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Just bought a 1.8 TQS with a few problems....

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by neilA4, Dec 20, 2009.

  1. neilA4
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    neilA4 Member

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    Hello all I've just bought a 2000 1.8TQS fith a few faults lol. I am trying to sort them all out, any help apprecated, i've used the search button to find a few solutions...

    -Temp gauge cold all the time (will change thermostat, vagcom reads same temp whilst it is stood still and getting warm)

    -Central locking not working (graphite impeller is shattered,)

    -Fuel tank gauge intermittent (will use guide on here to fix hopefully)

    -Airbag light on, tried resetting in vagcom but fault pops back up (side)

    -Took the instrument cluster out to find 2 bulbs missing (left hand side), no handbook so don't know what the symbols mean and where can I get the bulbs?

    -whilst trying to fix the central locking pump I noticed the foam was all wet, If I put my hand inside/up the cavity it feels wet, where can the water be coming from? Could it be the rear window seal??

    also are facelift and preface bonnets the same?

    cheers for any help:beerchug:
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  2. olds_kool
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    olds_kool Active Member

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    airbag, you need to fix before resetting, usually a spray of wd40 on connections will do it
    bonnet, different but only washer jets
    bulbs, probably not missing but for factory options (tow bar etc..)
    pm me for locking pump impeller
    #2
  3. rasA4
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    rasA4 Four Rings Mafia Specialist

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    if heater warms ok prob the temperature sensor?

    PM olds_skool he should have some for sale

    probably the seat airbag poor connection take pins out and bend them slighty or use a different connector? where does vag.com point fault?

    no pre face has washer jets on top of bonnet facelift has them concealed
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  4. Geeman
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    Geeman Low Life

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    Where is the temp sensor? is it the one on the lower rad hose?
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  5. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    Its in the metal water gallery at the back of the cylinder head.
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  6. Geeman
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    Geeman Low Life

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    ...where is that? You got pics of it please?
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  7. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    Follow the top radaitor hose.

    Runs along the side of the cylinder head then turns round the back. About half way along at the back the CTS is there.
    #7
  8. Geeman
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    Geeman Low Life

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    ...so, what's the sender on the lower rad hose? Is that the fan pick-up point?
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  9. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    no idea.

    Nothing on the lower hose on mine that i can remember, but i dont have electric fans, so it could be that?
    #9
  10. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Later cars had the sender for the fan in the hose like Giles has, the ealrier cars had them in the side of the rad themselves
    #10
  11. neilA4
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    neilA4 Member

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    changed the coolant temp sensor today, no change so will do thermostat tommorow. sensor was £30 from the stealers:banghead:


    Also noticed my front n/s driveshaft is clicking, was very bad on full lock. Will I have to replace the whole shaft or will I get away with replacing the outer cv joint (bit with ABS ring) ?

    cheers
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  12. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    Get yourself to a motorfactors and get a new CV joint.

    Forget the stealer for things like that.
    #12
  13. ian52
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    ian52 2000 a4 1.8tqs-yellow

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    When i done the temp sensor on mine i got it from a shop on ebay for about £6 i think. My driver side cv clicks too but i have never bothered to change it but it is starting to annoy me now so may get one too. When you go to take the joint off just hold the joint in line with the shaft and screw the hub bolt right in and it pulls the joint right off for you.
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  14. hardhitter
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    hardhitter Member

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    A thermostat is £18.00 + VAT RRP at Audi.
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  15. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    Or about a fiver at your local motorfactors.
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  16. mugglesquop
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    mugglesquop Member

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    i've never got anything direct from Audi before (or any stealers for that matter) is it just a case of phoning them up? dont think there is a dealer where i am
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  17. neilA4
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    neilA4 Member

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    Got the stat from partco £4.80ish

    All fitted and now runs at a steady 90deg, one thing I have noticed is that the pipe after the stat doesn't seem to get warm ( lower rad hose )? but if the termostat wasn't open wouldn't the car overheat?
    #17
  18. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Bleed the system again to be sure. !

    It is slow at letting water out to the rad as even though the engine water jacket is up to temp the system would overcool by opening the system early
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  19. neilA4
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    neilA4 Member

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    Ok i'll bleed it again tomorrow.

    Fixed the c/l impellar today £6 from a scrapyd! all working well, noticed the alarm siren wasn't plugged in, so offered the plug up and it went off! I'm now partially deaf. The indicators weren't flashing so don't think the alarm had been activated? May be internal battery of the siren dead?

    Also it started raining, and water was coming in inside the wing, must be the rear window bonding? is there any other way water can get in through the roof on a non-sunroof car?

    Oh and whilst under the car noticed one of the aux belts is frayed (the shorter one)

    The more I look at this car the more i find wrong:scared2:

    Cheers
    #19
  20. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    which belt was it?

    Theres a long one that does crank, alternator, PAS
    A shorter one that does crank -> AC
    and a really short one that does PAS -> waterpump.

    If its the really short one, you want to get it sorted ;)

    While there may be things wrong, you need to remember, for a lot of people its just a "crappy old car" so things like proper servicing and maintenance go out the window. I'd say that unless its been owned by an enthusiast, you'd be hard pushed to find a B5 that doesnt need a rake of work to get it into tiptop condition. So far the items have been cheap, and it seems you can do the work yourself, so it shouldnt take too much effort to get the car in tip top shape.

    Also, the bottom rad hose is the return. Its supposed to be colder ;) hot water leaves the cylinder head on the top hose, and enters the radiator where it gets cooled (its like -5 outside mind!) and it goes back in on the bottom hose. Since the outside temps are so low, you'd really need to run the engine at high load for a good while to get the entire radiator up to temperature, as the flow thru it will be very low when its so cold outside.
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  21. neilA4
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    neilA4 Member

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    It's the belt on the left, crank to a/c compressor?

    I'll do all three for now not mega expensive. The cambelt looks shiny but not cracked, so hopefully that will last till next payday.

    I can fix most stuff myself, just checked the oil which is black and a bit thin, so i'll do that at the same time methinks. The dipstick seems to just sit on top of the tube, not slide in a bit like other cars I've had?

    cheers
    #21
  22. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    The dipstick is supposed to have a thing like this on it:

    http://www.ecstuning.com/product_library/988/300/Dipstick Tube Extension.jpg

    That snugly fits round the tube from the block.

    If the oil is manky, it might be worth giving the engine a flush, as they're renowned for oil pressure issues from being run with knackered oil.

    My favoured approach is to drain off a litre or so of the oil, refill with diesel, and run the engine for 10mins at fast idle, 1500rpm is fine. refill with some half decent synthetic oil, 5w40, and change it frequently. I do mine every 5k or so, although i've neglected it a little because its getting a new engine soon.

    I would definately be investing in an oil pressure guage, as its critical you know whats going on, and the OE pressure switch is next to useless, as it only comes on when the engines over a certain RPM. Ours idles with 8psi of pressure when its hot, but no warning lamp!
    #22
  23. neilA4
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    neilA4 Member

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  24. neilA4
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    neilA4 Member

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    right , got a few bits on order now!

    Engine Oil (5W40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil (5 Litre))
    Oil Filter
    Q-Drive CV Joint (Front outer)
    ContiTech Drive Belt x 3
    Air Filter
    Pollen Filter

    all togeter £80 from eurocarparts

    spent an hour or so getting under driver seat for airbag connection, no joy and fault code keeps coming up, Read the fault code properly and it said for passenger seat :banghead:

    Anyone know if an avant front bumper will fit a saloon front bumper?, I've just realised that this car has a pre-facelift bumper fitted without fogs!! Also noticed there were only 4 wheel bolts in out of five lol (all sorted now from scrappy)
    #24
  25. adamss24
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    adamss24 Well-Known Member

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    You might wanna buy a GKN/Lobro cv boot kit as it comes with the corect gaitor and metal clip. By the way, the cv boot kit wich the dealer supply is made by GKN just packaged in a different box !
    #25
  26. ian52
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    ian52 2000 a4 1.8tqs-yellow

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    I will have a facelift front bumper with fogs,headlight washers and a votex lower lip for sale soon if your interested.
    #26
  27. neilA4
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    neilA4 Member

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    already ordered the q drive one mate

    i've just bought bumper/fogs now mate. found it in same colour too!, cheers anyway.
    #27
  28. GforceA4
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    GforceA4 Member

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    How much u wanting for this?

    Cheers gareth
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  29. ian52
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    ian52 2000 a4 1.8tqs-yellow

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    Not sure yet. Will be off in the next week.
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