My S3 Thread

Just took the car for a drive and it feels so awesome compared to the Nissan Match (Micra in Thailand) I was driving. That thing was like a barge compared and big long gear changes.

Slight problem though, I wound the passenger window down and it was really slow to respond and then when it got to the bottom it wouldn't go back up. I know what you're going to say... "The clips" but it doesn't seem like it is that. I tried pushing/pulling the window up manually and getting a mate to jab the button but it didn't move, and it doesn't sound like the motor is even trying. I removed the motor and pushed the window up manually and it was smooth as. Connected the motor separate to the system, tried the button and nothing, dead motor?
 
Nice one on the tubby...got an alright deal there :)

Definately got to try and get that on now you've got it ;)

Do you know what the previous owner managed to get out of it?
 
He made 430hp @ all four wheels in a Golf R. Running about 30psi.

Need to find a suitable downpipe and manifold combo. I've mailed CTS turbo to see if they can offer me some bits from their kit.
 
Last edited:
Sam_ said:
I tried pushing/pulling the window up manually and getting a mate to jab the button but it didn't move, and it doesn't sound like the motor is even trying. I removed the motor and pushed the window up manually and it was smooth as. Connected the motor separate to the system, tried the button and nothing, dead motor?
Click to expand...


Mine did this, I thought the switch had died so took the door card off, took the plug off the switch then reattached it to find it had fixed the problem. 11 years without moving would get my joints a little corroded too I think! :) Might not be of any help but it did the trick for me. :o.k:
 
Tried both switches and it doesn't seem to work :( I think it's the motor itself as even when removed from the mechanism but still connected electronically, it doesn't work.
 
Sam_ said:
He made 430hp @ all four wheels in a Golf R. Running about 30psi.

Need to find a suitable downpipe and manifold combo. I've mailed CTS turbo to see if they can offer me some bits from their kit.
Click to expand...

I know the former owner of the tubby well, also know the shop that did the install very well.
Car was featured in a magazine not long ago.
About the window motor you can try to replace the motor's brushes, i had the same problem and i replaced them and fixed the problem albeit is a bit slow going both ways now.
 
audi upgrades
Cool! Seb still thinks I should just fit the GT28 kit he has there as it's "complete". He seems to think you have to replace a fair bit to run a GT30 over a GT28 (fuel lines, rail etc) and that it would be more laggy. Personally I think it's just going to be the manifold/downpipe/wastegate setup that differs really. When it comes to lag, I'm told the GTX3071 would be similar to a GT2871 in terms of spool. I'd just prefer to do it right the first time around but he does have a point in that I could just fit the GT28 kit to the engine being built, get it mapped and off I go whereas I'd need to source and muck about with more parts for a GTX30. Perhaps I'll just slowly source parts for the GTX30 while running the GT28 kit.

Cheers for the tip on the window. I'll whip it apart tomorrow night and have a look. It all looks new behind there!

The IDF tubular control arms arrived today and initially I was very impressed. Then I tried to wind in the rose joints and the threads look like they were cut by a small child, blindfolded, and with his hands tied. That and there's a load of beads in there from bead blasting, clogging the threads. I've bought a tap to clean them out but after waiting around 3 months for them, I'm a little ****** off. I hope they work well else I'll be sending them back. :banghead:

Tyrolsport solid subframe mounts, tyrolsport solid rack mount, spigot rings and the connectors to extend the n249 cabling arrived. I bought the connectors so I can hide it away and not chop the loom up incase I want to go back to stock or something.
 
Sam_ said:
I'm told the GTX3071 would be similar to a GT2871 in terms of spool. .
Click to expand...
this isnt the case from what ive read (ive been reading ALOT). they are actually no quicker than the normal GT varients, if a little slower, but the top end is 10% better.

so your GTX3071 will flow about the same as a GT3076 of similar hotside, but will spool like a GT3071, if a tad slower.

think of the GTX's as a renew of the next model up GT.
GTX2863 ----- GT2871
GTX2867 ----- GT3071
GTX3071 ----- GT3076
GTX3076 ----- GT35R
etc etc.

It obv depends which hotside you compare but thats the general comparison in terms of flow capabilty.
Its just alot of people assume the new GTX range spool faster than their normal GT equivilent, but they dont.

also, other than manifolds there wont be much different in the two setups.
whos to say you cant change the flange or modify the dp of your gt28 kit to fit the gtx.
 
Ah cool. Cheers for that. To be honest, lag doesn't phase me too much (unless of course you have to really rev the thing) as you can just shift it down a gear! The previous owner of the turbo peaked at 6800 but think he could have revved further. I recall 7500 being ok on the standard lifters and springs?

Yeah I think the same to be honest. He seems to think I'd be building a 600bhp drag car when really I'm just after a comfortable 450 ish really. The stock fuel lines and rail will be fine at that level. They are for many others! Many of the parts I need to upgrade for the GT28 will be similar for the GT30 anyway and where possible I've gone overboard to account for later upgrades.

Really the manifold/downpipe for the GT28 will be no use. The GT28 setup is underslung and not sure the GT30 would fit so well underslung. I got a quote back from Clay at CTS for their kit, minus the turbo of about $2k. It might be something I do a bit later. We'll see. I just can't see the GT28 blowing me away even though it does have a .82 housing and larger exhaust wheel (apparently).
 
Standard lifters can take more than 7500. mine is at 8000 and someone on vortex has taken them to 9500 but he has had problems with them. I recommended springs not matter what in a build with a BT.

As again with the fuel rail the standard stuff is fine to any level
 
Cool, as I thought Andrew. We'll see...

Picked up the AD08's I won on eBay tonight. They look in real good nick, especially for the price!

tyres.jpg


Also got the bushes to replace the rose joints on the gruvenparts arms. The squeaking of the rose joints is doing my head in. Here they are with the tyrolsport subframe bushes and alloy rack mount.

bits.jpg


And finally the IDF tubular arms:

arms.jpg
 
Turbo arrived. Now just need to decide what to do with it! CTS will do their kit minus the turbo for $2k which isn't TOO bad but this GT28 kit I have lined up is ready to go. Hmm...

525323_10151463201841760_1339316109_n.jpg
 
Just got a tyre fitted to one of the rims (couldn't fit all 4 wheels + tyres in) to work out what spacers I need to get them fitted. Think I'm definitely going to need to wrap the bumper inserts and door blades in gloss black to match these wheels:

wheel.jpg


Tyres are fairly wide (245/40/17):

tyre.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: driftymcgee
I fitted the MadMax bushes today to replace the groany, squeeky rose joints. They were doing my head in. Made the car seem so ****. Feels so much better (and quieter!) with the bushes fitted. I reset the lengths too as the left side tyre had loads of inner wear, basically it's shot. Lucky I have the new wheels to go on.

Can you see why I changed them to bushes? This is after ~3 months/2,500 km.



Also fitted the USRT/IDF tubular front control arms which went well. I just need to make up a mount for the headlight level sensor, for now it's been removed as I was short on time. A job for next week. Didn't get any pictures as there wasn't much to show to be honest. Ride seems no worse than before and it does feel a fair bit "sharper". I really need the front alignment done though as it's well out. I had to wing it so the wheels "looked" straight as I have the ball joints in the fully extended position. I'll probably get a cheap alignment done tomorrow as it's going to need to be done again soon anyway after the solid subframe and solid rack mount are fitted.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow I can't believe the movement when pulling on that wheel 10x worse then a wheel bearing going :sadlike:
 
Yeah I was pretty shocked when I originally found it. Feels so much tighter now. As soon as I found it, bushes were ordered! The drivers side is just as bad. Not ideal.
 
Got the alignment done. The drivers side was WAYYY out. After reading Prawns thread, I went for 1mm of toe-in. I currently have 2.5 degree of camber on the front, might be a tad much but I'll see how it goes. Didn't get a print out unfortunately but I'm going for a proper alignment once I get the solid subframe mounts on. The guy doing it commented on it feeling tight for a car of that age which is good. He took it round the block and then came back smiling so I assume he gave it some (lucky it was warm!). The drive back was awesome. It's turning into such a point and shoot car :) It feels solid. Handles awesome. The drive home will be fun.
 
  • Like
Reactions: StaceyS3
Lovely car mate, great thread and a good read. I lived in Sydney for a year back in 2003-04, such a nice place.

Quick question...your wiper arms. Are they off a newer A3 or a different model?
 
So I ordered a new motor for the passenger door as the window wouldn't go back up after my trip away. I took the door card off, checked the clips and the motor didn't work when removed from the system. Assumed it was bust so took apart the motor and cleaned and greased it all up. Put it back and no change so I ordered a new one. I went to a wedding today and put the door card back on and connected the window switch back up only to realise the window now works fine! Good but bad in that I've ordered the replacement. I'll see if I can send it back or flog it on I guess.

The knock on the front that I've always had is now way worse with the tubular arms. I think it's most likely ARB related so I'll change the bushes (probably need doing anyway) and my used drop links.
 
Result....well sort of on the window motor ;)

Definately change the drop links mate as spent ages hunting mine down and it was 100% the drop links on mine :)
 
What sound does kncakered drop links make? Think my drivers side one is shot after doing my top mounts.
 
Knocking/clonking noise, mine first started really quietly when going onto coilovers, then was a lot worse with top mounts and ARB's, then trying to find the fault I polybushed all the front which made it worse again lol

The more you stiffen the car the more noticeable it will be :)
 
Yeah I suspect (and hope) it's the droplinks as they're an easy fix. Some people report knocking with the ground control top mounts but I think I've always had this, just it's been less noticeable. I guess as a test I can take off the droplinks and see if it goes away, at least then I know it's ARB/droplink related.
 
Well my knockig only appeared after the adjustable top mounts went on monday, ive just ordered aome new drop links so will be fitting them and a new bearing so hope one of them cures it.
 
Yeah same. The top mounts are tight though so not sure it's those. I'll go for drop links next. I've got solid subframe mounts, arb bushes and a solid rack mount to fit and then it's literally every suspension part sorted.
 
Drop links is a good guess, its the reason my car has a slight knock. Its the next thing on my list.
 
I'll have a go at this. There's loads of engineering places near my work that do rod ends etc. I'll look into it.

I have rose jointed rears but never seen front ones apart from for FWD.
 
would be so easy, just need someone to measure up the length of a stock droplink then order the right size.

When are your wheels going on Sam?
 
Not soon enough! Everytime i come in here i hope to see it looking epic but no :( lol
 
I know I know :( I just need to work out what size spacers to order. It's a delicate balance of getting the wheels to clear the monster calipers but also the tyre to clear the arches :) I reckon it'll be around 20mm-25mm to take them to ET20-15 like the boys running 9.5s do. The only thing that's different is I'm running proper width tyres, no stretched ****e :)
 
Well my new ines should be here by the end of the week so ill measure them up before i fit them, then order these for future lol.
 
I'm 99% sure Stacey was right that it's droplinks.

These are the exact sounds I have:







I'll probably swap them over to some OEM items (as the noise is doing my head in) then look at making some rose jointed ones.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Haha I'll get an order in with the dealer tomorrow for a pair ;) I assume OEM are best (until I chuck some rose joints on) ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

audi14
My S3 Build Thread
Replies
86
Views
9K
Nick_sheep
Nick_sheep
Dani_B19
  • Start Poll
My S3 Build Thread.
Replies
0
Views
609
Dani_B19
D
xe dan
my 8l s3 project thread
Replies
22
Views
4K
xe dan
xe dan
Adam P
My S3 8L Progress Thread
Replies
188
Views
23K
<tuffty/>
<tuffty/>
*P3nfold*
My S3 Build Thread Help Please??
Replies
52
Views
4K
*P3nfold*
*P3nfold*
Top
Back