Help - P3103 V157 - Motor Intake Manifold Flap - EGR Valve...How do i solve?

Hi

I just pick up my car from mechanic. Passat 2.0 tdi 140 bhp. Problem was Manifold Flap V157 no signal ( 19558 ). He replaced EGR valve, clean the throttle, deleted engine and emission lights and everything was fine. I got in to the car turn engine on and off and the light is still on:banghead: Mechanic is going to check everything again on Monday any idea what the problem is ?

thanks
 
just had my throttle body replaced (£211 inc VAT from eurocarparts). Will change the F8 fuse and have codes cleared later on and will post my findings.
 
Hi I have the same problem V157 engine light and emission is on. Mechanic replace EGR valve, clean throttle and delete faults, everything was fine. After 5 minutes light is back on. I am going to visit mechanic for further investigation but I don't want him to rip me off. Any idea what is the problem. Thank you
 
egr valve and intake manifold flap are 2 seperate items bolted together , if its the intake flap then its probably broke and blown the fuse under the bonnet ,this also brings up a fan warning as well in vagcom ,best thing to do is remove boost pipe and see if flap is shut with engine off ,dont poke your fingers in pipe whilst someone turns ignition on or off ,could trap ur fingers ,if flap doesnt shut then intake valve is ********
 
try replacing the fuse :)

Been on a couple runs since this morning, ignition has been switched off and on about 3 times and so far, the engine light hasn't appeared so that's a result!!

Still experiencing lack of power though and limp mode....time to try some innotec turbo cleaner now!
 
Hi
Just pick up my car from mechanic, he replaced egr but engine light is still on. I check F8 fuse there wasn't any. I put one back in and it hasn't gone but aircon doesn't work now. He told me to see electrician cos he thinks it's cables faults. Any idea what the problem is and what should I do now ?
 
Hi guys just got my car from my local VW who i think are useless. My EM light came on about three weeks ago so i booked it in VW for Diagnostics and the result was that i need to replace the sensor on the manifold so four days later paid £350 sterling. After three days my EML came back on so i took it back to VW. They rang me after two days and said they have done a software update and all OK. Picked my car within an hour the light came on again so back to the Garage> They kept the car for a week and i got a phone call saying that all it is was the vacuum valve and they will do it for free. Next day got a phone call stating that they visiually saw that the Intake Manifold needs replacing as its jamed and when i asked how much i was quoted £600 i had to go ahead with it as i thought my engine is in bits anyway and then argue my case after. Picked up the car Yesterday With a new inlet manifold and a big argument with VW as my argument was that the first Payment i gave them was for a non faulty part that they replaced. I was told that i was only charged for one hour labour instead of 12 which would have total to £1200 plus parts. After alot of taking i ended up paying £430 which is not bad but i think that dealers are not as good machanics for the money they charge.............. One week later
Hi, After all the money i spend and time wasted my EMI light came back on today and i`m not sure were to turn as i dont trust My local VW dealer but i guess i have to return the car to them to see what they come up with this time.Any help will be apprieciated.
Thank You
 
...after searchin all over for advice, it seems you guys have nailed it !!! i have an 04 reg tdi sport dsg with all above symptoms - fuse f8 blowing,fans inop(overheats in heavy traffic),air con intermittant plus emmissions light on...
i thought i had 4 seperate problems to sort out but it appears that the B&$^&£D flap motor may sort them all out?? will follow the advice,replace the flap motor n clean the Egr valve as suggested, fingers Xed eh? THANKYOU 2 ALL WHO HAVE POSTED ABOVE ;0)
 
Hi all...

I'm a newbie to this site, and after a couple of weeks of trying to get the bottle up to tackle this on my 2.0TDi B7, I eventually tachled it yesterday... but there's a problem!!!

I removed the IMF and it wasn't as bad as I feared, so I cleaned it up and it came up really well. I can't see any of the teeth being broken, and when I push it with my finger it closes and springs back without any problems. Put it back on the car and had the wife hit the gas while I checked if the flap moved...and nothing. Reconnected the hose, reset the EML with my mates MaxiScan and took her out for a run (the car not the wife). Light stayed off, but this morning I started her up and the EML was back on.

I've read this post back to front and almost everyone says check the F8 fuse. Again, 2 issues. 1: I have no other problems like AC or anything as suggested, and 2: where the hell is the F8 fuse in a B7? Ive been in and around the battery and found the pollen filter and Engine Management Unit. I cannot find this fuse box and it's driving me nuts. CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME???

One last question... my part number is 03G 128 063 and has V120 tagged on to the end. Is the V120 part of the part No and is it important to match if I need a new part and can anyone suggest somewhere to buy apart from the stealer?


Many, many thanks in anticipation and for a fantastic thread.
 
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I'm new to this forum and would like to thank all those who have contributed to this thread with advise and photo's.

My son lives in London (250 miles away) and has owned a 2004 A3 2.0 TDi Sport for 3 years, a few months ago he rang me to say he was having a few problems.

After searching the net I came across audi-sport.net and this thread, all his symptons pointed to the IMF failing, so when he came home for a few days I bought a Autel VAG405 scanner and sure enough it came back with the fault code already posted , 19558, 19557 and 17075.

He had already spoken to a dealer in London and they had quoted him between £450 - 500, so I nipped down nto my local EuroCar Parts £211 inc VAT for the modified version (ending M) and a hour later I had replaced it and cleared the fault codes, replaced F8 and all lights out and running sweet.

Thanks again to all those involved for their help.

Alan
 
Just thought I'd add a little bit to this ongoing thread!!

I have a 2.0 td pd140 Touran which sprang a p0401 egr insufficient flow error a couple of weeks back. I took the egr valve and IMF off and gave them both a good clean, reset the dtc's and all was ok for a day or so when the egr fault came back so I bit the bullet, bought a new egr valve and stuck it on cleared the codes and all ok :) 100 miles later, emissions warning back on and after a scan shows a v157 flap motor fault :( took the big pipe off the bottom without the engine/ignition on and the flap is open, as it was when i originally took it all off, and i cannot easily move the butterfly flap. Having read some info from the pierburg site it would appear that they do not recommend any attempt to clean the flap motor, in fact they say that you WILL damage it if you do so! So it appears that I may have inadvertently killed my v157 by giving it a clean!!!

Have ordered the latest version from Euro car parts, 211 + vat on their site, 153 + vat from my local branch! Don't accept their first price (189 + vat) give them the sharp intake of breath treatment and they'll do you a better price ;)

will post up if this sorts it out but thanks to all who have posted on this thread in the last couple of years!!!

:)
 
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Hi all, first off many thanks to all who've contributed to this thread over the years! You've all been invaluable to those of us who've fixed the problem!

I've got the v157 fault on my '06 A3 2.0TDI Quattro and the only problem i've experienced is the engine management light coming on... Checked in the manual and it says about the fuel filter and running at 50+kph for 15 mins (which i tried several times). I took it to my local garage (who i trust) who fitted a fuel filter, yet he didn't think this was the problem so plugged it into his machine to give him the v157 fault. He showed me the part in his parts manual (number 22) and it was an 'Air Intake Actuator', he advised me to visit Audi for a second opinion. After a £70 charge just for plugging it in their machine (Stealers!) they reported the same, along with a fault on the number 3 glow plug. They quoted me £445.12 for the IMF part (and £133.34 for the glow plug) so that is when i began looking online and found this thread!

I have a family friend who owns his own garage, yet worked and was trained by Audi for many years, he's quoted me £368.84 for the official Audi part (should be trade...) and will fit it for me free of charge. Quite a difference to the £211 on ECP, but he'll give me 2 years warranty. He also says he's had problems with electrical parts from ECP so doesn't use them. I'm not mechanical in the slightest (more electrical...) so he'll be getting my money, but mostly for the warranty and peace of mind (i wouldn't have if i fitted the part myself!) Will update after next weekend (when i should all be sorted!) :D

Special thanks to Rigsby for clearing up my initial questions and linking me to this thread. He fitted his son's several months ago and it is still going strong! :)
 
My emissions light came on the other day, so did a quick scan and got the following 2 errors:

17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal

As a first step I changed the F8 fuse and the car seems much smoother, for about 5 mins, then light back on.

Secondly I checked and thoroughly cleaned the IMF - it was filthy and looked well overdue a good clean! I pushed the flap in and out about 100 times and it was absolutely spot on. Put everything back in place, replaced the fuse again and went for a short drive. 10 mins later, light back on!!

Patience running out by this point I nipped into europarts and purchased a new IMF (£217 for a part that looked like it should be no more than a tenner!). Got the new one on and car has been 100% since.

Not quite sure what was wrong with the original IMF. Wonder if there had been something up with it for a while as the car is so smooth now when I turn the ignition off. I had kind of become accustomed to the slight shudder to the point where I had considered it normal :laugh:

Anyway, thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It was very helpful to read a few other experiences before shelling out on the rather extortionately priced new IMF!!
 
17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal

Not quite sure what was wrong with the original IMF.[/FONT]


Done 2 of these now, each time I have prised the end cap off (be careful as it's full of oil)to find the same fault.

There is a small cog that turns a large quadrant cog, on both IMF units some of the teeth had broken the larger cog, preventing the flap from closing.

I think they have modified the newer versions so it shouldn't happen again.
 
Had an IMF fitted over the weekend for £268.91 (alleged Audi trade price) and so far so good (done around 200 miles since).

Still have a fault registered on my no.3 glow plug but have no problems starting so i'm letting it stay for now as engine management light hasn't returned. Will be doing a long drive the next 7 days (around 500 miles) which should be a nice test :)
 
Glad you got it sorted Roady, I'm sure it won't bother you again.

BTW. The Euro Car Parts one is made by Pierburg, same as the Audi OEM part, mine even had the Audi Part No 038-128-063-M on it.

My lad's A3 still has a glow plug fault showing after a scan, not sure if it's no 2 or 3, no lights showing, still starts fine so that's one for another day.

Alan
 
Done 2 of these now, each time I have prised the end cap off (be careful as it's full of oil)to find the same fault.

There is a small cog that turns a large quadrant cog, on both IMF units some of the teeth had broken the larger cog, preventing the flap from closing.QUOTE]

There appeared to be nothing wrong with closing mechanism which is what puzzled me a little, but seems it must have been faulty so just pleased to get it sorted. Might do a biopsy when I have a few mins :laugh:
 
I am a bit stumped by the design of the new IMF. The new part appears to be missing the ridge that helps form the air tight seal with the inlet pipe. If you compare the pictures of 'old' and 'new' in this thread (post 53 and 86) you will see what I mean.

Have obviously changed the seal on the inlet pipe but it simply is not air tight. The inlet pipe also pulls out about 1.5mm which is never going to be good enough to form a air tight seal under pressure.

Been back to europarts who say they will offer a refund if I want, but they can not understand it either. They checked their stock and all look the same.

Audi parts department said they did not keep the part in stock as it is too expensive (perhaps he meant their price is so expensive that no one buys it from them!) but they would order one in for me to take a look if I wanted. They too could not understand how it could be made completely airtight without this ridge.

I am interested to hear other people's experiences as it looks like people have fitted this new IMF without the ridge. This just seems like a very poor design change and I have no idea how to stop the air leak with this part.
 
so I'd been driving around for the last 12 months with the EML on. MPG and power was fine however there was a pretty bad engine judder and overrun on shut down. So after many hours of research in this forum, I decided to take the plunge. Armed with the following, I set to work;

- 281 OBD-2 CAN-BUS code scanner (£25 amazon)
- Can of carb cleaner (£3.50 halfords)
- EGR valve gasket (£2 Audi)
- Brand new IMF (pierburg unit), £197 Murray's Direct (excellent service, thoroughly recommended)

Initial VAG COM scan showed: 19559/P3103 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157), Malfunction

1. Checked all fuses, nothing blown.
2. Disconnected battery
3. Removed both IMF and EGR valve. It was made easier by removing the air intake pipes first. A small allen key is required here and a bit of patience! Took about 10 minutes in total.
4. EGR valve had a 5mm coating of oil and soot. Out with the carb cleaner and gave it a thorougher clean. Approx 30 minutes.
5. The butterfly flap in the IMF was in the open position and it had no spring return. After further inspection (had to prise the cover off, be careful here as I got a face full of oil when the spring flew out!!) it was clear why I had the problem. Two of the plastic teeth had broken off one of the gear cogs resulting in a mechanism that jammed at certain points. Thrown straight in the bin.
6. Reassembled both the clean EGR and new IMF. This took about 30 minutes as I dropped a few of the bolts down in the depths of the engine compartment and had to retrieve them.
7. Reconnected battery.
8. Ignition on, car fired-up much quicker and cleaner than before and more importantly, no EML on the dash!

So just over 1 hour in total, this can be reduced though If you don't drop any of the bolts!

Drove around for about 30 minutes and I noticed the car had a much crisper throttle response and the EML remained off. When turning the ignition off, the engine now shuts down instantly with no overrun or judder.

I'm pretty happy with the outcome of this, I've ended up saving nearly £200 by going the DIY route. Sorry if some of the info above has been repeated from other posts, I just thought I'd share my experience. Thanks to all the other forum members who carried this out and the information they provided.
 
This (long) thread is great and helped me diagnose an IMF failure quickly. This appeared as a lound buzzing noise coming from the intake manifold area as soon as ignition was switched on and continued for 10-15 seconds after switch off. Taking off and stripping down found the unit full of oil and the end 2 teeth missing on the cam, usual story.... So new unit from Murrays direct delivered on New years Eve for £199.

I have fitted this and all appears OK but the new unit emits a high frequency whine which is most noticeable after engine switch off for the same 10-15 second period, finishing with the clunk of the flap re-opening. Is this normal? Never heard it before but then again I wasn't listening. Is this just a bolt in piece or is there some set up that needs to be done?

car is 2.0Tdi Sport (140)
 
Great post cheers, got the V157 too on my Golf GT TDI 140, took the motor out and the exact same tooth has broken on mine, here's the photo:

P1050108.jpg

P1050108.JPG
P1050108.JPG

glossopwhite
glossopwhite
What a coincidence! Getting the replacement for 185 quid from europarts after a 20% discount.


Thanks for the help from everyone in this thread for helping me diagnose this same problem for me. Thought I'd take a few pics for anybody else that gets this problem and needs pointing in the right direction.

The error fault codes from vagcom:

19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal
19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
This is the Inlet Manifold Flap

img0290x.jpg
 
hiya do i need to replace the egr valve or the intake manifold flap or both?
 
if you read the whole thread they all saying that the problem occured in manifold flap, you need to change as what's in the above picture
 
Hi i have been reading through this a few times and am now looking into getting an imf it comes up with 19559 motor for intake flap p3103 if i put the light off it comes back on again.this has been going on for near a year now.
I dont get any other faults i dont pop fuses i dont lose power the only problem it is a bit shuddery when starting or shutting off the engine.
I decided last night to check the flap it moved back and fore ok did not seem to stick,i noticed in a post that it should be shut when the engine is off mine is open.
Do you think it will be the imf and if so where is cheapest now?
part no.038 128 063 g
thank you
 
Thanks for the reply but i would rather not give them the money. I can get it from euro part for £226.80 was hoping to find it cheaper.
 
euro car parts was cheap when i got mine trade cant remember price
 
Hi again i found it at murray's direct for under two hundred.since i cleaned it yesterday it still aint came on been out a few times so fingers crossed but i guess it will be back.i will wait and see what happens with it.
thanks
 
Hello!
Nice thread :)

I have the same problem with the valve. I have disconnected it from the plug (so the F8 fuse doesn't get blown) and replaced the fuse. As far as I understood - there wouldn't be any problems if I continue to drive that way until I replace it? The spring that is inside keeps it always wide open... The electric circuit looks quite simple so I will try to fix it before buying a new one...
 
I've just changed the inlet manifold flap and the EGR valve on my 2006 62k miles BKD engine.

The ECU light was on and the engine was also rougher when switched off too. The 10amp fuse was also blown.

So I just decided to replace both parts. By the time I'd paid a professional to investigate the problem the labour cost (and hassle) would pay for the EGR valve anyway. All changed now and both original parts were rather gunged up. I change the fuse and after a couple of start ups the ECU light went off.

The original Inlet manifold flap was open, would open and shut under spring tension, could also hear the gears turning. I opened up the box of gears and it was full of oil. The gears within looked fine. So is all this oil supposed to be in there? Will it do all the circuit boards any harm?

Anyway, £337 later it's fixed but I can't see where the obvious problem was other than the fuse. Fuses don't blow for no reason though.
 
I've just changed the inlet manifold flap and the EGR valve on my 2006 62k miles BKD engine.

The ECU light was on and the engine was also rougher when switched off too. The 10amp fuse was also blown.

So I just decided to replace both parts. By the time I'd paid a professional to investigate the problem the labour cost (and hassle) would pay for the EGR valve anyway. All changed now and both original parts were rather gunged up. I change the fuse and after a couple of start ups the ECU light went off.

The original Inlet manifold flap was open, would open and shut under spring tension, could also hear the gears turning. I opened up the box of gears and it was full of oil. The gears within looked fine. So is all this oil supposed to be in there? Will it do all the circuit boards any harm?

Anyway, £337 later it's fixed but I can't see where the obvious problem was other than the fuse. Fuses don't blow for no reason though.


I have two failed flaps and the problem in both of them is the DC motor and two of the 4 MOSFET transistors. I already replaced the transistors and the circuit runs fine. Now I am looking for a replacement DC motor.
 
Does anybody think drilling a little hole in the cover will allow excess oil to drain out?
 
Hi All,

Im hoping someone can help, My A3 2.0tdi's ecs light came on last week, i took it to the garage, the vag check reported EGR valve malfunctioning - i hadn't really noticed any difference in the drive at all apart from a shudder on engine turn off, so I had it replaced, at the same time the mechanic mentioned that the throttle body was clogged up pretty much beyond cleaning and that he would try to steep it for me but it would need replacing but i didnt have to have it done there and then just sooner rather than later. I picked the car up and as i drove off straight away the ecs light came back on he vag checked it again and got
19559 p3103 motor for intake flap - v157 faulty

he said thats the throttle body that needs placed, but i could drive it for the time being until i notice the car having a lack of power, this week ive noticed my mpg going right down, and the turbo whines louder than normal under acceleration, tonight it went into limp mode on the motorway going up and incline, shut the engine off turned it back on and went on my way again with it reset, have been looking at the forums and around the net all night, im basically asking for advice/sanity check as ive started reading that it could be the turbo thats gone/going and im starting to feel a little ill! im hoping that its just the engine not getting enough air and that replacing the throttle body will make it all go away, does this seem reasonable or should i be looking to sell a kidney?
Cheers
 
Hi
Ive got the same problem with my mk5 golf 2.0L tdi.
Ive been told its the throttle valve gone because my aircon has packed up too,been told to replace valve & put new fuse in for aircon & all shpuld be good.
Did you sort your car out & how?
Cheers
 
Hi there people,

I recently have come across this same problem but mine is a little different to others that i have read about.
I have the fault codes:
19558 - motor for intake manifold flap (v157) No signal
17075 - Fan 1 control circuit short to GND
These are the only 2 codes that come up for me where as other people get 3 codes.
Also mine does blow F8 like most people which at 1st i changed the fuse and it blew again so i tried a 15amp and that blew, I have now put in a 25amp fuse and that has not blown and the light has gone off.
This has confused me as there must be something up to keep blowing the fuse but i have no performance problem what so ever and the car turns off fine. I know alot of the forums say the same thing about replacing the IMF and EGR but my cars performance is fine.
I aint no car mechanic but any help/advice is much appreciated
 
You must remove the 25 amp fuse IMMEDIATELY.

The fuse is designed to protect the wiring of the circuit it is connected to and a bigger fuse will allow the wiring to heat up in a fault situation and possibly catch fire.

Someone will come along with help for the problem but please remove that fuse or the car could catch fire.
 
I have removed that fuse, as when i got to work many people warned me off this, thing is the fuse did not get hot so i thought it would be ok. The other strange thing is that since i put that 25 amp fuse in the engine management light went off. so I just tried a 10 back in there and it hasnt blown.
so far..................
 
It's the wiring that's at risk not the fuse.

By putting a 10 amp fuse in you are still allowing the wiring to accept twice the current it is designed for. I strongly suggest you replace with a 5 amp fuse or nothing at all until the problem is sorted.

The intake manifold flap motor is likely to have blown due to the gearing inside being clogged up. Needs to be taken apart and cleaned or replaced.

The fan control circuit may be a stuck fan blade which is blowing the fuse or it could be the temperature sensor that has gone. As far as I know most people have to replace both fans to rectify the problem.

Take that 10 amp fuse out !!!!!!!!!
 
I cant be allowing twice the current as there was a 10 amp in there in the 1st place, if it blows this 10amp then i am gonna buy another IMF and by what is said on these forums i should replace the EGR vavle aswel.

I once had a problem similar before about 2 years ago resultiong in the fans coming on when they felt like it and in the build up to that a garage made me change:

Mass airflow sensor
temperature sensor
coolant temp sensor

and none of these fixed the problem which ended up me needed to buy a whole new motor for the fans

I dont these problems relate or at least i hope not