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how hard is it 2 fit a turbo 2 a non turbo 1.8 v5

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by rik_t2005, Apr 28, 2009.

  1. rik_t2005
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    rik_t2005 New Member

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    hi first things great site im new 2 here and new 2 audi's iv got a 8l a3 with the 1.8 v5 its just had a full respray and new wheels and its startin 2 look the part but i want more POWER so i was thinkin turbo but how hard is it and want parts will i need i can do most sh*t to cars but don't want 2 f**k it just tryin also has any1 tryed fittin a supercharger cuz iv got 1 of a cooper s knockin about :) love the site and thanks if u can help
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  3. A3ster
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    A3ster Member

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    From what I've heard not hard but very expensive, it will work out much cheaper selling the current Audi and buying a 1.8T factory built. Not want you wanted to hear but the truth non the less.
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  4. Purple Princess
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    Purple Princess Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    :sign_welcome:

    New engine, Wiring loom, intercooler pipework, turbo, exhaust, air box, MAF.
    Just a few things for your shopping list.
    The b/f has done it to his B5 A4 (ByzanA4) and it worked out ok and not too expensive for him as he collected the parts over a long time(12-18mnths) He is also a very competent mechanic and did alot of research.
    It is worth it as his car is his pride and joy and yes you could buy one factory fitted, however you would not have the sense of acheviment when people say "wow you did that yourself!"

    Good luck matey hope it all works out oh and one other thing....ebay will be your best friend if you do decide to do it! :)
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  5. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    no harder than dropping a 1.8t in a Mk2 Golf!

    easier to buy the engine and loom than to fit it all to an exisiting NA 1.8 20v
    plus you will likely get all the bits you need.
    I just sold a 1.8t with turbo, both manifolds, TB, Loom, pipe work all engine ancillaries etc for £700.

    you would struggle to buy all the turbo parts and then decompress the head for £700.
    (you need to space the head with an extra head gasket as a minimum)
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  6. Prawn
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    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    would you have to fit a new engine though? I was under the impression that the turbo engines wierdly ran exactly the same compression ratio as the n/a engine at 9.5:1, which is very high for a turbo motor.

    I'm sure the 20v engine would still have a knock sensor and things, so is there any reason you can't just fit all the turbo ancillaries and turbo wiring loom to the bare n/a 20v engine?
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  7. Prawn
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    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    A quick look in haynes confirms what I thought, both 1781cc engine, turbo and non turbo, run 9.5:1 CR.

    So you wouldn't need to do anything to the head in theory at all....

    I see no reason why you couldn't use the turbo exhaust manifold and inlet with all the turbo ancillaries on the non turbo engine.
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  8. S3 HODGE
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    S3 HODGE Brown passenger seat.

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    Sounds like a good idea....Just make sure you take your time with it. Id go buy a 1.8T engine and just drope it in :yum: Save you money and time.
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  9. rik_t2005
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    rik_t2005 New Member

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    thanks every1 not goin 2 sell it not only just got the body sorted think i mite start lookin 4 a donar car then i can put my engine in my mk1 golf :)
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  10. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    CR on a NA engine is 10.3/1 and 9.5 /1 on a turboed one. The port sizes are different too.

    I agree that on std boost pressure it would probably be ok to stick the manifolds on and stuff a turbo on the side. But thats an awful lot of work for 25bhp. As i assume once the turbo was fitted the OP would want more power again thats possibly afforded by chipping etc, and thats when you run into problems

    Also i am not sure if all of the oil and water connections are there on the NA lump, so these would need to be ran somehow,it would be an intersesting project.

    I went the whole hog and swapped all the parts for turbo ones, that way i can buy parts from the shelf without trying to match parts up or guess which engine they came from origianlly. Also the diags work as they should so i can Vag-com to ensure she is working as she should
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  11. Prawn
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    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    Really Mark? I was always under the impression that both n/a and turbo engines ran 9.5:1. That's what the haynes manual says, and I've always believed they were the same, as I've always thought 9.5 is high for a turbo engine and low for an n/a engine, so probably just a compromise to negate different head volumes.

    Don't port sizes differ across the range anyway? With the AGU's and other early engines having much larger ports than the later engines?
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  12. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    Maybe its an a3/a4 difference, i happend to have the A4 manual beside me to look ( sad eh?)

    I think the main problem would be the oil and water feeds from and to the block, it certainly was when i looked at it on my A4, thats why i stuck the whole lump in and went from there
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  13. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    I guarantee that by the time you have bought, exhaust mani, turbo, TIP, dvierter valves, N75, Loom, coolant and oil piping for the turbo, various bits and bobs to make it all fit. you will end up spending more money than you would buying a whole block with all the bits for the conversion and then selling your NA block to someone who wants one.

    too many little bits you won't get and will have to buy new
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  14. Prawn
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    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    Perhaps it is an A3/4 difference, I've got my haynes beside me too :p (student room, everything is close to hand!) and it states 9.5:1 for both.

    As for oil feeds, the turbo oil feed is taken on my AGU from a take off on the heat exchanger just by the oil filter, so that wouldn't be an issue, water feed is more part of the cooling system, and I'm fairly sure it comes from a y-piece somewhere on the drivers side of the engine bay.

    Looking at a passat 20vt a few weeks ago, there are loads of little differences between it and the transverse chassis.

    The only thing I'd be unsure of is the material spec of the pistons on the n/a engine, there seems to be a whole load of bullshit going around about forged pistons in certain 20vt engines and not others, but nobody seems to be able to confirm or deny any of it....
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  15. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    and your NA block is 10.3, they all are. 9.5:1 is way too low for a high performance engine (and 20v comes under that banner).

    [​IMG]
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  16. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    as for pistons and rods.
    highly unlikely they are significantly different but here is a spec for the 1.8t

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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  17. rik_t2005
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    rik_t2005 New Member

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    has any1 fitted a supercharger b4 cuz i had 1 fitted 2 my 1.6 vtec civic and it wud kill type r's allday long
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  18. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    there a plenty of SC 1.8t's knocking around. just look on youtube

    including a famous dual charged Mk2 golf running G60 Glader and KO4 iirc
    search youtube for trendytramp
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  19. ianysm
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    ianysm Active Member

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    [Apr 28, 2009]
    Wow i just swap cars!!
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