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HOW TO: Fit cruise control to an A3 1.8T (pic heavy)

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Endacy, Aug 1, 2011.

  1. Endacy
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    Endacy Member

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    [Aug 1, 2011]
    Here is how I fitted cruise control to my car. Some steps aren't there such as trim removal etc. because it's pretty self explanatory once you get there.

    I found this guide also very useful from a TT website: http://www.ttoc.co.uk/absolutte/Archive/A16/A16_P36_41_FINAL.pdf

    And I used the instructions I got with the kit which are the same as these here from VW Teeside: http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/ccs.pdf

    Firstly the tool to remove the steering wheel, an M12 spline tool:

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    IMG_0523 by Endacy, on Flickr

    New stalk, part number 1J0 953 513 01C

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    IMG_0524 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Loom for the stalk that goes to the fusebox and bulkhead connectors part number 1J0 971 425 A:

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    IMG_0525 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Extra loom required for 1.8T because basically the loom above goes to the bulkhead connectors, these then connect to the ECU loom, however on 1.8T's there is no connection to the bulkhead connectors to the ECU, so you have to run extra wires from the bulkhead connectors to the ECU and open the ECU connector and connect to the 4 pins required. This one I bought is part number 1J0 971 425 B which is actually for a 1.4 VW engine, however one end of this connects to the bulkhead connector, this is same on all cars, the other end has the ECU pins on, however for the 1.8T the ECU connector already has unused spare pins with no wires connected, SO you can buy the proper 1.8T one with the proper ECU pins already in place and slot them in (£24 from VW Teeside on ebay) or buy this one I bought, cut the pins off that have the red rubber seals on and solder the bare wires to the ECU pins (cable £3 from VW Teeside on ebay) OR buy a few bits of wire, and three pins from Vehicle Wiring Products (part numbers 3 x 3-8020 and 1 x 3-7209) and make one yourself (very easy indeed).

    I wouldn't mind betting VW Teeside sell the 1.4 cable so cheap because nobody buys them, bet they'll go up now!! These have genuine VAG part numbers are are the genuine product BUT are not available from dealers. Go figure.

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    IMG_0526 by Endacy, on Flickr

    This is the end result when in the car, the loom from the stalk on the left, the loom to the ECU on the right, the pins get connected as shown but through the bulkhead connector:

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    IMG_0527 by Endacy, on Flickr

    To the car then, remove battery, leave 30 minutes, remove airbag (2 x T30 screws on rear), pull electrical connector off the back (yes the yellow plug comes out the back of the airbag, pull!), release metal clip across centre of wheel. Use new M12 spline tool to undo big nut:

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    IMG_0528 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Closeup, disconnect yellow rubber plug from airbag, not this plastic yellow plug (yet).

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    IMG_0529 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Nut removed, marks exist to line up wheel, notice slightly offset, remember this position, mine was offset either to the right or left, it could not be lined up exactly due to the splines:

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    IMG_0530 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Pull off yellow plug, pull off steering wheel. Now the slip ring is visible, on some models with ESP this shouldn't be played with (I think), better safe than sorry so I taped it up:

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    IMG_0531 by Endacy, on Flickr

    And pulled it off, release connector on rear as you do so:

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    IMG_0532 by Endacy, on Flickr

    OK so I skipped a little here, steering column shroud needs to come off, then undo locking ring and slide off the stalks and unplug them. Then separate then using the little plastic clip on the windscreen wiper side, the official instructions are wrong and show the screwdriver in the wrong side, just be careful. Basically to the left of the right hand barcode is a little clip, slide a screwdriver between the plastic ring and this and they just slide apart without any effort, if it doesn't come apart you're probably doing it wrong so take a closer look as you do it:

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    IMG_0533 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Loads of trim removed, loads of screws and bolts undone:

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    IMG_0534 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Remove windscreen wipers, mine were properly stuck so I used a puller, a bit big but it worked. I put a spare M8 nylock nut on the spindle to locate the pullers central bolt and prevent damage:

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    IMG_0535 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Remove scuttle plastics, what a pain, it pulled the trim off the bottom of the glass and cracked a bit, so BE CAREFUL!

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    IMG_0536 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Remove wiper motor a mechanism (3 bolts) and you can open the bulkhead connector box:

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    IMG_0537 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Black connector is the one we want, notice the lack of connections in it, unclip the top one, unclip the bottom part of it and push it into the car:

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    IMG_0538 by Endacy, on Flickr

    View from inside footwell showing the back of the bulkhead box. Relay plate unbolted to see this (2 nuts):

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    IMG_0539 by Endacy, on Flickr

    ECU is located centre of bulkhead under scuttle below windscreen. Pull the big plastic thing on the left outwards while pulling connector off ECU:

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    IMG_0540 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Cut cable tie, squeeze the back and remove, pull out purple thing from inside wires, slide out purple thing from the other side of connector, pull out plug boards and seals (yeah I skipped some steps but it's obvious when you get there and I took pics below as I reassembled):

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    IMG_0541 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Here are the pins that are unsued, identify proper pins from the instructions (mine's an AJQ engine but any of the 1.8T's have the same pins like AUM, AUQ etc.), there is a number at one end of the board next to the first pin on that side, you then count along to identify the right pins. Once you have the right one, use a tiny screwdriver to poke into the side and release the clip and then slide out the pin:

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    IMG_0542 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Poke new wire through seal, strip off end, solder to pin. These pins are designed to have the wire just pushed in and they cut into the insulation however the wires I have are slightly too wide for this, and I like the solder more anyway. The pin needed a little tab slightly bending to the allow the stripped wire to sit right, again it'll make sense when you try it probably. The locking tab needs bending back out slightly to get the pin to lock back into the plug board.

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    IMG_0543 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Couple more done:

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    IMG_0544 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Push pins back, push boards and seals back into connector, push purple thing back in:

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    IMG_0545 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Like this:

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    IMG_0546 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Push purple thing into the back (pain because of wires):

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    IMG_0547 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Cable tied back together with the back on:

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    IMG_0548 by Endacy, on Flickr

    No, wait, black one:

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    IMG_0549 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Run new wiring along main loom:

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    IMG_0550 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Push this purple thing out of the connector a bit, rubbish thing it is. Install new wires as per instructions into the connector, put purple thing back. This means the ECU is now connected to the bulkhead connector on one side.

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    IMG_0551 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Moving to the fusebox you need to run one wire for the main power. What it doesn't tell you is this purple thing is a lock and MUST BE MOVED to allow the connector to be installed. It moves all of 1mm to the left in the photo, the securing bit you can just see on the bottom right:

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    IMG_0552 by Endacy, on Flickr
    #1
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  3. Endacy
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    Endacy Member

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    [Aug 1, 2011]
    Two tiny watchmakers screwdrivers rammed down the side of the connector on fuse 5 from the fuse side (i think it was 5) after the lock is released and out pops the connector. push in new wire, push old fuse connector into new plug, plug into socket, new wire is therefore spliced in (makes sense when you have it in your hand):

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    IMG_0553 by Endacy, on Flickr

    OK so I chose a stupid route for the main loom to the bulkhead connector which left the power wire too short, and I had to run it a properly ugly way. I'd walready spent ages upside down putting cable ties around the loom and just couldn't face it again!

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    IMG_0554 by Endacy, on Flickr

    I didn't take pics but the main loom is cable tied neatly and then the four connectors are installed in the bulkhead connector and clipped back into the box then the ECU part is plugged into it. Fiddly because the relays and stuff are all in the way on the inside.

    After this reassmble, activate and test with VCDS as per the Ross Tech Wiki

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    IMG_0555 by Endacy, on Flickr

    Take for a test drive, enjoy!
    #2
    Barks likes this.
  4. TDIQ
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    TDIQ 8L > 8P > 8V

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    [Aug 1, 2011]
    Nice write up. Where did you get the stalk from? Is eBay the cheapest do you know?
    #3
  5. Barks
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    Barks Member

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    [Aug 1, 2011]
    Good Guide, did it work?? I have fancied doing this for a while.
    #4
  6. gavin89
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    gavin89 Wana go Low gotta go Slow

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    [Aug 1, 2011]
    What a guide!! Thanks mate, always wanna do it, never got round to
    #5
  7. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Aug 1, 2011]
    Good work... added to stickies :)

    <tuffty/>
    #6
  8. Endacy
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    Endacy Member

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    [Aug 2, 2011]
    Yeah I think it is, I got mine for £60 posted, there is a company doing them for £70 posted buy-it-now (you'll still need to source / buy / make the 1.8T 4-wire loom).

    Also you could buy the stalk loom from VW / Audi for £29, make the extra loom and get a secondhand stalk for an average of £20-25 on ebay, or cheaper if you're lucky. The older design stalk (8l0 part number version) is cheaper on ebay secondhand but this is a nicer / better design (1j0 version).
    #7
  9. Endacy
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    Endacy Member

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    [Aug 2, 2011]
    Thanks for the positive comments, I skipped a few bits but it was simple stuff most of it, I concentrated on the 1.8T stuff which I couldn't find elsewhere on the internet.

    Yup it works, tested all switches with VCDS first then went for a drive. It's great!! Easy to use and super smooth too.
    #8
  10. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Aug 2, 2011]
    VW Teeside do the kits on ebay for just under £90... they also sell the looms seperately too...

    VW Teesside items - Get great deals on VW Parts, VAG Parts items on eBay Stores!

    Fitting guides are available from here...
    VW Teesside items - Get great deals on Fitting Guides items on eBay Stores!

    The two looms are currently listed as bulhead loom (£33.60) which is the loom from the stalk to the bulkhead connectors and 121 pole ECU loom (£23.60) which then goes on to the ECU... the kit seems to suggest it only comes with the bulkhead loom... some cars (TDi's) came with the ECU loom already wired in so maybe this is why they are selling it without... worth an ask... I bought my kit from them a couple of years ago and it came with 3 looms...

    <tuffty/>
    #9
  11. TDIQ
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    TDIQ 8L > 8P > 8V

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    [Aug 2, 2011]
    Does anyone know the main difference between the 8L0 and the 1J0 stalk?

    TPS can get the 1J0 stalk for £55 + VAT so £66 all in so eBay does appear to be the cheapest unless TPS would offer some discount.
    #10
  12. Endacy
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    Endacy Member

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    [Aug 2, 2011]
    Look here: VW Teesside - Online Shop - Retrofit Cruise Control

    There is a little picture. Basically the RES/+ button it moved to the end making it match the one the other side with the rocker control. Looks easier to use generally because then the rocker on the end becomes +/- speed once it's activated.
    #11
  13. Wingnut Express
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    Wingnut Express Audi sponsored by Mastercard

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    [Jun 17, 2012]
    Guys urgent help needed got the kit but what wiring configuration I should use for a AMK Ecu? Is should it be the same as the AUM & AUQ, as I have the car in pieces and neither the manual that comes with the kit or the info on the stickies confirms this

    Thanks
    #12
  14. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Jun 17, 2012]
    Should be... the ECU's are more or less the same outputs/inputs

    <tuffty/>
    #13
  15. Endacy
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    Endacy Member

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    [Jun 17, 2012]
    The pins are the same if you have the same *number* of pins on the ecu. As I recall there is only two, a 55 pin (or similar number, for 1.4's I think) and a 140-odd-ish pin, like our 1.8t's. Pins should just be the same on all these I think.
    #14
  16. Wingnut Express
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    Wingnut Express Audi sponsored by Mastercard

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    [Jun 17, 2012]
    Thanks guys
    #15
  17. Wingnut Express
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    Wingnut Express Audi sponsored by Mastercard

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    [Jun 18, 2012]
    I used the wiring instructions for the AUM engine and this all worked fine on my AMK. Would have taken less time if one person was stripping the interior and one other doing the exterior, but took 6 hours all in, including removing the wiper blades from hell.

    Really great mod, but my back is busted from being bent over the engine bay for so long (No jokes lads)
    #16
  18. Ibzzzzz
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    Ibzzzzz Member

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    [Aug 14, 2012]
    Did this in just under an hour.... One word of advice though douse your wipers in wd40 the night before. Or you'll do what I did a few year back with my a3 and crack the screen
    #17
  19. Ibzzzzz
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    Ibzzzzz Member

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    [Aug 15, 2012]
    Bit annoying that a light doesn't come to tell you that it's activated but it's a must have mod for sure
    #18
  20. vfr800
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    vfr800 Active Member

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    [Aug 15, 2012]
    Just paid Teeside for the kit - I wonder if it will arrive in time for the weekend to fit it :)

    Liam
    #19
  21. bigpapasmurf
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    bigpapasmurf Member

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    [Aug 21, 2012]
    Does anyone know where I can get one of the splined tools for taking the steering wheels off? Thanks
    #20
  22. vfr800
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    vfr800 Active Member

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    [Aug 22, 2012]
    Christ what a mission.

    It was bright sunshine at 6pm when I thought I'd install my cruise control I forgot the nights are closing in and nasty big black clouds full of rain turned up - not good as I'd already removed the wipers, mechanism, scuttle and electrical connector bulkhead plate.

    My two pence : if you have to force any of the connectors then you're doing something wrong. They all come undone pretty easily when manipulated properly.

    I hate those stupid purple clips which lock things in place - especially on the fuse box.

    By the time I'd removed the dash and wired in the internal part of the loom it was dark. I left it with the bulkhead to ECU loom still to install - I put everything back together (in the dark as my flood lamp bulb popped) switched the car on and realised I'd forgotten to plug the wiper motor and washer jets back in when replacing the scuttle.

    I do need to find some way of passing the new loom through the bulkhead box to keep it water proof. My bulkhead box does not look like the one in the guide above.

    I think a trip to maplins to get a water proof cable gland will do the trick. Then I can finish the job.

    I did find the scuttle wasn't sealing due to lots of cr*p and debris in the groove so it's all nicely cleaned up and the scuttle seals properly now.

    @nicollow - have you tried looking on the Internet? They're pretty easy to come by. Halfords sell them - I got a full set of 1/2 inch ones from Sealey AK6215 Sealey

    Liam
    #21
  23. kyle.1.8t
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    kyle.1.8t New Member

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    [Apr 16, 2013]
    Hi guys will this work on a 1997 a3 with the agu engine

    Thanks kyle
    #22
  24. vfr800
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    vfr800 Active Member

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    [Apr 16, 2013]
    The AGU throttle is on a cable so no 'fraid not.
    #23
  25. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Apr 16, 2013]
    Nope, sorry... DBW throttles only, yours is cable...

    <tuffty/>
    #24
  26. kyle.1.8t
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    kyle.1.8t New Member

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    [Apr 16, 2013]
    Dammit. :( :( cheers guys.
    #25
  27. m6rk
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    m6rk New Member

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    [Dec 20, 2013]
    just followed this guide and was really useful. I just thought i'd take the time to say thanks :) I bought the kit from teeside vw off ebay which came with all the looms etc ready wired to go..

    Only difference I found on my 2002 S3 was that there was a metal cover over the ecu with anti-tamper bolts which I needed to drill out which was a pain.. I bought a windscreen wiper arm puller which made short work of removing the arms.. only other hassle was getting the pin out of the fusebox.. in the end I went to my local motor factors and stumped up for a pin removal tool which worked a treat..

    coded with vcds and et voila :)

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    #26

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