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HPFP - Banjo bolt to Bamboo fitting

Discussion in 'Audi S4/A4/A4 Cab (B7 Chassis)' started by OxfordRich, Feb 18, 2013.

  1. OxfordRich
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    OxfordRich Collecting Rings

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    [Feb 18, 2013]
    Folks,

    On my 2.0T FSI B7, I have managed to damage the head of the Banjo Bolt which holds the hard line to the high pressure fuel pump. I was going to remove the pump to check the cam follower, but I must have damaged it last time I put it back on there.

    I would like to convert to the 'bamboo' style barbed connection with flexible hose they used in later years. Can anybody help with part numbers suitable for the BUL engine? The links from the GTI forums all show a pipe that is vastly different to the one on my car.

    I need to get the bolt removed, so intake will probably have to come off to get the pump off to do this anyway, it seems a good time to swap the hose but I can't find anybody that's done it on an A4.
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  3. OxfordRich
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    OxfordRich Collecting Rings

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    [Feb 18, 2013]
    Ok, I've spent time and worked this out !

    Cars made up to 1st of December 2007 will use the Banjo, and from then on they use the Bamboo fitting. You can change from Banjo to Bamboo with the following parts, which are special order.

    item number 17, 06D127509N Quantity 1 £137.09 inc VAT - (metal fuel pipe)
    item number 31, 06F127511B Quantity 1 £4.79 inc VAT - (rubber fuel hose)
    item number 1B, 06F127213C Quantity 1 £19.80 inc VAt - (Fuel pump bamboo adaptor)
    item number 25, N90986501 Quantity 2 £1.23 each inc VAT - (spring hose clip)

    There is plenty of discussion about this on the internet for the 2.0T installed into the GTI and A3 but the part numbers for the hard fuel pipe are different because it's a different layout.

    I hope this will help someone.
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  4. olethalb
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    olethalb Member

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    [Feb 18, 2013]
    You don't need to undo that bolt to remove the pump bud, it's far too fiddly and risk rounding the splines off.

    I'm upgrading to the later type as they came on a new intake mani i bought :)
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  5. OxfordRich
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    OxfordRich Collecting Rings

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    [Feb 18, 2013]
    In my case, the splines are already rounded :whistle2:

    What do you mean you don' t need to remove the banjo bolt to remove the pump? I'm also upgrading to the later type because I need this to be nice and easy for regular cam follower checks.
    #4
  6. olethalb
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    olethalb Member

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    [Feb 18, 2013]
    I must of had my pump off seven or eight times, the quickest and easiest way for me is taking it out like this

    [​IMG]
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  7. OxfordRich
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    OxfordRich Collecting Rings

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    [Feb 18, 2013]
    I'm pleased to see so many others have a nightmare with that bolt.. and that's a nice clear picture of the pipe, thanks! ...But how on earth would you remove it in one piece without taking the intake off first?? Surely that's not possible..
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  8. olethalb
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    olethalb Member

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    [Feb 18, 2013]
    I pull the rad pipe back like this

    [​IMG]

    and simply undo the 17mm union

    [​IMG]

    and the other one under the inlet on the fuel pressure valve and pull it out as one
    #7
  9. OxfordRich
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    OxfordRich Collecting Rings

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    [Mar 1, 2013]
    Well, I already thanked Olly in private but here it is again.. I thought removing this pipework and pump in order to get this stuck bolt removed was going to cost me a fair bit at a garage, but I've done it myself using the above sage advice.

    I've spent the extra on the conversion parts I listed above, in future I will be able to check my cam follower by undoing the 17mm fuel union and just moving the pump as it's connected by flexible hose. No more banjo.

    And of course, here's what this is all about.. this is my second cam follower in around 50,000 miles so I'll be checking more frequently from now on, it's worn through the protective covering:

    [​IMG]
    #8
  10. NHN
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    NHN Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat Site Sponsor VCDS Map User

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    [Mar 1, 2013]
    Hows your back :p
    #9
  11. OxfordRich
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    OxfordRich Collecting Rings

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    [Mar 2, 2013]
    Yeah the back is knackered.. yesterday was bad enough but today I powered on and discovered the reason for my under-boost :)

    SO thanks again to Olly who provided a couple of decent pointers for removal of the N75 valve - as it happens, I didn't need to worry about breaking the connectors during removal and here's why!

    [​IMG]

    Yes, it was already broken and probably for some time as you can tell.
    #10

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