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Discussion in 'Audi S4/A4/A4 Cab (B7 Chassis)' started by Richardesty, Jul 4, 2009.
Do it; you will be delighted.
Added this onto the to do list for this year...
i think I agree, apart from I'm not confident with fixing my audi xD I don't want to break it xD fancy helping me out? Also is there a front arb too?
Reading the whole thread i think someone mentioned that most of the Front ARB's are the same size, but i'm not going to confrm that lol, as for fitting it, it is a pretty easy job you cant really go wrong... altho.. sometimes it does lol
You don't need to change the front anti-roll bar. The front bar is the same for all models. Keep in mind that increasing rear roll stiffness reduces understeer. So it follows that increasing front roll stiffness (by fitting a thicker front bar) would have the opposite effect.
Currently I'm on stock sline running gear n tbh it's very sloppy, I'm hoping to fit these coil overs but while I'm there may aswell do arb's at the same time I guess?
Seems like this needs to be done! I will check the drop links this weekend to see whether I need new ones or not. Will post with results when fitted also
Being old-fashioned, I think of ramps as being the wedge shaped metal frameworks that cause teh wheels to continue to support the weight of the vehicle, but approx 10" above the ground.
And the original hydraulic ramps are moving "wheel tracks" that can be raise many feet into the air.
Can you not use either of these to install the RARB, or will I *have* to get the car on the ground to bounce the suspension to settle the mounts before completing the clamp tightening?
A hoist, however, may allow the wheel to be hanging free, as is needed for many servicing operations (but not this one)
Obviously, if you let the wheels hang down, then the shape of the ARB is extended slightly (end to end), and so cannot be fitted without excessive force.
I'm surprised about the comment about the bush sizes; too much sticking and there will be residual lean, but too slack, and the roll-resistance will be decreased. So fitting the "A" bushes to the 22mm ARB might be slightly sticky, and will be worst when initially fitted, and will only wear into a "better" more nominal state. Of course, fitting the right "D" bushes to the 22mm ARB will have the right level of "give" to reduce vibration, etc.
I note that saloons and Avant have this mod; is there enough stiffness in the chassis of the cabriolet to benefit from this mod?
Or will it result in rattle of the whole bodywork?
Anyone done it on a Cabrio?
Edit: Just come across http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/audi-s...uprated-arbs-guidance-needed.html#post1973308 where this is mentioned; no actual info about the actual benefit of fitting to a cabrio.
Love the difference it made to my cab.
Thanks for the reply.
I will put this on the list; yet more card pain!
I recommend the RS4 RARB too, see my build thread for details, part numbers, costs & photos.
I fitted one to my cab and it made such a difference. For the cost it's a good modification to do.
Got mine in today to get this done. Can't wait to get it back.
Ordered the bits on Saturday from Audi for just under 140 GBP (including bolts for exhaust and drop-links)
Awaiting delivery, and then good enough weather to get out and install.
Bits have arrived, but then so has the weather.
Next stage is to get some free space in the garage, and then some free time to enjoy that space!
Fitted mine last Saturday. Roundabouts are now a completely different experience.
Best description I can come up with is that fitting an RS4 ARB "sure's up the back end".
In two minds wether to get this done...Luke from east Kent Audi said the cabs only show an S4 as the biggest bar but on the avant of course they have the rs4 bar...does anyone think the rs4 version would be a problem for the cab?
Got an RS4 one on mine.
Whats the verdict? Or did I need ask the question lool
I said earlier in the thread, love it.
One of the benefits is meant to be that it reduces the understeer, so it "sures up the front end", as well.
Moving the action of keeping the car flat to the rear wheels means the front can be left with lower task loading, and can keep the two tyres at even contact force, so both wheels contribute to the steering. When the rear is softer, the front has to help keep the car flat, and so the inner wheel has lower contact force, and helps less with the steering.
Ultimate is when an inside rear wheel lifts, and the car is in tripod mode; at this point, the rear axle has done (almost) all it can to keep things stable, and the front has to start compromising its down-forces.
Just been reading start to finish on this , sounds like the way to go.
As there has been no updates for over a year i wanted to check what the situation is re part numbers.
I was going to order parts this week but would like to check the definative parts listing /reqiurements as of june 2014 to ensure i get the correct part numbers etc.
any updates would be great guys .