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Neep more control arms help - WITH PICS

voteforpedro Nov 1, 2008

  1. voteforpedro

    voteforpedro Member

    Firstly I fooked the TRE upper 13mm bolt proper fooked and... well, have a look. Now how the hell do I get the rest of the threads out? I'm not going to be able to get a drill in that small space...


    Secondly, how far does the drive shaft press into the hub? You can see how much of the "metal" is showing behind the hub and how much of the splines are showing from the front. I undid the 24mm bolt on the other side and peered in and it looks about the same, so... *shrugs*



    And finally, the C-link/drop link I got in the kit is different to the ones I have on the car at the moment. They don't seem to have supplied the right nuts and bolts to attach them too, which is nice.

    My old ones looked like this:


    The news one look like this:



    The old ones have two small ball joints whereas the new ones have just two bushings. Both bushings are different so I don't really know which way round they go, if they are indeed the right ones for the car?

    Finally, here's a picture of my dog after we dressed him in my missus's hoody.


    Sorry about the lipstick!
  2. Broken Byzan

    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User quattro Audi A4

    I would just change the TRE tbh for the work involved etc. Unless you unscrew it from the rack and are lucky enough for the remaining thread to be loose enough to unscrew.

    The CV will pull in so the slots should be inside the hub carrier so the ABS sensor can see the slots to know the wheels speed..Looking at yours it looks about right.

    As for the "c" links they are the right ones but they are the newer ones, as the ones you have on the car are the original old style ones. I assume you had new bolts with the arm kit? If you did you will find some of the old bolts will be the correct size/length to mount the drop links on.IIRC they are the old top arm bolts/nuts

    I do have a few spare TRE but they in storage at the mo, once i have somwhere to live you would be more than welcome to one or both

    Oh and as for the dog, green aint his colour,lol
  3. voteforpedro

    voteforpedro Member

    Do you reckon I can just pull the TRE and remaining threads? I didn't think of that lol. It was too cold for logical thinking. I reckon some molegrips should free the threads from the TRE, considering both the TRE and bolt were new.

    I thought the CV looked right - just wanted to be sure. It won't push in any more.

    The C-links just look a bit odd to me. I suppose their purpose is to fix the ARB to the control arm, so as long as they bolt up OK it should be fine?

    The original bolts are knackered thanks to brute force POWAH.

    Thanks. :)
  4. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

    A lot of the bolts are specified to be changed with the arms, which is why most arm kits come with the bolts.

    That TRE bolt doesnt actually need up that tight, the pinch bolt does the majority of the holding, the one you've snapped is only there to ensure the joint is fully seated before you do up the pinch bolt.
    IIRC its only specced to 15-20nm. As byzan says just remove the tre and you should be able to get it out.

    The C-Links on my 96 were like the later style ones, as were the replacements, One difference would be that the later ones should only be tightened fully with the suspesion compressed to its normal ride height, as otherwise you'll have the bushes permenantly twisted and they wont last very long.

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