How to build an engine?

S3_Mitch

S3_Mitch

Money pit owner
Joined
Jun 17, 2015
Messages
171
Reaction score
22
Points
18
Location
South East
Hi all,

I have a newly christened stage 2 s3 (265bhp, 265ftlb badger torques), it is burning oil suspected valve stem seals and is running the original turbo (130k) which is working flat out to produce 20psi.

I graduate this summer and I plan to rebuild the engine, the head clearly needs work and IE rods will be fitted. At this stage I plan to upgrade to a GT2871 keeping the build cost to a minimum without cutting corners.

I plan to do all the work myself (short of machining the head etc.) but I have no experience working on an engine. My real question is, would it be better to:
1. Remove the head, leaving the engine on the car (refurb/refit), then fit turbo, rods, mani etc?
2. Invest in a hoist/engine stand, remove the whole engine, rebuild and fit all new hardware, then refit?

Advice is appreciated, as always.

Thanks.
 
Take it out , sooo much easier on a stand. A stand is about £40, crane is a lot more so rent/blag one. You'll end up changing and fixing quite a few other things as well.
 
100% engine out it makes everything so much easier if your doing so much work. Its going to need a clutch if your going bigger turbo, its going to need headwork, its going to need rods piston rings etc at the very least

Make your life easier and take it out
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3_Mitch
Being in the middle of an engine build at the moment, I can't imagine how much more awkward a huge amount of it would be in the car. Don't get me wrong, there's the faff of getting it out/putting it back in etc but realistically the extra access and space you have to work is worth it all day long.
That said, given you're not pulling the crank it'd certainly be possible to do in the bay if you had no way to remove/refit the engine.
 
Not really an engine build if all you are doing is changing the rods tbh..

If you are just changing the rods (new rings and bigs too I assume) then it can be done leaving the block in but if you plan a proper engine build where mains bearings, oil pump tensioner etc is to be replaced then engine out

You would be advised to do a compression and leak down test prior to stripping the engine just to make sure you have a good start point as I have seen far too many engines with more wear than expected fail to perform even with new rings...

Worn bores is a reality with 1.8t's these days and seeing as you are looking to fit a GT turbo then its worth making sure the engine is sound enough to warrant just replacing the rings (hone the bores of course)

One thing to consider is that there is very little off the shelf stuff for a GT based turbo so most stuff like water lines and oil lines will need to be fabricated... this is generally easier with the engine out the car

GT2871 is a bit of a redundant turbo these days though but being internally gated its a bit cheaper build wise but just manage your expectations power wise

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks for the replys, sorry for the misleading title..just trying to get attention. This is the information I need, i'm yet to properly research everything at the moment as I should be focussing on other work.

I'm changing the rods through fear of failure and i know the head needs work, as for everything else I do not know what needs doing to the engine as I still need to research. I will get the tests do though..

As for the turbo, I was under the impression the stock water and oil lines were used?

As a 'final' figure for this car I would be happy with somewhere near 350bhp.

Thanks.
 
S3_Mitch said:
Thanks for the replys, sorry for the misleading title..just trying to get attention. This is the information I need, i'm yet to properly research everything at the moment as I should be focussing on other work.

I'm changing the rods through fear of failure and i know the head needs work, as for everything else I do not know what needs doing to the engine as I still need to research. I will get the tests do though..

As for the turbo, I was under the impression the stock water and oil lines were used?

As a 'final' figure for this car I would be happy with somewhere near 350bhp.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Stock lines are for a K04... won't be suitable for a Garrett GT2871

What manifold are you going to use? T25 top mount?

350hp is achievable on this turbo...

<tuffty/>
 
Was planning on using the relentless v4 T25 flange, the info I have is from the facebook group
 
It will be next to useless imo... T25 is larger than the Pro4 collector...

<tuffty/>
 
I suggest you do a bit more research and you should have a read of superkarl's thread as he has done something similar to what you have planned

<tuffty/>
 
I will do, i'm just going by what I have read.. It seems there was a relentless mani with the appropriate flange fitted at one point so thats what I went by. This post was mainly concerning the best way to apprach the work as opposed to the build itself.

I've not thought about this route much and I am not adverse to the hybrid route, the main driver is cost. I would like to keep the cost under 3k really..
 
From what I have read regarding this turbo vs hybrid the hardware is pretty much the same with the exception of flanges/gaskets but the turbo can be bought much cheaper than a hybrid which is why I lent towards this route. Again, I think 350bhp is a fairly modest figure these days.. I simply want to get there as cheaply as possible.
 
Its all chinese mate...

Quite frankly its not a set of components I or most on here would use. in combination.. but... as you say you are on a budget, its been 'done' before so it does 'work'

How long for is anyones guess and what other issues you may have is unknown... difficult to advise on a path of modification I wouldn't personally go down but I guess you have to do what you got to do with the budget you have.

Put simply they are cheap bits... reliability and longevity isn't typically high on the list with this kinda kit but it has the potential to make some power.. if you can live with that then all is good...

No mention of injectors or fuel pumps in the article you linked to either

<tuffty/>
 
I intend on fitting 550cc injectors and new OEM fuel pump or better.. Was also planning on using WMI, I don't even limit myself to the china turbo.. I could source a genuine Garrett one.

All I know for fact is that the head is getting done no matter what and my turbo is likely on it's way out so I didn't really want to go for the standard setup if I'm going to be putting in so much work.
 
<tuffty/> said:
Stock lines are for a K04... won't be suitable for a Garrett GT2871

What manifold are you going to use? T25 top mount?

350hp is achievable on this turbo...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

<tuffty/> said:
It will be next to useless imo... T25 is larger than the Pro4 collector...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

superkarl said:
Go hybrid unless you're going all out BT build. Don't half **** it.
Click to expand...

You're overlooking all of the above.

You will be no better off putting a Garrett, genuine or fake, onto a pro4, over an actual ko4 hybrid.

As I said. All or nothing, no in between.

You also need to consider all the supporting things. It's not just a case of a turbo and a manifold
 
Actually working on the car is what I truly enjoy, it is a project. I know it won't be perfect and compared to most builds on here it will probably look like a bodge but if I end up with a half decent car with close to 350bhp I'll be happy
 
Yeah I understand and always expected the hybrid to be the better option and it's my original choice but I just read some interesting posts and got intrigued
 
Inline pump or maybe a deatschwerks would be advised... OE pump will struggle at that power level

Its not just the turbo thats the issue... there are reports of Pro4's cracking... the GT28 is a heavier turbo... but like I said... as long as you go into this knowing that and happy to accept that there failure of components is an option then all good... and lets face it they are cheap enough to replace if you have to...

<tuffty/>
 
Yeah I was thinking that it might not be the end of the world having to replace relatively cheap components. I don't do a huge amount of miles of hard driving either.. I've seen reports of this build lasting over 10k at higher boost than I would use, that's a few years for me. I only need a few years to get settled and I should be able to afford better kit
 
Thanks for the advice, I've got a while to research and plan..

With regards to my original question though, engine in or out of I planned on doing all that's required for this build our hybrid etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Engine build
Replies
0
Views
846
Markisgoing
M
S
How easy is an engine swap?
Replies
7
Views
1K
SammA3
S
F
Help with APY to AMK Engine swap
Replies
8
Views
3K
Stuart B
Stuart B
8
8l engine rebuild how to
Replies
4
Views
3K
8YA335TDI1STED
8
S3 Paul
Engine build ideas,
Replies
20
Views
2K
S3 Paul
S3 Paul
Top
Back