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Just bought a S3, got engine/Haldex VCDS codes, shocker.....

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Mr Footlong, Dec 3, 2012.

  1. Mr Footlong
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    Mr Footlong Stalking Kate Beckinsale

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    [Dec 3, 2012]
    Hi guys

    I bought a late 03 BAM S3 last week and originally scanned it with VCDS before buying it. There were a few minor/innocent codes such as interior alarm sensor events, possible leak from central locking pump, but nothing major at all.

    Picked the car up from the dealer (I know, not my ideal choice that I bought a trader car in the end) in Uxbridge and it had a whopping 40 miles on the range... No decent fuiel stations anywhere near and the dealer had no doubt been putting £10 of grot fuel in here and there. I pootled down the M3 and filled up with V-Power, with only 5 miles on the range if memory serves. Anyway, proceeded to hoon it for the last 10 miles back home.

    The other half has driven the car a bit since but I stuck VCDS on again today and can see that not only has the dealer had the codes cleared, but these all new ones have appeared:

    Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-BAM.lbl
    Part No: 8N0 906 018 BP
    Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002
    Coding: 10710
    Shop #: WSC 13876
    VCID: 8005276880EF7E18A15
    WAUZZZ8L7xxx AUZ7Z0B22xxx
    1 Fault Found:
    16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61)
    P0328 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent
    Readiness: 0000 0000

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8L0-959-655-AI8.lbl
    Part No: 8L0 959 655 L
    Component: Airbag Front+Seite 7008
    Coding: 01104
    Shop #: WSC 01236
    VCID: 47977C7465410920A0F
    1 Fault Found:
    00532 - Supply Voltage B+
    07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.lbl
    Part No: 02D 900 554 C
    Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0010
    VCID: 2045C7E8A02F1E18015
    1 Fault Found:
    00532 - Supply Voltage B+
    07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

    From looking around I have seen that the knock sensor one may well be an anomoly, brought on by running her almost dry on guff then sticking proper fuel in and blatting it but I really don't know about the haldex one and airbag but I assume that it could be to do with a tired battery/tired alternator/unusual electrical load on the car. No chav stereo etc fitted though.

    The car is booked in with AmD for the works this next week along with engine/Heldex checks but I though it worth asking as the S3 is a new beast to me.

    Any input/mockery gratefully received.

    Thanks,

    Nick. :)
    #1
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  3. Mr Footlong
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    Mr Footlong Stalking Kate Beckinsale

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    Wow, tough crowd.
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  4. Lewis583
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    Lewis583 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    Have you cleared the codes and took it for an extended drive then check to see if it returned?

    Both codes suggest battery has at some point, probably between you viewing the car and fetching it has gone flat hence the new codes. Also when the battery is completely flat/disconnected it clears the fault codes stored.

    Has your clocks reset by any chance whilst you have owned the car?
    #3
  5. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    I know, my thread went the same way trying to work out why mine's pinking now and then...

    Have those two come back after a clear? If they do I'd be testing alternator voltage and go from there. I was always told that measuring voltage at the battery when the engine is running should be 13.5-14.5 volts. Earth straps seem to give real beef on these cars, especially in the UK where it's a bit harder on cars (compared to here).
    #4
  6. Mr Footlong
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    Mr Footlong Stalking Kate Beckinsale

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    Thanks guys. Sadly the car has sat outside all week as I have just started Chemo last Friday and have been pretty out of it this week to be honest. I wouldn't put it past the dealer to have had his guy wipe the codes just by disconnecting the battery before I picked it up....

    I am toying with the idea of taking the virtually new battery out of the LCR and swapping it with what is in the S3 as I can easily hear that it doesn't crank as instantly as the LCR but I think I may well just grab another battery, hate taking things off of perfectly functional cars. Will make sure the codes are clear and will ship madam out in the car for the next couple of days before handing over to AmD. I will see if I can get a chance to check the alternator juice on idle, I too would expect to see around 14V.

    Sam, are you saying that these cars can benefit from old school earthing strap mods? Been there, done that before on my Imprezas. I know about the flakey Haldex strap and to check the connectors for corrosion.

    Thanks.
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  7. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    Firstly, I hope everything pans out with the Chemo dude.

    Well from what I've seen (but not experienced, sorry) on here and elsewhere, the earth strap from the battery itself has known to be a bit flaky and like you say, the strap on the Haldex is often broken, resulting in FWD. A haldex service might be worthwhile if that's not been done recently too. Mine seems almost new underneath which I'm glad of. The lack of salt on the roads here is awesome, that and the lack of rain.
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  8. Mr Footlong
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    Mr Footlong Stalking Kate Beckinsale

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    Yep, I specifically requested that the haldex be serviced at the same time as the normal service. Will have a look under the bonnet and see what improvements I think I can make with additional earthing straps. may well be an exercise in futility but hey, not exactly a chore to do.
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  9. Lewis583
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    Lewis583 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    If you are going to be checking voltages, also check when the alternator is under maximum load , I.e. all lights on/heater on full/heated rear screen etc. should still hold more than 13v.

    All the best with chemo bud👍
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  10. badger5
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    badger5 www.badger5.co.uk Site Sponsor

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    if knock sensor signal too high comes back after clearing and you are on decent fuel, chances are the wirings a bit fecked. We run all new wire to it.. simplest fix I know. Microphone cable from RS/Maplins type stuff. Screened twin core.
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  11. Mr Footlong
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    Mr Footlong Stalking Kate Beckinsale

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    [Dec 5, 2012]
    Right, well after the car just about sputtered in to life today from what sounded like a shagged old battery, housemate picked up a new Varta Silver 63ah batt, same as I use in the LCR. I had also wiped the codes and told him to take the car and mildly spank her after she had warmed up. He claims he did but also says that he doesn't drive them as hard as I do when testing. Anyway, so far code-free.

    I have replaced the battery (geting 14.4V acrossthe terminals on idle, forgot to check under load) and also made sure that Bill's TIP heatshield lets the MAF pass through flawlessly which it does, as the one on the LCR needed a little bit more grinding to allow it to pass through completely ;).

    Bill, got the 2.2 TIP kit and phenolic spacer today thank you, looking forward to getting it all stuck on this girl :) Found that the oil was a bit low so have topped that up and ordered a new dipstick/tube as it as the dipstick is eating itself as per usual with these.... Thanks too for the cable tip above :).
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2012
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