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INLET MANIFOLD MOTOR bank1 and bank2 OFF MY 3.0L TDI

Discussion in 'Audi S4/A4/A4 Cab (B7 Chassis)' started by johnmandy, Nov 15, 2011.

  1. wjam
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    wjam New Member

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    I've just asked superchips if they can map it out or change the tolerance.. Ross tech told me the tolerance is 2% so if the motor moves +/- > 2% past expected the light is on and the motor is disabled. I feel it is a manufactured way to get customers back in to part with cash. I have noticed no difference to mpg with disconnected motors.. Maybe a little would be seen in town driving but for that money you'll put a lot of diesel in your car.

    The reason it knows there is a problem is because the motor relies on the end stops of the flaps to give it it's position (If you disconnect the motor will move further. Now if the end stops were in the motor then the problem would never happen. Only danger is if the flap actuator broke it wouldn't know.

    I'm all for mapping out and throwing the motors in the nearest bin

    cheers

    WJAM
    #41
  2. wjam
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    wjam New Member

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    Audi even included a handy bracket on the flap motor mount to bolt the flaps permanently open :)

    WJAM
    #42
  3. johnmandy
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    johnmandy Member

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    Care to explain a bit more.

    thanks john
    #43
  4. hazey7
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    hazey7 Member

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    Or even a photograph?!
    #44
  5. johnmandy
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    johnmandy Member

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    As the original topic starter, i have now given up any sort of repair on these inlet manifold and motors.

    During a strip down today it was found the linkage to the flap was so worn, far too much play to salvage any sort of fix, so a new setup is needed for bank 1.
    I havn't given up hope of salvaging its motor to repair bank 2, i still believe they are the same motors, i only need to strip to confirm,( i will post results). The linkage for bank 2 does seem machanically sound, so hopefully a result.
    Lastly, i have contacted emap solutions with respect to mapping out the MIL light coming on problem, if this is possible, my hope would be it was just cancelling out the sweep test part of the operation, and not just turning the MIL light warning off permenantly, ( i believe it carrys out other diagnostics besides the sweep test for the intake manifolds).

    Cheers john
    #45
  6. johnmandy
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    johnmandy Member

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    Right, i have managed to swop motors, they don,t seem handed, and all numbers written on the motors indicate they are the same, it turned out to be an easy job with the only slight hassle being a bracket attached to one motor and little access to get at the nut, without moving other parts, anyway i was able to jiggle that motor out from its base without too much trouble, you will have to push the bracket out slightly.
    I connected vcds to the car and cleared all the previous faults relating to this issue, re-scanned and find that bank 1 now works correctly,
    obviously i still have a fault with bank 2......... but it now becomes half the cost of the original problem, at least for now.


    hazey7,
    You wrote.............

    However, what I can see is that one rod (they have a pivot at each end - a ball joint) is vibrating, sort of jiggling around, indicating it is very slightly loose at both ends, the other inlet manifold's rod feels tight and solid and doesn't move.

    Try this for a possible fix,........
    Disconnect the problem motor from its base unscrewing its 3 torx screws, using 3 suitably sized washers, stainless if you can get them, insert the 3 torx screws back into the motor put the washers on the motors base, this will have an effect of shimming or spacing the motor further away, hence taking any slack out of the control arms be very careful not to drop them, it maybe a good idea to captivate the washers on the torx bolts solve this problem........ you can do this with a rubber band over the threads, this will perish as you tighten up the screws/
    You should carry out the procedure one washer thickness at a time until all the slack as been taken up.
    Hope this partial fix may help at least in the short term.

    john
    #46
  7. hazey7
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    hazey7 Member

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    Thanks John, that sounds like an interesting fix.

    Sorry to be pedantic, but will spacing the motor off in this way either move the 'point of completing feedback' to the ECU? further or closer?

    I understand it will help to take up the slack in the rid; but will help or make worse the original problem?

    Hope you get my drift on this? Would love to hear from someone more capable than myself on mechanical things who has completed this mod.
    #47
  8. johnmandy
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    johnmandy Member

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    Hi again hazey7,

    Its perhaps not really a mod, more a possible fix, don,t get me wrong it may not help in your case, but if it does it saves a few pounds and gets rid of the MIL light.
    I,m a toolmaker by trade, so always think of a way to eliminate tooling problems, in your case it sounds like the sweep test is functioning correctly, but the flap is travelling, (because of the slack), less than the desired distance, so in effect if you space the unit just right, taking out the slack on the arm, it should start moving as the motor operates and not wait for the slack to be taken up first.
    On a previous reply, i think someone mention the calibration if +/- 2 degrees out will throw the light, so taking the slack out of the arm may gain your tolerance back.
    Just be careful if you try it to use one spacer (washers) thickness at a time, you don,t want to overdo it.
    And of course, do everything you can to stop the dropping down onto the engine casing, not sure whats below there.
    I managed successfully to swop my motors on saturday, they do in my opinnion look identical, all the wording and letters on the units are identical apart from the last line, which looks like a manufacturing date etc, so i was confident too swop. The MIL light hasn't re-appeared even after 30 stops and starts, whats more bizzare is the fact that the motor thats never worked as suddenly started working, so maybe i,ve touched the plug and wiring and cleared a bad connection.

    Hope this helps a little more.

    john
    #48
  9. farmer audi
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    farmer audi New Member

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    Good evening all,

    i am new to this forum , so bear with me please
    I left aberdeen this morning in 57 plate 3lt a4 quatro 67000 miles, only to get past Glasgow and then this light come on,
    Stopped at a helpfull carlisle audi for the them to pop it on diagnostic ect and then tell me the inlet manifold need replacing ,,,,
    all because the lower limit of the flap was not reached due to excess play on ball and socket ....
    i have not noticed any lack of performance due to car being chipped with steinbauer box
    whats the best fix to take up slack rather than the £ 375 per side plus 3 hours labour ,

    After leaving carlisle i carried on to leeds and then back to aberdeen tonight and the light never came back on ......

    has any one got help from audi with this repair interms of heavily discounted ect, seems daft to have this occuring at such low miles

    many thanks for any help
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2012
    #49
  10. bdub
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    bdub Member

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    My local audi dealer did say they would contribute based on the fact the car had full audi dealer history ( even though I didn't buy it from them. This would have been either me paying for the parts or the labour. - in the end I did it my self as either way was going to cost £350.

    Try them and see, some dealerships are more accommodating than others, particularly when it comes to customer and brand loyalty.
    #50
  11. hazey7
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    hazey7 Member

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    Hello again everyone,

    Yes, but has ANYONE ACTUALLY had the 'INT MAN RUNNER B2 LOWER LIMIT NOT REACHED' fault mapped out so that this particular fault ONLY stops the MIL illuminating?

    We don't seem to have had any feedback from anyone who has actually had this carried out.... only people saying you could...

    Unless I missed it?

    Cheers all
    #51
  12. johnmandy
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    johnmandy Member

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    Since my original topic starter.... i have not seen the emissions light come on at all, since swapping motors.... bare in mind bank 1 actuating arm is not even connected to its flap assembly, bank 2 is definetly working... hope this may be of some intrest.
    #52
  13. mattandrew
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    mattandrew Member

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    Interesting read this thread

    My friend has the following error

    Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
    Part No SW: 8H0 910 401 A HW: 8E0 907 401 AL
    Component: 3.0L V6TDI 000SG 0060
    Revision: --H03--- Serial number:
    Coding: 0011911
    Shop #: WSC 00672 785 00200
    VCID: 204459688A53


    4 Faults Found:
    004120 - Intake Manifold Runner (Bank 2): Lower limit not reached
    P1018 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded


    I have priced up the part for him but need to know is bank 2 the left or the right motor

    Thanks in advance Matt
    #53
  14. johnmandy
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    johnmandy Member

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    Hi mattandrew,
    not sure which bank is which, i forget now..... but if your buying the part from audi, they'll work it out for you..... i get a technician to my car so there's no mistake.
    Perhaps one of the senior members will answer shortly.
    #54
  15. mattandrew
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    mattandrew Member

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    The parts guy was telling me he cudn't tell if left or right from the code

    I will have to have another look at the car

    Oh I missed a bit off the which Rosstech wiki states, check the V275 maybe this will show in Elsawin
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012
    #55
  16. jdp1962
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    jdp1962 Grumpy Old Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    My engine management light came on this morning, and stayed on. It's going in to my local indie tomorrow for a service and MOT, so I'll get it scanned at the same time. I have a bad feeling that it's these pesky flaps.
    #56
  17. paulpaul
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    paulpaul New Member

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    Hi, I have the same fault and I was told that if the engine management light was on it was an automatic MOT failure, can that be right if the emission readings pass test?
    #57

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