Loud beeping whilst driving - but no warning lights?

[Grant_H]

Hi all,

Driving home tonight and the dash was beeping every so often; 3 beeps and then occasionally a single beep.

I know that 3 beeps is a serious fault, but there were no accompanying warning signals on any of the dash lights or the LCD. I've also ran VCDS lite and no codes show up. Any ideas?

Regards,

Grant

 

[Grant_H]

Update - same happened again tonight. Didn't happen this morning though.

Still no warning lights; and I've also checked the MFD is working as it scrolls through it's options when the button is pressed.

Regards,

Grant

 

[ex911driver]

get it scanned with vcds

 

[Grant_H]

Hi,

Have done - see above

Regards,

Grant

 

[ex911driver]

lite only checks certain modules, unless it is registered have a look here,
Ross-Tech: VCDS: Function Table

 

[aragorn]

Things that make the Beeps wont appear on vcds.

 

[PAULF]

It sounds like the dash insert board, and I'd recommend getting it fixed sooner rather than later. I used ECU Testing the second time after a bad time with BBA Reman

Mrs PaulFs clock set was returned from a repair doing this, and at the same time nothing was displayed.

When a rock went through the sump, the first indication was the engine stopping as we didn't notice the genuine beeps in amongst the random ones. A remanufactured 2.5TDi and turbo was not cheap.

 

[Grant_H]

Hi there,

Thanks for the reply! Is this an easy DIY fix?

Regards,

Grant

 

[PAULF]

Yes, you take the instrument cluster out, pack it and post it off with around 150-200 beer tokens. :thumbsup:

When you get it back, put it back in. You'll find something doesn't work - usually fails to start and run. Then take it out and refit the plugs at the back properly.

The insert comes out easily - lower the steering column to the lowest setting first to get the maximum clearance for removal. The there is a slide-off cover at the bottom of the cluster, this hides the 2 torx (can't remember the size, but not big) screws. You then fettle it out forward enough to unplug the connectors. They have a little latch to lift first. This latch is why you will not fit one back properly first time!

 

[Grant_H]

Lol thanks for the reply

Is that all that needs doing then? Just taking out and re-fitting?

Thanks again,

 

[PAULF]

Sorry, I've not been clear, the steps are:-

Taking out, sending away to get repaired at a cost of £150-200ish ​then refitting.

I used ECU Testing, a quick check on here will give you other companies if you want.

 

[Grant_H]

Ahh, I'm with you; so it's a fault with the actual board?

 

[PAULF]

Most likely - unless somebody else on here has a better idea.

Call ECU Testing and see what they say - they may test it first at a cheaper rate.

Another word of warning - don't think it is easier/cheaper to get another cluster.

You need the correct one, and it needs to be coded as the immobiliser is built into the cluster. The coding procedure needs a code, extracted from the cluster. It is easy enough with the correct software (NOT VCDS) but essentially impossible without.
The easy key programming method you get on the internet requiring two keys and a sequence of locking/unlocking only code the remote to the central locking.

 

[Grant_H]

Update - problem fixed!

I re-set the service interval as well as remove / reconnect everything. The red multiplug felt a bit loose; so might've been down to that.

Thanks to everyone for their replies

Regards,

Grant