Ignition feed wire

halls

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Hello all, I'm hoping someone can help! I'm trying to fit the parrot mki9200 into my 2006 A4 cab, is it possible to piggyback off the cigarette lighter rather than back of fuse box for the switched ignition?

Many thanks
 
Didn't think the cigarette lighter ran off a switched ignition. Thought it was on all the time.
 
ah gutted i thought that would be the easiest way to do it.

Which is the best wire at the back of the fuse box to connect to?

Thanks for your help
 
Also make sure you choose a circuit thats not loaded or extra current may blow the fuse, maybe a slightly higher fuse should be used, on the 8P eg. fuses 1-11 are ignition switched, prob same for others or use a spare fuse point & actually wire in the new fuse point properly, your choice, latter is a bit more work.
 
Never use a higher rated fuse. The fuse is there to protect the wiring, if it blows then the wiring is not capable of handling the current draw. Putting in a higher amperage fuse will stop it blowing and your wiring will then act as the fuse = not a good idea. The parrot will not draw any significant current so you should be fine with the stock fuses.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, is there a particular fuse I should be looking out for? I presume I just splice into the corresponding wire at the back of the fuse board?

Thanks
 
I didnt say stick a 30amp fuse in a circuit thats for 5amp did I, common sense does usually prevail.
 
Not too many 6amp blade fuses on the market my friend, you'd have to jump from the rated 5a to 10amps - not a great idea
Halls, you need a 12v testing screwdriver (£3 from maplins) and just find one that goes on/off with ignition, then splice into the cold side (the side protected by the fuse) on the back of the fusebox. Worthwhile also sticking a small inline fuse (0.5 or 1a) in the new feed as well so it has it's own protection.
 
Then use a 7amp, I should think that even a .35-.5 wire should be ok for that current load & they're the smallest on the car.

He has a few options, he can take his pick, personally I create a new fuse position for anything that isnt spec'd for that position.

Also certain fuses are rated based on the combination of components, so eg. if fuse 4 was a combo of say pdc & interior lights, alot of cars dont have say the pdc but the fuse may still be rated for that circuit, if it is then I see no issues tapping into that position Halls, checking the car fuse guide helps.

As I said common sense prevails, well it should anyway & if he's doing this himself he must have a degree of technical knowledge to realise current loads & wire gauges, fuses etc.

Only certain way to know it wont be an issue, is to create a new fuse position from spare ones.
 
I have some technical knowledge, however i have never had to create a new iginition wire or splice into one before.

I origionally thought I could go off the cigarette lighter to the ignition cable on the parrot, so I have bought 8amp cable. Now that im going into the back of the fuse board will this cable be too thick? The parrot wire is really thin and does have an in-line 5amp fuse.

Also what we be involved in creating a new fuse position?

thanks gents
 
Please never ever put a larger fuse in any circuit - that is simply an industry no-no.
Just for info - blade fuses go up in 5a intervals but even if you could get a 7a blade that is nearly 50% more than the rating of the wiring so a definately dangerous thing to do.
It's a moot point anyway as all the fuses in the fusebox have plenty of headroom so running a small accessory from them will be fine no matter which you use.
Go for a 5 amp cable just for ease of use and as the device is already fused then that's all you need to do. You can get fuse taps as well which make tapping into the fusebox easier, but you really don't need one.
 
Thanks for your help guys, managed to fit it successfully using a piggyback fuse, nice bit of kit - just got to play around with sound settings now!

cheers
 

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