New B5 owner :)

Broken Byzan said:
they are talking US hp, which is for an unfathomable reason horsehizzle. You will struggle with low 300's with every bolt on mod possible. I made 330 with larger charge pipes, WMI, 3 inch turbo back, decent manifold, 610cc injectors 2 litre stroker, with forged everything and that was pretty much flat out, then it took a **** 10k later
Click to expand...

heat and back pressure are your enemy on these larger frame turbos shoved into small housings. The GTRS turbo itself will eeek 400 but in elim housing no chance
 
Mm well that's the 28rs idea down te drain then lol, I'm not looking to do internals. Maybe ko4-015 route
 
K04-015 is pointless, its basically the same thing as a K03-073 they fitted to the 190hp B6 A4.

For "300" you have essentially three options as i see it:

BBT K280 or K300 hybrid. Bolt on, but probably wont actually make 300, if your happy to settle for 270-280 then great. You'll still need a high flow exhaust manifold and TIP to get these figures though.

GTRS eliminator like you suggested, will do 300 with the right bolt ons, you'll again need big tip and big manifold though. It wont do anything like 400. Even a full frame proper GT2860RS turbo will only do 350-360ish on reliable UK dynos.

TFSI K04-064. Capable of >350, but running a sensible 300-320 seems perfect to maximise longevity etc. Usefully comes with its own manifold which flows well, but it does require adaptor plate and ofcourse the downpipe and intake stuff needs modified to suit.


With all of these options you run the risk of engine failure due to the torque output. If you map it sensibly and keep the torque down, it will probably survive, but you need to be aware and accept that you might well be unlucky. If you map it maxed out, full boost, all the torque 100% banzai mode, then ofcourse your hugely increasing the risk.

Fitting a set of rods mitigates these issues, and a rodded stock motor will do 400hp without too much trouble.


Personally, if i were starting again doing an A4 build from scratch, it would be a K280 turbo on a stock internals motor, with the exhaust/intercooler/intake etc sorted out and mapped sensibly for 260-270hp, or a bit more if it will do it without wringing its neck.

If i wanted ">300" then i'd do a TFSI-064 on a stock motor with rods.
 
Another little update guys, cause Halfords decides to open Sunday's now and can't get parts it's sort of a doing what you want to your car day which I love!
Also noticed after I cleaned the Oil sensor up change every possible fuse that it could be and even checked behind my cluster, it seems to be the bonnet?
If I turn the ignition on with the bonnet open, "OK"
If the bonnets closed now "oil sensor"
I've tested about 30 times even put the ignition on "Oil sensor" ignition off, pop the bonnet but not fully open, ignition on "OK"

Any ideas what I should change/check now?
 
I'm not sure if I'm honest, I should probably check my code and it looks okay but it comes with imperfections, scratches and a little dent :(
 
So I keep getting 00562, Oil sensor, I've cleaned this mother f**k dry with CONTACT CLEANER, check wiring for any snags or broken wires and nothing

00562 - Oil Sensor

-Short circuit or positive or open circuit
-Permanent
 
You may want to double check the continuity of the wiring from ecu to sensor just to be sure its the sensor.
 
I think I'm gonna have to take a trip to audi and get a sensor :/
 
Is there anything I can do to completely eliminate all problems apart from the sensor?
If I pop the bonnet the error on dash goes
It's the temp gauge that doesn't work, the level is fine
 
The bonnet "resets" the oil warning. So it makes sense it would go away with the bonnet open.

I thaught you said you'd changed the sensor? Did you use a fake one?
 
I have had countless issues with pattern parts on these cars. Had a coolant temp sensor last a couple of weeks. Always found the parts guy really friendly and helpful in my local dealer.
 
When i did my brothers i bought a used genuine one from a Golf rather than buying a new one.

I think for you, at this point, you need to just bite the bullet and buy the genuine part to properly rule it out.

Have you checked for 12v at the appropriate pins? and checked continuity between the sensor and the dash cluster?
 
Well, fitted the 015 today and everything lined up, fitted nice blah blah, test started it and the 19 banjo coolant is leaking, I'm not 100% sure from the actual turbo or the block feed but I think it's cause I didn't use new nylons, well I'm hoping anyway, I really hope the line isn't broken :(
Tomorrow I'm gonna unbolt it from the manny, and see if I can move it enough to put a socket on and use to nylons on
 
Run into another problem again guy, so my coolant flange decided to blow up on my way home on Sunday, so I've replaced that now and now the car temperature just shoots up, to the 120 mark, the coolsnt isnt bleeding, and when I squeeze the thermo pipe, it isn't hot/warm?

Someone help please!
 
You need to bleed the system. It you pull the heater hose clip off where it joins the bulkhead you'll see a little hole. You need to pull the hose off enough to uncover the hole. Keep topping up till its spurting a solid stream from there, then refit
 
I've only just got home, I think the car finished, after the heating problem, then car started to rattle when I blip the accelerator, and maybe between 1500 and 3000, when I turned it off to cool, it would struggle hard to start and my RED oil light would come on!
 
I dont quite follow your last post

I presume its overheated then youve drove it and its got noisy so stopped then let it cool down and now the oil pressure light has come on ?? Is the pipe at the bottom coming out from under the power steering pump hot ??

Is there any oil in the cooling system ?? Sounds like the cooler gone maybe ??
 
Okay, after a few days after my exhaust and turbo install, the temp gauge just shot up, I didn't even drive it and on my way home, the coolsnt flange blew up, I replaced it and tried to bleed it, the fan didn't kick in so I drove at 5mph to work to look at it, the squeezed all the coolsnt pipes to keep if they're hot cause the coolsnt was boiling and the top few were, just the bottom one where the comes off the rad and into the thermo housing isn't, it's normal temperature

I'm gonna assume that the oil pressure light come on cause the temp of te engine went to 120 and it didn't Fire up right away cause it knew something was wrong, and also the tapping driving at 120dg was the detonation sound so I decided to not drive it at all
 
It may be for instance that the coolant flange blew due to some other issue, such as the water pump failing. Given the guage shot up before the flange bloke, i'd be having a look there first.

With the engine fully cold, start it up and see if the rattling noise has gone away. If it has it might just be heat related and you just need to sort the overheating.

Running it so hot may have caused other damage, but you wont know until you fix the coolant side of things first.
 
Had a second opinion today and he's saying it's the water pump, cause there no circulation, also maybe a block cause he blew into the coolsnt pipe
 
cant blow into the bottom hose as the thermostat blocks the pipe.

Probably is the water pump though.

mine went a couple years back, luckily i noticed and managed to drive home without overheating it by putting the heaters in the car to maximum hot and driving home keeping the engine revs down.
 
Did your blow out cold air when the car was hot too?
 
No mine was blowing hot air the whole time, BUT mine broke in such a way that the impeller was still sort of attached and i think it was pumping okish at low RPM's but once over about 2k it would start to slip on the shaft. Sometimes the impellers break up completely.

I could drive along at 1500rpm with the temp showing 100c and holding there, if i raised the revs to 2000rpm it would start climbing very quickly.

It will be immediately obvious when you remove the pump if thats the problem or not.
 
Right so I changedy thermo today and nothing's changed still overheating, I've tried bleeding the cap off until fan kicks in way, and also the heater core way, no water is passing through the heater core pipe anyway so it's gotta be water pump right?
 
I can blow into the heater core pipe with the little bleed hole and fluid would come out the other side, and the heaters would heat up for a second, then go cold when I stop blowing
 
Well I got the car back today guys and MrClutch are saying its head gasket, they assumed because the cars still overheating, and there's just steam going into the expansion bottle but I have no yogurt stuff around my oil cap, is there anyway I can check to see if it is 100% head gasket?
 
hi guys just recently bought a 1.8 non turbo and for some reason the heater does not blow out hot air could anyone help me as need heat in cold weather lol
 
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