Jesus - IanPG ! is this in addition to your stroker? on your other S3? or are you already bored of your other engine? are you turbo charging this engine?
Why dont you try and fit a real hybrid turbo which uses an electric motor to spin up the turbo until the exhaust gases take over? or a twin turbo one small for 1500-3500 or a supercharger and big turbo?
Sounds mint Ian I’m still tempted to do this to mineit's frightening isn't it. I can't even tidy up my bedroom floor quicker than Ian essentially makes a car.
have you mucked around with the map of this? it must lack power compared to your big turbo - and use more fuel? 15MPG?
Sounds mint Ian I’m still tempted to do this to mine
I average 17mpg in my r32 so 15 mpg wouldn’t surprise me
Wow! Your certainly turn this around quickly. Made it look so easy well done Ian.
LOL thanks. It was a quickie and a sneaky one but I needed it done by the time I moved interstate... it still wasn’t doneit's frightening isn't it. I can't even tidy up my bedroom floor quicker than Ian essentially makes a car.
have you mucked around with the map of this? it must lack power compared to your big turbo - and use more fuel? 15MPG?
Is there much room for a turbo with the vr6It’s actually relatively easy considering I’ve not worked on a VR6 engine before. It was just knowing the main parts that needed to be there for the engine to mount in properly then having to figure out a way to make the front end fit because of the tight squeeze. The mk4’s seems to have a little more room down the front.
I’ll make a list of everything I found that needed swapping over / changing / modding to make this happen (I’m looking at you @Tj 0785 )
LOL thanks. It was a quickie and a sneaky one but I needed it done by the time I moved interstate... it still wasn’t done
There is a lack of torque busting through the sound barrier feeling but the down low torque, even with 200kg’s of my **** in the boot, in buttery smooth. It’s actually quite nice. It’ll be interesting to see how it is without all that extra weight.
MPG on freeway was actually pretty good. Was at 8-ish on flat ground and up to 15 when overtaking and up bigger hills. Only filled up once. It surprised me!
Loads... VR tilts forward...Is there much room for a turbo with the vr6
Amen. Although Ian is bright enough to fit some alternative mechanism. Eg dual pulley supercharger, compressed air charge reseviour turbos etc. Dual inline turbos, electric spin up turbosBoost it or gay
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You need the VR ECU...What do you do about the extra lambda sensors do you need the vr ecu aswell or can it be added to the s3 ecu?
HPA suggest that 400-500hp is doable on std internals... you use a spacer gasket to get the CR down... VR engines require less boost to achieve the HP/torque figures that us 20vt peeps have to use so cylinder pressures aren't as great...I don’t know how you get your head round that I didn’t understand one word of it ha. But I have been looking into this you can pick the engine up for £300-450 and have seen a few gt30 kits for this. But they don’t include the engine internals.
Did you go for the bde code on purpose instead of the earlier ones for the vvt?
The angle of the 'V' is greater on the earlier engines iirc...I’m sure I’ve seen on here ( could be on r32oc)something about there being more metal between the bores as it’s the same block means the block is stronger which is better for turbocharging plus the 2.8 is 1/3 of the price of a 3.2 engine
Really I episode thought it would be same as a 1.8t although the parts are different I thought it would be same grade metal so would take around the same limits. But that makes this change a whole lot more appealing. I’d probably still be tempted to do rods while engine outHPA suggest that 400-500hp is doable on std internals... you use a spacer gasket to get the CR down... VR engines require less boost to achieve the HP/torque figures that us 20vt peeps have to use so cylinder pressures aren't as great...
Bill had a HPA R32 on the dyno a while back... GT3071 turbo... made 440hp/440ftlbs at 15 ish psi...
<tuffty/>
so im guessing the cylinder heads are probably not interchangeable if there's such a big difference in the blocks ?
Pretty much...So here’s an idea, buy a donor Audi TT 3.2. £2000 Take all the engine, loom, Ecu, engine mounts and stick it into the S3? Is it really as easy as that? With some obvious manipulation.
Pretty much could even take the dsg and fit that, but the 3.2 gives less power than my stage 1 s3 although it sounds better would need a turbo for me to do itSo here’s an idea, buy a donor Audi TT 3.2. £2000 Take all the engine, loom, Ecu, engine mounts and stick it into the S3? Is it really as easy as that? With some obvious manipulation.
so im guessing the cylinder heads are probably not interchangeable if there's such a big difference in the blocks ?
LOL read it again and look at the picture. It’ll make senseI don’t know how you get your head round that I didn’t understand one word of it ha...
Did you go for the bde code on purpose instead of the earlier ones for the vvt?
Ian why didnt you go 3.2 ?
So here’s an idea, buy a donor Audi TT 3.2. £2000 Take all the engine, loom, Ecu, engine mounts and stick it into the S3? Is it really as easy as that? With some obvious manipulation.
I guess i don't belong to these forums anymore...
This has been sitting around for a while now and as i've gone to move interstate, a change of plans have come along with Noggie.
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As you can see it looks like a palava! All of these unfamiliar things going on with wiring, plugs and many components i'm looking at thinking "what is this?" and "gawd what a mess"
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So out come some tools to start pulling this little beast apart
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- managed to get these off without breaking anything
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- labelling as i go
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- releasing the serpentine belt. I used a rear CV to diff flange bolt - perfect length!
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- off it comes. Had to make note of it's routing too.
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- after many bolts on the front of the head, side and back - the convoluted inlet manifold can come off.
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- hidden underneath are the injectors, proper access to the coilpacks and fuel rail. Without the inlet manifold removed it's quite difficult to remove the coilpacks without a tool. Now i can just pull them out by hand.
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- the angle of these!
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- these were looking a tad crusty
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- Now that i'd removed the spark plugs it makes it much easier to turn the engine by hand. Finding the TDC marks and lining them up. 27mm socket to turn the dampener bolt! LOL
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- reference shot of the back of the engine
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- cam cover off to be met with a slightly brown interior
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- you need to lock the cams in place before doing timing work. I didn't want to pay $150 for the official tool so i used some off cuts that i had from making my oil cooler bracket, stacked them up and they fit perfect!
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- more reference pics and marking with single or double lines to make sure plugs go back in the right spot
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- top and bottom timing chain covers off. The crank and flywheel are mated together with 10 bolts!!! They're definitely not going to to anywhere.
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- these bits needed a bit of a scrub
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- turning my attention to the gearbox side of things. You can see why you need the VR clutch housing. The Gear housing is interchangeable. The bevel box is also slightly different. Notice the shaved edge on the VR part vs the 1.8t. The bracket is also different. CV heatshield is the same. I opened these up to swap in my 1 piece selector forks.
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- turning towards the wiring loom now, count 'em! 6 coilpack plugs. wooo!
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- This was the not so fun part. Where the 1.8t has TWO lambda plugs. the VR6 has 4. They need to fit into the tiniest gab in between the brake fluid reservoir and the chassis. FML.
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- it's doable, just takes a bit of fiddling around
- since it was out and very easily accessible i decided to refresh the timing gear: chains, guides and the two tensioners
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- comparing the wear on the engine's original guides vs. new. You can see the tracks that have been worn but it doesn't look too bad.
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- all done and fitted! Surprisingly "easy" because of all the reference marks and colours chain links that you've got to work with.
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- refreshing the seals on the upper timing chain cover. Just a simple case of push out and push in.
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- i was impressed by how "idiot proof" gaskets are. They are all notched so you know exactly which way to put them. The cylinder cover bolts are also held in by the gasket as you remove it. No more losing these!
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... and i've run out of photo upload allowance!
TBC