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Oil Level sensor Problem

Discussion in 'VCDS (formerly VAG-COM) forum' started by highflyer, Aug 27, 2012.

  1. highflyer
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    highflyer New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2012]
    [HR][/HR]Hi, I have a problem with my UK A5 3.0 TDI quattro sport, I have owned the car since new, now has 47,000 miles, it is out of warranty.
    About 6 weeks ago, I was cruising along when an error warning appeared on the dash display, it said "oil level sensor defective" it went out then a yellow symbol of an oil can appeared with the word sensor underneath. I stopped immediately and checked under the bonnet, all looked well,oil level on dipstick was perfect.
    Managed to drive home 50 miles with oil sensor symbol showing. When i had a proper look, the drive belt had frayed/split and was fllailing around. Took car to local garage, diagnosis was that the tensioner had failed, causing the belt to go slack, this then shredded and ripped the wiring harness (3 wires) to the oil level sensor in the sump in half.
    The garage fitted a new belt,tensioner and pulleys, they rejoined the wires (soldered) All was well apart from the sensor light still showing every time the car was started. They could not clear the fault, They said the sensor was "wet" with oil on the outside so I bought a new sensor from Audi and fitted it into the sump, still have the warning lamp/error.
    They were beat, so I took it to a "expert/highly recommended" auto electrician, he worked for 4 hours on it, it has him beat, he says possible ecu damage? Is there a way to turn it off via Vagcom/vcds? everything else works fine. My car came with a factory fitted dipstick, so does not have oil level check in the MMI. I do not want to take it to the stealers to charge me £125 an hour for thing I can possibly do myself, I can get access to a vagcom/ Vcds but the person has limited knowledge of it.
    Everything else works fine. My car came with a factory fitted dipstick, so does not have oil level check in the MMI. I do not want to take it to the stealers to charge me £125 an hour for thing I can possibly do myself, I can get access to a vagcom/ Vcds but the person has limited knowledge of it. Everytime we clear the fault it returns, below is the fault code..

    4640 Engine oil Temp. Sensor (G8) : Signal Too Low
    P0197 00 [047] - -
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 00000001
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frequency: 157
    Mileage: 74332 km
    Date: 2007.01.30
    Time: 01:32:41

    Thanks Ken

    Thanks Ken..
    #1
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  3. JST_A3
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    JST_A3 Member

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    [Aug 27, 2012]
    Ken,

    I'd check the fuse as it's quite possible that the feed wire shorted out when the cable was damaged. (I believe this was also suggested in the A5 forum). The sensor is fed from fuse 2 which is located in the plenum chamber and it should be rated at 5A.

    Steve
    #2
  4. highflyer
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    highflyer New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2012]
    Fuse in the plenum chamber?? really !! we checked al fuses in the three fuse box holders, 1 in the boot,
    and the 2 in the cabin (one each side of the dash) where exactly is the one in the plenum chamber?

    Thanks Ken
    #3
  5. JST_A3
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    JST_A3 Member

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    [Aug 27, 2012]
    #4
  6. highflyer
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    highflyer New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2012]
    All I can say is WOW!!! so it's in the ecu box, too late/dark to mess on tonight, will be into it tomorrow after work.
    Thanks again Steve

    fingers crossed:salute:
    #5
  7. carnegstar
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    carnegstar New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2012]
    If its not a fuse check the garage has soldered on the wires in the correct sequence
    #6
  8. NHN
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    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat Site Sponsor VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 28, 2012]
    That was going to be my suggestion tbh as one assumes they used repair wires or joined them with extensions, as loom would be little short with a break in it now unless vag were kind enough to leave some slack, which is doubtful.
    #7
  9. highflyer
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    highflyer New Member

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    [Aug 28, 2012]
    :applaus:STEVE is a star!!:applaus: there are some fuses hidden in the ecu box under the bonnet, one of the 5amp ones had blown, a quick change and all is now well.
    Thankyou Steve, and every one else that offered there advice.

    Ken :sm4:
    #8
  10. nobru26
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    nobru26 New Member

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    [Jul 24, 2013]
    Hello guys!

    Sorry to up this old tread, but it's the only i found with the same problem as mine.
    I've got a A4 B8 3.0 TDI and yesterday i found my drive belt frayed/split after seen the yellow warnig "oil level sensor defective".
    Is there someone that can tell me where is this famous sensor? and wires? I can't find any pictures...
    And secondely, how to change the belt? what i had to remove? do i need to remove partially the front bumper? or intercooler?
    I've quickly seen yesterday, and tensionners seems to be good, when I tightens the belt i can seen them moving and coming back to there home position.
    Could you tell me where is the possible blowned fuse?

    All your help will be famous!
    Thanks
    #9
  11. jftm
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    jftm New Member

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    [Jan 27, 2014]
    Hello!!

    I'm new to the Forum. As previous post this is the same problem I have and is the only post I found related.

    I have a 2011 Q5 3.0 TDI with 40k miles. Two days ago the yellow warning "oil level sensor defective" came up. Yesterday I went to an AUDI dealer to have that checked but when I showed to the service guy the light was not there, he tried to open the hood to see if it was related to the hood sensor, it looked ok. He said probably a false alarm and let me go. After 2 miles the light came up again, I took a picture of it, just in case, and returned to the dealership, the light went off again so I showed it on my cellphone. They were about to close but they called a guy to perform a scan, he stayed there for 10 minutes with his laptop and a transmitter he put on the car, but it looked as he was not doing much there, after a while he called me and showed me a new warning, this time the message was: "Switch off engine! Oil pressure too low", He asked me if this was the same error, I said no, he said well you have to leave the car here, we are going to check it on Monday. Then they opened the hood and we found that the belt was split, and there were some parts of it on the engine cover. They said the have to check the entire car for any malfunctions to give a diagnose, the checkup will cost my $200 dlls to start which seems too much.

    I'm in Mexico and dealerships here are known for overcharging customers out of warranty (my case). I find suspicious that the guy spent 10 minutes in my car and at the end showed me a different "RED" error and told me I cannot move the car. Also $200 just to take a look at it seems a lot, and any repairs will be much more expensive. I talked to another dealership where the manager is a friend and said to take the car there and he will make a discount on the whole repair and will not charge for the diagnose, however he suggested to call a tow truck and that will cost me $300.

    I have the "feeling" that the problem is just the belt that damaged some cables, the belt is there (in half) so I guess I could be able to drive it slowly for 50 miles to the other dealership and let them fix everything. What do you think?

    Thanks for your Help! it is much appreciated!
    #10
  12. NHN
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    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat Site Sponsor VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 27, 2014]
    Welcome to the site.

    Depends on the belt, but if it was me I'd get them to fix it, as if its driven it may cause a hell of allot more damage, without knowing what belt & condition etc.
    #11
  13. jftm
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    jftm New Member

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    [Jan 29, 2014]
    Thanks for the quick response. I let them diagnose it (first I talked to the manager about my concerns). Today I went to the Dealer to look at the diagnostic; They told me that the plant (I guess Audi's central support) already had a documented incident matching the car situation where a thorn belt causes both the Oil Sensor Defective and the Low Pressure lights. They say the solution is also documented and consist in replacing the Belt, the Deflection/Guide Pulley and two spacer rings. I asked if besides the Belt the other components were damaged and they couldn't tell me, they just limited their answer to: That's what Audi says we should do and we are not doing anything else.

    Questions:

    Is it normal for the pulley to be damaged also? if this is the case, why not the rest of the rollers? how to know?
    They say some of the parts are not available and will take 2 weeks to get them, in the mean time I will have no car, I suggested they replace the belt and call me when the rest of the parts are available to send the car again, they said they can't do that.
    They want to charge ~$450 for this, I've searched the web and the OEM parts are selling for a total of $130, most online retailers wont ship to Mexico though. While at the dealer I saw their part request with a quote of $100 (Guess that is what the Dealer is paying for the parts). Would you pay $450 for this, knowing that you can get the parts for $150 and it would take a skilled technician less than 1 hour to do the job? seems excessive to me.

    Thanks again for your help.
    #12
  14. christof71
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    christof71 Member

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    [Jan 31, 2014]
    When the belt in 3 liter engines audi gets oil very quickly is frayed and cause a lot of damage.
    What is your Car year and Engine code?
    #13
  15. jftm
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    jftm New Member

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    [Feb 1, 2014]
    Q5 2011 engine CCWA
    #14
  16. christof71
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    christof71 Member

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    [Feb 1, 2014]
    "4640 Engine oil Temp. Sensor (G8) : Signal Too Low"
    In Your car , Engine Oil level and oil temperature sender is name G266.

    Wire for g266 oil level and temperature sender.

    Pin 1{red/blue} = fuse SB2
    pin 2[br] = ground
    pin3 [green/yellow] = Engine control unit wire t94 pin 40

    A97-11023.jpg
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2014
    #15
  17. christof71
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    christof71 Member

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    [Feb 1, 2014]
    A - Engine control unit -J623-
    B - 94-pin connector -T94-
    C - 60-pin​​ connector​ -T60-
    A97-11436.jpg

    When the ignition is on or the engine is running at pin 1 must be a voltage of 12 volts
    If no 12 volts check fuse sb2.
    if fuse sb2 ok and still no 12 wolts in wire pin 1 ,check wire for comtinuity.

    Check ground in pin 2 .
    check pin 3 for continuity

    The cheapest way to fix the problem ,recode dash for oil level light .
    #16

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