1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

How do I correctly jack the S3?

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Bad Sir Culation, Dec 9, 2013.

  1. Bad Sir Culation
    Offline

    Bad Sir Culation Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    17
    [Dec 9, 2013]
    Sorry for the multitude of questions today folks.

    I've been searching this for the last hour and am not sure what to do.

    Under the car it appears there are some square bits behind the sills that look like they would be jacking points; but looking here:
    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-sportback-8p-chassis/114676-jacking-up-a3.html
    and other places, it seems that you use these "hockey puck" type rubber blocks and jack the car on the actual sill itself?!

    That just goes against everything I believe in when jacking cars! I'm unable to accept that the sill will not bend or dent.

    Is there anywhere else I can jack, or do I have to buy these blocks from Audi??

    Thanks all.
    #1
  2. Ads

    Ads

    [Nov 1, 2014]

  3. Gops
    Offline

    Gops 6th gear @7000rpm

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2009
    Messages:
    2,648
    Likes Received:
    289
    [Dec 9, 2013]
    It'll be fine mate.. That's where I have mine up. If the jacking plate is flat then underneath should be fine.
    #2
  4. Bad Sir Culation
    Offline

    Bad Sir Culation Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    17
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    So you jack on the sill with the hockey puck type rubber blocks?
    #3
  5. A3_130
    Offline

    A3_130 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2012
    Messages:
    84
    Likes Received:
    4
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    I jack on the squarish reinforced bits you mention (jacking points) but use a standard hockey puck on the jack cup to save marking the metal. Was £4 ish on eBay and gives great grip. :)
    #4
  6. Bad Sir Culation
    Offline

    Bad Sir Culation Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    17
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    The square bits on the floorpan with the round rubber bits on them? That's where I would have guessed to jack, but was worried after reading lots of conflicting information. It seems nothing is ever straightforward with these cars!

    I'm happy enough then, that I can jack the front on those points, with some padding on the jack cup. What about the rear though? It doesn't have those same squared areas, does it?
    #5
  7. rupe
    Offline

    rupe A3 TQS

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2013
    Messages:
    203
    Likes Received:
    25
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    If you Jack where the rubber bungs fit for using a lift then they will collapse in, unless you lift the whole front end together or the whole car ideally, mine are a bit bent from previous owners jacking their I guess.I have one of those hockey pucks with a groove cut out for using on the sills, was under a fiver delivered off eBay.
    #6
  8. Bad Sir Culation
    Offline

    Bad Sir Culation Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    17
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    Bought a couple of those this morning, just in case, but I have to say, I am really uncomfortable with the idea of jacking on the actual sill. It just seems like a bad idea. I've never known a car be strong enough there to not cave in when jacked.
    #7
  9. [Dave B]
    Offline

    [Dave B] Daddy

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2003
    Messages:
    2,015
    Likes Received:
    129
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    Fronts - I use a small piece of wood on top of the jack seated on the reinforced 'wavy' metal behind the sill.

    Rears - Use the wood approach again but place it across the area where the hockey pucks would mount.

    The wood stops the jack tearing the underseal and distributes the load over a larger area to stop it bending anything.
    #8
  10. Bad Sir Culation
    Offline

    Bad Sir Culation Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    17
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    Any chance of a photo of the points you use for clarity? And also a pic of the wood so I can gauge size?

    Cheers!
    #9
  11. epox
    Offline

    epox Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2012
    Messages:
    683
    Likes Received:
    41
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    i use 400mm 4x2 under the jacking points on the cill, then put stands under thst and remove the trolly jack. back and front

    mark
    #10
  12. [Dave B]
    Offline

    [Dave B] Daddy

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2003
    Messages:
    2,015
    Likes Received:
    129
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    I also use 4x2 but it's a piece a little shorter, maybe 200mmish. Can get you a pic of the mounting area but it'll probably be the weekend now as it's pitch black when I'm not in work.
    #11
  13. epox
    Offline

    epox Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2012
    Messages:
    683
    Likes Received:
    41
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    the longer the 4x2 the more it spreads the load along the cill
    mark
    #12
  14. Alex C
    Offline

    Alex C Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Messages:
    2,741
    Likes Received:
    182
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    there is a point at which increasing the length of wood makes no difference
    #13
  15. superkarl
    Offline

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Messages:
    7,729
    Likes Received:
    1,180
    [Dec 10, 2013]
    is that what she told you....
    #14
    Alex C, [Dave B] and s3dave like this.
  16. Alex C
    Offline

    Alex C Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Messages:
    2,741
    Likes Received:
    182
    [Dec 11, 2013]
    actually it just gets painful
    #15
  17. Bad Sir Culation
    Offline

    Bad Sir Culation Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    17
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    Well I'm out trying to jack the car and getting pretty pissed off. The rubber hockey puck blocks I bought are grooved but the groove is too shallow to accept the entire depth of the seam along the bottom of the sill.

    That's just the first problem. #2 is that the blocks also will sit right against the sill cover if I try to use them. That's not going to be ideal and I would expect damage to the outer sill.

    #3, I cannot for the life of me see ANY markings indicating where the car should be jacked. There's nothing there. Absolutely nothing. Wiped the bottom of the sill clean, got down there with a bright light etc. There's nothing whatsoever marked on the skirt.

    Help! Need this up in the air in the next hour.
    #16
  18. epox
    Offline

    epox Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2012
    Messages:
    683
    Likes Received:
    41
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    put the 4x2 under the cill roughly center it on the step on the cill put the head of the jack in line withthe step on the seam and jack up

    mark
    #17
  19. epox
    Offline

    epox Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2012
    Messages:
    683
    Likes Received:
    41
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    #18
  20. Bad Sir Culation
    Offline

    Bad Sir Culation Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    17
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    Cheers, that's a really good idea! I've ended up just jacking on the big silver subframe bolt at each side, hehe one farthest back from front, and putting stands under the sill jacking points. I had 5 mins away from the car then went back and it suddenly all became clear.

    Was very nervous jacking on those bolts, but all my other cars have always been very strong on any subframe mountings.
    #19
  21. 16Klappe
    Offline

    16Klappe RacecaR forward is RacecaR backwards. Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2008
    Messages:
    5,556
    Likes Received:
    1,040
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    Jacking on the chill, you mad? Chassis legs and a low entry jack ftw.
    #20
  22. epox
    Offline

    epox Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2012
    Messages:
    683
    Likes Received:
    41
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    must be lucky then... timber is supported on the lip which the oe jack fits into, plastic cill is close but timber not touching.. ye cheep jack but thats only used to get the car uo then stands fitted to the side and jack removed.. used this way to replace discs calipers etc front and rear with no issues. pics were just a guide as one else had replied to the post.
    mark
    #21
  23. [Dave B]
    Offline

    [Dave B] Daddy

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2003
    Messages:
    2,015
    Likes Received:
    129
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    Inner sill not outer sill!
    #22
  24. Bad Sir Culation
    Offline

    Bad Sir Culation Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Messages:
    287
    Likes Received:
    17
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    Yeah the stands and rubber blocks are under the inner sill with the lip along the bottom. I rang a specialist yesterday who told me to do it this way.
    #23
  25. Sam_
    Offline

    Sam_ Down under

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2011
    Messages:
    2,862
    Likes Received:
    367
    [Dec 15, 2013]
    Or just get the ECS jack pad kit.... Makes life way easier and is an OEM solution.
    #24

Share This Page