Aug 30, 2009
and something doesnt seem quite right.... how should it feel to drive after it?
FAST(er) than before.
yer but how much faster? also it seems to stick a bit like when i put my foot down its almost like the clutch is dipped a bit
it should feel much more responsive to.
maybe the extra power is just making your clutch slip??
this did cross my mind, but its for exaple half way inbetween gear changes!
as in i change...... then before i change again it does it
It revs a little as you change gear? That sounds like the clutch switch... is your car drive by wire?
Bill had a 1.8t in for a Revo this weekend and the customer said it wouldn't boost above 15psi (should be 17psi at least) and took until 4k to get there... turns out his turbo is worn out (compressor wheel) and just wouldn't make the boost despite being given the ability to do so.
How many miles has your car done?
its done 140k, i have no way of working out what psi mine is doing! i guess both the clutch and turbo need doing on mine at somepoint then! how annoyin as i just dished out 350 for the map!
If you have 140k then its totally plausible the turbo is tired... grab yourself a cheap boost gauge off ebay to get an idea
The clutch switch is a common problem, gives the impression you haven't let off the throttle soon enough as you change gear. Bit a bugger to get too I think but cheap enough to replace.
Do a search, there should be a few threads here that will help.
the map will still work when and if you change them.you might have a hose collapsing....have you upgraded the DV ?
if i put my foot flat down in fith for example when it raches 3 ish it feels like im bliping the clutch , then i have to come off the acelerator and feed it out slowrer!
ah, clutch sounds like its on its way out then
that will be a bit of a bummer as i just dished out 350 quid and cant afford to throw another 390 ish at it!!
if there is also rattle when changeing gears slowly does that mean i might need a new fly wheel too? and my gears arent very easy to select so is it worth gettin a whole new box and clutch?
Problematic gear changes could be a symptom of the failing clutch and flywheel. I would change both those first (yes, its sounds like the flywheel is on its way out) and change the hydraulic actuator for the clutch while you are there as these are known to fail (will require bleeding) and aren't that expensive...
rough price on all that fitted?
Just give Audi a call for worst case scenario then GSF for parts so you know what you should be paying and find a decent independent garage to fit them...
also the will the standard clutch be enough now its at 190 bhp
Should be ok... not sure what size they fit on the A3, I am sure an A3 owner will be able to tell you for sure though...
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/A...71&1&45c24a2ab9196a0258a6dab56a4d14029f7cddb2 would that work ok? if i upgraded to a solid flywheel?
Single mass flywheels are noisier that dual mass. Prob not running enough power to warrant the change.
Its a bit of a grey area for me tbh so over to someone else??
You could also have a look around cupra net (google it) as the SEAT boys aren't shy when it comes to mods and they use them a lot.
I had this issue when i fitted a 007 with a green spring. The boost was not holding and felt like the car was stuttering as if the clutch was being dipped. Upgraded to the yellow spring and all problems have gone hold the boost perfectly now
ah right this is interesting! i have an uprated baileys dumpvalve that is atmospheric. i will try and put the standard one / get another one see if this makes any difference!
i will let you know as i really cant afford money for the clutch at the moment!
For a starter complete atmospheric valves are a NO NO on VAG's. Its recomended to stick to a re-circ valve like the Forge 007p that is very popular on this forum. If you really want the dump noise then quite a few have gone for the Forge Split-R as this is part re-circ and part atmospheric and sends just enough air back to keep the ECU happy.
Would defo try messing around with the valves 1st as they are the cheaper option.
yer my car was running fine though no error codes or anything! what was your car actually doing when yours was ill?
Well i bought my car already remapped with the standard Bosch valve = no issues
Swapped the Bosch to a Forge 007p with green spring = stuttering boost
Change the spring to an uprated yellow = no issues and smooth boost that is held all through the revs
i dont think mines stuttering, read my description a few up. i think it is the clutch cause as soon as main boost kicks in at 3k it revs up with out accelerating!
i am currently using a standard bosh recirc valve and boosting 1.1 bar it will hold it in 1st, 2nd, then end of 3rd bout 5500rpm it will pin back to 0.6 bar same in 4th and 5th do you think i need to uprate the the recirc valve to something like a 007p to maybe hold this boost ? thanks
that does sound like clutch clip fella
worse in 4th/5th gears if you full throttle from low rpms?
as soon as boost climbs, peak torque, and revs rapidly rise without the shove in the back which goes with it, is clutch slip.. you would expect to smell the burn clutch if doing this too often... which dont btw, as you may need a new flywheel too if it gets blued too much from slipping/heat friction etc
does anyone know the average price for a clutch and solid fly wheel kit that will fit my a3 1.8t sport s reg?
Go here... http://www.gsfcarparts.com/
Type in your postcode for a local shop and give them a call
yer i did they said the kit itself is 380quid and they didnt even know if it would fit my car! i dont fancy payin a garage to fit somethin then havin to pay them to fit the proper one again.
£380 sounds about right for a dual mass flywheel and clutch kit...
Also try http://www.eurocarparts.com/
Not sure if they are the exact right parts but they do have engine codes listed... you could always call Audi and ask... you may be surprised
yer i saw those!
hopefully will buy that solid wheel kit. so do i just ring audi and ask what clutch / flywheel would fit my car?
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