New owner after some advice

[Seanchadwick2k3]

Well tjats what was suggested to me.on another site but I doubt the pulse would be enough to heat the bulb at all so it wouldnt matter.

As soon as 12volt are applied the relat should come in to play and divert power to the leds.

I now have some Leds that work without the dis complaining. Ive also ordered a 12volt relay and a 10watt 6.8 ohm resistor. 6.8 was the closest I could get to 7 ohms

 

[Simon968]

Just a thought guys - Audi do a kit of retrofit LED tail lights for Avants with normal bulbs (pre-facelift). Now presumably those cars will still do a bulb check, so that means that the retrofit lamps must have something built into them to prevent the flashing and bulbs warnings?

 

[KrisKrk]

Just a thought guys - Audi do a kit of retrofit LED tail lights for Avants with normal bulbs (pre-facelift). Now presumably those cars will still do a bulb check, so that means that the retrofit lamps must have something built into them to prevent the flashing and bulbs warnings?

No. Apparently vcds coding is required for lamp modules. Read about it in few places.
Going from there, if you can adapt ned led lights to PFL car, there must be a way to adapt new led bulbs to FL modules.

Just found this

Person who wrote that has found it in A4 section of a forum he was a member of but used on he’s A6 and it worked.
I found it in Polish Audi forum where members had same problem of strobe in number plate bulbs.

I asked member here before, if it’s possible to code out those bulb checks but been replied it cannot on our C6 chassis.

There must be something We can do


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[Seanchadwick2k3]

I dont have vcds to try. I had a cheap eBay cable and the lite version but wont work on the a6.

Hopefully these bits arrive soon and can give this a shot

 

[Simon968]

Was that in a C6 A6?
I think that later generations have more coding options.
My Passat CC had the option to code out the cold lamp check quite easily.
I would also like to code out the headlamp wash on the first screen wash with the lights on...but that’s another thread

 

[KrisKrk]

Was that in a C6 A6?
I think that later generations have more coding options.
My Passat CC had the option to code out the cold lamp check quite easily.
I would also like to code out the headlamp wash on the first screen wash with the lights on...but that’s another thread

It was C6. I've been told, there is a lot more what can be done on the cpu with vcds in C7's. It is bizarre that no one yet in here has came out with an solution for any of C6's

 

[Seanchadwick2k3]

Probably just a lack of Guinea pigs willing to potentially kill the car off altering values!

 

[Seanchadwick2k3]

Anyone tried wind/rain deflectors on the a6? Drives me nuts when I open the window and all the rain off the roof pours in!

 

[KrisKrk]

Anyone tried wind/rain deflectors on the a6? Drives me nuts when I open the window and all the rain off the roof pours in!

Had Heko ones in my Fabia. Wicked stuff.

Maybe one day, will put them on the A6


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[Steveredman]

I think the situation is that there are no full LED rear light options for the C6. The LED rears clusters you can buy are LED for the brake / tail only. This is why there will be an option to code out the diagnostic pulses for brake / tail, but not for indicator, reverse or fog lights.

I accept that the resistance of the bulb when cold is probably what you would need to simulate with the resistor, as the bulb does not get hot from the diagnostic pulse, however for the sake of completeness I have tested current with a constant 12V supply.

I measured 0.35A, multiplied by 12V = 4.2W

12V / 0.35A = 34.3ohms

As an aside, I was followed home this evening by an old Saab which clearly had LED front Foglight replacements, they were flickering every 2 seconds ish and were really annoying in my rear view mirror!


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[Seanchadwick2k3]

Im just waiting on my resistors and relay to turn up. If these fail ill try a different resistor. Ideally wanted 7 ohm resistor but closest I could find was 6.8.

 

[Seanchadwick2k3]

Im looking at getting the mufflers chopped off, anyone done this to the 170? Is ut worth getting the middle silencer out too? Or would this be too noisy? I know the Dpf and cat cut back most of the noise but dont want it sounding stupid.

Found a few vids on youtube but not sure if they have just had rear mufglers off or both.

 

[Seanchadwick2k3]

Forgot to add, whats the deal with resonated tips?

 

[Steveredman]

Ok, so got a few bits ordered and decided to experiment. As I had the rear indicator LED bulbs handy I decided to attack the rear right corner. Chopped the cable going to the cluster and attached a 4 pin plug and socket to the cables. Then wired in the relay with a pair of W5W bulb holders.

Can confirm there was no error, and no diagnostic pulse flash from the bulb

So packaged it up nicely (plastic box has been ordered)

And installed beautifully

I will now run this for a bit and see what happens.


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[KrisKrk]

Ok, so got a few bits ordered and decided to experiment. As I had the rear indicator LED bulbs handy I decided to attack the rear right corner. Chopped the cable going to the cluster and attached a 4 pin plug and socket to the cables. Then wired in the relay with a pair of W5W bulb holders.

Can confirm there was no error, and no diagnostic pulse flash from the bulb

So packaged it up nicely (plastic box has been ordered)

And installed beautifully

I will now run this for a bit and see what happens.


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Great to hear a positive result of this fix.

Why did you used two W5W bulbs for?

So, no flash when computer does it’s diagnostics and full working order for led in indicator?

I’ve got the relay also but no time to fiddle with it yet

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[Steveredman]

That's right, one bulb is on the circuit when the relay is inactive, the other is in parallel with the indicator bulb when the relay is activated.

I'll be testing with and without the bulb in parallel to see if it is necessary.


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[KrisKrk]

Riiight.
It makes more sense now.
Upgraded version of this guy video with Saab


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[Steveredman]

If the bulb in parallel with the actual indicator is not required then I'd be tempted to swap the other bulb for a resistor, as the tiny pulse every 20 seconds is not enough to generate much heat and it could be contained within an enclosure.


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[KrisKrk]

If anything, it would show any problems already.

Yours is FL model, right?


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[Seanchadwick2k3]

Great news! We have results! Im waiting for my relay to.come to try it with a 10 watt 6.8 ohm resistor.

Do your current leds put an error on the dash? Is this why you have also put one inline with the leds?

 

[niedzial1983]

No. Apparently vcds coding is required for lamp modules. Read about it in few places.
Going from there, if you can adapt ned led lights to PFL car, there must be a way to adapt new led bulbs to FL modules.

Just found this

Person who wrote that has found it in A4 section of a forum he was a member of but used on he’s A6 and it worked.
I found it in Polish Audi forum where members had same problem of strobe in number plate bulbs.

I asked member here before, if it’s possible to code out those bulb checks but been replied it cannot on our C6 chassis.

There must be something We can do


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Unfortunaty this wont work. In vw and skoda you can code out cold bulb check with vcds and long codding but not on audi

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[KrisKrk]

Hey @Steveredman, how is it going with relay tests?

I just did mine on the number plate lights.

Before:



After:



I have not installed any additional bulb or resistor inline with led bulb, like you did.
All work fine

Annoying slightly a bit is that hearable relay clicks when its triggered or going off.
Still haven’t put the tailgate trim back on as planning to install those relays in reverse bulbs so it may be less obvious when all is back in place.


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[Simon968]

I'm no expert, but can you get 12v DC solid state relays?
No moving parts, so no clicking.

 

[KrisKrk]

I'm no expert, but can you get 12v DC solid state relays?
No moving parts, so no clicking.

Hmmm

Just ordered 5 of them.

Will search again


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[Steveredman]

That's good, yesterday built a small package with 4 relays and 4 resistors (nothing in parallel with the bulbs) and installed it in the driver's footwell intercepting the signal for the 2 front turn signals and the front fogs, so far so good! But the relay click is noticeable, doesn't really bother me though.


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[Steveredman]

I'm going to use the connectors from the kufatec resistor thingy to make something up for the number plate lights, then have something in the rear right boot compartment to do the indicators, fogs and reverse lights, will intercept the cables at the central convenience unit there.


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[KrisKrk]

That's good, yesterday built a small package with 4 relays and 4 resistors (nothing in parallel with the bulbs) and installed it in the driver's footwell intercepting the signal for the 2 front turn signals and the front fogs, so far so good! But the relay click is noticeable, doesn't really bother me though.


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Are all the connections for front fogs and indicators are in the drivers footwell?
Which ones?

Indicators are already on relays with noticeable clicks. Doesn’t this cause double click?

I have resistors for both, indicators and fogs fitted by the lamps.
Indicators connected right from the bulb holder in the wheel arch and fogs, accessed the wiring loom from wheel arch wiring loom.
Presume, if fitted relay’s there, would not hear them much?


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[KrisKrk]

I'm going to use the connectors from the kufatec resistor thingy to make something up for the number plate lights, then have something in the rear right boot compartment to do the indicators, fogs and reverse lights, will intercept the cables at the central convenience unit there.


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Reverse and number plate lights are in the tailgate.
Is there a harness allowing you to simply connect to those lights from boot area?

Number plate wires are on one plug with boot/tailgate handle switch.
I’ve tapped into the wires directly behind the connector as further along there is a control module of some sort, I think.
Relay and resistor secured to tailgate with screws and nuts.
Wires for number plate lights at the plug/connector are the two internal ones (second and third out of 4). Yellow/grey being positive feed.
Two external ones (first and forth out of 4) are for the handle switch.

Rear fogs and indicators are accessible from both boot sides or just one? If one, which one?

You running Saloon, aren’t you Steve?
They can’t be different than Avant’s.


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[KrisKrk]

I'm no expert, but can you get 12v DC solid state relays?
No moving parts, so no clicking.

They seems to be 4 pin relays in solid state

 

[Seanchadwick2k3]

I started putting mine together, dont have any spade connectors so have some really ugly solder joints! Started back at work this week after 6 weeks and have a new baby so spare time is non existent!

Glad to see you are getting results.

Could use a box like @Steveredman used but something a bit thicker to dull the clicks down a bit? Some form of water tight box maybe? The seal.should prevent a lot of the noise escaping

 

[Seanchadwick2k3]

Quick Google brings up reed relays havent looked intonit much yet but here's googles description

Reed relay
A reed relay is a type of relay that uses an electromagnet to control one or more reed switches. The contacts are of magnetic material and the electromagnet acts directly on them without requiring an armature to move them.

 

[Steveredman]

Reverse and number plate lights are in the tailgate.
Is there a harness allowing you to simply connect to those lights from boot area?

Number plate wires are on one plug with boot/tailgate handle switch.
I’ve tapped into the wires directly behind the connector as further along there is a control module of some sort, I think.
Relay and resistor secured to tailgate with screws and nuts.
Wires for number plate lights at the plug/connector are the two internal ones (second and third out of 4). Yellow/grey being positive feed.
Two external ones (first and forth out of 4) are for the handle switch.

Rear fogs and indicators are accessible from both boot sides or just one? If one, which one?

You running Saloon, aren’t you Steve?
They can’t be different than Avant’s.


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Mine is an Avant, I traced the pins using ELSAWin, there are a couple of different options so this is definitely correct for the rear lights being part LED or 'highline' as they are referred to in the software:-

Front Left Indicator
T12 - 12-pin connector black, connector B - onboard power supply control unit
grey / black
Pin 10

Front Right Indicator
T12 - 12-pin connector black, connector B - onboard power supply control unit
black / yellow
Pin 9

Front Left Fog
T10 - 10-pin connector black, connector A - onboard power supply control unit
black / yellow
Pin 7

Front Right Fog
T10 - 10-pin connector black, connector A - onboard power supply control unit
white
Pin 3


Rear Left Reversing Light
T15 - 15-pin connector brown, connector A - convenience system central control unit
blue / red
Pin 6

Rear Right Reversing Light
T15 - 15-pin connector brown, connector A - convenience system central control unit
black / green
Pin 8

Rear Left Fog Light
T32d - 32-pin connector blue, connector B - convenience system central control unit
green / red
Pin 9

Rear Right Fog Light
T32d - 32-pin connector blue, connector B - convenience system central control unit
green / blue
Pin 8

Rear Left Indicator
T32d - 32-pin connector blue, connector B - convenience system central control unit
red / grey
Pin 3

Rear Right Indicator
T32d - 32-pin connector blue, connector B - convenience system central control unit
red / grey
Pin 4

Warning, when I disconnected connector B on the onboard power supply control unit my headlight washers came on non stop! I disconnected the battery so I could unplug to access the wiring.

I have today had an error flash up for my front fog lights, reckon I may need to swap for a lower load resistor, I used some 6ohm resistors I had laying around which seem to be fine for the indicators, measured the fog bulb I took out and it's coming up at 0.5ohm, wondering if a straight wire would suffice? Might be risky.

The click is audible in mine, the relays are in a plastic box which is then tucked up behind the onboard power supply control unit which is in the driver's footwell. It doesn't really bother me though, could potentially wrap the box in wadding to dampen it if I was bothered.

 

[KrisKrk]

Mine is an Avant, I traced the pins using ELSAWin, there are a couple of different options so this is definitely correct for the rear lights being part LED or 'highline' as they are referred to in the software:-

Front Left Indicator
T12 - 12-pin connector black, connector B - onboard power supply control unit
grey / black
Pin 10

Front Right Indicator
T12 - 12-pin connector black, connector B - onboard power supply control unit
black / yellow
Pin 9

Front Left Fog
T10 - 10-pin connector black, connector A - onboard power supply control unit
black / yellow
Pin 7

Front Right Fog
T10 - 10-pin connector black, connector A - onboard power supply control unit
white
Pin 3


Rear Left Reversing Light
T15 - 15-pin connector brown, connector A - convenience system central control unit
blue / red
Pin 6

Rear Right Reversing Light
T15 - 15-pin connector brown, connector A - convenience system central control unit
black / green
Pin 8

Rear Left Fog Light
T32d - 32-pin connector blue, connector B - convenience system central control unit
green / red
Pin 9

Rear Right Fog Light
T32d - 32-pin connector blue, connector B - convenience system central control unit
green / blue
Pin 8

Rear Left Indicator
T32d - 32-pin connector blue, connector B - convenience system central control unit
red / grey
Pin 3

Rear Right Indicator
T32d - 32-pin connector blue, connector B - convenience system central control unit
red / grey
Pin 4

Warning, when I disconnected connector B on the onboard power supply control unit my headlight washers came on non stop! I disconnected the battery so I could unplug to access the wiring.

I have today had an error flash up for my front fog lights, reckon I may need to swap for a lower load resistor, I used some 6ohm resistors I had laying around which seem to be fine for the indicators, measured the fog bulb I took out and it's coming up at 0.5ohm, wondering if a straight wire would suffice? Might be risky.

The click is audible in mine, the relays are in a plastic box which is then tucked up behind the onboard power supply control unit which is in the driver's footwell. It doesn't really bother me though, could potentially wrap the box in wadding to dampen it if I was bothered.

Wow! It looks more complicated now than I thought it might be.

What connectors, pins was this about? Where do I find it, in the foot well? Under the steering wheel column trim? Seen some relays there.
Any chance of pictures?
How is that working?

 

[KrisKrk]

Ok, so got a few bits ordered and decided to experiment. As I had the rear indicator LED bulbs handy I decided to attack the rear right corner. Chopped the cable going to the cluster and attached a 4 pin plug and socket to the cables. Then wired in the relay with a pair of W5W bulb holders.

Can confirm there was no error, and no diagnostic pulse flash from the bulb

So packaged it up nicely (plastic box has been ordered)

And installed beautifully

I will now run this for a bit and see what happens.


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Steve, Do you have Bose sound system in your motor? My boot compartment on the right hand side has a car jack, tool set and some fuse boxes. On the left, I have some wiring but no amplifiers or visible modules. Wonder, what you've got there and why I haven't?

Also, what kind of connectors you got on each end of that box? Where did you plugged it in? Was it indicator? If so, I might get them also, not to snip any wiring.

 

[Simon968]

Kris,
Your radio module should be in the left side compartment, at least that's what I have in there (non-Bose).

 

[Steveredman]

For the rear:-

Yes I have Bose, the AMP/RADIO/SATNAV is all in the left, the TV Tuner is in the right (the grey box you can see in the pics). I removed the jack holder to give me a bit more space whilst playing around with this. Once I get it done permanently I will put the jack holder back.

For the front, the indicators are working fine, the front fogs are erroring, planning to swap the resistors for lower values shortly.

When I take the box out to do this I will take a few pics to show where the bits are.


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[Steveredman]

Just to mention as well, I made a decision not to mess with the cornering lights on mine (in the location where most have main beam) as they appear to fade on and off and figured this might cause odd results with the relay.


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[KrisKrk]

For the rear:-

Yes I have Bose, the AMP/RADIO/SATNAV is all in the left, the TV Tuner is in the right (the grey box you can see in the pics). I removed the jack holder to give me a bit more space whilst playing around with this. Once I get it done permanently I will put the jack holder back.

For the front, the indicators are working fine, the front fogs are erroring, planning to swap the resistors for lower values shortly.

When I take the box out to do this I will take a few pics to show where the bits are.


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Will check both boot sides and take some pictures.

Thank you for that.

My fogs are with 8Ohm (I think) 50Watt resistors and they are fine. No error

 

[Steveredman]

I used 6 ohm on each and have errors on both, am picking up 2 x 1 ohm from maplin shortly, hoping they sort it. This is purely for the error checking circuit, have you got resistors in parallel on your fogs as well? If so I would probably locate these near the lamps themselves due to heat buildup.


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[Steveredman]

Ok, here are a few pics, hopefully have most of it covered:-

Obviously take the 3 bolts holding the tray out, also remove the 2 that hold the fuse board in place, it's in the way if not.

The onboard power supply control unit is circled in red here.

Remove 2 x 10mm nuts to get better access, you can flip the unit over towards you so you can access the connectors and cables more easily (remember, disconnecting the 12pin connector set my headlamp washers on permanent so disconnect the battery first if you want to disconnect the plug).

Hopefully this is clear enough, I've circled the connectors I spliced in for the indicators in red, and for the fogs in green. This way I can remove the solution easily if required (just connect the connectors directly to bypass it).

Here is a pic of the box opened up as I was about to the replace the resistors, will refit this afternoon and test again!

FYI I used the ground point to the right of the footwell to provide ground to the device.


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