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My S3 Thread

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Sam_, May 10, 2011.

  1. Andrew@A.L.D

    Andrew@A.L.D May add NOS to 600+bhp?

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    A no brainer really. I would go E85 if we had it here just because it's cheaper to buy but I'm sure are government would fix a extra tax for it. Worth it for the extra power you can get with it. I think it also burns cooler?
     
  2. snowy

    snowy Crunching Gears

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    Elf E85 @ £202.50 (+ £30ish fuel duty) for 50L
     
  3. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Yeah, it's win win I think really. Runs cooler, higher octane and cheaper. Smells nice too!

    Ouch! It's about A$1.25 a litre here last time I looked.
     
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  4. StaceyS3

    StaceyS3 Well-Known Member

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    I did previously look into the double ported valve cover and was going to have another look today as iirc the ID of -10 fittings is 14mm so will actually be less flow with one, only thing is that I think it fouls on the fuel rail, will check and confirm later if get a chance :)

    So wish we had E85 readily available over here....for the good of the planet of coarse ;)
     
  5. Andrew@A.L.D

    Andrew@A.L.D May add NOS to 600+bhp?

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  6. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Yeah true. I run AN10 now which seems ok and *should* be ok with the bigger blower as the motor should be a bit tighter so less blow by. We'll see.

    Oh, of course I'm running E85 to save the planet ;)

    This guy wins...

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Picked up a few bits today.

    Firstly the manifold and downpipe that I dropped off at Hi Octane for their "Turbine" coating which is rated to 1300c. It's not the usual creme or black and I quite like it :) Doesn't look as nice as the raw metal and welds but function over form and all that...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Also bought a new Hemi TB. I'd already bought one but it was used and didn't have the lip on it for the hose to grip to under boost. I managed to find an OEM Mopar one on eBay for a good price ($117 vs $200 from IE) from the states with the all important lip.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the link if anyone needs it:
    Mopar 53032801AC Fuel Injection Throttle Body Throttle Body | eBay
     
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  8. antowens

    antowens Car Nut
    Regional Rep

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    i like it mate looks smart i love getting new bits for the car like a kid at christmas
     
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  9. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    So the ID2000s arrived yesterday but there was a problem (of course). The reason ID2000s are so well regarded is the fact that they sell the injectors in matched sets that flow <1% of each other at all openings. This means they work well at low pulse widths (for a 2200cc injector!) and idle well. I bought a set that had one injector that was 2% out but had just been serviced by Injector Dynamics. A quick call to them and I could get a <1% replacement for $168. They use the Denso plugs so I got some Denso to EV1 adapters and 4 new o-rings while I was there (they were missing).

    Anyway, it all arrived yesterday and the guy sent 3 injectors I was expecting and one that had a different serial number. Damn it. To make it worse, Injector Dynamics forgot the adapters and o-rings. It turns out the unexpected injector I got was in fact also 2% out. So I have 2 sets of 2 matched injectors essentially. I think what I'll do is sell them as 2 sets and buy another 3 new matched injectors from ID. Nightmare. Luckily it's common to sell pairs as they rotary lot here love them.

    Oh, and there's some serious color clash going on...

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Nothing better than checking a courier tracking page every day waiting for bits to arrive. I feel weird with nothing "on the way". I have to be a bit more sly as I'm not meant to be buying anything for a while according to the mrs. Shh...
     
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  11. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    I got a decent tax refund so bought a few more fuelling parts. I ended up ordering 3 brand new ID2000s with the shorter grey (that purple is not cool) hats (48/56mm) to match the OEM injector length so I don't need the spacers. It made sense just to have one less thing to worry about, so I'll have 4 brand new injectors.

    Radium High Volume Surge Tank
    I'd been looking at various options for a surge tank. Originally I was going to go for twin 044s up front where the washer bottle is. After talking to a few people that probably wasn't a good idea. I thought about a Radium twin 044 setup mounted in the boot but 044s are so loud it'd get annoying I think. So I went for a regular high volume tank from Radium instead and going to run a Holley E85 pump. I ended up ordering through Issam at INA for a good price. The plan is to try and run AN8 supply and return lines.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Holley Dominator 12-1400 Fuel Pump
    This is new pump design from Holley. It flows nearly as much as two 044s but is way way quieter (you can barely hear them). It's essentially two pumps in one housing. I'm going to run one pump all the time and use a hobbs style boost switch to fire the other pump up over a set boost psi.

    [​IMG]

    Genesis HD Fuel Pump Loom
    The Holley pump draws 23 amps max which is just over the limit for one genesis loom but I want to trigger one pump based on boost input so I've bought a second one which will tap into the stock fuel pump wiring but will also be wired in series with a hobbs style boost switch.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    More parts ordered. After speaking with Injector Dynamics, they recommend <10 microns filters after the pump so I went with a 6 micron fibreglass element filter (safer than paper) from Fuelab. I went with a 75 micron stainless pre pump filter. The 6 micron has a check valve built in which is good too. Save cranking the engine over and over waiting for pressure to build up.

    [​IMG]

    75 micron (pre pump):
    Fuelab 82823-1 Fuelab 818/828 Series In-Line Fuel Filters - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

    6 micron (pre rail):
    Fuelab 85831-1 Fuelab 848/858 Series Intergrated In-Line Fuel Filters/Check Valves - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

    I'm going to convert to AN8 for supply and return lines. More than likely using anodised aluminium lines.
     
  13. Prawn

    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    Some pretty serious kit going in now Sam!

    Going to be pretty beasty when it's done I'm sure!
     
  14. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Yeah for sure. I'm looking forward to fitting it all. That's the best bit.
     
  15. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Some bits arrived today :)

    [​IMG]

    Should do the trick :)
     
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  16. Drue1

    Drue1 Member

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    How much did the clutch cost ?
     
  17. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Pretty sure it was the best part of $1,800.
     
  18. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    So over the last few days I developed a fairly hefty water leak (had to top up 500mL - 1L per trip) and it was becoming pretty annoying as I'd have to wait to top it up of course.

    I couldn't be bothered to look at it yesterday as I'd just got a new lens so I was playing with that:

    [​IMG]

    Not sure anyone here's a photographer but it's the legendary Canon 85 1.2. A great lens.

    Anyhow, today I took a look. My original suspicions were that it was one of the heater matrix hoses or connectors as it appeared to be coming from the back of the engine bay. From underneath it pretty much confirmed that as the trail of drips and marks pointed to that area. Dropped the car back down, gave them a feel after taking off the tip and breather setup and yep, they were damp. Once I got the connectors off the bulkhead, it was fairly obvious what the cause was. One of the o-rings on the connectors was buggered. I checked both but the other looked fine:

    [​IMG]

    Luckily I had a spare as I bought the 90 degree connectors for the new engine to clear the turbine housing on the GT35. Borrowed the o-ring from one of those and was good to go. There were no leaks after the test drive so fingers crossed it's sorted...
     
  19. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Some brand new rubber today. 255/40/17 AD08R all round, fresh off the boat from Japan. The new spec tyre is meant to wear better than old (even though it's got a 180 tread wear rating) and be nicer on the road. The guy at the tyre place was saying one of his customers got 40,000km from a set on an Evo. Good going.

    The car feels way better with them on. My old tyres were badly worn and the fronts were scalloped. They were scalloped when I got them (used) but it's hard to tell without putting air into them.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Being 255, there's a slight bit of poke up front but nothing life threatening. I still need to get the wings pulled at some stage.

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Prawn

    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    I want some stupidly massive tyres too :( Damn my silly little arches.

    Looks awesome Sam. Big tyres are 10x cooler than silly stretch!

    How's the engine build coming along?
     
  21. StaceyS3

    StaceyS3 Well-Known Member

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    That is without a doubt where I want to end up tyre and wheel wise as grip and handling I expect would be brilliant on them, plus sits and looks brilliant :)

    Just gotta finish off my 18' ad08's that have loads of tread left
     
  22. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Cheers! I don't think I could get away with them without the super firm suspension though. It's not too uncomfortable but there's just not much movement.

    On the engine front, the head's has been machined and assembled for over a year. I'm going to run with the original non ported AGU with Ferrea +1mm valvetrain now that the other head fell through (which is fine, the guy is carrying on with this build). The block has finally come back from the machinist with a hefty bill attached for all the machining and assembly. So now all I have to do is get some cash together to pay the guy, wait for some space in the workshop and we're good to go. The gearbox is the only bit that will be an issue. I've found a place that can rebuild the box and fit the USP shift forks, shot peen the internals and some other fancy treatments to the gears but the turn around time will be the killer. It's currently my daily car so I think I'll have to find a cheap runaround. Money money money eh.

    It would have happened a little sooner but the mrs was keen on a trip to Japan so that ate a little of the funds. It'll be worth it though, I loved Japan last time I went.
     
  23. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Cheers. I've yet to really try them out and probably won't ever reach the limits of grip on the road but they feel nicer than the old worn out ones I had. Amazing how much difference they can make.

    The other tyre I had in mind was the Hankook RS3 but apparently they wear faster, despite the 200 tread wear rating. Apparently Yokohama put some sort of new treatment they use on their "regular" road tyres into the AD08R that wasn't in the old AD08 to help with wear.

    I'm sure with all that power you could get through those AD08s pretty sharpish ;)
     
  24. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Been a while since I posted a pointless "I've bought more parts but no real progress" update.

    The engine is built. The small matter remains of paying for and collecting it. I am working on that but a trip to Japan in 4 weeks won't help the budget (the mrs idea!!).

    I ordered a few little bits. Firstly the bearings on my Ground Control mounts have gone. They were nice enough to replace them under warranty but suspect my suspension is bottoming out which I really doubt it since the car isn't that low. I think it's more the insane spring rates combined with **** Sydney roads. If these bearings don't last long I'll have to look at other options. I dropped them off to be pressed in to new housings and I'll fit them this weekend. Hopefully it'll solve the knocks once and for all.

    While I was shopping, I bought a new tool to help with the top nuts. I've always used a spark plug socket but it's never been good to get the right torque and generally a pain in the arse. I bought the Metalnerd tool with 21/22mm sockets:

    [​IMG]

    Looking through their catalog I should have bought the crank hold tool too!
    http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm

    I decided (along with some late night googling and advice from a few guys) to use the 75mm R32 throttle body rather than the Hemi one. The only reason for choosing the Hemi TB in the first place was the price. You can get the Hemi TB for $120 delivered but R32 ones are $300+ new (god knows why). Preference would have been for the 70mm S4 throttle body as it's serviceable (Bosch rather than VDO) but these also cost a packet and I got a good deal on this R32 one. I can always change later though as I got an adapter plate from INA that allows a few sizes to be used. The IE fuel rail also arrived so I checked everything fitted up ok. I'm going to get a few beads chucked around the lip of the TB to stop the hose blowing off.

    [​IMG]

    Oh, and I cleaned the car a bit. Tyres are rubbing a bit up front but I plan on getting a mobile guy out to roll the lip a bit more on the front wings. I think it'll be enough as it's not catching out the outside of the lip, but further in. Fingers crossed. Still, I think it's looking good now:

    [​IMG]IMG_0883.jpg by Sam_, on Flickr
     
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  25. [Dave B]

    [Dave B] Daddy

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    It looks immense!
     
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  26. Prawn

    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    Looks amazing! :iagree:

    I still think that when it's driven hard those fronts are going to catch like hell though even after they've been rolled!
     
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  27. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
    Staff Member Moderator

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    Every time you post a pic of your car on the Team Dynamics I really want a set!!!!... damn you Sam!!! LOL

    Looking good mate as always

    <tuffty/>
     
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  28. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Cheers fellas.
    Yeah you're probably right. I think 245's were probably pushing it and even those would have probably touched slightly under proper hard cornering. The local mobile guy that does the rolling seems to have pretty decent results but we'll see. He'll have his work cut out. I'd really not want to have to go narrower on the front. It'd only mean even more chance of understeer I'd imagine.
     
  29. Prawn

    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    I really want to try and squeeze a set of 245/40's onto mine, but lots of tyres arn't made in 245/40 annoyingly, and they're much less common on the preferable second hand market!
     
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  30. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Yeah, that was the reason I had to go 255/40. 245/40s were going to be another 6 weeks and these already took 2 months to come from Japan. It's **** for tyres here, 17s seem to be an oddball size. Most cars are either 15, 16 or 18+. I'll try and get 245s next time though I think.
     
  31. StaceyS3

    StaceyS3 Well-Known Member

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    Car looks spot on in that pic mate....pure car porn!

    That is my ideal final tyre wheel setup, in my head I've got 4 wheels that I'd love TD's 1.2, XXR's, superleggeras or rota g forces

    With regards to the rubbing have you got much room between the strut and wheel or is it tight? I assume Caliper clearance is the main governing factor, as I had the same with the cayennes and supprisingly the 996TT calipers are no better?
     
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  32. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Cheers mate.

    I don't think there's a huge amount of room between strut and tyre but I've not checked since the 255s were fitted to be honest. There was probably 5-10mm with the 245s on there. You're right though, it's mainly caliper clearance that is the issue. Are you using R32 discs? They're a really low offset and pretty much flat so that doesn't help as it means the caliper has to stick out more. I saw this TTRS kit for the Mk4 recently which looks like it'd be better but you'd need 18s. I might have gone for this if I was starting over especially over there since you can get parts like that for peanuts compared to here.

    [​IMG]

    Big Rear Brake Options
     
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  33. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Fitted the new rose joints to the Ground Control top mounts today. Such a difference. The old ones had so much play in them and driving down the road meant lots of bangs and rattles. It's not exactly a plush ride now but is a massive improvement. I also added a few layers of electrical tape (sounds ghetto I know) to the mount where it sits in the turret to aid in a bit of sound deadening and to prevent any movement. Raised the car 5mm too as Ground Control said they reckon it could be the dampers bottom out but I highly doubt that. There's about 30mm of thread left on the damper body, maybe more. Also when I had the shocks rebuilt they said there were no signs of bottoming out.

    I'm also in need of a set of pads for the front brakes (well, and rear but I'll sort that later I think). I dropped into VW for a laugh to see what a set of Touareg V10 pads cost (shares the same caliper) and they were......... $468 including sensors. Mental. The options are basically getting the OEM Porsche Pagids for $120 USD, a set of Carbotech 1521s for $206 or Hawks for about the same money. I'm swaying towards just getting the Pagids until I actually start using the car properly. The 1521s are a road pad but just not sure it justifies the cost.
     
  34. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Not a huge amount has happened regarding the engine. Should have an update in a few weeks though :)

    A seemingly constant issue with the car has been suspension related noise. I do run rose joints but some noises just aren't meant to be there. I'd been getting a creaking on steering and some very horrible noises when braking hard but only when the car/weather was hot. Really weird. Literally everything has been changed apart from the offside driveshaft and wheel bearings on the front. I had known the boot on the inner CV joint had gone so assumed/hope that at least one of the two noises was that. I sourced another shaft as the inner joint felt like it had a lot of play. Found a Mk4 R32 nearside one in the UK and arranged for it to be sent here (yes, cheap couriers do exist ;)) which I planned to cannibalise the joints from. Also grabbed two OE boot kits and two TRW (OEM) ball joints to fit while I was there. I couldn't feel any play in the current ones but it's hard to test them sometimes so I figured it was worth doing them while I was under there.

    So anyway, here's the donor shaft which was in pretty good nick (only 35k on it)

    [​IMG]

    Grease looked good:

    [​IMG]

    Then I split both driveshafts. My original CV joints didn't feel that bad but it can't do any harm having some fresher ones in. The bonus being that the CVs spent their life being driven the other way around so should last a bit longer. I'll transfer my old joints to the center shaft and make another good shaft since I had to buy another boot kit (more on that later!):

    [​IMG]

    The donor joints cleaned up as best I could without splitting them apart. I didn't think it was worth it after seeing the condition of the grease:

    [​IMG]

    This was a bit worrying though. Wear on the inner CV joint cap. Possibly due to someone cracking the end of the cap too hard but I was worried the joint could have been under too much pressure perhaps?

    [​IMG]

    Assembling the shaft was reasonably straight forward apart from getting the OE boots on which are more plastic than rubber. Anyhow, here's the complete shaft ready to go:

    [​IMG]

    Cleaned up the area and refitted the shaft:

    [​IMG]

    Sweet. A job well done I thought. Took it for a test drive and it was going well until I went full lock pulling out of a junction and bang clatter clatter. Something sounded horrible. I had a quick look under but couldn't see anything. Luckily I could coast home but getting up the driveway was another matter, it was obvious something had gone wrong, I'd lost drive to the right wheel. ****. Got it to the garage and I could move the shaft around! It'd popped off the outer joint and I knew exactly what it was. The bloody arsehole retaining clip on the outer joint. I'd fitted it and the washers in the correct way but it's hard to tell when the joint has fully located. A tip for anyone doing the job, don't put too much grease on the joint when you fit it to the shaft initially. Put as much as you can on while still being able to see the joint has fully seated against the plastic washer.

    I'd joked to Tuffty that I might be working from home on Monday and yep. I took the day off to finish my half arsed job. Luckily the joint was fine. It'd locked up and a few balls had fallen into the boot but no major damage thank god. I called VW and got a quote for the 120g tube of grease and a new strap but he said that it'd cost $70 and a new boot kit with bolt, clamps etc was the same price. In hindsight I should have just bought the kit for the earlier cars (which is seemingly shared by loads of cars). It's about $20 cheaper because the bolt isn't included (earlier uses a nut) which seems to add a fair bit to the cost. There was only 1 left in Australia of the kit I got! That's how easy it is to get parts here haha. Had to refit the CV in situ as of course I couldn't easily undo the inner bolts as the whole diff wanted to spin. I made sure it was fully seated this time :) Did a load of full lock tests and they went ok.

    Alignment on Tuesday at East Coast Suspension (it's massively out - I did it by eye) - hopefully there's some tasty Porsches there.
     
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  35. Jenno007

    Jenno007 Active Member

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    How important would you say are the extra breathers on the valve cover? What warrants them?
     
  36. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    High rpm more than anything I'd say? That one up the top with 4 breathers is a bit overkill :)
     
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  37. Jenno007

    Jenno007 Active Member

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    Do you think the standard breather would be suitable for a standard revving 2L (stroked and bored), 8.5:1 CR, GTX3071r running up to 30psi? This is something I have never considered before, I just presumed the standard breather would be plenty!

    I guess I could just leave the standard one and if a seal goes then I know what needs fixing :p
     
  38. Sam_

    Sam_ Down under

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    Should be fine - loads of people out there running the same setup. If you were really inclined, running the block and cam cover breathers separately to the catch can might help.
     
  39. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
    Staff Member Moderator

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    I use the std outlets but upsized the pipework to 25mm as they join into one on mine... not had any issues so far but tbh its not like I drive it flat out everywhere..

    <tuffty/>
     
  40. Jenno007

    Jenno007 Active Member

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    I know it will be somewhere in your thread, but does your catch can vent to atmo or into the TIP?
     

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