1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

My shopping list and budget

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by vetch, Apr 27, 2009.

  1. vetch
    Offline

    vetch S3

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2009
    Messages:
    430
    Likes Received:
    0
    Right then, my S3 has been in my ownership for a few weeks now, and Ive decided I'll be keeping it for a while. Ive just sold my previous car, so I have some money to throw at the car.

    The car is already remapped, has decent wheels (thats my wheel in my avatar) and the bodywork is as good as any car Ive owned.

    My budget is £1500-£2000, but that is to include labour for any parts fitted, and the closer I can keep it to £1500 the better.

    The car is already lowered, but I'm 99% certain that its uprated springs on OEM dampers. So it sits nice and low and mean but rides like a pig - bumpy, crashy and unsettled.

    So the first item on my list is shocks and springs. Coilovers are for the track guys and wannabe track guys- I do my driving on urban, A & B roads and motorways. I want a ride at least as comfortable as the OEM setup but with better feel and handling. I don't think thats an unrealistic ambition? Billy B8s and H&R springs are a favourite on here, but that would be close to half my budget gone, so I was thinking of something more modest like the Weitec GT or KW kit (matched springs and shocks)? What do we think? Any alternatives?

    The suspension is also creaking on occasion, so I'm assuming the bushes are knackered. I plan to get ALL the bushes replaced, I don't see a problem with using OEM bushes all round. Plus droplinks. What about wishbones and balljoints? Is it worthwhile changing these? Any other suspension bits that I could freshen up while my mechanic is doing the above? (I realise its hard to know what might be worn without looking underneath my car, Im just looking for pointers).

    Other items that are on my shopping list are:

    Braided brakes lines (approx £50)
    Forge DV (approx £90)
    N75 "j" valve (approx £30) - my APY engine should be ok with this
    Uprated brake pads all round, nothing too hardcore - (approx £120)

    Two items I haven't mentioned are ARBs and tie bars - I can live with the understeer, so I'm not keen on spending £100's on uprated ARBs. I do realise adjustable tie bars are essential to get proper camber, and I can factor these in. Id be interested to know who can provide the cheapest adjustable tie bars??

    Various things Ive asked have been covered before, but Id really appreciate all your comments and opinions, as they may well determine where my money goes.:salute:
    #1
  2. MintyS3
    Offline

    MintyS3 Works 60% the time, Everytime.

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2008
    Messages:
    1,581
    Likes Received:
    4
    2k?

    Get yourself the Brembo GT kit.
    #2
  3. <tuffty/>
    Offline

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2008
    Messages:
    15,739
    Likes Received:
    1,273
    Bilstien B8's and H&R 25mm all day long. Don't worry about the ARB's at this point in time and get yourself a set of KW tie bars.

    Have a word with Damian at DPM (http://audi-sport.net/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=113) and he will sort you out.

    Looking at your avatar, it looks like your car may be lower than 25mm, maybe 30/35mm. If you want handling, go H&R 25mm else ask Damian for advice. Just be aware that the sump sits low on the S3 and too low a drop may mean you hit it if you aren't careful.

    Brakes depends on what you want to do but minimum should be DS2500 pads and Motul 600 fluid, Black Diamond grooved front discs if you want to replace them are good. Brembos with 323mm Cupra discs from Badger 5 if you have about 900 quid spare :)

    Leave the rears std as the S3 is front heavy. I run DS2500's on std calipers and 312mm setup, OEM rear discs with Padgit road pads.

    <tuffty/>
    #3
  4. jimbobery
    Offline

    jimbobery S3

    Joined:
    May 6, 2008
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Adjustable tie bars are always mentioned alongside kits/coilovers that drop the rear about 30mm. The Weitec Ultra GT kit only drops the rear 15mm. I've been thinking recently if it is still necessary to get adjustable tie bars with this?

    I'm guessing it'll still throw the camber out with standard bars, but it would be nice to avoid tie bars if upgrading on a budget. Equally I appreciate upgrading is pointless if the setup is all wrong?

    vetch - have you thought about doing some of the work yourself to save some money? Front suspension (especially ARB) is a bit more involved due to dropping the subframe, but the rear suspension all appears to be faily simple.
    #4
  5. <tuffty/>
    Offline

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2008
    Messages:
    15,739
    Likes Received:
    1,273
    I'd watch the stated drop on springs tbh, I have Eibach Pro springs that are 25mm front and 20mm rear and it doesn't look that much lower than std.

    I think the S3 is 10/15mm lower than a std A3 from the factory so I don't think a 15mm drop will actually do anything at all, it may even raise the car!!

    Having negative camber on the rear is no bad thing but I think the std camber settings are like -1.5deg and much more than that puts more strain on the arms (they have been known to snap) and will mean less chance putting the power down...

    I have KW's on mine and had them set at -0.5deg which if I was honest makes it a little oversteery in hard cornering for me so I might get them set at somewhere near std (-1.25deg maybe) to help it out.

    Thats a personal preference though, you must also get the toe sorted as fitting tie bars and adjusting them beyond factory camber will put that out too.

    <tuffty/>
    #5
  6. voorhees
    Offline

    voorhees Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2005
    Messages:
    15,020
    Likes Received:
    1,146
    I do not think tie bars are essential as I had my suspension upgraded by Stealth Racing and they said not to bother even though the cash was there for them,I haven't noticed any adverse tyre wear.
    Brembo's are good but at a price,get the ferodo pads and black diamond discs combo's as they are a good alternative so I hear.
    #6
  7. jimbobery
    Offline

    jimbobery S3

    Joined:
    May 6, 2008
    Messages:
    257
    Likes Received:
    0
    Really? If thats is the case then adjustable tie bars shouldn't be needed???

    This is good to hear. Are tie bars literally for adjusting camber for personal preference then, rather than being a requirement when lowering to put the camber back to normal?
    #7
  8. vetch
    Offline

    vetch S3

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2009
    Messages:
    430
    Likes Received:
    0
    Having spoken to Ess Three from this very forum, plus checking my own lowered car, and speaking to a local VW/Audi specialist I am now in no doubt that ANYONE looking to lower their S3 should change to adjustable tie bars. The camber on my rear wheels is way out (its lowered approx 25-30mm on standard tie bars). The tyres arent making the correct contact with the road.

    So, in keeping with my budget, I shall be sacrificing new uprated ARBs for a set if Forge or KW adjustable tie bars.
    #8
  9. Andy_S3
    Offline

    Andy_S3 Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2007
    Messages:
    722
    Likes Received:
    0
    Keep us updated with how you get on with this mate - ive just found out my O/S rear spring has snapped so im thinking of going down a similar route to you - with a similar budget.
    #9
  10. vetch
    Offline

    vetch S3

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2009
    Messages:
    430
    Likes Received:
    0
    Will do mate, I've pretty much decided on what I'm going to buy. Ive yet to get quotes from my local specialist though (for fitting), so that will ultimately decide what I get.
    #10
  11. Dennis Moeller
    Offline

    Dennis Moeller Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2007
    Messages:
    444
    Likes Received:
    1
    I can definately vouch for B8's and H&R. YOU WON'T REGRET IT mate!!

    Imo adjustable tie bare are needed not only for adjusting rear wheel camber, avoiding skipping rear wheels, avoiding excessive tire wear and snapping OEM tie bars (due to more stress from lowering) BUT also for looks. My car now looks totally squatted when you see it from behind. Doesn't really add to overall look of the car.

    ARB's makes a huge difference also. I haven't fitted the front bar yet but the rear ARB from the Golf R32 made such a difference alone that I can't wait untill I find the time to visit the garage again. Makes a much more composed car with perfect balance going through corners and/or braking in to corners.

    Oem bushes in as many places as you can get at will make a nice difference too. Tidy up things even further...

    I'm also concerned about the brakes on my car (as we all know that standard S3 brakes aren't really capable), but since I recently purchased Rial Daytona wheels which leaves nearly no clearance for bigger callipers I have to settle for Black D. rotors, Ferrodo DS and Neuspeed braded hoses. I'll leave the rear Oem but I will change pads. As people in here tells us it will change brake abillity to a degree that's livable and will even hold up on the occasional track day...

    Good luck and as others have stated...get some help from a mate and do the most of the work yourselves. It's really simple and all you will have to do is to read some DIY's and maybe be prepaired to spend a day or two in the garage.

    My pennies...
    #11
  12. S3 HODGE
    Offline

    S3 HODGE Brown passenger seat.

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2009
    Messages:
    1,202
    Likes Received:
    1
    I think you should get a friend or someone that you know to help fit the parts for you as its really not a hard job, Or maybe someone on this forum lives near you and are willing to help out?....This way you could spend more on parts....:yes:

    Suspention wise you will need to buy adjustible tie bars to save you money in the long run on tyres and the chance of OEM parts snapping... Also if youre thinking of purchasing £1500-£2000 of stuff, try to find it all on one website and ring them up and ask for a possible discount. Ring around a few sites and find the cheapest by quoteing what other company's/there competitors had quoted you.
    Good luck mate hope your happy with what you choose.
    #12
  13. Andy_S3
    Offline

    Andy_S3 Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2007
    Messages:
    722
    Likes Received:
    0
    Have been quoted £170 all in including fitting for two new genuine Audi rear springs. :scared2: What do I do? Pay that or go the whole hog and replace the whole suspension, ARBs, tie bars etc...
    #13
  14. vetch
    Offline

    vetch S3

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2009
    Messages:
    430
    Likes Received:
    0
    Depending on the price of the springs, that seems expensive? Ive been quoted £120 to fit new shocks and springs all round, thats with me supplying the parts obviously.
    #14
  15. Andy_S3
    Offline

    Andy_S3 Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2007
    Messages:
    722
    Likes Received:
    0
    I may try and knock the price down, but I dont want to spend money on new springs, only to take them off again a few months later to replace the whole system. Im just not sure if I can justify spending £1500 on doing the full works. I mean is it really money well spent? Im not a hardcore speed freak, not by a long shot! So bloody confused!
    #15
  16. s3_kev
    Offline

    s3_kev Stage2'd!!!!!!

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2008
    Messages:
    1,999
    Likes Received:
    18
    if your doing the shocks springs and tie-bars, then you will need a four wheel alignment so if i were you id seriously think about adding arb's to as otherwise you will need another four wheel alignment after fitting the arb's as you have o drop the front subframe.
    then just do the brakes for now
    #16
  17. vetch
    Offline

    vetch S3

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2009
    Messages:
    430
    Likes Received:
    0
    Djakster - for me, doing the suspension is a necessity, the current suspension is very worn and giving a very poor ride/drive. So, its just how much can I afford/want to spend rather than should I/shouldn't I. If it didn't need doing, I wouldn't even think about spending the sort of money I'm intending to. But once its done, nothing should need replacing for the entire time I own the car.

    S3_Kev, from my understanding the main reasons for replacing the ARBs is for reducing bodyroll and understeer (if the size ratio of rear to front is suitably different to the OEM setup). I can put up with understeer and slight bodyroll. I'm not a racer or a track boy, I need my suspension to be comfortable yet enable the car to handle well. Fresh bushes, droplinks etc all round plus new springs, dampers and adjustable tie bars to suit the lowered setup should give me what I want. I may or may not fit uprated ARBs in the future, but right now, the £300-400 could be better spent elsewhere.
    #17

Share This Page