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Karls 3.0 TDI build thread
- Thread starter desertstorm
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benjie
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Well been tweaking the car a bit more,
Never really been happy with the air intake pipe from the air box to the turbo.
Quite a large convoluted section where the pipe is narrowing quite a lot.
Looking for an OE solution I found the newer face lift cars have a better design of intake pipe on.
Found one on E-bay in Germany and a few days later it was on the car.
Previous intake narrows down from 80mm to around 50mm in the convoluted section.
New intake , narrows down from 80mm to around 60mm at the end of the convoluted section then narrows gradually to the turbo intake.
The only slight downside of the mod is the original pipe has a mounting point for the DPF pressure sensor, This is now secured with a zip tie to the new pipe.
This is the new and old together, with the new one fitted. The new pipe appears to be about 10mm shorter than the old one but fits fine.
The new part number is 059129629A
Karl.
Never really been happy with the air intake pipe from the air box to the turbo.
Quite a large convoluted section where the pipe is narrowing quite a lot.
Looking for an OE solution I found the newer face lift cars have a better design of intake pipe on.
Found one on E-bay in Germany and a few days later it was on the car.
Previous intake narrows down from 80mm to around 50mm in the convoluted section.
New intake , narrows down from 80mm to around 60mm at the end of the convoluted section then narrows gradually to the turbo intake.
The only slight downside of the mod is the original pipe has a mounting point for the DPF pressure sensor, This is now secured with a zip tie to the new pipe.
This is the new and old together, with the new one fitted. The new pipe appears to be about 10mm shorter than the old one but fits fine.
The new part number is 059129629A
Karl.
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The improvement is liable to be a few bhp but when the car has 300 odd it's hard to feel that much difference.
Will need to do some back to back runs on virtual dyno to see if I can see a difference.
On a different theme, Been tatting again today.
From a post on the forum found an article about the Audi Drive select function. This gives you adjustable throttle , steering, gearbox change points and suspension settings depending on what you have in the car.
As I have a manual box and don't have the magnetic adjustable suspension system it will just alter the steering and throttle response.
http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_ADS.html
The idea is that you can enable it with VAG-COM and then add a switch to allow you to change between comfort, auto and dynamic.
When you enable it you can set the default settings to one of the 3 above so that without a switch it stops in that mode all the time.
I believe cars are probably set as a default auto position and so most of the time are in comfort mode, making the transition to dynamic when the car decides you are driving less sedately.
I tried setting it to dynamic and what a difference :esm .
The throttle pedal has now turned into what seems to be a microswitch, small movements result in immediate response and the throttle response is instant. The steering has quite noticeably tightened up as well.
I have in the past felt the steering tighten up when pushing on and it seems this may be the transition from comfort to dynamic mode.
Will look at getting the switch installed I think so I can change it without having to use the laptop.
Karl.
Will need to do some back to back runs on virtual dyno to see if I can see a difference.
On a different theme, Been tatting again today.
From a post on the forum found an article about the Audi Drive select function. This gives you adjustable throttle , steering, gearbox change points and suspension settings depending on what you have in the car.
As I have a manual box and don't have the magnetic adjustable suspension system it will just alter the steering and throttle response.
http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_ADS.html
The idea is that you can enable it with VAG-COM and then add a switch to allow you to change between comfort, auto and dynamic.
When you enable it you can set the default settings to one of the 3 above so that without a switch it stops in that mode all the time.
I believe cars are probably set as a default auto position and so most of the time are in comfort mode, making the transition to dynamic when the car decides you are driving less sedately.
I tried setting it to dynamic and what a difference :esm .
The throttle pedal has now turned into what seems to be a microswitch, small movements result in immediate response and the throttle response is instant. The steering has quite noticeably tightened up as well.
I have in the past felt the steering tighten up when pushing on and it seems this may be the transition from comfort to dynamic mode.
Will look at getting the switch installed I think so I can change it without having to use the laptop.
Karl.
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I also did the same yesterday. The steering is much tighter. It's like driving a go kart! Throttle response is also better, with the car being staged two mapped as well, it seems to spool quicker with smaller lag. 
Did some data logging this morning to see if I could see any difference between the two intake pipes.
Did two runs with the new one on then swapped the original one onto the car. only two clips so a 2 minute job.
Logged intake mass and boost pressure along with RPM .
Looking at the logs I would expect more flow if the pipe was an improvement.
The main differences I saw were at lower RPM below about 3K RPM the new pipe was an improvement, above that it looked like the new one had a small advantage but not as noticeable in terms of mass flow.
These are the stats for the original pipe
and the new intake pipe
The straw highlighted areas are the interesting bit, The airflow is pretty much always consistently greater .
I created a graph on Excel to plot the readings logged.
The differences aren't massive but are consistent and positive. Plotting the results in the virtual dyno is looks like a 3-4 bhp increase at around 4K RPM and something like 5-6 bhp at 2000 rpm.
Not massive increases but just changing a plastic pipe it's positive.
Karl.
Did two runs with the new one on then swapped the original one onto the car. only two clips so a 2 minute job.
Logged intake mass and boost pressure along with RPM .
Looking at the logs I would expect more flow if the pipe was an improvement.
The main differences I saw were at lower RPM below about 3K RPM the new pipe was an improvement, above that it looked like the new one had a small advantage but not as noticeable in terms of mass flow.
These are the stats for the original pipe
and the new intake pipe
The straw highlighted areas are the interesting bit, The airflow is pretty much always consistently greater .
I created a graph on Excel to plot the readings logged.
The differences aren't massive but are consistent and positive. Plotting the results in the virtual dyno is looks like a 3-4 bhp increase at around 4K RPM and something like 5-6 bhp at 2000 rpm.
Not massive increases but just changing a plastic pipe it's positive.
Karl.
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For Ref, I enabled that ADS today "mentioned a couple of posts ago", the instructions needed a bit of "scary moment" experimentation as the H/W buttons have changed on the B8.5.
It appears to have worked though, when I press ther "car" button, the correct ADS graphic appears with all its settings on the MMI, Not had a road test yet, but looking fwds to trying it out.
As I'm S-Tronic, I never ticked the gearbox option as suggested, so I assume if I select Dynamic Engine option, it'll change my map but the gearbox change points will remain the same?
The "Setup" button mentioned on the Audi Enthusiasts website is the "Menu" button on my B8.5.
It appears to have worked though, when I press ther "car" button, the correct ADS graphic appears with all its settings on the MMI, Not had a road test yet, but looking fwds to trying it out.
As I'm S-Tronic, I never ticked the gearbox option as suggested, so I assume if I select Dynamic Engine option, it'll change my map but the gearbox change points will remain the same?
The "Setup" button mentioned on the Audi Enthusiasts website is the "Menu" button on my B8.5.
Why didn't you select the gearbox as well? It would hold the revs longer in each gear before changing up in dynamic mode.
Karl.
Karl.
I can do that by putting G-Box in Sport. The ADS instructions state that if I tick the gearbox option, it'll be permantly stuck in Sport, in dynamic mode.
Doing it like I have still gives me the "Drive" option which is fine most of the time, don't forget it has kickdown also.
It seems to suggest I can sharpen the engine map whilst leaving the G-Box change points as is? That's the theory, road test needed to prove.
Not forgetting a "Thanks" for the info.
Doing it like I have still gives me the "Drive" option which is fine most of the time, don't forget it has kickdown also.
It seems to suggest I can sharpen the engine map whilst leaving the G-Box change points as is? That's the theory, road test needed to prove.
Not forgetting a "Thanks" for the info.
Last edited:
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mattyb6
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Alight Karl
Just caught up on your thread, itching to get a 3.0tdi now.... Really bad
But with it being just after Xmas I'm going to wait, the mot is due on the b6 in March, if it passes il keep it until next winter.
What gearbox oil did you use in your Passat? My b6 is a 130pd awx fwd
And what mpg do you get on motorway runs with 300+ bhp?
Just caught up on your thread, itching to get a 3.0tdi now.... Really bad
But with it being just after Xmas I'm going to wait, the mot is due on the b6 in March, if it passes il keep it until next winter.
What gearbox oil did you use in your Passat? My b6 is a 130pd awx fwd
And what mpg do you get on motorway runs with 300+ bhp?
Hello,
I used Castrol Syntrans Transaxle 75w 90 when I changed the oil in the Passat gearbox. I think if I was doing it again I might push the boat out and use the genuine oil. it's more expensive but as you are likely to only do it once then it's not that bad.
The Audi is good on the motorway. The standard 240bhp car top speed is 155mph so the gearing in 6th is quite high.
80mph is around 2000 RPM and if you stick to 75-80 you should get 42-45mpg easily. I have had nearly 50mpg out of it on a 110 mile trip down to Watford recently with 50mph SPECS zones on the M1 and my sister following me so couldn't go too daft.
I used Castrol Syntrans Transaxle 75w 90 when I changed the oil in the Passat gearbox. I think if I was doing it again I might push the boat out and use the genuine oil. it's more expensive but as you are likely to only do it once then it's not that bad.
The Audi is good on the motorway. The standard 240bhp car top speed is 155mph so the gearing in 6th is quite high.
80mph is around 2000 RPM and if you stick to 75-80 you should get 42-45mpg easily. I have had nearly 50mpg out of it on a 110 mile trip down to Watford recently with 50mph SPECS zones on the M1 and my sister following me so couldn't go too daft.
mattyb6
Registered User
Thanks mate
Il probably just go genuine as il be getting stuff from tps anyway
And I only really do 60mph anyway, rarely go 70-80
So I'd get 45mpg which is what I'm getting now well tbh I'm getting high 30s in the pd130 due to thermostat issues and crap tyres and what not
Th gearbox on the b6 is fine, don't think it's ever been changed at 193k, it's a tiny bit notchy
aaron.ivory.31
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A little tweak to the car.
As my car doesn't have the xenon lights and LED DRL's it gets a fairly poor halogen bulb powered DRL.
Decided to upgrade these to DRL's as I haven't had the DRL's turned on since I bought the car, they are not really worth using.
They use a strange bulb called a P13W which is actually a 13W bulb that is designed to have a very long life but are ridiculously expensive, something like £15-£20 each.
Because they last so long Audi must have thought that you wouldn't have to replace them very often so they used a moulded breakable cover over the bulb that needs to be cut out and then you use a rubber cover over the top to reseal the light.
These bulbs double as sidelights so if you had one out and took it to the dealer it would probably cost you something like £80 to change. Say the bulbs are £20, the rubber cover is around £14 and 30 minutes labor , mad.
Needless to say I didn't pay anything near those prices.
The bulbs I opted to use are badged as 50W CREE white LED bulbs, ordering them direct from Fleabay China and waiting 3 weeks is the cheaper option. I actually ordered 5 just in case I need a spare.
You can get less powerful ones but I figured that as these bulbs are monitored you need to pull a certain amount of current to avoid getting a bulb blown warning.I have checked these bulbs and they pull about 320mA (0.32A ), where as the original halogen ones are 1.2A .
I got them from this seller shop http://stores.ebay.co.uk/2008mysky?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 and cost me £23 with the postage for 5 bulbs.
I measured the diameter that the cover would need to be and had a look on Fleabay. Found a seller doing 54mm rubber lens caps that seemed ideal. Ordered 4 for £11.40 .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121331856...49&var=420388425571&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The proper cap is part number 8J0 941 607 and looks like this
The bulbs and caps I got
Audi fortunately make it very easy to remove the headlights, they even supply the tool in the tool kit.
(Borrowed this excellent picture from a user called Clear on Audizine.com )
I would recommend a new blade in your stanley knife to cut out the plastic covers. There is a thin line around the outside which is where you cut.
Heres one
And the other
The bulbs turn approx 20 degrees to lock and unlock. sometimes you have issues with LED bulbs about polarity, these bulbs work connected either way.
i found putting the new bulb in you located the bulb in the holder, then put the connector on. They are too long to fit with the connector attached. Fit that after you have installed the bulb.
The caps fit pretty well but don't grip tight enough for me so put a bead of silicone on the inside and fitted them.
If they need to come off the silicone won't be an issue.
And both caps fitted, hopefully won't need removing in the future.
This is one side done, If you didn't know the original dim orange one is on the left.
And both fitted
This is without the headlights on, they are a good deal brighter than the originals.
Took just over an hour to change them over including taking the pictures and chatting to the neighbour.
Been for a drive, done around 10 miles and no bulb failure notices so look like the car is happy.
Karl.
Hello Karl. Are canbus led's required for this upgrade?
These bulbs are monitored by the car I believe that is why I picked bulbs with a high output. As mentioned in the previous post
"The bulbs I opted to use are badged as 50W CREE white LED bulbs, ordering them direct from Fleabay China and waiting 3 weeks is the cheaper option. I actually ordered 5 just in case I need a spare.
You can get less powerful ones but I figured that as these bulbs are monitored you need to pull a certain amount of current to avoid getting a bulb blown warning.I have checked these bulbs and they pull about 320mA (0.32A ), where as the original halogen ones are 1.2A ."
I have had no issues with them and they seem to work fine. Bulbs that take less current may cause an issue. Most bulbs that state CANBUS on them just have a resistor in them to pull more current and fool the car into thinking the bulb is working fine.
All I can say is these work fine.
Karl.
"The bulbs I opted to use are badged as 50W CREE white LED bulbs, ordering them direct from Fleabay China and waiting 3 weeks is the cheaper option. I actually ordered 5 just in case I need a spare.
You can get less powerful ones but I figured that as these bulbs are monitored you need to pull a certain amount of current to avoid getting a bulb blown warning.I have checked these bulbs and they pull about 320mA (0.32A ), where as the original halogen ones are 1.2A ."
I have had no issues with them and they seem to work fine. Bulbs that take less current may cause an issue. Most bulbs that state CANBUS on them just have a resistor in them to pull more current and fool the car into thinking the bulb is working fine.
All I can say is these work fine.
Karl.
aaron.ivory.31
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Don't know if this is really your thing Karl but to do away with the ridges what about something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEw-Silic...aterials_Plumbing_MJ&var=&hash=item339105b2e9
It will Only improve airflow slightly but tesco rules apply. Love the build mate too , good all round motor !
Sean
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEw-Silic...aterials_Plumbing_MJ&var=&hash=item339105b2e9
It will Only improve airflow slightly but tesco rules apply. Love the build mate too , good all round motor !
Sean
Thanks for the suggestion and the comments, Think I will leave it as it is now have other things to play with at the moment.
Karl.
Karl.
Another small mod to the car, got a few lined up now.
This is for the Audi Drive Select switch, I enabled it a few weeks ago and have been driving around with the car in permanent Dynamic mode, instead of the default Auto mode that cars seem to be set in when they don't have the switch.
It tightens up the steering and turns the throttle pedal into a micro switch when in dynamic mode.
For the sake of the clutch and the fuel economy, it has dropped a few mpg since I enabled it, I decided it might be better to install a switch so I could go back to Auto or even Comfort every now and then without having to connect the lap top.Dynamic mode is just a click away now.
All the details for the mod are here,
http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_ADS.html
These are the bits and pieces I needed for my car, as my car is an early one with the MMI low set up I needed to replace the console trim around the gear stick for one with two switch positions.
I thought the console trim was going to be really expensive, It is a fairly big piece and is quite a complex moulding. Thus went looking on Ebay and there weren't that many with two switch positions and you couldn't really see if they were scratched or damaged. Typically trim pieces from salvage yards don't have a good life.
Quite suprised when I rang Stafford Audi and they quoted me £42.73 which included the VAT. So I ordered that however the switch was I think £57 including the VAT which was a bit steep I thought.
Fortunately after a good Google search found one in Germany on the Kufatec site, not something they normally sell it had been used for development purposes apparently and was only £27 with postage so ordered that.
The repair wires and 3 pin connector housing I got from Stafford Audi.
These are the parts I used prices include VAT.
Repair wire 000 979 009 E repair wire x 2 £3.04 each
Gearstick console trim 8K0 864 261 BV 10 £42.73
Three pin plastic plug housing 1C0 973 119 B £3.16
ADS switch 8K0 959 673 E V10 cost me £27 but around £57 from the dealers.
I used some 1mm wire about 15 feet to extend the repair wires to reach the power, earth and J519 module.
Took about 1.5 hours to wire in, fairly straight forward only 3 wires , 1 power , 1 earth and 1 to the Central control module, which was a pain as it's buried up above the accelerator pedal out of the way.
Before
And after
Karl.
This is for the Audi Drive Select switch, I enabled it a few weeks ago and have been driving around with the car in permanent Dynamic mode, instead of the default Auto mode that cars seem to be set in when they don't have the switch.
It tightens up the steering and turns the throttle pedal into a micro switch when in dynamic mode.
For the sake of the clutch and the fuel economy, it has dropped a few mpg since I enabled it, I decided it might be better to install a switch so I could go back to Auto or even Comfort every now and then without having to connect the lap top.Dynamic mode is just a click away now.
All the details for the mod are here,
http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_ADS.html
These are the bits and pieces I needed for my car, as my car is an early one with the MMI low set up I needed to replace the console trim around the gear stick for one with two switch positions.
I thought the console trim was going to be really expensive, It is a fairly big piece and is quite a complex moulding. Thus went looking on Ebay and there weren't that many with two switch positions and you couldn't really see if they were scratched or damaged. Typically trim pieces from salvage yards don't have a good life.
Quite suprised when I rang Stafford Audi and they quoted me £42.73 which included the VAT. So I ordered that however the switch was I think £57 including the VAT which was a bit steep I thought.
Fortunately after a good Google search found one in Germany on the Kufatec site, not something they normally sell it had been used for development purposes apparently and was only £27 with postage so ordered that.
The repair wires and 3 pin connector housing I got from Stafford Audi.
These are the parts I used prices include VAT.
Repair wire 000 979 009 E repair wire x 2 £3.04 each
Gearstick console trim 8K0 864 261 BV 10 £42.73
Three pin plastic plug housing 1C0 973 119 B £3.16
ADS switch 8K0 959 673 E V10 cost me £27 but around £57 from the dealers.
I used some 1mm wire about 15 feet to extend the repair wires to reach the power, earth and J519 module.
Took about 1.5 hours to wire in, fairly straight forward only 3 wires , 1 power , 1 earth and 1 to the Central control module, which was a pain as it's buried up above the accelerator pedal out of the way.
Before
And after
Karl.
Last edited:
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I looked at it and discounted it as I have the wrong ABS module on my car, 1AS instead of 1AT so the option is not available.
The only way to do it is replace the ABS module which could be pretty expensive so I have been looking out on Fleabay and have bought one which is now winging it's way to me. Bit of a bargain £78 including the postage.
I have been reading some horror stories about coding these to work on the A4, The module I have bought is from a 3.0 TDI Quattro and would have been the one installed if my car was specified as 1AT.
If I can code it then I will put it on the car, I have got some upgraded brake fluid to put in anyway so will combine the ABS module change with changing the fluid.
Just need to find a cheap switch then as they are quite expensive for what they are.
Karl.
The only way to do it is replace the ABS module which could be pretty expensive so I have been looking out on Fleabay and have bought one which is now winging it's way to me. Bit of a bargain £78 including the postage.
I have been reading some horror stories about coding these to work on the A4, The module I have bought is from a 3.0 TDI Quattro and would have been the one installed if my car was specified as 1AT.
If I can code it then I will put it on the car, I have got some upgraded brake fluid to put in anyway so will combine the ABS module change with changing the fluid.
Just need to find a cheap switch then as they are quite expensive for what they are.
Karl.
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firstly of all i cant say ENOUGH you have done a great job on the drive select. I wish I was your neighbour id learn alot off you. and id try get you to help me mod my car too..
you right about the abs unit mine has 1AT. its good for hold assist then also you will be able to enable TPMS. hold assist is good...but needs switching on each time the ignition is cycled. a pain in the A. unlike the new models.
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It's not difficult there is loads of information on the audienthusiasts site linked above.That looks epic. Fancy wiring mine in?
The ABS module I ordered from Fleabay arrived today. Looks good, No damage on it so decided to see what it would do when connected to the car. I recorded all the original ABS module config and information to compare with the new one.
Disconnected the ABS module connector and it wasn't possible to connect it to the new module as the connector wouldn't reach.
There are 2 chassis ground connections that are quite short and these were limiting the movement of the connector so undid these and extended them with a croc clip wiring connector.
Module was reachable and looked OK but was reporting a fault code.
01794 - Control Module - Incorrect Chassis (VIN) Number
According to the Ross Tech site and other stuff I have seen on the net the module just needs recoding and will learn the new VIN number.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01794
Did this and fault code now clear. Tried a few ignition cycles and looks good, so just need to swap the modules over.
Karl.
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I'm not particularly great with electrics. I don't have any patience... 
if you do get tempted, let me know what you'd charge an hour
if you do get tempted, let me know what you'd charge an hour 
Tyla1073
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Hi All,
New to the forum and great to see the work you have done Karl, makes my life a lot simpler as I have just bought this kit for my 2.7 tdi:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281562204419?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I do have one issue and that is one of the bolt heads has stripped when I tried to take it out today, it the passengers side rear next to the wing and impossible to get to by hand, any suggestions would be greatly received!
Here is a pic of my car.
New to the forum and great to see the work you have done Karl, makes my life a lot simpler as I have just bought this kit for my 2.7 tdi:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281562204419?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I do have one issue and that is one of the bolt heads has stripped when I tried to take it out today, it the passengers side rear next to the wing and impossible to get to by hand, any suggestions would be greatly received!
Here is a pic of my car.
Nice,
Needs some springs to lose the 4x4 look. Those are the same wheels I have on my car at the moment as winter wheels.
Do you mean the bolt head of bolt that secures the headlight. The one highlighted in this picture?
If it is this bolt did you use the tool suppled with the car in the tool kit, It is the correct size and these bolts shouldn't be that tight.
You can get to the back of the headlight by jacking the car up and removing the wheel and then undoing several fastners you can remove the wheel arch liner. You will then be able to get some mole grips or similar on the bolt head.
Karl.
Needs some springs to lose the 4x4 look. Those are the same wheels I have on my car at the moment as winter wheels.
Do you mean the bolt head of bolt that secures the headlight. The one highlighted in this picture?
If it is this bolt did you use the tool suppled with the car in the tool kit, It is the correct size and these bolts shouldn't be that tight.
You can get to the back of the headlight by jacking the car up and removing the wheel and then undoing several fastners you can remove the wheel arch liner. You will then be able to get some mole grips or similar on the bolt head.
Karl.
Djwoody
Registered User
Hi mate.
I have some S-line springs for sale which were removed from my 2008 3.0 TDI when it had 40k on the clock.
Would be ideal if you wanted it dropping to s-line height and keeping it all OEM.
Let me know if you are interested.
Chris
Tyla1073
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So my LED bulbs turned up today and managed to get everything completed and very pleased with the result, looks great with the Xenon lights.....fog lamps next!
Instead of using 54 mm Lens caps I took a visit to B&Q (UK DIY store) and found 54 mm Caster Cups for £3.48 and they fit like they were made for the job, a tight fit and will be easy to get off if I ever needed
http://www.diy.com/departments/bq-black-plastic-castor-cup-dia54mm-pack-of-4/241378_BQ.prd
Instead of using 54 mm Lens caps I took a visit to B&Q (UK DIY store) and found 54 mm Caster Cups for £3.48 and they fit like they were made for the job, a tight fit and will be easy to get off if I ever needed
http://www.diy.com/departments/bq-black-plastic-castor-cup-dia54mm-pack-of-4/241378_BQ.prd
Great idea, I love alternative thinking, the proper parts are a daft price, more than the cost of the bulbs for a rubber cap.
Gusty
Registered User
Hi Karl, great write up quick question those of you who've done this, Are these the sort of bulbs that would work
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321651938106&alt=web
just wanted to be sure before kicking on with this. Cheers
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321651938106&alt=web
just wanted to be sure before kicking on with this. Cheers
Tyla1073
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Hi,
Yes they will work, here are the bulbs I bought.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281562204419?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Good luck.
Yes they will work, here are the bulbs I bought.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281562204419?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Good luck.
Gusty
Registered User
that's great cheers. Those ones are a bit dearer but maybe try the others first see how they g
