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Help Removing Oil Filter Bracket (cam Chain Tensioner Related) 1.8t Ary

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by tstephens, Aug 27, 2014.

  1. tstephens
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    tstephens New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    Hello,

    From about the time I first serviced my a3 1.8t quattro to now (8 months), it has made a rattling noise on startup and rattles on idle once it gets warm.

    I've recently had it diagnosed as 'cam chain tensioner' by a VAG specialist, although he did only give it the cursory look over whilst it was running.

    I'm currently looking at a £800 bill all told, for the VVT £400 OEM part and the labour, as I don't trust myself to fix something as serious as this.

    As a last resort I was linked to this thread on the ttforums: http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/view...s=0&postorder=asc&highlight=oil pump&start=10

    It states that startup and idle warm rattle could be attributed to a faulty non return valve found in the back of the oil filter bracket. For £15 + VAT, I think it's worth investigating before I put my car on the market and say goodbye for good.

    I've searched the forums for a guide on removing the oil filter bracket but not found anything of any use.

    Has anyone done this job before? Has anyone ever cured their rattling problem with this before? And if I am going to take off the oil filter bracket, do I have to drain my oil? Surely this is a very messy job.

    Thanks for reading.
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  3. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    In my experience if the VVT is rattling then the VVT needs replacing... the non return valve would only prevent the rattle on startup not idle as there would be pressure there... the non return valve prevent oil from draining away from the head when the engine is off... thats it...

    You can buy cheaper VVT tensioners from GSF... I use one of these and have had no issues so far...

    <tuffty/>
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  4. tstephens
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    tstephens New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    tuffty,

    Thanks for your reply.

    Are you referring to this one: http://www.gsfcarparts.com/023vg0140

    If so I think, with the labour, it's still going to be outside of my price range. I set aside about £400-500 to fix this problem but I'm told it will be many hours work.
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  5. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    Many hours work LOL.... 1 to 1.5 hours tops mate... I can do these in my sleep

    Only have to lift the inlet cam out... only other costs to consider is a new tensioner gasket (£5) and I'd replace the cam cover gaskets too (around £15)

    <tuffty/>
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  6. tstephens
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    tstephens New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    Really?

    In that case, would it be reasonable to expect me to do it in an afternoon? I've changed the oil pick up before, as a measure of how competent I am with engine repairs.

    Also, what are the risks of me doing this wrong? Could I easily **** the engine up if I put something back wrong? Can I break other things as I replace it? Just worried as it's my only car and my only way of getting to work.

    Edit: Would you recommend replacing the chain too? If that's what the rattling sound is, it's taken a bit of a battering over the last few months.

    Cheers!
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  7. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    The hardest part is ensuring the cam to cam timing is right... you don't have to remove the inlet cam sprocket from the chain to change the tensioner but its a pain keeping it all together... changing the chain would require removing the exhaust cam too I think as there is very littl room to slide it off... this will be a bigger job due to the cam belt...

    Here are a couple of links to my build thread where I have done this work to give you an idea...

    http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/my-minor-modding-thread.76389/page-49#post-1802095

    http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/my-minor-modding-thread.76389/page-49#post-1802727

    and a pic of the cam to cam timing setup...

    [​IMG]

    To set this make sure both cam timing marks are aligned... normally easier to rotate engine back wards until inlet is cock on then rotate forward to line up the exhaust as the tensioner will compress

    <tuffty/>
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  8. tstephens
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    tstephens New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    This seems like it would be outside of my capabilities.

    With that said, do you reckon, based on my description, that the chain will be fucked? If not, then I might just book this in for the 1-1.5 hours work and the replacing of the tensioner with the GSF part.

    Thanks again tuffty.
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  9. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    Chain should be ok... they do stretch a little over time but I only replace chains on new engine builds typically... the ones that get removed always seem ok tbh...

    Only time they tend to get damaged really is if the guide pads break and the chain makes contact with the tensioner

    <tuffty/>
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  10. tstephens
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    tstephens New Member

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    [Aug 27, 2014]
    Thanks for your help tuffty.

    If anyone's interested, I'll keep the thread updated and let you know what happens.

    I rang the garage that I previously had asked to do the work and they said that they would happily do the work with the cheaper part, but wouldn't condone it, and would recommend swapping the chain if they're in there.

    Will have to sleep on it, I think.
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