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Noob Detailing Fail

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by toastyhamster, Jul 4, 2011.

  1. toastyhamster
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    toastyhamster Member

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    [​IMG]So... picked up the car in my sig last week, started reading this forum with interest, always having used sponge and chammy in the past I thought I'd give the mitt and cloth a go, and at the same time following some positive feedback on here I got some of the NXT car shampoo and tech wax.


    Washing - two bucket method
    Hosed down the car first, not really that dirty, just some residue left from standing in a couple of showers and a dry 260 mile round trip to Gt Yarmouth this weekend.
    Mitt - Easy enough to use, getting a good feeling about this....
    Shampoo - not that impressed - followed the instructions but lack of suds after first few uses, seemed to do the job though, not sure how it would fare on a dirtier car. Totally useless on dried on bugs which my previous product used to get about 50% off.
    Cloth for drying - had real problems with this. Was great at the start when the cloth was dry, but once it got wet how the hell do you get the last few drops of water off without smearing it and it then drying leaving marks?

    Tech Wax - Easy to apply - did rear wing, getting a good feeling about this....
    Left to dry, start to wipe off. WTF! Smear smear smear smear
    Tried again on different part of car, tried less wax, tried more wax, smear smear smear.
    Persevered but the bonnet looked so bad I ended up going over it with my old car wax and as usual it came up pretty well.


    So, car looks great at a distance and at certain angles but close inspection and it looks a bit rubbish.

    Will all be down to user error - so what am I doing wrong? Buying more cloths would solve the drying issue but I really couldn't get to grips with the wax at all. Pretty frustrating - about 20 years ago I trained up to be a paint sprayer and got to be a dab hand removing defects and general polishing (Farecla on an orbital mop, followed by whatever wax we had in - times have changed!).

    Still a pleasant enough couple of hours, even if No1 sons idea of cleaning the 20 spoke wheels was to wipe the tyre!

    Pics:
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    #1
  2. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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    Well you're on the right track.

    What type of drying towel did you use?

    The smearing could be any number of issues: could be the panels were too hot. Could be you've used too much product, could be that the car already has a last step product applied and this one isn't bonding, hence the smearing.

    The solution would be to wash the car mid-evening, when the sun's dropped then dry it and leave it; that'll remove the excess product on the paint and should sharpen things up a little.
    #2
  3. Syvo
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    Syvo IF IN DOUBT GO FLAT OUT

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    the drying issue i would get two large drying towels.
    to remove the bugs get some bug and tar remover and the shampoo throw that away get some softwash or meguires gold class shampoo.

    also it would be idea to get some polish either ag super resin or poorboys black hole.
    then a good prewax cleaner i recomend dodo juice lime prime
    and a good wax poor boys exp or collinite 459(i think thats the right collinite)

    a good finish is all down to the prep i.e washing stage and drying.
    #3
  4. toastyhamster
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    toastyhamster Member

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    Should have been more clear - the shampoo is NXT Car Wash. I was thinking as I was doing it there may already be product on there and I think my next purchase might be the AG Super Resin. No idea what the dealer uses to make it shiny, if you read the A4 forum you'll know it's going back for a couple of paint defects and whilst washing I found a load of polish dropped from a DA on the bonnet edge, so whatever they use they're not very thorough.

    Couple of large drying towels should be easy enough, maybe I should invest in a couple of decent ones rather than the single cheap one I picked up (Halfords).

    Did wonder about the heat but there's been no sun since early AM here today and the car is in shade from late morning anyway, panels weren't hot to the touch. Have wxed a car in full sun before - and got away with it just - didn't seem that type of problem.
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  5. Padtwo
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    Padtwo Member

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    I would definitely try a different drying towel. The first one I tried I could not get on with at all then I discovered online purchasing! You don't need to go mad with it but a drying towel and a couple of microfibre cloths to remove product should help. What sort of cloths were you using? Some cloths can get clogged very quickly meaning you are just moving product about on the surface. I have had one which "stopped working" so I put it under a running tap to start washing it out but then took it out effectively dry, with beading!! Worked much better after a proper wash!

    I try not to rub the surface when drying. I lay the towel flat then pat the back of it in an attempt to prevent scratching and smearing any wax there might be on it.

    I would also say if using autoglym super resin polish or poorboys blackhole then I would apply these after paintwork cleaners like lime prime as the srp and bh container fillers which the lp would remove.
    #5
  6. StateOfPlay
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    StateOfPlay Active Member

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    So why was the megs wax smearing?
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  7. FranA3
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    FranA3 events moderator Regional Rep

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    get some dodo juice supernatural on it mate it will bring the colour of your paint up i use it on mine and i was very impressed with the shine but alot of the work is in the prep work
    #7
  8. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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    Whilst it's not a product we stock, from personal experience, I think SRP will be a waste of time here; it's a bit of a jack of all trades, master of none.

    The Audi paint is so hard, SRP just won't cut into the surface to remove any defects or enhance gloss; the improvements you get will be from the filling/masking/glazing capabilities of the product. There are other products on the market which offer more filling/glazing capabilities.

    Personally, I'd start with R222 Gloss Enhancing Paintwork cleanser to mask any minor defects and lay down a good base for wax/sealant. It'll also chemically cleanse the paint. R222 Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser | R222 Car Care & Detailing Products

    I think, from the pictures, that your car is solid black (correct me if I'm wrong) so generally speaking a good quality wax will give the best results.

    You can have good results with a wax like Poorboy's Natty's Blue: Poorboy's Natty's Blue Paste Wax | Poorboy's Car Care & Detailing Products

    or you can move up the price scale and try something like Raceglaze 42: a 42% carnauba wax; extremely wet-looking finish, excellent water beading, great durability. Raceglaze Signature Series '42' | Raceglaze Car Care & Detailing Products

    Our deep pile drying towels are probably a good idea; I'd just go with one; even on a slightly larger car like your's, you'll get at least 1/2 way round before you need to wring it out: PB Luxury Drying Towel | PB Car Care & Detailing Products

    Our detailing advice guides are all here: Car Care Advice | Detailing Advice | Polished Bliss
    #8
  9. toastyhamster
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    toastyhamster Member

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    Thanks John, I'll give those products a go, not going to have chance now for at least a couple of weeks though, give me a chance to see how the NXT wax holds up at least.

    Phantom Black Metallic btw
    #9
  10. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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    Excellent, if you need any specific advice, just let me know.

    If you want the really wet look, stick with one of the waxes; if you're after a sharper look, highlighting the metallic flake more, swap out the wax for Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection: Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection | Blackfire Car Care & Detailing Products

    :)
    #10
  11. S3RYE
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    S3RYE Interior Next!!

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    the poorboys wax works excellent with phantom black! i had it for my last car and bought some more from PB for my S3.
    [​IMG]
    #11
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  12. johnnythepie
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    johnnythepie Active Member

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    +1 on the blackfire.I too have a pearl phantom, and after detailing ith the bf polish/sealent/wax is absolutely stunning.Very sharp, very wet, and loads of sparkle pop.Those flakes really come alive.BUT.And theres always a but.The bf is pretty shyte as a paint protector.Tree sap or bird **** needs to be cleaned off IMMEDIATELY or it will stain, which is impossible to do if youve left your car anywhere on its own.Ive used collinite on my bonnet/roof which is slightly better as resisting stains but not much....I live in pigeon paradise and am always getting shat on(i keep shooting them they keep breeding).Funny thing about those drying towels though, ive tried several and out of a dozen only three pick up well.The others just seem like a bathtowel thats had fabric conditioner.....feels nice but does **** all.Even towels of the same brand have differances.So I use those for product removal...the microfibres just clog up to easy and dont 'grip' enough.Oh, and dont forget to wash the towels on thier own with non bio.And you havent failed.Its a constant learning curve but theres some great bods on this forum so you aint alone
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2011
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  13. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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    This is odd; we find the Blackfire offers excellent paint protection; how many layers of product do you have on your car?

    The birds near you could have an odd diet, making their 'droppings' very acidic though; I say this because Collinite is generally rock solid for protection (not the best for looks, but great as a winter wax.)

    The towels, also, this is a little unusual. To fully clean them and strip everything from them, try washing them with white vinegar in the detergent drawer - don't add any detergent. Addtionally, spin them on a high speed cycle to ensure as much loose fibres get shaken free.
    #13
  14. phil76
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    phil76 Member

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    Thread hi-jack i am sorry but would you recommend the same cleaner & blackfire for a car which is dolphin grey? i have heard very good things about the blackfire in the past and was wondering if to give it a bash,i have used all sorts of decent brands in the past like megs,swizz-wax and dodo but everyone says the blackfire is better on darker cars
    #14
  15. johnnythepie
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    johnnythepie Active Member

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    Hello John
    I have three coats, with regular top ups of the midnight sun wax..except on the bonnet and roof which has a top coat of collinite 915.My paints a bit weird though....when im washing it i can see small black spots (about half the size of a 5p piece) that look like shadows.These disappear when dry!Whether this is as a result of dead flies/bird **** i dont know.I think its about due a complete strip and re treat,(have a few surface scratches on the roof and bonnet cos a local moorhen thinks its a frickin pond) just to put my mind at rest.I find that the bird **** is worse in the spring when its that purple colour from the berries.Im smelling that vinegar now!!!And by the way, you need to put a warning on that blackfire stuff...its that wet that im surrounded by flies that think its water.Aright pain when buffing!
    #15
  16. johnnythepie
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    johnnythepie Active Member

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    Dolphin pearl is the colour that shows off purples and mauves in the light isnt it?.Blackfire would be perfect for it judging by what it does to my flakes.Shame you cant buy a 'tester' cos it aint cheap for the full package
    #16
  17. si hoc
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    si hoc Member

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    if you are having trouble drying once rinsed go over the car with an open ended hose if theres enough wax on the car it will almost dry itself, i only use 1 cyc blue fluffy drying towel to dry my avant after this method and its not that wet
    #17
  18. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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    Yes, for Dolphine Grey, I recommend the Wet Diamond kit: Blackfire Wet Diamond Kit | Synthetic Car Paint Protection Kit

    Sounds like you have some serious wildlife issues!

    No need for samples when you know it's that good.....! That's the benefit of us testing, and using in our studio, every product we sell.

    We do a 30day money-back type guarantee too.

    :)
    #18
  19. johnnythepie
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    johnnythepie Active Member

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    didnt know you did a 30 day money back jobby!Nice!
    #19
  20. phil76
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    phil76 Member

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    I see the kit doesnt come with a cleaner though ? is one needed ? and also is it worth just buying the polish & protection alone as already have various detailing sprays or is this one really going to stand out to the others?,sorry for the stupid questions

    :think:
    #20
  21. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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    After washing and drying, Gloss Enhancing Polish is the next step.

    Gloss Enhancing Polish is a partial misnomer: it will enhance gloss but it's not technically a polish as it contains no abrasives. It masks/fills minor defects and chemically cleanses the paint making it appear brighter and enhancing clarity.

    The sealant maximises the metallic flake and leaves a very reflective finish - it's also durable (4 months from one application, the bottle give aorund 30 applications).

    The quick detailer adds protection, extending the durability of the sealant. Due to the polymer type of the sealant, it will try to reply 'regular' quick detailers - they'll tend to look smeary. Using Blackfire's detailer spray avoids this.

    :)
    #21
  22. rowdyboy
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    rowdyboy Member

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    I have dolphin grey and use the Werkstat acrylic kit. I posted some pics on here a while ago, if you search through, you'll find them.
    Nothing sticks to my paint, the pressure washer removes everything, including bugs.
    The kit comes with a paint cleaner/primer and a post wash detail/top up spray. I couldn't recommend it highly enough.
    I purchased it from polishedbliss nearly 2 years ago and still haven't used it all up yet.
    #22
  23. S3RYE
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    S3RYE Interior Next!!

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    john what is the best clay bar/lube kit for a noob like myself?


    cheers
    #23
  24. StateOfPlay
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    StateOfPlay Active Member

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    I am a noob and I used Meguiars clay bar kit, comes with 2 clay bars, a quik detailer spray, a quik polish and a cotton towel.

    My first attempt at Clay Bar, and |I found it very easy to do, lot easier than I thought.

    Only done it once though, so certainly not an expert!
    #24
  25. S3RYE
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    S3RYE Interior Next!!

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    yeh ive noticed most people use that one, will grab myself one today! cheers
    #25
  26. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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    #26
  27. S3RYE
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    S3RYE Interior Next!!

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    it will be heavily contaminated as it hasnt been clayed for nearly two years!!! so will i run out of clay with this kit? also i saw you mentioned AG SRP was not great at polishing Audi paint.. if thats the case what would you reccomend?

    this is my plan, let me know if i have got the order and products right!!!

    Foam
    2 Bucket wash method- PA lance and megs hyperwash
    clay - megs
    SRP - AG
    Paint cleaner - raceglaze
    EGP - AG
    Poorboys wax x 2 coats
    #27
  28. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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    The bar should be ok - it's normally good for at least twice round the car so it should handle once on a heavily contaminated car.

    SRP and Raceglaze Paint Cleanser will be doing basically the same thing so just use the Raceglaze.

    As far as I know EGP is a sort of stand alone product (don't quote me on that though!) so either use it on its own or put on a couple of coats of Poorboys wax. (obviously, I'll recommend the Poorboys option)
    #28
  29. S3RYE
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    S3RYE Interior Next!!

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    Foam
    2 Bucket wash method- PA lance and megs hyperwash
    clay - megs
    Paint cleaner - raceglaze
    Poorboys wax x 2 coats

    so like this then!? :blush:
    #29
  30. John @ PB
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    John @ PB Member

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  31. S3RYE
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    S3RYE Interior Next!!

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    will let you know how i get on!!
    #31

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