Aug 26, 2009
where abouts are you?
Yeah, they've definitely been changed, I have the invoice with all the part numbers listed.
I know the VVT's control the cams, but I'm trying to understand the control mechanism for the VVT's themselves.
One thing I did notice last night, my mates 3.2 has 25k miles on the clock and it will hold steady revs at any speed, but it does occasionally sound to "miss". Maybe it's developing the fault. His figures do occasionally spike but nowhere near mine.
As for a meet, I'm up for that if it'll help.
I just did it parked Paddy, I know it's probably better to do an under load run, but as the fault is still there when stationary it was easier to do.
A few more thoughts from me....
when we started this thread i had this problem but it was hardly noticeable. Now it is so bad i booked it in to Audi at my expense today. Either they fix it or i will break it or sell it as a non runner because i cant live with an unreliable car. This is the 2ND Xmas in a row i doubt i will get home to Norfolk because of this bloody car....Gearbox last year.
The problem has developed over less than 2K miles from insignificant to barely running on 6 at 2.5k today.
Interesting that the needle jumps about so wildly. If the problem was an air leak or a sensor i doubt it would do that. Pretty sure the rev counter counts sparks so it must be missing sparks. Its to much of a sharp jump on the needle to be anything else. Put it this way, if it was just cam timing i dont see why the rev counter would jump like that because it would still be sparking ;-)....
I was just curious because i have never checked blocks and i wondered how you did it. I got the drift from Vagcom site but while it talks you through the stages it didn't actually say if the drove or just ran the car....cheers anyway
Bloody hell Paddy...."Break the car!"...........I wouldn't say the problem with mine is THAT bad, in fact it's hardly noticeable when driving tbh, but I like things to be right.
I sincerely hope we do get to the bottom of this though after 6 pages.
I have also put the logs that I did into a word document as I don't know how to post them up, so if any of you want to see them, PM me your email and I'll send it.
When I had my LCR a few years ago, I did airflow logs, but in that instance I used 3rd gear and a runway
Yea...Vagcom say anything that involves airflow needs zero to red line in 3rd minimum......Officer
I'm quite pleased with my spark theory and the rev counter, the more i think about it the more it makes sense. Motorbike rev counters are spark driven, you could take the piston out of one cylinder and it wouldn't make the needle jump..but interrupt the low/high tension side of the ignition and it will jump in fact i know my Yam used the rev counter as a fault diagnostic indicator
Butting back in here again. had all my sensors changed, espicially the cam shaft sensors. Same issue, after looking assume you guys are saying the chain changing hasnt helped????.Been looking at S3 for replacement. But really miss the noise id sooner sort the problem. Im in Newcastle (will drive up to 100 miles) if anyone wants a comparision (welcome to drive mine no problem) before I spend any more ££££ on repairs that do nothing. VAGCOM-No errors. Not as tech. advanced as you blokes. ha Cheers!!!
(idle perfect no fluctuation, slight noise after long run)
I'm Harrogate area.....
I am with you there paddy. Feels very ignition orientated to me too.
The weird thing is, my car has been driving really well the last couple of days, and I cant even notice the fault under normal conditions anymore. The only time its apparent is when i am in D mode and i am drive under 20mph, it feels a little jerky.
Was thinking on the way to work today......
Mk4 R32's had this 2k issue and we are same running gear and theres was map related......
i had those thoughts straight away, so i phoned audi and they said 'sorry there are no reflashes for this car'
plus Pete on here has had a remap and that didnt solve the problem.
Have the map people changed the right bit tho. or followed the faulty bit of code over.....
that i have no idea. I suppose only a full custom map would sort that. but if that was the case then the problem should have been there from day 1
It's just odd that the R32 had the exact issues and VW found a solution by changing the map...
i know, they were my initial thoughts too.
I think that's where it's at...
Wonder if the map off an r32 can be dumped onto an a3..
Just to re-cap.
How bad is the blip? When mine has done it, it has never been bad. Like question myself wether it actually happened or wether it was just me....
well, one thing i havent tried, and i am in a position to do so, I have another a3 3.2 ecu, what are the odds of having 2 faulty ones?
I had it detranspondered, as i was going to use it in my old corrado and never got round to it. Might try that at the weekend.
Anyone removed the scuttle panel before?
Hi Guys Sorry to butt into your thread but just a quick thought from me regarding your voltage query.
When you have been taking readings have you had the Neg of the tester on the battery terminal or on the engine casing? I too used to have problems with a yamaha of the wife's years ago after the frame was plastic coated which threw up all kinds of problems!
I found after weeks of testing that certain parts had no earth path at all and other areas of the frame were ok, try and take your readings from the exact area of the engine or sensor using the electrical path that the item will use itself you may have a bad engine earth strap! so spurious voltage to differant areas of the engine!
The charging voltage should have risen to its max by about 1800/ 2000RPM and should be approx 14.5vdc but dont use the battery terminals to prove this use the engine block as the neg in the area of the suspect sensor and then log your readings you may actualy be on the right path or at least be able to genuinly disprove that the voltage drop has any significance.
Any way it has been quite interesting reading so far so keep us informed as you find a solution.
No never removed the scuttle Coxy. Would be interested in how it's done as I need to do the top mounts on mine.....
might have a crack at the weekend. I am dropping the oil out.
One thing i havent mentioned, that i am trying is a product called Auto-RX in my oil. its designed to clean engines over time, not like a standard engine flush. It didnt want to mention it because i was dubious about it, but it seems to be certainly lifting something from the engine, the oil is now black. if you remember the pictures, my engine was caked it varnish and a bit crud, and this stuff has some good claims and testimonials about making your engine run better, I thought it would be worth a punt.
I am now entering the 'rinse' phase, for another 2000 miles, will see if it affects the engine performance and our problem.
I have to admit the problem appears to be quite reduced on my engine now. If it just goes away in the next 2000 miles then i can only assume its because of a cleaner engine inside.
Playing devils advocate on that one you might be dislodging gunk to other areas hehe Sure it will end up in the filter tho!
I've had the scuttle out before. You remove the windscreen wipers, the rubber seal across the bulkhead and then it will pull out towards the front of the car, but it is normally tight to pull out if its been in place a while.
I could do with new top mounts as well when I put my H&R's on. Is it a dealer part or can they be bought elsewhere.
Keep us posted coxylaad, As I'm considering changing the oil pump.
@ Gaz m
We've not actually used testers for the voltage. All the readings have been taken from VagCom.
Ju, Top mounts I got off ebay but they are Audi bits. They are only £50 or so for the pair tho.
Are you getting clonking as well Ju (top mounts I mean)? Or is it just while it's in bits?
OK cheers Jonathan. It'll be after Christmas now as the car is going into Audi again on Monday. Not for this fault but for a bodywork warranty claim.
No it's not clonking, the drivers side grinds sometimes so I thought I would change them while it's stripped.
When i had mine mapped last week the guy said the map starts at 2k rpm....mine is missing up to 3k now. still think what ever is sending the pulse to the rev counter is the key here.
Must be some sort of map that goes from Tickover to 2001rpm hey
well as i said before the advance curve starts at 2k so as the map is basically remaping the advance curve.
I have been looking at some US sites and they seem to have a lot of problems with carbon/coke on the 3.2 fouling the injectors but then they have **** fuel..
Mine does seem to run sweeter on v-power........
couple tanks of redex? I have already ran a tank of the stuff ages ago, and it made zero difference.
re the flush, its not that type of flush, it disolves the crud very slowly, thats why it stays in your engine for 1500 miles, unlike your traditional flushes which are aggressive solvent based stuff. its been in my engine for 1500 miles and its not had any adverse affects, apart from turning my oil black!
Hi Guys you should at least disprove the earth strap neg voltage theory as you will be surprised what it can mess up! Try and lend a tester and just test to count it out.
Funny but if there was a bad earth would that not mess up the pulse count signal to the rev counter!
Just for the record I work on Helicopters as an electrical engineer so I might just have a small idea of what I am talking about, but still could be totaly wrong on this problem but would expect methodical diagnostics to prove or disprove the problem before changing any more expensive parts!
Keep searching. RUNS LIKE A DREAM
I will test shortly, I work with a load of electricians, so i can pinch all there gear.
i dont think the pulse signal is being disrupted, its reading fine, its just the engine thats going loopy!
Do you really think the engine rpm is jumping and the needle movement is true ?? My engine coughs and pops in the pipe but apart from sounding like its on 5cyl i dont think the rpm is jumping at all. I can hold a steady exhaust not but the rev counter is jumping +/-500rpm..How can i find out where it gets its pulse from ?? its not in the manual
It pee's me off that this is such an obvious problem and yet Audi are leaving it to customers to do the R&D.
Would it not be in a wiring diagram for the car?
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