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HELP!! My Split Rims Are Leaking Air, New Seals Needed! PICS!

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by AudiS3Quattro, Jan 5, 2011.

  1. AudiS3Quattro
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    AudiS3Quattro Member

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    Hi,

    I wonder if anyone has had this problem before, I have 19'' daytona rail split rims, after a long process of elimination I have finally found air leaking from the seal on my split rim, I have just taken the tyre off, but I haven't split the rims as of yet. I am after peoples opinions on the best thing to do.

    1.Should I split the rims, track down a new seal, fit it and re-install? (If any one knows where I can get a seal from I would much appreciate it)

    2.Should I split the rim, seal it with silicone, then rebuild?

    3.Should I just tighten the bolts up on the wheel and try to seal the gaps that way.

    I am also looking for information or torque setting and if anyone has any information on the correct torques socket to remove the bolts, so far I have tried using a 3/4'' e8 which was to big, and a 3/4''e6 which was too small, and Halfords didn't seem to have a 3/4'' e7.

    Sorry Pics Ain't Working
    #1
  2. S3 Paul
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    S3 Paul Active Member

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    I rebuild and reworked a set of wheels that sound very much like these...
    The picture links dont work though... If i can see them i can probably help.
    Fix the links matie...
    #2
  3. AudiS3Quattro
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    AudiS3Quattro Member

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    #3
  4. AudiS3Quattro
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    AudiS3Quattro Member

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    I have added some pics, hopefully they work, thanks for the help!
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  5. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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  6. AudiS3Quattro
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    sounds good, do u know what socket i need to take the rim apart and also what value to torque them back up to?
    #6
  7. sulaiman
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    sulaiman Member

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    Should be able to use a normal 8mm 12 point socket, try a 8mm spanner to see if it fits first then go buy the socket.

    They need splitting, resealing and rebuilding. Clean all the previous silicone off both the lip and the centre using either sandpaper, wire wheel or paint remover wheel: [​IMG]

    Use Loctite RTV sealant to seal. You only need a thin bead in the correct place for the wheels to seal, should torque to 22/24 Ft/Lds and remove the valve and seal that with the above sealant too if they are metal valves for peace of mind.

    Have you just bought your s3? I saw a 03 noggy with these wheels for sale on pistonheads, looked top!
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  8. S3 Paul
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    S3 Paul Active Member

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    Ha,
    I remember those wheels !
    Yes, these are the same kind of wheels i worked on for a friend,
    He decided to have his powder coated black,
    Be careful with the bolts, they are a right pain if they get over tightened, I had to repair about 30 of the threads as once over tightened they pull the thread and become well and truely stuck !
    Ive just asked him what tool it was for the bolts as he suplied this to me, The bolts themselves had M7 threads, When rebuilding i used silicone sealer as new gaskets were not available, They have been on the car for over a year now and havent lost any air at all. Make sure they are clean and aply the silicone evenly, aply slightly too much towards the inside as you can then use a wet finger to smooth the extra around the inside to make a nice need seal. We left them for a couple of days before having the tyres fitted ,
    Tighten the bolts slowly and work them down evenly as if you was trying to keep them balanced ( if that makes sence)
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  9. AudiS3Quattro
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    yer that makes sense Thanks

    I came across this on edition38 website : Split Rim Torque Settings, Tools Required. - Edition 38 Forums

    could you confirm that the torque setting is: 22/24 Ft/Lds

    if you could let me konw which tool you used I would be soooo greatful, as about 3 hours ago I thought it was a new wheel job!

    did you apply the silicon then start bolting it together straight away?

    thanks again for your help, its great!
    #9
  10. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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    I would leave it to cure for a bit
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  11. AudiS3Quattro
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    AWESOME! thanks matey thats great, exactly what i needed to know has been coverd by you two in a matter of mins!

    I used to have a 01 noggy s3 a few years ago but sold it, and ever since i wanted it back, your right it was on pistonheads during the christmas break, i wanted to snap it up asap, I will get some pics up when the rains stops and i get a chance to clean it up properly!

    thanks again!
    #11
  12. vanilla_ice
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    vanilla_ice Member

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    Do the two mating surfaces of split rims need to be bare metal? I'm thinking of having my wheels powder coated and would like to know if the mating surfaces should not be coated.
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  13. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid

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    I would leave them bare metal, as powder coating has a tendency to be uneven, plus when refurbishing in the future it will be a messy job if bits chip off
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  14. sulaiman
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    This is true but don't you have BBS rs2's vanilla? They are two piece but the centres pop out meaning the barrel stays intact on both beads so they don't need resealing, just bolting back up.

    Like this:
    [​IMG]
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  15. vanilla_ice
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    Hi sulaiman. Yes for my RS2's. Is there not a bead/sealant between the two pieces? Either way is it best to be metal on metal or is paint on paint/powder on powder OK?
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  16. sulaiman
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    I wouldn't leave them bare metal as they will start corroding and could bond together over time. Paint on paint/powder on powder is fine.

    Just let the guy who's doing your wheels know of the tolerances, but provided they are blasted and then powder coated they should be fine. You just need to use thread lock on the bolts when building them back up, and cover the threads on the barrel up when painting/powder coating.

    :)
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  17. vanilla_ice
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    Thanks again. All points taken on board.

    So there's no bonding/beading/sealant between the centre and barrel?

    Others have said there is with RSII's. I guess I'll find out when I split them. :)
    #17

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