too.

 

[Stuart B]

Okay so a brief update, finally drilled off the manifold to turbo bolt head, removed the head clear and put some card over the engine to stop bits going into the block, removed the remaining stud from turbo hotside and the remaining part of the downpipe and sensor, I managed to get the exhaust studs out too.

am starting to clean up the head in the conservatory with swarfager jizzer.

I was going to put Mr Muscle oven cleaner into the hot side of the turbo and noticed an obvious crack.

some a couple of questions

1. what can I clean the head with without causing any damage to valves etc?

2. do I need a new turbo or do I just bolt it back together again with this crack <-- I know these cracks are common.

Still waiting for my 3 inch downpipe and dogbone bushes to arrive.

Thanks for any Advice

 

[Stuart B]

So with Head off, I can see some damage this is from where the spark plug ceramic broke off a plug when I first bought the car. somehow I have similar damage on cylinder 1 and 2? not sure how the ceramic hopped across?

I am wondering whether it would be easier to change the timing belt (lower part only obviously) with the head still off, just for access reasons regarding shuffling around the engine mounts?

Also does anyone know why the Haynes manual coolant pump renewal is 4 spanners? is it really that difficult or just because you need to remove the timing belt at the same time?

Thanks

 

[shaunevo6]

That head is scrap

 

[Stuart B]

I think you are right - it has been running okay since October though, my concern is the matching dinks in the top of the pistons.

Do you reckon a skim would improve this, or just introduce other issues?

 

[shaunevo6]

A skim wont improve that chunk missing unfortunately. Yikes your in abit of a mess with that engine dude.

Your in deep now, bite the bullet Stuart get an engine built properly and get one of Bills k04-380 turbo's bolted on. It will solve all of those issues you have and start enjoying the car

 

[Stuart B]

I understand what you are saying maybe if it gets through the MOT, I will look to invest in it a bit more (no point in spending bundles if it is not structurally sound) - I have never known so many problems on a single car - I used to think my T25 camper had a mind of its own but at least it helped us out, this just blocks the driveway.

 

[Chris90]

I bet JP at JNL Racing could easily fix that head.

 

[Stuart B]

hmm that is interesting I am not far from Hertfordshire?

A new cylinder head is £300-£500

I wonder whether it is worth a call and sending the photos?

 

[Stuart B]

well it is slow going but I have my beautiful fat pipe on after some trimming (the hanger and about 2 inches off the pipe) I love my angle grinder

also fitted the yellow poly bushed dog bone (painted blue) too, needed to trim one of those long 13mm bolts as it somehow started to cross thread on the side which also clamps the oil pipes