Hi I am in Atherstone Warwickshire...

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markthenewt

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As above, anybody out there who knows these cars like the back of thier hand near me like to have a look at mine and tell me if you think its ok or not.

I dunno where to start lol.

Obviously I will pay you with cash or beer.

Cheers.
 
Whats wrong with it,what car is it?

Let us knw and you may get some help and advice.....
 
Hmmmm where do I start, had engine management light come on a week ago and got these 3 fault codes...16486 16795 17705.

Cuts out when cold pulling up to a junction or Island but fine once warmed up, lumpy idle, possible boost leak.

I think I may have brought a shed lol.

Had all coil packs changed on Monday.

I did ask wht the codes mean but no reply.

Engine light has not come back on since being reset on a vagcom.

I know all these Q's have been asked thousands of time but where do I start to cure the problems???

Going to attempt to get the anti tamper screw off the maf now and give that a clean and check pipes but after doing that I don't know what else to do.
 
Wahey finally got the tamperproof screws off with mole grips to clean the maf sensor, please can somebody confirm if I need to do a ECU reset by disconneting the battery for an hour or so???
 
You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery, but just remember that you may need the code for your stereo....from experience, cleaning the MAF, rarely fixes the issue, to test if you have a faulty maf, disconnect it and drive, if its the same, its not that.

Also, have you checked on google for those fault codes, you should get all the info off there in a flash, if you want to put your results on here, someone will be along to advise what you can do to resolve.

Also you didnt answer what car it is that you have.

That would help alot........
 
You don't need to reset anything with regards to the MAF sensor, it either works or it doesn't, but a knackered one will flag a DTC(Diagnostic Trouble Code) up, but not always.

Stalling can be a sign of knackered temp sensor or cam sensor also.
 
Hi there thanks for the replys :)

I didn't reset the ECU and glad as I don't have the radio code.

It's a Audi a3 Quattro 1.8t sport apy 2003

Right i'll start again with whats happened/happening now.

I have only had the car 4 weeks.

Last week I took my mate out for a blast, all was fine but when I turned the car on the next day the engine management light was on so I got another mate to scan it and it brought up these fault codes.

16486... 16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too Low

16795... 16795/P0411/001041 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected

17705... 17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)

So after getting these codes he reset them. Since then the EML has not come back on.

I tried disconecting the MAF the other day but only took it on a short run as the traction control light come on for some reason while the MAF was disconected so did'nt really feel much of a difference, connected the MAF back up and the Traction light went off.

So anyway today I gave the MAF sensor a clean with Isopropyl spray to see if it would cure the 16486 code.

Called my mate up to check to see if any codes where there again and there was these...

16486... 16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too Low

17705... 17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)

But these 2 codes would have been loged in the ECU from when I diconnected the MAF at a guess.

Then we reset these again, took it for another drive and now I have no fault codes.

The car seems a lot smoother and quicker so hopefullly that has cured it.

We found that the oil dipstick tube was broken and dip stick was just sitting on top of the tube... maybe this was causing the stalling as air would have been getting in??? For now I have just put a load of insulation tape around the dipstick so it fits in the tube and not drawing any air in.

JoJo you say could be a knackered temp sensor or cam sensor, would these show up as fault codes if they was faulty because it didn't?

What do you think dudes?
 
Last edited:
Thats normal for the TC light to come on when you disconnect the MAF, so dont worry about that....

The dipstick holder is about £3.79 from Audi and its a 10 minute fix maximum, get it done mate.

See how you get on and if it feels any better over the next day or two and report back.
 
Nilz said:
Thats normal for the TC light to come on when you disconnect the MAF, so dont worry about that....

The dipstick holder is about £3.79 from Audi and its a 10 minute fix maximum, get it done mate.

See how you get on and if it feels any better over the next day or two and report back.
Click to expand...

Ok mate thanks a lot, I have a long run to go on today so will know later if it's any better or not.

Do you think the stalling could have been because of air getting in the dipstick tube?

I'll nip over to Audi tomorrow and get a new tube.
 
audi upgrades
Just phoned audi and going to get my new dipstick tube... Also ordered a 5ltr pot of oil @ £28 and filter for £6. The bloke at Audi asked what the millage was and I said 120.000, he said it's the right oil to use... Just want to be sure though, should I use the Audi oil or go for something else?

Cheers.
 
What rating of oil did you get??

I always use 10w/40...
 
Nilz said:
What rating of oil did you get??

I always use 10w/40...
Click to expand...

I brought this oil Audi/VW Quantum PLATINUM / PD Oil - 5 Litres - 5w/40 | eBay UK

But not from the bay, from the stealers and got charged £28 for it :/ But it's the correct stuff as its approved 502 00 fully synthetic... Bloke said it would be ok to use as I have 120.000 miles. The oil in the car is a black as Chillien miner lol so thought even if I use it as a flush till I get some reccomended oil,cough cough,it will do???
 
So guys should I use this oil or not... really need to know as I want to change the oil today.
 
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