My project/money drain.

Looks about the same to me but I've never has my hands on an a4 bumper before. Manufacturers like to keep things the same to reduce tooling, lines and production costs down but they also like to do model variations from time to time, revisions. Be nice if they made up there mind and followed one ethos or another. But maybe someone else with more experience could confirm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Reedler18
My next query, and quite an important one.
I've just swapped the oil feed to the turbo but obviously the end is different due to the T3 being awkward. I bought a little adapter flange but the hole is tiny in comparison to the old one! I don't get why???
20170513 104924
20170513 104938
 
After a quick Google about restrictors I'm still none the wiser about this turbo needing one or not though and I really don't want to connect the old oil feed again if I can help it. Anyone that's swapped one will know how awkward the pump end is to get to!
The saga continues.........
 
Reedler18 said:
After a quick Google about restrictors I'm still none the wiser about this turbo needing one or not though and I really don't want to connect the old oil feed again if I can help it. Anyone that's swapped one will know how awkward the pump end is to get to!
The saga continues.........
Click to expand...
Only normally need a restrictor on a ball bearing turbo, other one looks pretty big, is it an an10 size? Looks like it could be an oil drain size rather than a feed, I've always ran an4 for oil feeds
 
mikeya4 said:
Only normally need a restrictor on a ball bearing turbo, other one looks pretty big, is it an an10 size? Looks like it could be an oil drain size rather than a feed, I've always ran an4 for oil feeds
Click to expand...
Will it be safe to use like That? I don't want to start blowing seals out etc.
On the plus side, the down pipe is all undone now and I can get all the pics and measurements I need from the turbo and start shopping for another one.
 
I would measure the hole size and if it's bigger than an4 personally I wouldn't use it, I've ran an4 on multiple journal bearing turbos without issues but not any bigger so I don't know if it'll cause issues tbh
 
Also I've noticed there's a bolt sheared on the exhaust side just to throw a spanner in the works.
 
mikeya4 said:
I would measure the hole size and if it's bigger than an4 personally I wouldn't use it, I've ran an4 on multiple journal bearing turbos without issues but not any bigger so I don't know if it'll cause issues tbh
Click to expand...
It's the old one that's huge, the new one is tiny in comparison. I've got no experience with that side of it all but it was bought as a T3 adapter so presumed it was right.

Edit: It's AN4.
 
Last edited:
The new one is an4? Journal bearings need I think about 1.5mm if you have a drill bit that size see if it fits in the hole? Don't want to be any smaller than that
 
mikeya4 said:
The new one is an4? Journal bearings need I think about 1.5mm if you have a drill bit that size see if it fits in the hole? Don't want to be any smaller than that
Click to expand...
Could I just drill it out to 1.5mm?
 
Yes but hopefully it is already 1.5mm as that should be right, you go down to a 1.0mm for BB
 
I don't even think it's 1mm. I'll take it off and check.
 
You want to make sure you have a good drain too as this can cause pressure and blow seals in the turbo
 
Make sure you blow the swarf out or drill it off the car so to keep the bits out of the oil system.
 
All done. 1.5mm. It looked more like half a mm to begin with.
I think the N75 valve may be faulty too now. Not that I'm driving it hard, I'm basically staying off boost whenever possible. But, it seems I have zero boost for some reason. That's a job for another day though. Oil feed sorted. Couldn't do the MAF yet till they send me the right sensor. Turbo removed, lots of pictures and measurements taken. Also while it was off I bought myself a set of hex sockets and tightened the nuts up so now there is no lateral play on the shaft.
Getting there verrrrry slowly but going in the right direction at least.

Cheers for all the help and info, very much appreciated.

Si.
 
Samuel c5 Q said:
Is this on the knackered unit?
Click to expand...
It is indeed. It's not exactly knackered but the fact the it came loose made me want to change it. Plus the retaining nut damaged the blades when it came off.
 
Was going to say like Kev get the compressor house and turbine housing if you suspect it but more than likely wouldn't hurt to check how bad the damage is. Get the pictures up til we see. My compressor wheel fins had touched the housing on the tdi but wasn't bad enough to warrant rebalancing as she's still living. I washed the whole lot in fairy liquid then flush through with wd40 and build up with engine builders lube on the chra. When fitting put a bit of engine oil in the feed side and rotate the wheel then connect to the return line and put another dose in 50-100ml and rotate again then connect the feed line.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Reedler18
I didn't quite type that correctly in the last post. I meant to say get the housings off to fully check for damage. It's only possible to see a small part of the wheels when you look in the opening. You can also see where the wheel was touching the housing which can tell you how bad things were.
 
zero boost isnt an N75 issue. The N75 cant give less boost than the turbo wastegate wants to provide, only more.

You've smashed the turbo to bits, then retightened the shaft without the correct torque settings, so i'm not surprised it isnt working. You may even have siezed the shaft in the turbo at this point. The turbo spins at 150000rpm or higher, its an extremely precision piece, and the whole reason the chinese ones fail is the chinese factories cant build them precisely enough.

I'm really not sure whats to be gained from continuing trying to use this knackered turbo...
 
It's only to get me to and from the garage. The only other alternative is to do it in the street.
 
I vote for the street. Seriously I can show you pictures of mine out the front of the house up on stands. Quite funny, I thought anyway. I live in an estate though and not a fancy housing place but we still like to try and keep the place good even the alchos do.
 
Am I missing something with this 3 inch maf housing? It's definitely a vr6 housing and I definitely have a standard 1.8t sensor but it clearly doesn't fit! It took me an hour to get the stupid anti tamper screws out too. The whole thing looks to be 90 degrees out where the screws go. It won't fit any other way and if it did go in the other way then the screws are off centre and wouldn't do up anyway.
20170520 082753
20170520 083537
 
Thank you sir. It said aeb in the advert so I presumed it would fit. Back on fleabay I guess.
 
My mistake. It says Passat b5/ golf mk4 and Octavia 1.8t. If it's of any use to anyone on here I'll put it in the classifieds for a postage only bargain.
 
best just searching using the number above. I had three of them and sold them all for about 20quid each.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Reedler18
Yeah I put your part number in and it came straight up. All bought and played for cheers.
 
Past the point of no return now.......
I'm actually quite enjoying it so far. Old turbo is off, new turbo needed a plug tapping in the side for the wastegate control. Not sure why it wasn't there but it's the closest match turbo so did it myself and it went well. Turbo has now been clocked so the feed/drain/housing is in the correct position. New set of studs fitted on the exhaust side to replace all the mismatched bolts that had been cross threaded. Thrown the return line in the bin that was the obvious cause of oil leaks. New maf sensor is now in the 3 inch housing. Quick bit of lunch and it'll be time to put it all back together. Photos to follow as they're too large from my phone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Samuel c5 Q
Primed the turbo and triple checked everything, fired her up and all seemed fine. I washed my hands and put the tools away, started her up again and the engine just died. Unplugged the maf sensor and it runs fine....... The sensor/housing is definitely the right way round so i'm guessing I still have the wrong sensor??? I'll carry on with it tomorrow as I'm not sure my back can stand much more. I'll try the old sensor and housing and see what happens I guess.
Also, how easy would the wastegate be to strip? I realise they're under pressure but is it a fairly easy task? I think the spring has had it's day and thought I may be able to just replace the spring. I presume it's a cheap one so may just bite the bullet and buy a decent one. There doesn't seem to be anything between a good one and rubbish one.
 
Last edited:
Are they pressure actuated aren't they? Maybe you could stick a pump and a gauge in line and test it for opening pressure and if if holds pressure and doesn't leak. That's how I tested the waste gates of the k series turbos that I rebuilt. Then you will know whether it needs attention or not.
 
Try to get the baseline boost around 5-8psi. It becomes much harder to control if the wastegate setting is too much higher. Run without the N75 until its tuned as well.

The trims might be quite far out with the swapped MAF and might need resetting or something? Have a look with VCDS and see what they are?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

mattpanton
My Grille Project
Replies
16
Views
1K
S3Steve
S3Steve
Broken Byzan
My latest Project
Replies
27
Views
1K
Broken Byzan
Broken Byzan
D
My K04 project pics!
Replies
47
Views
3K
PaulJC84
PaulJC84
MiniMental
My Cactus Project
Replies
0
Views
1K
MiniMental
MiniMental
LeeT
My widebody project car
Replies
67
Views
5K
ScottD3
ScottD3
Top
Back