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Help - P3103 V157 - Motor Intake Manifold Flap - EGR Valve...How do i solve?

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by kaz219, Aug 4, 2008.

  1. mike foster
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    mike foster Fossie VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 5, 2012]
    Sorry - my mistake. If it was 10 amp in the first place then that's fine but please bear in mind that you should never replace a fuse with one of larger capacity. You can use a smaller one but never a larger one !!

    Good luck and let us all know the outcome please
  2. owenjt
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    owenjt Member

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    [Feb 17, 2012]
    Can anyone confirm whether it's still ok to drive your car if your inlet manifold motor needs replacing?

    My emissions light came on today and the symptoms suggest the motor or flaps. I'm getting it diagnosed tomorrow but I need to drive to Hertfordshire on Monday (roughly 250 mile round trip) so if it is the motor I won't be able to get it replaced in time. Don't want to be driving if there is a risk of breaking down/further damage.
  3. owenjt
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    owenjt Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Well I got this checked out this morning, diagnostics say:

    19557 - Motor for intake Manifold Flap (V157) Open or Short to Ground P3101

    17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit Short to GND P0691

    19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157) No Signal P3102

    Replaced the blown fuse and the flap motor started up, not making very good noises though. The engine management light has gone out but it's still not happy.

    Think it's time to repace the motor. TPS quoted me £270! Still need to drive to Hertfordshire though so hoping it's ok.
  4. owenjt
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    owenjt Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Crazy how prices can vary from one place to another, Audi quoted £335.69 whereas GSF are only £234! Think i'm going to have to risk driving it as I really don't have the time to get the part and fit it. Seems to be running ok at the moment.
  5. Chris-P
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    Chris-P Audi Newbie

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Try euro car parts they seem to be good on price:)
  6. owenjt
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    owenjt Member

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    [Feb 18, 2012]
    Not cheap enough...

    Audi: £335.69
    TPS: £318.90
    Euro car parts: £246
    Ignition car parts: £214.84
    Murrays Direct: £188.85
    Worldcarparts: £178.80
  7. Ason
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    Ason New Member

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    [Feb 26, 2012]
    Hey, im new here and must say thanks for al tips,
    I have a VW Touran TDI -04

    I have a new Manifold flap home now,
    And when i connect the elctrical connection to it and turn ignition on it starts to sounds like the old one "brrrr"
    and it starts to move little close/open,
    So i think that i have other problems,
    any one that know how the electrical connects is
    1 - 0VDC
    2 - 12VDC
    3
    4

    what i think it should be power on pin 1-2, and what should be on 3-4 is that feedback or a setpoint from the control unit?
  8. joshxs
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    joshxs Member

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    [Feb 29, 2012]

    How did you get the circuit board out of the throttle body? I can't seem to get it out!

    Cheers
  9. Ason
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    Ason New Member

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    [Apr 16, 2012]

    I didnt have any other problem, after i switch the maifold flap and did some output tests and reset the error codes everything worked as it should.
    Thanks for this thread!
  10. markj1974
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    markj1974 New Member

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    [Apr 19, 2012]
    Hi, I had the emission control system light (engine management light) come on about 2 months ago, had someone run a scan and it came up intake manifold flap !!!! Got a new one (£360) from cardiff audi, replaced and still on !!! noticed the fuse had blown (f8) replaced the fuse and still stayed on !!!! had another scan and was now coming up air mass sensor-signal too low !!! bought a neww maf (air mass meter ) from GSF and replaced myself and was hoping that the light would go off. No chance, had him out to run a scan again and showed no faults apart from gearbox shift solanoid, light went out, switched off the engine and restarted and light was still out, my mechanic left and started up the car and the bloody lights back on !!!!! WTF Any info, doing my ******* head in, cost me a fortune and the bloody light aint shifting !!
  11. Ason
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    Ason New Member

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    [Apr 20, 2012]

    When I
    replaced my manifold flap, I needed to make output test with VCDSa few timesbefore I could reset the fault codes.
  12. bigalaudi
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    bigalaudi New Member

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    [May 5, 2012]
    Hi, absolutley fantastic thread. My wifes A3 tdi had all the faults mentioned here , Engine warning light , F8 fuse blown , Econ light coming on . I read this post and went straight ahead and ordered a IMF from eurocarparts (£196.80) which arrived next day . My mechanic had scaned and the obvious codes reafirmed what you have already posted. After changing IMF engine warning light stayed on for a couple of miles then after switching off engine and back on again , NO MORE WARNING LIGHTS . A big thank you for an excellent diagnostics , well done .KAZ219
  13. Ionut Oancea
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    Ionut Oancea New Member

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    [Jul 21, 2012]
    Hi guys,
    I've had the same problem with the engine light, blew fuse and I decided to order a new IMF from ebay.de with 180 euro. (new one Pierburg). Today I've change it, but the check engine light is still on. Unfortunately I don't have a vag com cable to erase my errors. It s a way to erases it without a cable?
  14. Ionut Oancea
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    Ionut Oancea New Member

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    [Jul 21, 2012]
    Problem solved, after I unplug the battery for 2 hours and plug it again, start the engine the light goes off. Thanks a lot for this great tutorial.
  15. Flyingpoo
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    Flyingpoo In gear ready for the off!

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    [Jul 22, 2012]
    First ever post on asn, so be gentle!

    Having the same problem fault code (v157) 19559 motor for intake manifold flap malfunction p3103 intermittent. Occasionally getting orange emission control system light up. So just ordered part from europarts.com list price £196.80

    Reason for post is to make all members aware that europarts nearly always have discounts codes available, just goggle them and put them in the gift code/promo code box and it will recalculate new price. I just got 31% off the motor intake flap now £135.79 and purchased Castrol edge 5w/30 4 litres at £26.61. Promo code bigdeal31 but it finishes midnight tomorrow!!
    Fantastic write up! great thread and great forum.
  16. Reaps
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    Reaps New Member

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    [Jul 22, 2012]
    Hi all,

    To diagnose this myself, I have vcds lite and a cable, but I keep getting errors saying 'Controller not found'.

    I've been able to scan and get an EGR: insufficient flow detected and I've cleared that, but can't do much else.

    I can only scan the engine codes.

    Can someone link me to the correct cable via ebay that you already have?
    Also, are you using the paid version of VCDS or Lite?

    Nice day as it is today, I'm happy to spend the time to get rid of my errors!
    Cheers,
    Mark
  17. MDA
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    MDA sploorer

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    [Aug 2, 2012]
    hello
    just to say thanks for such a helpful thread
    im no longer an audi owner but a VW golf 140 tdi owner
    who had the same problems
    new IMF and it was all sorted mine had also blown the fuse cleared the codes and its run great since
  18. Delhibelly
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    Delhibelly New Member

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    [Sep 12, 2012]

    Hi,I see the same questions asked again & again so a bit of information for everyone:
    The ASV or IMF only closes momentarily when you switch off the engine to stop the shudder. Doesn't move at all during general motoring.When it jams-up usually blows the 10A fuse in the engine compartment throwing-up the fan control circuit fault.
    It is full of oil - do not drain it!
    You may drive a vehicle with this 'problem' without any issues, but be aware that if any further faults develop how will you know if your engine management light is already on?

    My question for 3dfx or anyone that has the answer - connection pinout...I need to know which pin is 12v, gnd & feedback circuit & can the feedback be tested off the vehicle? I have two of these that were replaced but still operate on the vehicle but throw a fault, so I assume the feedback circuit is faulty.
    Thanks in advance!:yes:
  19. stranex
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    stranex New Member

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    [Nov 15, 2012]
    Great thread!

    Got error code 19559 and was quoted over £400 for fitted part. After reading here I popped into ECP and got new IMF unit for £165 after an inital quote of £198...well happy!

    Before I attempt to change the old unit out there has been some talk here of new gaskets and seals presumably between the ECR and IMF and then for the pipe on the other end of the IMF? Can anybody please clarify if these are required as if so, have the relevant part numbers (I've a Golf V 2.0 GT)? The Pierburg unit has a rubber gasket on the EGR end and a circlip on the other but I'm keen to know if I need anything else?
  20. confusionhunter
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    confusionhunter Member

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    [Nov 17, 2012]
    Hi All, Thanks to all that’s contributed. I too am kicking myself as I managed to break my IMF by cleaning it!
    I was considering blocking the EGR for gain of MPG but after this experience I think I will leave well alone.

    Picking new one up from ECP for a bargain 136 plus vat with Trade discount. TPS were 296 plus VAT!!!!! That’s for the M part number too. I haven’t had the old one apart again but it sounds like it’s a broken teeth issue.Hi All, Thanks to all that’s contributed. I too am kicking myself as I managed to break my IMF by cleaning it!
    I was considering blocking the EGR for gain of MPG.

    Picking new one up from ECP for a bargain 136 plus vat with Trade discount. TPS were 296 plus VAT!!!!! That’s for the M part number too. I haven’t had the old one apart again but it sounds like it’s a broken teeth issue. Peice of swiss cheese cr@p!
  21. dawudbhai
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    dawudbhai Member

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    [Dec 23, 2012]
    Hi how did you remove the 3 screws on the imf? whats the best tool for the job?
    is there any point cleaning the egr valve as well and then replace the imf with a new one?
  22. Eliminateur
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    Eliminateur New Member

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    [Feb 14, 2013]
    Excellent EXCELLENT thread, and it has compelled me to register to reply...

    Since i need to take out the ASV AND the EGR valve(to clean/inspect, i suspect much gunk is involved) i have some questions:

    1) what's the step-by-step procedure to remove both pieces from the car?, does the EGR pipe bends out of the way or stays in place and just removing the screws is enough?
    2) i assume i'll need the EGR gasket and the seals/gaskets for the valves-body-to-manifold?, do anyone knows the part numbers?
    3)3dfx i'm interested in the part about the DC board problem, do you have schematics or photos?
    4) what's the pinout for the connector?, if there's control circuitry inside it could be useful to troubleshoot outside the car
    5) is a 5mm Allen wrench all that's needed?

    regards
  23. Eliminateur
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    Eliminateur New Member

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    [Feb 15, 2013]
    Also, the third screw -the one on the back- in my car it's a super-long screw that actually goes through both the IMF and EGR valves and then screws in the manifold, is this "normal" or have the previous owners modify it? (since i can find any elsawin that's actually usable for my car i have to ask)

    because with that long screw then the EGR valve is only held down by the TWO frontal screws only plus pressure from the ASV below it, doesn't seem like smart engineering(it is faster to undo tho' since only 5 screws for egr+asv) as it can leave a potential gap.

    can someone confirm this(and hopefully my previous post). point 5 is solved it's a 6mm allen and a 5mm one
  24. Geoneo
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    Geoneo New Member

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    [Mar 2, 2013]
    06 golf 2.0 gt tdi Hi all I'm new to this site but seem to be having the same problems as most on this post. Have the engine warning light on all the time and emmision garage showing for a few seconds at start up. I have cleaned the IMF and that seems ok not getting stuck and springing back open smoothly when I push it shut.

    Now most people are saying to replace the f8 fuse? In my car it says that's the radio and that's working fine lol

    also I've been looking on loads of sites to try and buy one but just can't seem to track one down !! Any help in that would be most greatful

    if I open the IMF right up to see if any of the teeth have snapped off is it possible to to fix the backing plate back on?

    Many thanks
    george
  25. Geoneo
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    Geoneo New Member

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    [Mar 3, 2013]
    ps just found from German auto spares £147 + postage
    chris.vincent3 likes this.
  26. benw123
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    benw123 Moderator

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    [Aug 26, 2013]
    Hi guys,

    Just wanted to pick up this excellent thread after a fair while, as I've been reading it a lot recently. My IMF failure was picked up way back in 2009, but it's only now I've got round to sorting it out!

    I bought my new Pierburg IMF from Murrays Direct for £177. Our 54-plate Sportback 2.0TDI had done 62k miles and unlike others, hadn't popped its fuse.

    Changing it was straightforward. The rear-most bolt, the longer one, was tough to reach but I found that moving the intake pipe first helped. So my procedure was as follows:

    • Remove battery cover and disconnect the battery negative terminal (10mm bolt) and push back and down out of the way
    • Remove plastic engine cover (just pull up quickly from the front and slide towards the front of the car)
    • Slacken the dipstick bolt (10mm bolt again). This helps with access later
    • Pull out the plastic U-shaped air intake from the front of the engine ccompartment
    • Using a 5mm Allen key, undo and remove the two bolts in the IMF (the two nearest the front of the car)
    • With a flat-head screwdriver, prise out the intake hose retaining clip and pull the hose downwards. Push it to the right of the IMF, so you can see more of the rearmost bolt
    • The tricky bit: this last bolt is a pain to get to. I managed it by putting each hand either side of the IMF and slowly slackening the bolt a bit at a time. When loose, you can use the invert the Allen key to twist out the bolt more quickly
    • After this point, the IMF comes free. Try not to drop anything - I managed not to!
    • Refitting is a reversal of removal
    After reconnecting the battery, we had a bit of worry as the engine management light, the ESP light and the yellow steering wheel light all came on. The car started fine though. Next day however, started it again and even before the car reached the end of our driveway in reverse, all three lights were out. Drove it around all day today and no more engine management light!

    Once again, thanks to everyone who contributed here. I was quoted £454 by Audi to remedy this, and for just £177, plus some oily mitts and about 90 minutes of my time, I've got the same result.
  27. IPA
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    IPA New Member

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    [Mar 14, 2014]
    Hi guys,

    Sorry to re-open this fantastic thread but I've been having the same problems on my 2.0 TDi.

    After getting the usual fault codes (19557/19559) and checking the fuses which were fine I took my IMF off and took the cover to the motor housing off. As is mentioned in previous posts on this thread it was full of oil but I don't know if this is normal ie are they manufactured this way or do they let oil seep in over a period of time.

    Anyway there didn't appear to be any broken teeth so I cleaned it out and gave the circuit board a good spray with contact cleaner. When I re-assembled it and put it back on the car I cleared the fault codes then started the engine and the light stayed off. The next morning however it came back on again so I ignored it as the car still drove fine although there was a slight whistle coming from the engine at low revs which sounded a bit like a vacuum leak somewhere but bit coincidental really. The light stayed on till the next day then when I started the car it went off and stayed off until now which is over a week.

    It's a bit odd really as I don't think it's fixed as the car shudders a bit when turning the engine off and it's become a bit of a pig to start from cold (have to turn it over 3 or 4 times before it fires) but once it's started it runs fine. This could be the flap stuck in either a closed or semi-closed position by my reckoning and not letting enough air into the system.

    A mechanic that I know seems to think that once you clean these units and put them back on the car they need re-setting using VCD but I'm not sure if this is true or not. What I can't understand is if the IMF is still faulty is why isn't the engine management light coming back on?

    Should the flap open & shut when you turn the ignition to the on or off position as I think I will get a mirror and take off the big black intercooler pipe then get someone to turn the ignition on/off a couple of times to see if it moves?

    Any thoughts anyone?
  28. 1inchwarrior
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    1inchwarrior New Member

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    [May 29, 2014]
    I have this problem with my car, EML has been coming on and off for the last year, it has gone months without coming on and then will come on for a few journeys and then off again for a few weeks.

    Just had it checked and it came back with the VCDS code 19559 for the Inlet Manifold Flap.

    Should I get this changed and if so where is the cheapest place to get the part from at the moment?
  29. IPA
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    IPA New Member

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    [May 29, 2014]
    First thing is to check fuse F8 in the fuse box in the engine bay as a faulty motor can sometimes trip this.

    I bought a 2nd hand flap from ebay in the end for £25. At that price it was worth a gamble and so far it has been fine.
  30. 1inchwarrior
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    1inchwarrior New Member

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    [Jul 15, 2014]
    I'm looking at doing this later, once it's delivered from eurocarparts (£170), does anyone know what seals or gaskets ill need to undertake the job as I don't want to rip it all apart and then find out.
    Thanks
  31. 1inchwarrior
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    1inchwarrior New Member

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    [Jul 16, 2014]
    All sorted now, what a difference it made too, can't even tell that I've turned the engine off now as opposed to prior to fitting it when it sounded like the engine had dropped out when you would turn it off.
    Fault codes gone and the glow plugs fault too...weird. Only time will tell if the all 4 glow plug fault will return.
  32. Richt2686
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    Richt2686 New Member

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    [Jul 26, 2014]
    Had this problem on my mk5 golf 2.0 tdi. Emissions light came on so got it checked out.
    After reading up here and other places the symptoms matched mine exactly- big engine judder when switching off, neither of the fans working on the radiators and a blown fuse 10A fuse. Bought a new throttle body from Euro carparts for just over £160 (good timing for an online offer) and fitted it yesterday afternoon. A doddle to change except for the bolt on the left which is awkward to get too. The part I bought (pierburg) is the same brand as the one I removed which is factory fitted. Only difference is the factory fitted has a VW stamp aswell as the pierburg stamp. VW wanted 360 + vat 😮. Thanks to everyone for their contributions, really helped. Car running perfectly now 😊

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