New Brake Disc Backing Plates (Splash Guard) Installation Guide

NeilMc1983

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Hi,

As my brake disc back plates (splash guards) are badly corroded and a real eye sore on my 2004 A3 2.0 FSI Sport 3dr, i've decided to purchas 4 new ones and i'm now in the process of painting them and installing them. i thought i'd post some pics and mini guide in case anyone wants to do the same. i didn't want to leave them standard black as this just highlights how small the brake discs are, painting them metallic gives the effect the discs are bigger and fills up the space in the alloys more. plus adding extra layers of primer and paint add extra protection to the metal guards as they're prone to rusting and corroding really quickly.

BEFORE
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ETCH PRIMED AND HALF PAINTED
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DRYING
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INSTALLED
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FINISHED
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Part Numbers:
O/S/F: 1K0615312F (£11.08 each from Audi Main Dealer, Skoda dealers are cheaper)
N/S/F: 1K0615311F
N/S/R: 1K0615611AB (£21.30 each from Audi Main Dealer, Skoda dealers are cheaper)
O/S/R: 1K0615612AB

these parts are used in loads other Audi's/VW's/Skoda's/Seat's etc.. so its worth worth shopping around if you don't have a trade account with TPS.

I've only installed the off side rear (rear right) so far. Here's a mini step by step guide how to remove the old guard from the rear which is 99% the same as guides for removing your wheel bearing...

GUIDE FOR THE REARS...

1)
Remove your wheel (five 17mm wheel nuts)

2) Pull off your brake calliper and cable tie it out of the way. (use a 15mm spanner to hold the part of the calliper where the bolts screw in as these just spin as you try removing the bolts, then use a 13mm spanner/socket to remove the bolts from the calliper)
image.jpg


3) Remove the little bolt which holds the brake disc to the wheel bearing/hub (T30 Torx head)
20160410_180529.jpg


4) Slide/manoeuvre the disc out from the wheel bearing and calliper bracket (if you can't remove the disc by sliding/manoeuvring out, leave it in and move on to step 5 then remove the disc)

5) Remove the calliper bracket. ( this is held in with big 2 bolts, you'll need a M14 Spline bit to remove them, they're not easy to remove as there's hardly any space at the back and if they're badly corroded like mine, you'll need a breaker bar and extension bar to crack them off)
20160401_140147.jpg


6) Remove the wheel bearing/hub. (this is held in by a huge bolt, which is hidden by a metal cap. using a screwdriver and hammer, tap around the cap to pop it off, then undo and remove the big bolt using a M18 Spline bit, it'll take some effort first time, i had to use a breaker bar and a scaffolding pole over it to get extra leverage and torque to crack it. once the bolt is out, the wheel bearing will slide off by pulling it and giving it a tiny tap on the back with a hammer)
20160410_180529.jpg


7) Remove the old backing plate/splash guard. (they are held in with 3 little T30 Torx bolts)

8) Install your new backing plate/splash guard then put everything back together by following the instructions in reverse. (before putting everything back together, now would be a good time to give everything a good clean, use a wire brush to remove rust. inspect your discs and pads, maybe paint your calliper, inspect your wheel bearing and add some grease to the ball bearings etc... just give everything a mini service)

DONE.

When i get round to doing the fronts, i'll add another guide, maybe it could be helpful to someone. sorry there wasn't more helpful pics in the guide, i didn't think to take more pics as i was going along as i was rushing to get home and watch the football :)
 
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Good guide, thanks for posting! My brake backplates could do with a refurb. Just to confirm, did you use the Plastikote metallic effect paint? It's a very good finish.
 
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Good guide, thanks for posting! My brake backplates could do with a refurb. Just to confirm, did you use the Plastikote metallic effect paint? It's a very good finish.

Hi mate, yes i used 'Plasti-Kote Brilliant Metallic', while this looks excellent straight out of the can, this stuff just doesn't dry! i left it for 2 days, and used a heat gun but some metallic still rubs off on your finger even though if feels totally dry. and when i added some lacquer it reacted and changed colour. so i've fitted them with no lacquer and they're holding up just fine after 60 miles of driving.

I did spray some of this Plasti-Kote on my old rusty one but with the nasty texture of the rust, it made my guards look like they were made out of tin foil! thats why i got some new smooth ones from Audi.

I've got some more pictures to add to the guide to make it more clearer but i can't see the button to edit the original post?