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No lights on buzzer, drivers side puddle light not working..

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by AidenUK, Feb 4, 2010.

  1. AidenUK
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    AidenUK Well-Known Member

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    [Feb 4, 2010]
    and the car locks when the drivers door has been left open without me starting the engine?

    Is this the drivers door module that is knackered?

    :icon_thumright:
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  3. NHN
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    [Feb 4, 2010]
    1st thing to do is get it scanned with vagcom mate, also no lights on buzzer?? You mean the buzzer that warns you when you've left lights on is going of randomly?
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  4. AidenUK
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    AidenUK Well-Known Member

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    [Feb 4, 2010]
    No sorry, want i meant as if i turn the engine off but leave the lights on and open the door, the car used to buzz/beep to let the driver know the lights were still on, it no longer does this. I remember this happening on my VW Golf MK4 GT TDI so this is why i thought it could be the switch in the door as it was on the Golf.

    The last time the car was scanned (by a forum member) there was an error code come up to do with the 'central convenience' module? We cleared the fault and it didn't come back however i have not scanned the car since, stupidly i didn't take much notice of that because i hadn't noticed that the buzzer for the lights didn't work or the puddle light not coming on when opening the drivers door.

    Thanks

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  5. NHN
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    [Feb 4, 2010]
    Need a scan mate to help further, could be door module or related to convenience given both handle somethings with locking/doors
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  6. AidenUK
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    AidenUK Well-Known Member

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    [Feb 4, 2010]
    I'll get it scanned again and post up the results in this thread.

    Thanks for your help NHN.

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  7. AidenUK
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    AidenUK Well-Known Member

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    [Feb 10, 2010]
    No fault codes found today using VAG COM, i have checked ALL fuses in the car.

    I have also noticed that when i open the drivers door, the interior lights do not activate, yet if i do the same with the passenger side door the interior lights come on?

    Any more ideas?

    TY :icon_thumright:
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  8. NHN
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    [Feb 10, 2010]
    Could be drivers lock/sensor is goosed as they work on a microswitch inside the lock mate, I've had these apart, its either this or the door module.
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  9. VWAddict
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    VWAddict Member VCDS Map User

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    [Feb 10, 2010]
    Sounds like the old problem with MkIV's...

    The lock assembly itself has a few microswitches in it, two of which confirms locked/unlocked position, and one which tells the car that the driver's door has been opened. (there's no pin-switch in the door frame as in days of old... now it looks at the switch inside the lock.

    You can see how it works on your (still working) passenger side by taking a lollipop stick/screwdriver/mucky finger and -with the door swung wide open, push the lock-latch FULLY in (to its second 'click' and you'll see that the door thinks it's closed, and the lights will fade off after the usual amount of time. It thinks the door is closed even though it's still swing wide open. If you have the DIS, the DIS will also show the door as being closed. -Now 'pull' the door handle (inside or outside) and the DIS (with the key in the ignition and engine running) will tell you that the door is open, the puddle light will come on, etc.

    SO...

    What's happening in your driver's door is that it thinks it's closed all the time, even when its open. That means that it never thinks you're opening the door, so it doesn't turn on the puddle light, doesn't alert you in the DIS that you've left a door open (if you ever do), and also locks the car and re-arms the alarm if you don't start the engine in time. (The car has been programmed to re-lock itself in case the owner ever presses the remote button by accident and unlocks the car after a locked state, but doesn't get in for 60 seconds or whatever... it sort of assumes "well, he's nog getting in, so it must have been a mistake..." sort of thing.

    You can check the state of that switch in VAG-COM.

    I've repaired it in MkIVs (and that's what EVERYTHING in this post is based on so far...) but I bet it's similar for the MkV...

    In the MKIV, you have to remove the door panel, take out the window, then remove the lock module.

    Once on the bench, dismantle the lock module, TAKING PHOTOS AS YOU GO. You'll almost certainly find a few microswitches, and you'll have to use a multimeter/continuity buzzer to see what's what... but on the MkIVs, the solder connections where the board meets the connector tend to become brittle and look like 'dry joints' (also called "cold solder joints in the US). Take some solder braid and remove the old, grey, crystalline, dull-looking solder, then clean with alcohol or flux, and re-flow the solder... after first having checked that the switch itself changes state (there should be three terminals on most microswitches, one common terminal and two 'pole' terminals. The common terminal conects alternately to one then the other 'poles', switching when the button is activated... check with a continuity tester and then follow the wires/PCB traces through and find where it fails.

    Inside the MkIV lock assembly, there's a few spiral springs, and a centrifugally-sprung motor which 'connects' mechanically (when spun) to the worm-screw-threaded rod which lifts and drops the little 'door locked' pin. (which isn't in the MkV A3... though the vestigial remnants may be inside the lock module, in case they're used in other platform-sisters... I won't know until I've looked inside one)

    So... if you fancy 'boldly going where no man has gone before' (to split an infinitive!), then I'd suggest puling it apart, -I'm pretty certain that you need the lock module repaired or replaced. -The dealer will only replace it, I'm sure.

    In the MkIV, the problem occurs soonest in cars owned/driven by people who slam the doors hardest. -The inertia/mass of the cable harness coming from the connector 'flexes' when the door is slammed shut, and this continual bending stresses the solder joints. It's also why it happens to the most used doors first. -On my car, the driver's door followed by the driver's-side rearpassenger door, followed by the passenger-side rear door... corresponding EXACTLY to the frequency of use...

    If you replace the module, I might be interested in performing an autopsy on the old one... Then I can post pictures for everyone, if I get it to work.

    Keith
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  10. VWAddict
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    VWAddict Member VCDS Map User

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    [Feb 10, 2010]
    Darn it Nigel... I spent AGES typing all that up... and by the time I'd posted it, you'd said that bit about the door lock module microswitches...

    I should've claimed 'dibs' with a 'place-holder post'... -Now I just look like a copycat! :jester:
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  11. AidenUK
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    AidenUK Well-Known Member

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    [Feb 10, 2010]
    Thanks for the helpful reply, i'll have a look at the micro switches on the lock itself to start with, if that fails i'll replace the drivers door module.

    :icon_thumright:
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  12. NHN
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    [Feb 10, 2010]
    Not atall mate, you've explained it fully where as mine was the short version, so kudos, I've got pics of the lock apart aswell as it doesnt have springs in these, just 2-3 microswitches & 2 motors, had that apart for days in italy working out a mod, finally figured it, I'll post up some pics of internals later so you know what you're looking at.

    Yeah lock has a real bastardo little plastic tab that comes from the barrel that goes into the lock that turns to contact the microswitches either way, its a bugger to get back into position tbh, you'll see, lol, but its just 2 bolts on side of door & then she's of, thats after door card of, the plastic black internal trim & the metal rod that is fixed to a strange fixing where the lock is.
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  13. VWAddict
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    VWAddict Member VCDS Map User

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    [Feb 10, 2010]
    It's probably worth noting that everybody would benefit from NOT shutting the door with more force than the small amount which it takes to close the lock...

    Personally, I use an index finger's worth of 'gentle-push', and the door closes perfectly. -Hopefully mine will last longer than if I just pushed it shut with little or no 'mechanical sympathy'.

    -We'll have to see!

    Keith
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  14. NHN
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    [Feb 10, 2010]
    Yeah tell my brother that mate, the term gently shut the fecking door seems to circumvent his ear lobes
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  15. Gti Jazz Blue
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    Gti Jazz Blue Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Feb 11, 2010]
    Just to add to this thread as I also had a Mark IV Golf with the door issue, it can also just be caused by a sticky micro switch from over spray of lube from a dealer tech as they spray lube them as part of the service.

    That is all that caused my problem on my Mark IV not the dry joint issue.

    Paul
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  16. AidenUK
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    AidenUK Well-Known Member

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    [Feb 11, 2010]
    Good news, it's not the central convenience module, it's seems as if it's the catch in the door sticking, i can move the catch and the puddle light comes on and the door open shows on the dash, my issue is now how do i clean the lock up? I have put plenty of WD40 on the catch today and it has freed it up a little bit but not enough the trigger the micro switch when i open the door, there feels as if there is plenty of gunky oil in the catch but i can't get inside to clean it up?

    Once i take the door card off, can i actually break anything in regards to the lock? I don't want to get to the point where i can't actually lock the car or shut the door if i drop a ******* once the lock is out?

    Thanks :icon_thumright:
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  17. NHN
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    [Feb 12, 2010]
    Just remove door lock & take apart & its possible the microswitch has become dislodged as trust me its not a great fitment overall, microswitch shouldnt of become faulty given design but anythings possible, seen locks on ebay for cheap as new ones are extortionate.
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  18. AidenUK
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    AidenUK Well-Known Member

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    [Feb 12, 2010]
    I think it's just a case of cleaning the lock up as i can click the micro switch into a position which then illuminates the puddle light and shows drivers door open in the dash. I'll have a look at that this week and see whats what.

    Thanks for your help.

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