Manual boost controller info required.

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Joe9090

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Iv replaced my n75 with a manual boost control valve, iv adjusted it to 10 psi. Can somone give me a safe boost psi i should run with blowing my turbo up.
Also can anyone tell me if the vaccum line bit on the manifold is sucking air is normal? Iv installed a turbo guage reader but it doesnt operate properly. It sits on minus 20 on the guage when stood with engine on.
 
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Only safe way to increase the boost is by chipping/remapping. Fooling the setup with an MBC is a recipe for a dead engine. To that end I would set it for standard boost or better still, put the N75 back on.

Vacuum is normal when the engine isn't under load. Only once the engine is loaded and the turbo spooling up will you see boost.
 
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Sorry friend i dont know about throttle body adaption. Could you explain please? Im a total novice, Should i reduce the boost? It was boosting around 8psi.
 
Just to say i appreciate any member giving safe advice as it helped me alot.
Thank you once again.
 
Turn ignition lights on but don't start the engine. After about 20 seconds or so the throttlebody should start whiring. Leave it to go through its motions finishing in a click. Then start and jobs done.

May not cure it but an unadapted TB will cause limp mode and it's a free fix to try
 
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Right il give it a go. And let you know how i get on.
 
Iv done that but cars still losing power when hot, but if i really force the car to accelerate it starts boosting ok.
 
Could these symptoms be related to a faulty O2 sensor?
 
Unlikely, the ECU should notice the O2 sensor was faulty and would give you a code.

My money is on a faulty MAF or a leak. One of the small hoses under the inlet manifold split on my dads 1.8T, and that caused all sorts of weirdness. You'd put your foot down and it would go, then hesitiate, fart around, then go again.

I'm going to lock this thread, stick to posting in the other one.
 
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