New 8P2 owner - a couple of minor issues

[Andy_M]

Hi,

New to this forum so 'hi'. I've just bought a 57 plate 8P2 Sportback 2.0TDI (140 PS) from a friend (at a good price) as he is selling up to build an extension, and I needed a bigger car than my 2-seater MR2 to take my new-born baby around in. Very much enjoying the TDI torque so far.

The car is in pretty good condition but there are a couple of little (I think) issues that I want to resolve and a query or two:

1. FAULT CODES - Firstly a bit of advice. I've been reading about VCDS and I'm half tempted just to put my hand in my pocket to get a new RossTech cable (I'm considering some mapping/coding in the future anyway). However in the meantime I have a normal OBD2 reader, will this get access to all the error codes/reset, or do some of them specifically only show via full VAG-COM software? In my MR2 I've used this hardware and the DashCommand app to good effect so hoping it'll be the same on this car to diagnose problems?

2. DRIVERS DOOR LOCK - The drivers door lock is temperamental when used on the fob. It maybe takes 4-5 goes to get it to unlock (by locking and unlocking it a few times). I've had a read around and it seems this is a fairly common problem, however the resolution to it seems to vary. Some of the threads I've read suggest a new door catch unit is needed (£140 ish new), some just a failed solenoid (much cheaper). Is there any way I can test this to work out which I need? It only does it on the fob on that door, and is absolutely fine on the key. Will this throw specific fault codes that I will be able to read to identify the error and therefore the part I need?

3. ABS/ESP LIGHTS COMING ON - Again this seems to be fairly common. I've got the ABS and ESP lights coming on intermittently (I need to full test it but I think it's under hard-ish acceleration and cornering, definitely not braking) but when I switch the engine off and on again it all resets fine. From what I've read it seems like this might be an acceleration sensor? Again, I'm assuming some fault code may point me in the right direction to identify this so I can pin down the part I need?

4. TYRE ROTATION - The rears on this car are looking pretty new, however the fronts only have a couple of mm left on them. How quick do the tyres wear front/rear on these cars? On my MR2 the rears wear at almost exactly 2:1 compared to the fronts (i.e. you replace all four, then just the fronts, then all four, etc...). As on this car the tyres can be rotated front to back I was considering swapping them round to even up the wear but wasn't sure if I'd end up just needing to buy some new rears almost straight away anyway (in which case I'll just do them now and leave them on the front). Does that make sense? Hopefully.

5. BOSE SOUND SYSTEM - Is there an easy way to tell if this is installed on the car on not? The build sticker seems to imply it has (if I've read the code right) but it doesn't sound like it's particularly upgraded listening to it on the way to work this morning.

6. IPHONE/AUX CONNECTION - The car has a (I think) Concert 2+ double-din head unit in, however there is no connection in the glove box. Am I right in thinking a Connects2 box will allow me to set this up on the CD Changer setting with my iPhone? I'm just weighing it up as I'm half considering an basic I.C.E. install in which case I'd probably go for a compatible DAB head unit anyway, but I'm looking at the options.


Advice gratefully received. I have a little experience spattering my MR2 so plan to try and get these all resolved myself if I can to save on garage fees.

Thanks,
Andy

 

[DJ_26]

Welcome to the forum!

Regarding point 5: When you switch on the headunit, the word "BOSE" appears on the headunit screen (it does anyway for my 2005 A3 8P1). Secondly, there should be BOSE grills on the door speakers. Thirdly, If you open the boot and pull the passenger side carpet to one side (you may have to remove more than just the carpet) you should be able to see the subwoofer that has a big BOSE logo on it. Furthermore, the build sticker in the spare wheel well may have an options code for the BOSE sound system when you check it with the "options code decoder" that we have on the 8P section of the forum (not sure about this, my car has bose and the decoder doesn't appear to have found it). Finally a check with VCDS might tell you if you have the bose system.

Regarding point 6: Yes you can get an adaptor/CD changer interface box to plug into the CD changer socket. I use a system from XCarlink. I would probably go with an aftermarket set-up as it has more features and you can get a proper screen to scroll through tracks. But if you are adamant that you want to keep the standard headunit, then the connects 2 or XCarlink products are fine.

 

[Matt268uk]

Welcome to AS-N Andy

Point 1, Regarding reading and resetting fault codes i'm guessing the generic obd2 readers can reset some basic functions but with VCDS you'll be able to perform full scan of all the modules on your car with specific fault codes generated. You can also perform all mods yourself regarding coding. Nigel (@NHN) can supply a genuine cable at the best price you'll find anywhere. Armed with a genuine cable you'll be able to download the full version of VCDS and have all the updates free when they become available with support from Ross-Tech. Don't be tempted with a non genuine cable.....

Point 2, You can ask Mike (@mjr901) he can supply AS-N members with parts and most time with a discount. Right part first time with no messing about. You'll find the parts request at the top of the page across the top. There's also the classifieds section where can can place a wanted ad.

As for other questions i'm sure you'll get plenty of people coming along this evening to give you some sound advice.

Matt.

 

[Dan-Jnr]

Point 3. The traction control light will come on if you have poor tyres/low tread on the front when flooring it, especially in corners.

Point 4. Its a false economy swapping your tyres around on these cars. Just replace the fronts as they get down to the wear marker. The rears wont wear as fast as the fronts, and don't bother with budget tyres, you'll be under-steering off on your next blast out.

 

[Andy_M]

Welcome to the forum!

Regarding point 5: When you switch on the headunit, the word "BOSE" appears on the headunit screen (it does anyway for my 2005 A3 8P1). Secondly, there should be BOSE grills on the door speakers. Thirdly, If you open the boot and pull the passenger side carpet to one side (you may have to remove more than just the carpet) you should be able to see the subwoofer that has a big BOSE logo on it. Furthermore, the build sticker in the spare wheel well may have an options code for the BOSE sound system when you check it with the "options code decoder" that we have on the 8P section of the forum (not sure about this, my car has bose and the decoder doesn't appear to have found it). Finally a check with VCDS might tell you if you have the bose system.

Regarding point 6: Yes you can get an adaptor/CD changer interface box to plug into the CD changer socket. I use a system from XCarlink. I would probably go with an aftermarket set-up as it has more features and you can get a proper screen to scroll through tracks. But if you are adamant that you want to keep the standard headunit, then the connects 2 or XCarlink products are fine.

Thanks DJ_26. Okay so based on your description I'm 99.99% sure I don't have the Bose system. The thing that confused me initially was that when I ran the build sticker codes through I got this result from one of them...

8RU = Sound system with subwoofer "branded"

I just assumed this could only be the Bose. Oh well. Thanks for the info on the XCarlink too. The more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards an aftermarket headunit to be honest, partly for the reasons you mention.

Welcome to AS-N Andy

Point 1, Regarding reading and resetting fault codes i'm guessing the generic obd2 readers can reset some basic functions but with VCDS you'll be able to perform full scan of all the modules on your car with specific fault codes generated. You can also perform all mods yourself regarding coding. Nigel (@NHN) can supply a genuine cable at the best price you'll find anywhere. Armed with a genuine cable you'll be able to download the full version of VCDS and have all the updates free when they become available with support from Ross-Tech. Don't be tempted with a non genuine cable.....

Point 2, You can ask Mike (@mjr901) he can supply AS-N members with parts and most time with a discount. Right part first time with no messing about. You'll find the parts request at the top of the page across the top. There's also the classifieds section where can can place a wanted ad.

As for other questions i'm sure you'll get plenty of people coming along this evening to give you some sound advice.

Matt.

Thanks Matt. Well it turns out generic OBD2 readers can't read the codes in question. My reader connected find and all the dash/gauges work so I think it's hooking up nicely. However running the diagnostics it's not showing any pending, active or stored codes (which is a good thing) so I think anything to do with the lateral/longitudinal sensors is probably a VAG only code. I've sent NHN a message regarding the cables as I think this is probably the way I'm going to go.

Regarding parts, great, thanks for the heads up. Once I know exactly what bits I need I'll be sure to try Mike. It's great that members get this kind of support!

Point 3. The traction control light will come on if you have poor tyres/low tread on the front when flooring it, especially in corners.

Point 4. Its a false economy swapping your tyres around on these cars. Just replace the fronts as they get down to the wear marker. The rears wont wear as fast as the fronts, and don't bother with budget tyres, you'll be under-steering off on your next blast out.

Cheers Dan. To be honest the tyres aren't totally shot (just coming to the end of their life) and the light popped this morning on a positive camber (but quite tight bend) and I'm 100% sure the wheels couldn't have lost traction. I think it said something like "fault" as well rather than just activating because of a loss of traction. It didn't come on during my drive home today at all, however the previous experience I had was coming onto a motorway on a downhill slip road (fairly fast). I did a bit more reading earlier and my symptoms seem to be similar to those who have had acceleration sensors faults? As above, unfortunately my current code reader can't seem to access any faults from the ESP system so I'm going to have to wait until I can get it read properly to pin this one down I think.

Re: Tyres. Thanks for the info. I'll just get them replaced. Totally agree on budget tyres, I used to have a Civic Type-R (EP3) which came with budget tyres on when I got it and it killed the driving experience. Why anyone would put that rubbish on powerful FWD cars I don't know! I'll do some reading around on here and see what tyres are well regarded as it's a very different setup to my other car.



Also, I know I should probably post this up in the VCDS section, but can anyone quickly enlighten me about what exactly can be done with this system. On my 'to do' list is diagnose faults/clear warning, reset service intervals, add/remove features (like puddle lights, EGR, etc...) and upload a map (a friend of a friend is a very experienced 170PS tuner and has offered to tweak a 140PS map for me to put on). Can the Ross-Tech cable + VCDS combo do all the above? Thanks.

 

[Andy_M]

Okay so I've managed to get some extra info on VCDS so that's all good.

Quick update on the door lock situation if anyone can help...

I've just been testing it at lunch today and I've noticed you can hear an audible click in the drivers door, even if it fails to unlock. I don't know what that means other than that the fob is working and power seems to be getting to the door. I wondered if this might give a clue to the but I need to replace? Any thoughts on this as of the issues it's the most annoying day to day. Thanks.

 

[Andy_M]

On the ABS/ESP issue... well the warning popped again on my way home from work yesterday and on the way in this morning. Both times here it seems on fairly flat, not that fast road so I'm a bit confused again. Spoke to the previous owner and he's also said that he only had it happen when it was "cold and damp" (he also said the same about the drivers door lock).

Is there somewhere that water can commonly ingress on these cars that I should check?

 

[ab1702]

Hi,
Regarding your door lock issue I had exactly the same issue when I pressed the fob whereas I ended up not being able to open the door from the outside at all as mine doesn't have a key hole so I had to go inside and pull the handle.
I had a read around the forums etc and decided to change the door lock mechanism as seemed a lot of people had the same problem. I could hear a slight noise on mine when pressing the fob but now I've changed the lock mechanism the problem is sorted and the sound is much of a louder click now that it is actually unlocking. I only went for a 2nd hand replacement though for £30 so I suppose I'm running the risk of it doing it again but it was about 4 month ago and still going strong.

 

[Andy_M]

Hi,
Regarding your door lock issue I had exactly the same issue when I pressed the fob whereas I ended up not being able to open the door from the outside at all as mine doesn't have a key hole so I had to go inside and pull the handle.
I had a read around the forums etc and decided to change the door lock mechanism as seemed a lot of people had the same problem. I could hear a slight noise on mine when pressing the fob but now I've changed the lock mechanism the problem is sorted and the sound is much of a louder click now that it is actually unlocking. I only went for a 2nd hand replacement though for £30 so I suppose I'm running the risk of it doing it again but it was about 4 month ago and still going strong.

Thanks. I'll get pricing up some units from breakers as I'd probably go down that route too and risk it. I'm hoping to get a VCDS code read on it over the next few days which should help pinpoint things a bit more but I'm tempted to strip the door and have a nosey at what is going on.

How easy/hard/long a job was the actuator replacement?

Cheers.

 

[ab1702]

Not that hard but I found some sort of guide on here and YouTube I think, took me about Half hour altogether. You'll need a spline bit to take the big bolts out of the side of the door near the lock, door panel off and then panel underneath that one has to come off aswell which was really tight but just have to pull at it. Then there's a couple of plugs to pull off and unhook the door handle and it'll come out.remember to try the new lock before you put it all back together though.

 

[Andy_M]

Thanks. I'll see if I can find the guide but it sounds fairly straight forward. Pretty sure I have the full range of spline bits in my socket set but will double check.